I've had a single period of about 8-10h in the last month where my Cerbo GX has been able to "see" the MPPT (SmartSolar 100/30). The Cerbo can see the SmartShunt just fine, and I have swapped the VE.direct cables to ensure that the cable is not the issue.
The evidence of the connection is only that I remember seeing a new "PV" icon appear in the bottom right hand side of the remote console, and that the VRM dashboard shows:
What can be done to diagnose this problem? My distributor has no idea, and referred me here. I have ssh access to the cerbo enabled - are there more verbose logs present there that I could pull?
Many thanks in advance!
When I turn off my Multiplus I expected the AC to pass through to AC OUT2. This is not the case. What do I need to change to make this happen?
Why the is no data next to the graph depicting last 24 hours.
I have been using the MPPT charge controller since July 2020 with no issues and it, in combination with my solar panel have kept my battery bank charged fully with no issues. Then I did a firmware update via the bluetooth to version 1.56 and it has never worked since. I took the controller back to the store on June 12 where I purchased it and they replaced it.
I installed the new one and I connected it to the batteries and PV and when I connected via bluetooth it performed a couple of mandatory updates one of which was to the version 1.56 firmware. This MPPT controller is behaving the same way and will not charge my batteries.
I performed a full test on the connections and inverter and everything is working flawlessly except for the charge controller.
Has anybody else had issues with this firmware, I have screen shots and the log file from the controller and will share if required.
How does the 3 output behave with only one battery connected? Is the total charge output divided among the three outputs regardless? For example if only one battery is connected to the 3 output model would it get a 30 amp charge or a 10 amp charge. If the output is divided can all three outputs be hooked up to one battery?
I have bought components which are not yet installed in a campervan conversion:
110ah leisure battery (wet bog standard):https://www.tayna.co.uk/leisure-batteries/enduroline/exv110/
380W JA Solar panel
Victron Smart Solar 100/30
Victron Orion tr Smart 12/12-30
I'm concerned about overcharging my leisure battery during the bulk phase of charging. Both the smart solar and orion will be connected to the battery in parallel. When driving on a hot day, I could be bulk charging the battery with 60a. I have no battery specs, so I gather general advice is to charge at a max of 0.2C or 20A. I see I can limit the output of the mppt, but the Orion will not limit current during the bulk phase. I gather the battery will utilise available current, especially when depleted.
I'm uncertain whether to buy the 18a Orion instead of the 30a. Even then, whether I need to switch between the mppt/ Orion so only one feeds the battery at a given time.
Or potentially whether the mppt could accept the Orion output and the solar as dual inputs, then I could limit the mppt output to 20a.
I realise opinions vary on the 'right' bulk charge rate for batteries, I just don't want to overheat the battery so I'd like to aim for approx 0.2c /20A.
I have 4 batteries connected for 24v 400ah bank, I need to know which voltage to use for a 50% discharge and 30% discharge, also which optimal float and charging voltage. If someone knows which charging parameters to use on that inverter, it will be appreciated.
I've recently installed the Orion-Tr Smart 12/12V-30A Non-Isolated DC-DC Charger between my starter battery and house Lithium. This is on a sailboat with shore power connected to the Blue Smart IP22 Charger 12V /30A connected to the starter battery as well. For testing purposes I've removed the starter battery from the circuit and set the Blue Smart to output 14.7v to the DC/DC charger.
The issue I am currently having is that the Blue Smart charges the battery without issue when connected directly to the house (not a long term solution) but the DC/DC charger will not charge at all. When connected to shore power the Blue Smart outputs without issue and I can see the input reading on the DC/DC is correct. However the DC/DC output reading briefly shows the house battery reading of 11.1v (its drained) and then cycles through the following
"Off - Charger is Disabled" - 5-10 seconds
"Off - Remote input inactive" 1-2 seconds
"Bulk Charge" - inconsistent and max 0.5 seconds
I've rewired the setup twice now and double checked the connections between the DC/DC and the main battery post (2 feet) as well as the shared negative and both are seated correctly. I've also removed the remote input jumper, unscrewed and reseated the wires, and double checked the volt reading at the output level wasn't fluctuating with a multimeter.
I've disabled engine start detection as i won't be starting the engine for some time.
Firmware version - DC/DC 1.0.6
It's probably worth noting that I have this setup because my starter is AGM and my house is Lifepo. Different charging profiles required this.
Unforutnately my distributor had no idea what to do in this case. Here is a short video of what i can see. Any help is much appreciated.
Hallo, ich habe einen Orion TR Smart 12 / 30 an der Lichtmaschine angeschlossen um meine 150 AH Liontron zu laden.
Mir ist jetzt mehrfach aufgefallen, dass der Orion nicht in die Absorptionsphase geht, obwohl die Batterie schon über 90% geladen wurde, anbei meine Settings:
Und hier die Angaben der Batterie:
I just installed a BMV-712. The Bluetooth function is not working. It’s not discoverable on my phone. The wired monitor seems to be fine. Is the Bluetooth generated from the shunt PCB and if so, could my shunt have a bad PCB?
I'm not able to find the right 3D drawing for MultiPlus 12/3000/120 on the Dimensions download page.
I see "Phoenix_Multiplus_12-3000_120-50_120-240V" but that seems very incomplete. It just has the front lights, switch and 4 pads. It is also less than 1MB.
Does anyone have a clear profile for the oasis firefly battery? Preferable someone with experience and knows it works over time.
I'll shortly be installing 5x Firefly Oasis G31 as my house bank, are there any plans to create a firefly specific profile for the following equipment?
- Phoenix Smart Charger 3+1 50A
- MPPT 150/60
Or can someone share the settings that they currenty use?
I have a 5kva Multiplus connected to a 48v 300Ah lead acid battery bank. There is a roughly 0.8v drop between what battery voltage the inverter sees as displayed on VeConfigure and actual battery voltage. E.g Multi reads 49v whereas battery reads 49.8v when measured with a multimeter at battery and inverter terminals.
I have connected the Voltage sense cables to the appropriate terminals but these seem to have no effect on the Multiplus' voltage readings. I even restarted the Multiplus a few times and no improvement in its voltage readings (still off)
The voltage sense terminals that fit into the Multiplus have ferrules about half inch long crimped on them - I am beginning to think I need longer ferrules?
There is no GX device or BMV in this config as it is a simple backup system. I need a reliable means to read the correct voltage as the low battery cutoff and absorb and float setpoints absolutely need an accurate reading.
Can someone shed some light on the intended functional purpose of the Voltage Sense wires on a Multi/Quattro?
Are you using it? If so, how/why?
The manual says loosely that it's "to make up for voltage losses across the wires".
With the volt sense wires connected or not connected, under minimal load or loads in excess of 100A, I've never seen any change in the reported voltage by the system.
This was true even before my installation of a BMV (with the lithium batts) and still so now, since SOC and voltage readings (I assume) are now coming exclusively from the BMV.
The voltage reported (by the BMV) is within .01 V of the voltage reported by the BMS on the batteries with minimal load, and within the expected 2-3% difference under heavy loads.
I'm using 2/0 (70ish mm cross section) wires and runs are around 10-13 ft to the batteries. The BMV is 5-7 ft to the shunt. 24V lithium system.
The lead-acid system prior was considerably sloppier, although still using 2/0 cable, and I still recall no differences.
I think that my MultiPlus II (48/3000/35) doesn't enter AES (neither if configured for search mode or modified sine wave), even if there aren't any loads connected to the output leads.
Is there an indication somewhere about the currently active AES mode? What I'm trying to do is to find it out based on input current on the shunt or measured with a dc clamp, and the output frequency/vrms in search mode.
This is what the Cerbo shows with all AC leads disconnected (and no dc consumers other than the Cerbo, the BMV and the Ve.BUS BMS).
And these are the values that I would expect, from the datasheet:
I have a Lithium ION battery install on a sailboat with tight space. Because of that, and because we do not need an inverter while out sailing, we went with Skylla-IP44 charger (instead of a MultiPlus) and a Cerbo GX to monitor the install.
However, the Cerbo GX does not recognize the Skylla-IP44. It is not in the list of available devices on the Cerbo GX. I've used RJ45 and terminators to connect one to the other as in the diagrams, and nothing (Pictures attached). I've also tried to update the firmware on the Cerbo remotely, but again, since the GX doesn't "see" the Skylla, I can't do it over the internet. I recently tried using the CanBus dongle and VEPower Setup to try to update the firmware of the Skylla, hoping that would fix the problem, but still nothing. VEPower Setup doesn't find the Skylla when searching for devices.
Please help! This situation is driving me crazy!!! I'd not have bought the Skylla-ip44 if I knew the Cerbo couldn't communicate with it.
I have a 3000w multiplus 120v, cerbo gx, 3x100ah lithium battery, 4/0 wire and a bmv712 battery monitor.
When I plug it to Shore power it ramdomly shutdown even with small load (less than 500w) and then restart by it self. Limit curent set to 30amp on 30amp outlet. It tried an other 15amp plug curent Limit set to 15amp or 10amp. No difference. Shutdown often.
Battery full, 20deg C, well ventilated area. All connections tight.
It works fine on battery inverter mode(no Shore power)
Charger only mode no shutdown at all.
Any idea? Thanks
Ran boat batteries (4 6V series/parallel) down below 12V, charged back up to 13V but SOC won’t register. I dis and re - connected but still doesn’t register. Solution? Thanks
We are live aboard Cruisers and I would like to be able to see, at a glance, the following battery information.
1. State of Charge
2. Current going to batteries (from various sources)
3. Current being used (services, water maker etc)
I would also like to have a daily total record of each of the above.
What set up do you recommend! At the moment I see no alternative to having 3x BMV shunts and their displays. Is there a neater solution available from Victron?
Victron multiplus 3,000 watt 12v inverter/charger
300 amps hours of battleborn Lithium batteries
850 watts of solar panels.
50/100 smart solar controller.
Two 15,000 btu A/C units with a microair easy start on the livingroom unit.
Honda EU2200 generator
Current limiting set to 17.5 amps
Battery bank at 100% in float or absorbtion mode
Multiplus set to on
Turn on Livingroom A/C unit
A/C runs fine and will have a little extra power to run a few lights, TV with a few amps going in the battery bank
Same as above but battery bank is just less then 100%
Inverter charger goes into bulk mode with 120 amps going in the battery bank.
A/C starts up and runs but multiplus is in assist mode and battery bank is draining fast.
Is there a setting that I can configure to not have this happen? Can I choose to give priority to the ac load and not the charger?
If I set it to inverter only there is no power comming in on the grid and the A/C is running only on battery.
I know that I could let the battery bank fully charge before I run the A/C but on a very hot day after a long drive and your RV is 102° F inside, you want to cool off as soon as possible.
I would need all of your specialist knowledge. A colleague is running the Victron Multiplus 2 in ESS mode, 10 lead-acid batteries were connected to it. We noticed that a pack (2 * 12V) is no longer in order and then removed it. In the Multiplus we have adjusted the battery capacity. Now it is, however, that he has been continuously discharging the batteries for 2 days without the excess PV power being charged into the batteries. Have I changed something in the settings?
im looking at the smart shunt 500a. In the fitting instructions it says this
" And similarly, there should be no other connections on the battery negative. Any loads or chargers here will not be included in the battery state of charge calculation."
does this mean that the battery negative terminal that the shunt connectes too cant go to a bus bar where all my chargers are also conected too.
It basically has to have its own grounding.
hope that makes sense.
I am about to install the 500A/50mV-Shunt to my self-made battery (LiFePo4) system and bought the correct temp sensor for the connection with Vbatt+ and Aux.
As I have connected my cells main positive to a copper strip (20x3mm) in order to be able to use bigger lugs (the battery cells only have M6), and the heavy duty lug on the temp sensor has a M10 hole, I was wondering where I should ideally connect it:
A, at the raw cells’ main positive
B, at the battery input of the main fuse, supplying it with power even when the fuse has blown.
C, at the fuse output, NOT supplying it with power, after the fuse has blown, but with a fitting M10 bolt. This is where I will connect the distribution bus bar with all my loads and chargers.
Also, I was wondering whether I could install a manual switch in the positive cable of the temp sensor, making it possible to turn off the shunt and prevent micro current in case I want to store the battery.
I have a Victron Smart Solar MPPT, BlueSmart IP65 and Orion-Tr in my setup. Am I understanding it correctly that the temperature sensor of the SmartShunt supplies all of these with the temperature reading when in the same network as the others, in order to optimize charging?
Thanks in advance for your answers!
P.S.: Of course, I have a BMS between the battery main negative and the shunt, I just didn’t draw it in the above scribble, as the temp sensor should be connected to the positive side, as shown in the manual.
Just installed in camper with 30amp service. Have not configured the multiplus other than changing battery type to lithium. Plugged into shore power and the batteries need charging and I have the AC running the multiplus reboots. There is a log recorded in the grid NS protection log as undervoltage.
Is there a way to program the multiplus when in this condition to send most of the power to the AC instead of the charger?
Client had an ET340 and then changed mind and got a single phase supply and replaced ET340 with a ET112.
I deleted the ET340 that "had not been seen in x days" from Device List, but it is still showing in Venus OS and the readings we're getting on VRM are bull:
Feed in is disabled, setpoint is 50W:
I have a 24/3000/70/120Multiplus and a Smart Solar 100/50CC paired with 2 Lifepo 12V 206AH batteries and a Honda 3000eu generator. My plan was to use the blue tooth function on the MPPT to monitor SOC via a iPad. It appears I need a battery monitor to properly maintain and monitor SOC with the lithium batteries. My question wth this system would one recommend the BMV 712 or the Smart Shunt 500A for battery SOC? Thank you. Cheers Greg..
why color control showing ac loads and critical loads when i only have loads connected on the ac1 output
The Fronius inverter is shown on the Venus but not on the VRM portal or it does in advanded but now in the overview
Above shows the Fronius and VRM portal below doesnt show it :
but in theVRM portal i see following in Advanced :
and here it's not shown :
What could be the reason ?
I installed the BMV 712 yesterday for the first time to a 100Ah Lithium battery. The monitor worked great and displayed 13.5 volts for the last two days. I also installed the smart solar MPPT 75/15 and everything was working fine.
Tight I noticed there was no power on the monitor. When I checked my battery with a meter it said 1.9 volts. When I shut off my master switch the battery read 13 at the battery so it’s not that. Could the BMV be faulty?
All the connections are the same and there are no loads on the system. The only thing attached is the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/15.