A new beta came out today that includes smartshunt 2.33. It failed during the upgrade. I now cannot connect. I get the message to install the firmware. Tried the officially released version and it fails also. the smartshunt is connected to my color control and appears to be reporting fine. I just can’t connect to it via Bluetooth without getting the message to upgrade the firmware.
Out of the box SmartSolar 150/70 did not show up on VictronConnect device list. Under Product Info screen there is no Bluetooth Enabled switch. Device works with USB and VE.Direct Bluetooth Smart Dongles. None of these see the switch. All parings released and Apps stopped. No change. Is this thing defective?
Hallo ich hab ein Problem mit mein laderegler 150/100 VE.CAN er jagt die Volt zahlen sehr hoch und denn unterbricht der Ladevorgang… und das ständig… was ist das? Ist das ein Software Problem ? Hab schon ein Neuen gekauft und bei dem ist das gleiche… und bei einen anderen Victron laderegler funktionieren die Panels einwandfrei !!! Bitte um Hilfe ?….:(
I've been having problems getting my generator power to reach my Multiplus 12v/3000 inverter. I went to check today at the multiplus system to see if the wire had been pulled, but I found a burnt neutral in the AC in connection. How could this have happened? How do I fix it?
I have the controller set at the default 2 position on the dial. The first time I set it up, it got up to 14.4v and went to absorption, then to float. My battery was fully charged. The last two days (everything is new) my battery seems to get “stuck” at around 12.7 volts. I have 200 watts of solar. My battery is back up to 12.6 by noon, but it’s never getting higher Despite it being sunny. All afternoon I see anywhere from 70- 100 watts and 5-6 amps from my panels, but my battery voltage is refusing to rise.
FWIW, the battery and charger are in the same space and are the same temperature. Connections look tight. Things worked on my first charging run also, but not now. It was also in full Sun and got that day too. I’m stumped. Any ideas?
If I look to my statistics in VRM on 30 days there is a big difference between how many power that comes from or go’s to the battery. In my opinion this difference can only be as large as my battery size.
setup: multiplus II go 48/5000 , 6 x Pylontech 2000 battery and a mppt 450/100
Reference my previous question...
SmartSolar Charge Controller MPPT 150/35 MPPT Error #28 Power stage issue - Victron Community (victronenergy.com)
So I've sent my unit in for warranty, and the repair station is telling me I've overloaded it and caused the damage - Warranty Denied.
I suspect the unit was faulty from original manufacture, because I was never able to produce the power expected. Originally I had 8 solar panels and could only produce about 500 Watts. Here’s a typical screen shot under full sun…
Since I was never producing more than about 500 watts with my bank of 8 panels, I decided to go up to 16 panels. The spec sheet says that if more power is connected, the controller will limit input power. I made sure I didn’t exceed the 150V and 40 amp input maximums. VOC is only 109.6V with 4 panels in series, and ISC is only 35.92 with 4 panels in parallel. Shouldn’t the MPPT be able to handle this setup?
Hello everyone, I’m looking for some guidance on how best to configure my smartshunt. It has been physically installed correctly will all sources funnelling through it prior to the battery bank that is made up of two Lithium’s for a total of 540ah.
The problem I’m having is; the batteries are current at 85%, I know this through the BMS however the shunt is reporting 100%. Here are my settings, sure wish there was a way to post a screenshot
Battery capacity: 540 ah
Charge voltage: 13.4
Discharge floor: 10%
Tail current: 4%
Charged detection time: 3m
Peukert component: 1.05
Charge efficiency factor: 99%
Current threshold: 0.10 a
Time-to-go average period: 3m
Battery start synchronized is on
I’ll wait until the charger goes to float and the batteries are known to be 100% then I’ll manually synchronize. I’d hate to have to do this every time though.
Appreciate any assistance.
Is this combination of components possible to utilize for the desired outcome of a 33v charge?
I've currently got the 12/24v buck boost converter in use but it can only charge my batteries to 30v. (my batteries are 28-33v operational)
I want to take that 30v and boost it to 33v and it seems the only way would be to use the Orion converter then send that into an MPPT.
Is this possible?
Our system consisted of 9 Quattro 15 Kva inverters, and 23 SmartSolar MPPT 250/100,
System working four months without problems, 6 days ago the Error Code: #38 appeared in our solar system and one of the MPPT Solar Charger burned and all remaining solar chargers stop working (no charge from the solar, no light flashing ) when we try to investigate about this we found 2.4V variation between the MPPT solar chargers, and inverters charge voltage setting. (MPPT setting : absorption =55.2V float=54V, equalization not active (disable))and inverter setting is ( absorption =57.6V,float=55.2V, equalization not active (disable )), So our concern is if this variation (2.4)V could cause error #38? , if this error could burn and make all solar mppt faulty.? If yes why has the system working for about 4 months with this configuration without any problems?
I want to make sure I've configured my MultiPlus' correctly. So far when I've used more than one 'Switch condition' all conditions were natually met so I still don't know if selecting multiple conditions are 'AND' values (all must be met), and not 'OR' (any combination).
I was able to verify the 'Extra drive options' are OR values by selecting 'in case of general system failure' and the assistant worked despite being selected. I've created quite a few programable relays to ensure they're evaluated as 'OR' values.
I suppose I can add another programmable relay with mutually exclusive switch conditions. I'd rather know from the source how they are supposed to behave rather than assume and potentially get tripped up on a new firmware release.
I'm running two MulitPlus 24/3000/70-50 120V in parallel. firmware v482.
When the multis inverting the AC-OUT Watts is close enough (+- a few percent) to V*A = W.
With Honda EU2200i generator running:
AC IN: rough average V*(A*1.6) = W
AC OUT: rough average V*(A*2.56) = W
Input limit: 5.0A
Overruled by remote: Off
Inverter Power Assist: Off
With generator running
AC IN 1:
Current: 9.5 (15.2\9.5=1.6)
AC OUT L1:
Current: 3.8A (9.725\3.8)=2.56)
As long as I set the Input limit to 1/3 of what I want the maximum watts pulled from the generator, it won't overload the generator. Setting it at 4.3A in general ensures it never pulls much more than 1,800W. At 5W it will creap up towards 1,900W and bounce between there and 2,100W at 120V.
I did measure same length 5' (1.5M) and torque down the 6 AWG(13.3mm2) THHN copper from busbar to the two Multi's the same. However, amp meter shows load is different about 1:3 between the two Multi's. Wondering if that mismatch in load is the cause of my issues? Unsure what to do other than maybe change out the THHN wire to Ancor Marine 266 strand tin coated copper.
Just so strange that the AC OUT L1 current is so far off when in passthru vs. inverting.
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
My charge controller is displaying an error code # 28 and is interrupting charging. The recommended solution is to "Disconnect all wires, and then reconnect all wires. If the error persists the charge controller is probably faulty." I've tried disconnecting the wires, and on restart, the controller seems to produce good power for a few seconds, then quickly drops to about 15% current. The controller will continue to charge, sometimes for many hours, at 15% current.
I have a 4P4S Solar Panel configuration charging a 48V bank of LifePo4 cells.
Panels are each Pm 200W, Voc 27.4V, Isc 8.98A
Is this controller damaged, or can it be rectified with software updates? Should I send this in for further warranty investigation?
I am struggling to find the cause of very bad performance of my sailboat 40W solar panel installation.
The controller is Bluesolar MPPT 75/10. There are 2 horizontal panels of 20W each, connected in parallel. The panels are Sunbeam Tough Flush T20F. According to data they are supposed to have Vmp=20.88V, Imp=0.99A, Voc=24.48V and Isc=1.19A each.
My gel battery is not full and needs charge. The last weeks there has been plenty of sun. I am in south of Sweden. However the max power seems to be only mediocre 4W and a typical daily yield is only 30-50 Wh. The panel current sum normally is 0.3A in full sun when the panels are not shaded.
The cable is 2.5 mm2 from the panels. I have checked all connections. I even tested another temporary cable just to be sure.
According to nearby weather stations solar radiation intensity is typically 960 W/m2 at this time of the year, which is not that far away from the test conditions 1000 W/m2.
According to the Victron calculator the panels should produce almost 150 Wh/day or a max charge current of around 3A. But my poor 30 Wh/day or max current 0.3A is simply so much lower that I am now frustrated. I was hoping for at least 100 Wh/d or perhaps even more. A max power of 25W or current of 2A was also in my expectations from this 40W installation.
With a Fluke 179 multimeter I have measured the sum from the two parallelled horizontal panels as Voc=21.9V and Isc=0.95A when in max sun at 13:00. That is much lower than the panel data, isn't it? As there are two panels Isc should be 2*1.19A=2.4A at perfect conditions.
My tests also reveal that one of the panels seems weak, as it only gives half the current than the other does. And its voltage seems lower than the other.
The solar panel producer Sunbeam says that the Victron controller is not good enough and wants me to buy theirs instead. They say that their controller starts at a much lower voltage difference and consumes much less power, They say it is better than the Victron, in what ways I don't know.
I have read various posts here on the subject, but it seems as everyone is getting much more out of their panels than I do.
Should I claim warranty on one or both of the panels?
Or am I simply expecting too much?
Or could there be a problem with the Victron Bluesolar MPPT 75/10 controller itself?
in meinem Schiff ist eine Victron 12/70/1600 installiert, es werden aktuell 4 Bleibatterien darüber geladen mit je ca. 200 Ah, eine davon Starterbatterie. Ich möchte nun eine AGM-Batterie (Varta 115 Ah) zusätzlich laden. Ergibt sich aus den unterschiedlichen Ladekennlinien (Bleiakkus und AGM-Akku) daraus ein Problem oder "regelt" das die Victron?
Danke für Ihr Interesse und eventuelle Antworten!
I moved my PV inverter from AC input to AC output of my 3F MP-II system.
I could see the energy being fed into the grid, but on the VRM there is a 0.0kWh in the "To Grid" box.
Why is that?
I would like to have my MPPT 75/15 to operate as normal during the day, but cut power to the load at night.
I like the concept of the street light function however it appears to only do the opposite.
I have searched other options on the forum which have pointed towards the user defined algorithms in the load output operation mode section.
I read that it has 'load switch high voltage level' and 'load switch low voltage level.' I want the load to completely turn off, not just reduce in power. Maybe it does cut off power completely and I am just interpreting it incorrectly.
If you could please let me achieve my scenario that would be great.
I just installed a BVM 712. I set the battery capacity and everything appears to be working but the time to go does not change. i ran every light and the fridge for over 12 hours last night and this morning the time to go is at 240 H which is the same as it was last night prior to running these things. The battery charge percentage came down from 100% to 93% so it seems to me that the time to go should have changed as well. What am I missing?
So I built a system with all Victron components - LFP Smart Batteries, Multiplus, Cerbo, BMV-712. It's working great, but... Only now am I finding out that the VE.Bus BMS doesn't allow me to control the inverter on/off state through anything but the Digital Control Panel which is really annoying.
Is there any alternative BMS out there I could use that would be similar to the VE.Bus BMS? I don't have room or the option to use the new Lynx Smart BMS, so that is off the table.
I have recently upgraded our existing off-grid installation to include the following:
1.5kW existing panels -> MPPT 100|20 48v -> 48v 400Ah battery bank
4.5kW new Jinko panels -> MPPT 150|100 -> same 48v 400Ah battery bank
Cabling is short and the voltage drop between the controllers and the battery bank is less than 0.01V. The two charge controllers are networked over bluetooth and each has the most recent firmware. However synchronizing the two controllers is a problem because the MPPT 150|100 is incorrectly reading a battery voltage 0.2V high, and hence moving from Bulk->Absorbtion->Float earlier than the smaller controller.
For example, the 100|20 status display may report a battery voltage of (say) 55.7V. This voltage can be confirmed via actual measurement at the 100|20 terminals, the 150|100 terminals, and also at the battery bank itself. However the 150|100 at this time instead reports 55.9V. As a result, the 100|150 switches up between charge modes prematurely (and presumably switches down late as the battery voltage falls), switching the larger panel array into Absorbtion while the small array continues to operate in Bulk. Accordingly, the larger solar array is effectively switched out before the batteries are fully charged leaving the small array to finish the task. Although this is unlikely to cause a problem in sunny days, the premature switching out of the larger array on overcast days does not permit full recharge of the batteries and to an extent defeats the intent of this upgrade. As a temporary workaround, I have set the 150|100 Absorbtion and Float voltages 0.2v high to compensate for the battery reading error which does seem to help, but I am unsure as to whether this may eventually contribute to cooking the batteries and do not see this as a permanent fix for this new device.
Has anyone else encountered this problem? Can the problematic 150|100 be recalibrated in the field? - or is this a matter that can only be fixed with a replacement controller?
Using VEconfigure and the MK3 attempting to connect to Multiplus 3000 I occasionally see a "Range check error" window appear and the connection attempt fails. What is "Range check error"?
I have a Multiplus II 48v 5KVA. When running but with the output isolated, Venus reports 53.53v and -0.7a, giving 37.47W standby power.
Clearly greater than the specified 21w standby power.
The reported current is incorrect, a clip on meter gives 397mA which would give the correct 21W standby power. It is disappointing to find such a large discrepancy on a quality product.
This causes problems with negative DC currents which have been discussed on numerous posts.
Is there any way to zero the current meter in this unit ?
I´m setting upp 2 pcs of Multiplus Compact 24/2000/50-30 for parallel operation. They don´t have identical firmware.
Victron Connect does not support the older one so I have to use VEFlash. Using an MK3.
Firmware older 2618152.
Firmware new 2618430.
Assuming I can update to identical version of firmware for both?
Which firmware is feasable?
Got a little confused when checking on firmware versions.
Thanks in advance.
My Multiplus 1600 has been working faultlessly for the last 4 and half years, but after putting it on yesterday, it cut out and the alarm led lit solid. Turned it off and on and after a couple of mins did the same thing. No flashing of error code, just straight to alarm on. Tried charging through shoreline connection and that worked fine. Put it to on after an hour of charging and within 20 mins it cuts out again. The manual states error codes for a flashing alarm led, but mine just goes straight to solid on. The voltage at the dc input terminals was 12.6v and I removed both ac input and output connections and it still cuts out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
is it possible to charge a Pylontech US2000 with a SmartSolar 150/50 ?
What do i need to make communication between Smartsolar and battery ?
I think the Manufacture should know about the type of RCD should be used for that particular product.
I'm currently building an RV off-grid system based around a Lithium Tesla Battery and MultiPlus. In the system is also a BMV 702, BatteryProtect 220 and Color Control.
As the Lithium Battery really doesn't like to be charged below freezing temperature I'm planning to have an automated heating pad that keeps the battery warm, but I would like to have a fail safe which disables the MultiPlus Charger whenever the temperature of the Battery reaches 5°C
My current setup is to connect the BMV-702 Temperature Control Sensor to the Battery and then connected the BMV-702 Relay to the MultiPlus AUX1 which controls the Charger via the Charge Assistant. This works nicely, but I was wondering:
1. The MultiPlus already has a Temperature Sense Connector plus the Temperature Sensor shipped, when I measure the voltage of the Temperature sensor I get a reading of 2.6V at 25°C. Is there any datasheet of the Temperature Sensor that I could use to configure the MultiPlus Assistant for temperature? I would really like to not depend on the BMV for the temperature measuring and best have the MultiPlus measure the temperature directly.
2. I found the new Shared Temperature Sense feature of the Venus/ColorControl: https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/2018/10/17/venus-os-v2-20-scheduled-charging-equalize-and-more/ which mentions:
the Venus-device will send the battery temperature to the connected Solar Chargers and Inverter/chargers.
But I don't see anything in the MultiPlus Configuration Screen to do anything with that Temperature or any other way that it actually receives the temperature form the Venus/ColorControl.
Plus just two other small questions:
1. Is there any way to see the current voltage reading on the MultiPlus AUX inputs? I'm having a bit a hard time to find the correct voltages to use in the Assistant
2. When I disable the Charger in the VEConfig all together, but then enable the Charger again via the Assistant based on the AUX1. The charger is actually running! That's a bit scary ;) Also which charge settings are used? I assume just the last settings of the charger before it was disabled all together?
I noticed something odd on the VRM Dashboard and wonder if it is bit of a temporary display glitch or is a setting somewhere?
Dashboard when I have my AC Source defined as Grid. (Generator shows the same.
[image]If I change the source designation to "Shore" I see the same screen in the main - but I get a new section (I highlighted in a red box) called "Input Current Limit"
Not sure why that appears only when AC In is "Shore"? or why it is 3.2A. The Watts in is actually around the 3.2A mark (230V input) but that is more coincidence I think.
The only setting I can think of that limits the AC current is within the Multiplus (an EasyPlus 12/1600 in my case) and that is set as 12.0A (see below - set at 12A as using a domestic plug).
[image]Any pointers to this odd 3.2A window? Would be a pain if that was actually 3.2A and stop me using anything of reasonably high power!
EDIT: Just turned on the Water Boiler (850W) and checked screen again ...
[image]It looks like the "Input Current Limit" actually shows the approximate AC current being pulled into the system, not an actual limit? and is fluctating as the battery charge current is dropping as approaching full.
So it is good that it is not limiting the current, but what is it meant to mean?
Could you please read the following, and help us to understand and avoid this issue in the future: We have Added three Inverters type Quattro 15Kva to our existing Solar system which was consisted of (6 )Inverters type Quattro 15Kva and (23) MPPT Solar Chargers controller Type (SmartSolar MPPT 250/100 ), we reconfigured the 9 inverters to work as 3 phase inverters ( 3 inverters for L1, 3 inverters for L2, 3 inverters for L3), and the system working for about 4 months without any problem, a few days ago all MPPT solar chargers stop working ( one of MPPT solar charger was burned, and 19 MPPT solar chargers not working and no led flashing, and 4 MPPT solar chargers not working and blue light flashing every 2 or 3 seconds.)
I need to know why these problems happened.
Please Know that the MPPT solar chargers voltage is ( absorption =55.2V,float=54V, equalization not active (disable ) ), but four months ago when we add the new 3 inverters (Quattro 15Kva ) and reconfigured the system, we forget to reduce the default setting of inverter charge voltage, so the inverters setting is ( absorption =57.6V,float=55.2V, equalization not active (disable )), is that configuration could cause the above problems ??.
Guys, there have been several request now cause there are numerous applications, where a user wants to switch devices based on the SoC, WITHOUT changing the discharge floor.
In my application, I want to use the BMV-700 relay to switch a large power relay to reverse IN/OUT of my Orion, to charge the starter battery as soon as the AUX battery SoC is above 95%. But in regards to the time-to-go, I want to leave the discharge floor at 25% (75% DoD).
I urge you to take these request into account when determining the scope of the next firmware update. Please !!