I'm about to purchase 2 off 12-24V Smart DC-DC charger. The dealer I'm buying from advises they can only be connected in parallel for power supply mode, not as a charger. I want to use them to charge a lithium battery bank from the Engine battery/alternator on a Euro 6 engine. doubling up as I'd like more than 15amp of charge current.
I have set the 2 wire BMS in the ESS to disable charger when BMS needs to balance cells which takes some time, during this time the Multi goes into Passtrough and then the SmartSolar is disabled. Is there a way to use PV power from the SmartSolar while the BMS balances the cells ? I guess there is no since the cables are connected to the same points and thus would charge the battery innevitable or am i wrong ?
I am installing two independent solar arrays to my house bank. Each has a Victron 150/70 Smart Solar controller. For a display in the cabin can I monitor two separate controllers with a single Victron MPPT control display?
I apologize if I missed something already posted, but I’m trying to connect an N2K SeeLevel Tank monitor to a CCGX.
I am a bit confused as to what I physically need to facilitate this connection.
I have no other N2K “network” or system in place, and only have the CCGX and the SeeLevel (N2K enabled) controller head.
Is there a cable I can buy (or pinouts for a cable I can make myself) to connect these devices directly to each other?
There was a reference made by @mvader (Victron Energy)
For clarity, the “Victron N2K adapter to which @ben refers is just a plug converter goes from micro-c n2k style to RJ-45 Victron VE.Can style.
No electrical components or software in there.
Your help is greatly appreciated
I have the Victron BMV 712 Smart battery monitor (with two 100Ah BattleBorn 12V Lithiums), and while the monitor works great when boondocking, it does not work great on shore power; the readouts then make no sense: State of Charge (after a week on shore power): 13% (and dropping); Voltage: 14.44V; Current: -2.52A; Power: -36W; Consumed Ah: -186.9Ah.
Any idea what's up here?
I was interested in @drmi 's questions about connecting two ESS systems: https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/10357/two-ess-systems-grid-parallel.html....
I'm looking at a property with 4 x independent off-grid systems, each using a Multiplus 2 and are about 500m apart from each other. I'm interested in connecting these so that the stronger systems can support the AC power delivery of the weaker ones. (One gets great morning sun, and another gets great afternoon sun.) This would classify as island grid I guess. DC Connect is not an option. It appears that the 4 x systems could be connected via their AC-In. I'm also wanting to account for one or more of the systems going offline occasionally. Each would just treat the AC input as unreliable grid. Daisy chaining AC Out to AC In of the next and so on would not really be workable.
Can this be done? If so, do I need the current sense on AC-In or do I need full metering? Do the systems need to be aware of each other via GX? I know I need to configure for ESS, but any special settings needed for feeding AC only once batts are full?
Hey guys, new here. Relatively new to 12v setups all together.
Bought an IP65 15ah to charge my 25ah lithium and my 100 AGM.
Having an issue charging the lithium from flat, it automatically goes to absorption mode, I can’t get it to charge in bulk at all.
what settings do I need to change, if any, to achieve this?
thanks in advance
I have a 12/3000/120 MultiPlus and I'm trying to understand some Overload issues that I'm experiencing and wondering if the Boost Factor is potentially causing the issue.
Setup is as follows:
Input Limit: 30A
Power Assist: Enabled
Boost Factor: 2.0
Input Power: 4500W Inverter Generator (3800W running)
I've noticed when a large load comes online that the MP will overload and disconnect. I also get an error from my EMS that the voltage has gone "out of spec" (sadly it doesn't tell me which way). What is interesting is that the load is under the 30A input limit and can easily be handled by the generator alone. I'm wondering if the MultiPlus is "preparing" to power assist approximately 7200W (Boost Factor * Input Limit) and causing the overload itself?
If I set the MP to "Charger Only" the Generator can handle these loads just fine. So it seems to be something specific to Power Assist causing the issue. I do plan on turning down the Input Current and running this same test to see if Power Assist successfully assists without disconnecting but I haven't ran this test yet.
Should I lower the Boost Factor down to 1 (or maybe even lower) to stay within the 3000W that the MP can provide? Is there anyway to configure this so that it is not reliant on the input limit? For instance if I'm connected to 15A power I would want a higher boost factor.
I have recently purchased a Victron Quattro 48/10000kva and installed it in my setup. I run a BMV-712, Cerbo GX, Two Smart solar MPPTs on a 25kwh LiFepo4 pack.
I was excited to get the new inverter hooked up as I was upgrading from a Chinese one. When I got it running I noticed it was consuming 100w at idle (no AC load hooked up). I'm measuring the consumption using a BMV-712 which I'm confident is reading correctly. I have ended up going back to my Chinese inverter as its power consumption is far better (35W with no AC load).
Has anyone else experienced this issue and fixed it? I'm running factory settings on firmware version 413. Are there any energy saving improvements I can make? AES won't work for me as I have a small continuous load of 65W. When the quattro is running this load the power consumption remains the same at 100w (165w total). In contrast my Chinese inverter sits around 35W (100w total).
This was an expensive inverter so I'm really hoping there's a solution.
I have just bought an Easysolar-II GX and before I install it I want to make sure I have all the necessary accessories. I've looked through the manual and online, but am uncertain as to how I am supposed to configure settings like the charging parameters for the Pylontech batteries, or the start switch for generator backup. Do I run VE Configure on my PC and need to buy a USB to RS232 converter? Or perhaps I can do the configuration via wifi or Bluetooth without any accessories?
I have a 100w 12v panel on the roof of my camper, connected via a Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100V 20amp controller. I want to add an external portable 100w 12v panel that I can move around to face the sun better. I think I can wire both panels in parallel into the charge controller, and disconnect (via power poles or the like) the portable one when not in use.
Is there any danger in this kind of a configuration? Or am I looking at it incorrectly?
Thanks in advance!
Would it be possible to just wire up shore power to the Multiplus without solar at first? I don't want to drop ALL the money required for batteries, charge controller, panels, etc. right now. I'm installing the whole electrical system myself and just wanted to at least run shore power to make sure things are wired properly and such.
I have 2x MultiPlus-II 48-5000 in parallel.
I have set to my grid feed in to -70w.
My batteries are never below 50% Lithium.
But i keep or should i say, victron keeps sucking from grid about 2KW per day
Has any one else got this problem or more so how to fix this ??
I just dont understand, spent good monies and still sucking from grid especially when i dont need to, it just frustrating
I have installed a temperature sensor for my fridge connected to a Cerbo GX. Is it possible to get the temperature to display on the screen similar to the tank info? The only way I can figure out how to see the temp is to go into connected devices.
I have a Victor on 3000 multi plus where to AGM batteries hooked up every once a while I’ll try to just turn on the inverter and it has a low battery indicating light I’ll check the voltage on my AGM batteries and I’ll be at 12.85 V so it should be essentially 100%. I checked the connections are all tight. I’ll plug it into shore power and then the inverter will turn on and starts charging the batteries again. So why am I getting low battery alarm when I’m essentially full. It’s getting frustrated since it was expensive system and it’s new it’s only three months old
Dears, this is my current, well running setup:
EasySolar 5kW + 48V 10KW Lithium Battery (Winston-cells) + 480W Solar Panels
Installed in a cabin, 2000m elevation in the alps -> So its a "island system" with no access to a grid
The cabin is protected against lightning impacts with a lightning rod. Unfortunately, the resistance is a little high with about 100 Ohm.
The EasySolar ground is connected to the lightning rod in order to be grounded.
I worry a little bit, that a lightning impact might damage the electronics, due to the high resistance in to the ground. I have installed fuses to protect everything as good as possible. Only the battery negative pole is directly connected to the EasySolar.
Question 1: Should I install a fuse on the negative pole of the battery as well? Because in case of a impact, the lightning would go into the rod and therefore directly to the earth connector of the EasySolar and then through the negative pole into the battery (if the resistance is lower than 100 Ohm).
Question 2: Would it make more sense, to unhook the system from the lightning rod and give it its own grounding? -> In case of a impact (in to the rod), the only connection would be through the solar panels which have a decent fuse.
Many thanks for your advise!
BMV 712 smart 2 6 volt battery
I have mid range selected in the software. however the digital display does show mid range for voltage correctly but the app only shows mid percent deviation. Is there anyway to view mid range voltage through the app?
I have Orion-tr input connected to local Van vehicle battery, and then output to a three battery pack 100AH lithium.
Batteries are connected to a Orion BMV shunt.
When the Van is not on, I have a battery output of 4 amps. When the Van is powered on, I have a battery output of 23 AMPs.
Why would the batteries be sending out more current when Orion is on? In my mind, the Orion output Voltage is connected to the batteries so it is charging them, why would that cause the batteries to have a jump in amp output?
We have a MUMM 36 racing sailboat, with some pooched AGM batteries.
We have ordered two Lithium batteries:
One small for starting (dedicated)
One 100Ah for house
House runs basically run the electronics, cabin lights, and nav lights.
We typically do long distance overnight races, charging every 8-12 hours with a 55 amp standard alternator.
To charge the Lithium when underway, I have purchase a 12/12-30 DC-DC Charger from Victron.
Hopefully you can read this diagram!
The only thing not on the diagram are 60amp fuses at the positive battery posts.
There are 3 existing single pole battery switches that isolate the start and house batteries.
We never operate these switches when underway.
Should the Smart TR charger be cabled directly to the batteries, or on the other side of the isolation switches so it is closer to the alternator?
NOTE: also installing a Smart Shunt, but it is back ordered with our supplier.
I recently bought a Victron MultiPlus Compact 24V | 2000 VA | 50A from Northern Arizona Wind & Sun (https://www.solar-electric.com/victron-energy-multiplus-inverter-24-2000-50.html).
I followed the manual that came with the unit and plugged the device into my wall outlet.
Whenever I turn on power I automatically get a solid red alarm light whether the device is in "inverter" or "charger". I tried powering down the unit and providing power to it again to no avail. I am not sure (based on the solid red) where or what the alarm would be triggering.
I have attached images of my setup for reference. I have tried the unit with and without the temperature selection and seem to get the issue.
I have four 6v golf cart batteries configured in a series/parallel circuit. They are not cross-tied. Is it even possible to monitor the midpoint like this? At some point I connected B2 from the shunt to the positive terminal that is in-between one of the series. I think I'm only monitoring the midpoint of one set of batteries, right?
Is there any way to do this across all four batteries without adding cables and cross-tying everything?
I am about to install the 500A/50mV-Shunt to my self-made battery (LiFePo4) system and bought the correct temp sensor for the connection with Vbatt+ and Aux.
As I have connected my cells main positive to a copper strip (20x3mm) in order to be able to use bigger lugs (the battery cells only have M6), and the heavy duty lug on the temp sensor has a M10 hole, I was wondering where I should ideally connect it:
A, at the raw cells’ main positive
B, at the battery input of the main fuse, supplying it with power even when the fuse has blown.
C, at the fuse output, NOT supplying it with power, after the fuse has blown, but with a fitting M10 bolt. This is where I will connect the distribution bus bar with all my loads and chargers.
Also, I was wondering whether I could install a manual switch in the positive cable of the temp sensor, making it possible to turn off the shunt and prevent micro current in case I want to store the battery.
I have a Victron Smart Solar MPPT, BlueSmart IP65 and Orion-Tr in my setup. Am I understanding it correctly that the temperature sensor of the SmartShunt supplies all of these with the temperature reading when in the same network as the others, in order to optimize charging?
Thanks in advance for your answers!
P.S.: Of course, I have a BMS between the battery main negative and the shunt, I just didn’t draw it in the above scribble, as the temp sensor should be connected to the positive side, as shown in the manual.
We have a handful of installations that started producing frequent "No Grid Meter alarm: Warning".
This is exclusively related to installations that have a CCGX (Color Control), a Victron inverter, a grid meter, and ESS configuration with Venus OS that has been updated to 2.66 on the GX device.
We have resolved one of our installations that presented this issue by temporarily upgrading the client to a Cerbo GX.
2.66 has yielded the incredible feature in the form of the inverter remote update functionality, but it appears that the new firmware is not stable on the CCGX and is resulting in significant system instability.
Has anyone experienced the same?
I'm hoping Victron is working on an update to remedy this...
3x Multiplus II 48/5000
2x MPPT 250/100
1x Fronius Symo 15 on AC out
8x Pylontech US3000
I have a problem with the DVCC feature "limit charge current". I have set the max charge current in DVCC to 60A.
If i enable grid feed-in (AC & DC) the system ignors the max charge current and charges up to the max current of the pylontech battery 296A.
With grid feed-in disabled everything works as expected, the system limits the charge current to 60A.
Is this normal? Am i missing something?
shall I connect 12 volt into the energizer Chanel for provide charge signal to alternator? Or is this an output chanel? If its an output, what is the voltage?
I'd like to deactivate the feature "Error code: #38 - Input shutdown due to battery over-voltage" on one of my MPPT. In my application the MPPT must not short circuit the input becaus it can be dangerous in my system and could eventually hurt the MPPT. So how can I disable this feature?
Here comes a little explanation why this is important to me:
I have 4 MPPT in my 48V (lead-gel) system and are controlled by ESS. The 5th MPPT is controlled by ESS as well but has not to charge higher than 52V if ESS is off for some reason - eg GX device not working. Then the other chargers go higher than 52V and the 5th MPPT tells me Error code #38.
I came to know because I did a firmware update. usually I was doing the update at night, so there was no issue because the battery voltage was lower than 52V when ESS was not working for a minute. But last time, I did during the day, when battery voltage was higher than the fallback setting of 52V inside MPPT and boom, error #38, all fuses blown, etc. not nice....
For the time beeing I have raised the fallback setting of this MPPT to the value of the other MPPTs, in order to prevent this behaviour.
I suppose this is not yet possible. In this case please see it as a feature request. Thanks!
Proud owner of a Victron BMV 700 in Canada and I need to ask a somewhat basic question.
Supposing I have a relay close/discharge floor set for a minimum state of charge (SoC) of 50%, and/or an alarm buzzer set for 50%, to avoid hurting my battery. Am I correct in understanding that the SoC screen and visual battery status indicator (the one that looks like a cell phone battery status) nonetheless shows an absolute reading between 0 and 100%? In other words, if I set up precautions to prevent discharge below 50%, the SoC indicator does not "recalibrate" such that "0%" equals my desired maximum discharge floor of 50%?
I assume the answer is no; "50%" SoC/half-full battery icon means the battery is indeed at 50%, and my discharge floor relay and/or buzzer will sound at this mark.
Thanks for the clarification.
All I need the inverter for is to run Keuring coffee machine in the morning in my travel trailer. The power consumption of the coffee machine while brewing is around 1450W and it will only run for 3 to 5 minutes at the time. Is the Phoenix 12/800 sufficient or do I need to go to 12/1200. My preference if possible would be to stay with the smaller one.
Who can help, because similar topics seemed to be unanswered.
I‘ve tried to upgrade the 2606413 firmware of my Multiplus 12/70/1600 to firmware 2606482 for ESS and to connect the Bluetooth dongle.
Followed the steps precisely but at connect part 2 I get “Error connecting. Please try again!”
The Multiplus was disconnected from the color control. Then the dipswitch settings were re-programmed (DS1 was on, now off and DS2 was off and now on) followed by switching DS8 from of to on and off again to store.
Power was removed as mentioned in step 1.
MK3 to USB was connected via COM4 and working.
I found that when I switched the Multiplus of (step 1) and on again while connected to the MK3 the unit doesn’t turn on and there is no connection at all.
LED’s remain off as well.
When I switch the multiplus off with the MK3 cable disconnected and then switch it on, it starts in inverting mode with the green light on.
However, then I get the connection error.
I tried both ports on the Multiplus; doesn’t matter.
Hope anyone can help!
I have a full Victron setup with networking enabled between everything. Main question is about MPPT 100/20 and BMV 712 to a shunt. Having some particular questions on the MPPT readings.
Is the battery reading on MPPT supposed to be the output readings from the Battery, or how much the Solar is sending to the battery?
The reading on the MPPT is 10amp, while the reading on the Shunt BMV is 4 amps.
Can the difference between these values be that far off? And if so, which one is the more accurate?