Hi all, I've asked a similar question before, but after doing some trouble shooting, I still have an issue I'm trying to solve for. I'm converting a Ford Transit 250 into a camper and just finished setting up my electric system last week.
BMV 712 Smart Battery Monitor
MPPT 100v 30A Solar Charge Controller
(3) 100Ah LiFePO4 Battle Born batteries
Giandel 2200W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
Sterling 60A B2B Charger
Progressive Dynamics 60A 12v LiFEPO4 Battery Converter/Charger
What I’m trying to solve for is that when I turn my inverter on, it beeps continuously and says "Lo", indicating low voltage protection, and then shuts off.
I have taken apart the inverter and checked that the fuses are in good shape. (There are 4 30A fuses and they are all good).
I have charged up my battery bank to full, using my PD Converter, and synchronized the SOC to 100% on my BMV 712, as well as input the correct battery monitor settings in the Victron app.
It was previously recommended to me that maybe my main 300A fuse was blown, or that there was a short somewhere. I have used a multimeter to test all connections and I’m getting consistent voltage of over 13v anywhere I test. That leads me to believe that there is not a short, and that the 300A fuse is not blown (I've tested on both sides of the fuse).
However, my BMV 712 will not show any history (please see my updated attachments).
What am I missing here? Does anyone have any suggestions?
Hi, I've got an easy solar 3kva 48volt with a colour control, two months ago we found our Internet locked up, I suspected a network switch because disconnecting it got the network going and it's quite old, I've now got a longer cable (only 5m) it's now direct to the router but still won't connect, I've done a reboot from the settings and tried disconnecting the power lead, VRM says offline, colour control says online. totally lost now.
Should my easysolar wake up if I connect only ac input power from generator? At the moment I dont have batteries or solar panels connected and I want to test that everything is ok at the output devices, like lights and freezer.
Now I have connected input power but easysolar seems to be dead. I havent done anything else but connected input and outputs...
Je viens de terminer une installation ESS avec un EasySolar II GX 48/3000 et des batteries Pylontech, un CPI sur le DC (car 210Voc), et je suis en train de remplir le dossier consuel.
Et là, impossible de trouver le certificat vde0126 pour le easySolar II. Il est disponible pour le multiplus II pour la France, mais seulement pour les autres pays pour le easySolar II
Du coup comment faire pour le consuel ?
I have tried clearing the alarm by going to the GCCX clicking Menu. Selecting notifications. Arrowing down to the alarm. Pressing the space button and pressing the center button on the CCGX.
I have also restarted the GCCX.
According to the VRM logs voltage only went to 14.22, so not sure why that alarmed. Regardless I cannot seem to clear it. Any ideas?
Can I connect a 48v charger that has 58.8v 8a specifications to the PV input on the MPPT 100/20 48v to charge a 48v LifePO4 battery? I'm not sure the charger is 3 stage so I don't want to connect it directly to the battery as it might damage it. But if it is connected through the MPPT I believe the MPPT will only suppy whatever charge is needed to the battery.
Is it normal for a BlueSmart 12/30 mains charger to make this noise while it operates? It's very loud. The charger's a couple of years old now but has made this noise both times I used it. I find it somewhat disturbing, both audibly and mentally!
Sometimes when I power on the IP43 Charger (3/50A), it blows the fuse in the shore power pole. When the fuse is reset by someone of the marina, all works properly again. The unit a powering multiple lead/acid batteries.
I have read that someone else noticed a high startup consumption, but not sure he means this.
Do I have a faulty unit? Any suggestions?
I have just noticed that besides the Multiplus Compact 2k 120V (P/N CMP242200100) , there is now a Multiplus 2k 120V (P/N PMP242200100). What is the difference?
Is it bad for Lithium batteries to be going in to bulk / absorption daily - when they probably don't need to ?
Hello, would it be possible to use the new Lynx BMS with Pylontech batteries? e.g. by utilising the remote on/off pin?
i have a new installed system and now i have some wonrg data in the vrm.
I run a Grid inverter and a battery system.
if i look at the "total system grid" i can not see any massive cunsumption. but in the summery for the day it mentions 2,4 kWh from the grid. How is this posslibe?
Do i have any wrong setting?
Hi everyone. I have SmartSolar MPPT 100/20. And I have two questions: should I put a fuse between the controller and the battery? I know that there is already a 25A fuse in the device, but I do not know which line is protected by PV - MPPT or MPPT - BATTERY or maybe both or just LOAD? And second, is it true that if I disconnect the battery with solar panels connected, I will damage the charge controller? Regards Chris
I want to install the Orion TR Smart 12 | 12-18 isolated not because it is isolated but because an 18A non isolated version is not available. I am planning to use it to charge my start FLA battery from a LiFePO4 house bank when needed. My question is can the two negatives be combined as shown in the attached drawing.
I am trying to figure out the best way to wire my solar array. I will be running:
6 x 370W Trina solar panels with my Smart Solar MPPT 150/100 TR (Batteries are 24v). Photo attached of PV panel specs
Each panel has a max short circuit current rating of 11.37A. So I was thinking of running a 15A MC4 fuse for each panel. But the part I'm not sure about it how many cables I should run.
For example, Should I run smaller cables from each individual panel down to my electrical box, so I would have 12 cables (6 pos and 6 neg) running down to my electrical cabinet. (This seems like alot of cables...)
Should I join the panels into 3 pairs of 2 with MC4 splitters, so I would have 6 larger cables (3 pos and 3 neg) running down to my electrical cabinet
The cable run from the furthest panel from the electrical cabinet is just under 10m. So obviously whichever way I go I need the cable to be large enough to carry the current (in this case at least 15A for one panel, due to fuse size) over that distance for however many panels are feeding it but also small enough to be soldered into an MC4 connector.
I know that in some cases people use like a junction box to join the panels, but I really don't like the idea of a box being on the roof in the weather to get moisture etc inside of it. I'd prefer them to all join in the electrical box which I am planning on doing.
Sorry for the long question. Just trying to find out the proper way to do things. If that's completely different from what I'm imagining, I'm willing to embrace it.
My Victron MultiPlus 12/1600 / 70-16 does not charge with more than 50A ... it should be able to charge with 70A according to spec. Have you experienced anything similar? Do you have an explanation for what limits the charge?
The battery is not the limit, I can charge with significantly higher power with the generator. Attach my settings. The charge is about 60A in the beginning, the solar panel is alive. 10A and Multin 50A ....
I am wondering if I buy 3 VE Direct to USB cables, a USB splitter and a female to female USB extension, will I be able to hookup my solar controller to my mppt display and also the globallink? I really enjoy my display even though the MPPT is BT. This just seemed like a cheaper option to get my data into VRM than going the GX route. Thanks.
Recently I saw an Error 35 for no obvious reason on my MPPT RS 450/100. Configuraiton is 9x 375Wp panels on each tracker, east-west configuration. The short circuit current of the panels is around 11,5A according to the flash-list of the manufacturer with a Imppt of around 10A.
The error did happen when there was sun / clouds in short alternation leading to sharp bumps in solar production. Voltage was around 350V according to the logged data, my battery voltage is between 46V and 52.4V (pylontech battery).
Any clues what might be happening here? The unit is two month old...
German: Hallo zusammen, mein Setup: 12/800 im ECO-Modus: 56s (Pause) / 2s (Suchzeit)
der 12/800 versorgt einen Mini-Kühlschrank (Kompressor / Haushaltskühlschrank).
Ab und zu läuft jedoch der Inverter auf den Fehler: High AC-Out voltage alarm: Alarm
anschließend ressetet er sich, und alles läuft wie gewohnt weiter.
Woran liegt das? Wenn die die 2 Sekunden Suchzeit auf 1 Sekunde wird es noch schlimmer....
english: my setup is a phoenix 12/800 ruinning in eco mode with 56s (wait) / 2s (searchtime)
this inverter is powering a small kitchenfridge (kompressor).
sometimes the inverter is running into an error: High AC-Out voltage alarm: Alarm
after a while he resets himself and everything goes on usual.
Whats the Problem? If i set the searchtime from 2 secounds to 1 secound, its getting worse....
Hère is my setup :
Smart Solar mppt 100 20
128 ah 12v li ion batterie
I did plug everything in ordre but the Charging keep staying low, like 4w in full Sun. Thé yellow absord led IS on.
Andy thoughts ?
Sadly, no solution to my Load voltage disconnect problem, I want to perform a factory reset, but the reset i did was just a soft reset, is there a HARD RESET option? I want to to start again before deciding to just return it.
I just recently installed Easy Solar with Cerbo and GX Touch along with an AGM supercycle battery into a Mercedes Vario bus converted to a camper. Everything looks ok but I can't get the battery % to appear on the GX Touch so I have no idea of battery state. I connected to SP and fully charged the battery which I thought would then feed the info to the Cerbo through the battery controller in the Easy Solar but that hasn't happened. I have a lead coming from the vehicle battery to the AGM to charge it when driving.
What I am wondering, is there a way to get this working or do I need to install a smart shunt? If I do need to install a smart shunt will this connect to the cerbo via bluetooth or do I need connect with a VE connect cable?
It would be disappointing if I need a battery monitor on top of the Easy Solar.....
Thanks to anyone who can help.
We’re considering to add a USB accessory to our GX product range, to add 0 to 10V, as well 4 to 20mA inputs.
But since all of us have very limited experience with 4 to 20mA tank senders, we're looking for some input:
Also, if you are using 4 to 20 mA senders, please post a link to a datasheet or specs below. And if you have an opinion on the sender, what you like/don't like, welcome to add that.
Lastly, most questions above are for 4 to 20mA, not for 0 to 10V - but if you have special comments about 0 to 10V, welcome as well - obviously. The product we have in mind will have inputs that can be used for both types.
Note, that this is quite early in the product development, I can’t say anything for now with regards to availability dates.
All the best and thank you! Matthijs
ps. just to prevent any question about this: we'll soon launch a new Venus OS version that can work with irregular tank shapes, as well as naming tanks and some more features: all those features will also available for the 0 to 10V and 4 to 20mA inputs. Details here.
I have been having difficulty maintaining my system while for some reason my charge controller is not maintaining a steady energy stream. Solar panels are clean, functioning properly, in constant sun. This has also been effecting the 12v system as it has been below 11V
I am just wondering which settings I should use utilizing MK3 dongle to program MultiPlus Compact 12/1600/70 inverter/charger with 4pcs x 40Ah = 160Ah battery bank consists of 4pcs of batteries:
Batteries came from here, but are the same as above:
Thanks a bunch for advise!
I am interested in the functionality which I havent quite understood.
I have a Honda EU 20 with 1800W max and a Multiplus 800.
On battery I can supply up to 800W ish with known limitations (temp and cos phi)
Now can I get the full generator power of 1800W via its transfer switch through the 800 unit?
Does it boost the 1800 W to plus 800W to 2.6 kW short term?
Is it shore power limit to limit to 1800W and then taking as much or as little as it can get to charge the batteries.
Is being shut off due to overload a problematic state of operation. You cant beat stupid and I m hoping it will just stop working if somebody tries his hair dryer and that is an obvious enough sign for the ignorant user.
Hi, I am about to buy a used sailing trimaran and can't quite wrap my head around the ideal electrical setup. Any help would be much appreciated.
Additionally I'm planning to add the following:
I would like to intelligently combine the two systems/batteries as I expect that usually one or the other has more energy than it needs. So a bidirectional 12v - 48v charge system / battery combiner is what I am looking to implement.
I'm aware of cyrix products but not quite sure how to implement them in a 12v / 48v system.
Thanks for reading, curious about your ideas and solutions.
I have a boat with 2 outboards connected to a AGM starter bank. From here I would like to charge my lithium bank using 2 x Orion TR smart 12/12-30.
I have read about the voltage settings for starting and stopping. All good so far.
The problem starts if I run only one of the outboards (trolling etc) both Orions will start and overload the one 50ah alternator.
Is there a signal from each outboard I can connect to the Orions on/off port? What type of signal is accepted? On / off voltage or just short cutting? Do not know what the Yamahas provide.
I also have the Cerbo Gx connected to the NMEA 2000 so maybe the relays can be used if the cerbo understands which outboard is on/off?
For info I have the following equipment;
- 2 x 100ah lithium batteries c/w bms (aio)
- 2 x Orion Smart 12/12-30
- Cerbo GX
- Smart Shunt
- Smart MPPT 100/30 + solar panels
- 2 x yamaha f225
Hope there is someone out there with the same setup that can share their setup.
i want to over size my solar array for cloudy/winter days i have a SmartSolar 150/100 with 3kwp array with a Venus GX and a MultiPlus 3000/48 and i want to add another array on a BlueSolar 150/35 but i need to limit the total battery charge current, will the GX communicate with both MPPT's?
I’have seen in the VRM Portal the following screen, with missing percentage numbers.
The percentage numbers are missing since the day, when the consumption from grid is zero.
Maybe it’s a bug ?