Hi

I have a 24v Victron lithium setup and have 12v loads. I am using an Orion 24/12 70 dc converter and wondering if you need a battery protect or can use the BMS load disconnect to turn off the Orion directly.

Thanks

Grant

Our VW camper has leisure battery, solar panel, electric hookup setup. Following installation of the leisure electrics, everything worked as expected for about a year. For the last 6 months, I noticed on the Victron app that the MPPT charger is "off" almost all the time. I assumed during the UK winter that this was due to low light and short days. We're now in Spain. The charger seems to come on for about an hour at sunrise, and the panel voltage gets up to about 18-19v. However, the leisure battery state of charge continues to diminish, and then the MPPT switches off as the sun gets higher. There is bright sunshine in the middle of the day, but the app shows no solar voltage generated. This pattern seems the same whether we're plugged in to a campsite EHU or not. Can anyone suggest what might be happening?

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I'm installing 6 Renogy 320 two strings 3, in parallel (8awg) to combiner box (8awg) to 150/70 mppt (2awg) to lynx using 4 12v Redodo 200ah plus Lifepo4 two string parallel 24v (4/0) to lynx powering a Sungoldpower 24v 4000w inverter charger (4/0) in a 2018 Coachman Freedom Liberty Express under the bed and the inverter is in pass-through with temperature actuated fans. AC lines from shore ran underneath to inverter then back to original WFCO destination.

My question among many. Can I install from lynx(24v) to the (2awg) Orion 24/12 70 to the existing 12v wires that lead to tounge battery ( instead of 12v battery use the 24/12 70) and not have to use a battery outside? And thus not having to change or alter STOCK converter WFCO.

This was the game plan and I'm all set to mount components to board and run wires.

Hi all. I've updated my firmware for 4 MPPT 150/45-TRs and they are all now at v1.61 and in the VC app on my phone it says "latest version". However, when I look in the firmware files list on this site, I see the latest version is 3.13 (the file is "SmartSolar_MPPT_Charger_150_70_v3.13_A06C.xup").

Can anyone shed light on the discrepancy?

Hey there,

today we had the issue that our MultiPlus-II 12/3000/120-32 turned off when the provided "grid" voltage dropped below about 215V. I'm not sure about the exact voltage, but its somewhere between 215 and 218V. The measurements were taken from by the MultiPlus and also a second external device, but both showed the same voltage (just that the MultiPlus is really slow in its reporting).

The "grid" is in this case a generator, an older model from the 80s or 90s, without inverter technology, so the voltage varies a bit. Specifically, the voltage goes up a bit under load and down when there is not much load (mechanical controls..). The upper limit is about 232V under load, the lower limit I saw today was about 205V with nearly no load, so this voltage range is the usual range that we get from this generator. As charging progressed and the charging power went down, the load on the generator also went down and with it the voltage. When we got to the aforementioned about 215V, the MultiPlus turned off (not completely, but switched to inverting as if there was no grid available at all - just that it still reported the about 215V provided to the Cerbo GX).

The reasons why I'm asking on this forum about something that sounds like a generator related problem are:

1. camping places often provide similar voltages, as their wiring is usually not great and
2. according to the datasheet, the charger in the MultiPlus accepts Voltages between 187 and 265V

Further, here in germany the grid's is allowed to go down as low as 180V, so this should not be a problem that turns off the charger.

In VE.Configure in the Grid tab, the lower barriers for voltages are set to 180V for disconnect and 187V for recovery. So that should also not be cause of the problem.

215V is a bit too early for my sense, as this has the risk of draining the battery without me noticing. Although the inverter turns off at a certain battery voltage, this doesn't make the situation any better, as this might lead for example to a not cooling fridge, which could be really bad on hot summer days.

How do I get the MultiPlus to not stop charging as long as the provided voltage is above 180V?

Hi there, I want to protect a 12v battery from being drained too far by a "dumb" small inverter with a low load on it. Apparently it's forbidden to have the inverter on the load side of the battery protect due to inverter inrush currents damaging it. The inverter has no remote control so the purpose was to cut the current if the battery gets too low.

Can I use the Cyrix-ct as a relay to cut the battery off using the battery protect as the control or are there any other solutions that can be implemented cost effectively?

The inverter will draw 1000w max continuous, and is not powering any loads like motors that require a large boost amperage.

Please assist?

A very unusual error has occurred with my MultiPlus-II 12/3000/120-32.

This happened after updating CerboGX/multiplus firmware to newest version via the VRM portal. Have reverted to previous version and issue persists. shore current draw is stuck at 0.5 amps.

The AC input will not charge batteries (2x 200ah LiFePo4 12v) but will supply power via AC out. Current flows when an AC appliance is connected via inverter output but batteries are not charging although being at 13.06v about 40% charge. SOC has never properly displayed but since the update the batteries have always charged after shore power is connected.

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I have rebooted several times, tested shore power will draw 10amps and reconfigured settings. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Will the Eco or AES (Phoenix Compact) mode work with a new AC Refrigerator?

Well after scanning this forum, asking my Victron Dealer, and scouring a dozen RV user groups - yep hours and hours - no one has an answer to the question above. Victron Energy Corp - come on, this should be something you can step up and help us answer!?

Users have concluded that the scanning in the Eco (or AES?) is not enough to let the fridge controller fire up, start working, then request more power to run / start the compressor. However, some of these users have only a 500w version which may not be enough, or they don't seem to really dive into the all the programing options for these modes. I have read plenty of 500w Victron inverters in regular mode being reported as "no problem". But in combination with the Eco or AES mode - maybe an issue with not enough power?

I have yet to see a user that reported they went extensively into testing the program variables the Eco mode - they talk about increasing the scan mode from 3 seconds to 30 seconds, but that seems to be where their testing ends. It seem that a proper balance of wattage, scan time, and frequency would work. Maybe a 5 minute scan every 30 minutes being the answer, but honestly, I am a newbie and trying to find solutions before diving into investments and installations and committing to an AC Fridge over a 12V (Concerned a 12V in my 115 degree summer heat will not perform as well as the AC version, plus the AC cost is a fraction and replacements / repairs are easy). It's all a balance.....LOL.

SO - Victron Engergy - how about some help here!?!? Users have no idea, Dealers have no idea, I suggest you could increase your inverter sales 100x IF the Eco or AES modes could be confirmed to work on a newer AC Fridge (especially the 10cuft sized units). And, then tell how to properly program these energy modes to work.

Thank you!

Larry

Hi Community,

for 3 month i run 3* Victron Multiplus II + 3*US3000C. Firmware Version of all the Multiplus II is 502; Cerbo GX is v2.92 and Pylontech 1.7 (was already running 1.8).

The System run without any issues for the last 8-12 weeks, but since Monday evening I get “low battery voltage reported” and this in all flavors: At 52.00 Volt, at 51.50 Volt and at 49.00. Sure, the whole bandwidth is included.

I did a lot of research, thought one out of fours Pylontech (or even more) are defective, so connected all of them individual, but the issue remains.

I did a complete reset and fresh install of all Multiplus II, same behavior. As soon the MP2 come up proper, Low Voltage gets reported on Multiplus II Phase I (so the first one out of three).

I connected a Power Supply and started at 52.00 V. As soon all Multiplus II are up and running, the Voltage drops from 52.00 V to 45.00 V. Goes up again and down, until a Relays? Disconnect the input for a while.

Anyone knows or had a similar problem before?

Thanks and best,

Patrick

Hopefully someone will be good enough to advise and help me figure out what has happened so I can prevent it from happening again in the future.

I have a typical DC off grid system with a Lynx Shunt, two Lynx Distributors, a Multiplus 48/5000 and two 250/100 Charge Controllers, coupled with Seplos Mason 280AH battery. At the time the system was under external control

At 12:44PM both of my SmartSolar MPPT 250/100 VE.Can charge controllers had a "Err 39 - Input Shutdown (retry)" error. One Charge controller automatically recovered but the other reported an ERR - 86.

I followed the instructions to reset the one charge controller still erroring and all seemed well for couple of minutes until it reported "Err 87 - PV Input shutdown".

At the same time my Lynx Shunt went offline, it was no longer seen by my Cerbo Gx and all power lights on the shunt and both my Distributors went off. I have checked all the fuses and all seem fine, everything is getting power, but it is still dead. One of my solar arrays also seems to be showing no amps after this event (whatever it was) and my battery also showed a cell imbalance error at the same time and it's SOC dropped to 0. The array connected to the errorring charge controller has produced zero amps since that event.

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Hopefully someone can help identify what has happened so I can stop it happening again in the future. I've tried to include as much information as I can think of that is relevant, if anything else is required please don't hesitate to ask.

Thanks in advance, as I'm at an absolute loss to what could ave triggered this and exactly what I will now need to do to remedy it?

Hi there seems to be a mismatch between the reading on my Smart solar and my Battery monitor leading to 0 current and no power going from the solar panels to the batteries. Any idea what would cause this? Theyre both on the same network and firmware has been updated. I have tested the terminals on the unit for the battery and the PV and there is power going through them.IMG_3013.PNGIMG_3014.PNGIMG_3015.PNG

My Mulitplus 24V2000 will be connected to a 20A circuit breaker in my basement subpanel. On the AC OUT side, I was looking at installing two 15A "breakers". Now I see that there are two different type MCBs: circuit breakers that are UL 489 and supplementary protectors that are UL 1077 certified. Given that I have circuit protection at my subpanel , can I simply use a UL1077 breaker on the AC Out side?

Hi,

To ground phonenix 12V/500VA, what type of lug should be used for Inverter EARTH connection - to me seems that you can use just bare wire - maybe twisted - there is bolt to secure wire, so i think dont need special lug for it - if someone can confirm or is there good technical way 2 do it?

oTher question -> if you want to stop oxidation, say on chasiss outside for earthing cable, what is good to use to: increase good conductivity and also protection wise, any recommendation. Doing this first time.

Third question - to ground phonenix 12V/500VA -> you just need to connect earth outpuit on inverter to negative battery if i understand this correctly, please prove me wrong if not correct.

Petr

System is Victron Batteries, Lynx BMS, Cerbo GX and dual 24v 3kva Multiplusses. The batteries are 4 330AH 12V batteries in two strings of 2 for a 24v nominal voltage.

This is on a boat with a solar array and connected to shore power.

We drew the batteries down to about %75 SOC before connecting shore power. While connected to shore power the solar was not being used at all. So we installed ESS onto the Multipluses following advice.

Now when connected to shore power, the Solar produces its max energy (it seems) and the Multiplus is inverting and charging as necessary.

But at night. the Multiplus charges VERY slow. Took something like 12 hours to put in 4kwh which could have safely been done in 2 hours?!

For example, nothing from PV, input limit from shore power set at 18A (2kw) and the battery at a %75 SoC the Multiplus only charges at a few hundred watts, like 200w. This took forever to bring the battery back up to %100. The Multiplus shows "absorption" light as on.

The Lynx BMS has CVL set at 27v and that's the voltage so I think the batteries are maybe at 27v and so there's not much current flowing.

The batteries didn't get down to the %70 threshold set in the Lynx BMS so it didn't start a "new cycle".

So, I guess I understand what is happening, I'm just not sure I like it. I would have hopped the batteries would be charged at 1500w or some reasonable percentage of the shore power current limit unit they were near full.

Maybe I should set the threshold in the BMS to %95?

I do like the idea of fast charging to %95 then trickling from there.

I have what I believe is an error in the Service-Manual-MultiPlus-3k-120V-(firmware-xxxx4xx)-EN.pdf (Version 7 date 8/3/2020) on pages 11-12.

This is regarding DIP switch ds2 in step 2 controlling the output AC voltage of either 115 or 120. Page 11 says ds2=off =120V. The examples on p12 give contradictory info. When I tried ds2=off I had 115VAC output and ds2=on produced 120V.

I'm currently having trouble getting full charge current output. I haven't tried setting ds3,4 in Step 1 to the inverse to see if I get better output, but I'm wondering if the documentation is correct there.

Thanks

Chris