I have Installed 3 Phase Multiplus II System with and everything is working fine.
I using 6 x Pylontech 2000 it s working fine. But now i want to add another 4 x Pylontech 2000.
I have 300 Ah thats + 200 Ah I write the new number into the multiplus ok.
How do i make the bus connection and the jumper adjustment?
since the cerbogx does not recognize the pylontech 2000 with the recommended adjustments from the pylontech 2000 manual.
Apologies if this is a dumb question, but is there any reason not to directly link the two battery negative posts with a short cable rather than linking through busbars as shown on the various Victron circuit diagrams.
I ask because my batteries are co-located and it would just be simpler.
Ich bin noch ganz am Anfang, was Erfahrung mit Solar und Victron angeht.
Deshalb bitte ich Euch hier um Hilfe - und entschuldigt bitte, wenn Euch die Frage zu trivial ist.
Ich habe ein sehr einfaches setup:
12V lifepo 30ah batterie und Smart Solar MPPT 75/15.
Batterie konfiguriert als lifepo mit 12V.
Ansonsten alles default gelassen.
Für einen ersten Test mit einem 100W Panel die Batterie voll geladen.
Am Lastausgang des SmartSolar hatte ich 2x 20W Halogen-Lampe als kräftige Verbraucher angeschlossen.
Meine Rechnung war grob: 30ah bei 12V sind etwa 360Wh.
Bei etwa 40W sollte das für 9h - also eine Nacht - reichen.
Über Nacht hatte ich die Verbraucher eingeschaltet gelassen, um zu sehen, was die Batterie für eine Kapazität hat.
Am nächsten Morgen zeigte mir die App: Batterie min: 0,07V.
Jetzt meine Frage(n):
War die Spannung wirklich auf 0.07V gesunken?
Kann bei einer solch tiefen Spannung das SmartSolar überhaupt noch Daten schreiben?
Sollte das SmartSolar nicht dafür sorgen, dass es zu keiner Tiefentladung kommt?
Ist meine Batterie jetzt etwa non reversible kaputt?
Was kann ich tun, um eine Tiefentladung zu verhindern?
Ich dachte, der SmartSolar würde das tun.
Vielen Dank vorab.
I have a BMV-712 connect to 2xVictron Super Cycle batteries, today my monitor started reporting an incorrect battery voltage of 0.02 or 0.03V. This is on both the device itself and the android app (via bluetooth), nothing has changed in my system except for taking a firmware update on the app.
I've checked the voltage with a meter and its reading 13.08 from the shunt to my fuse where the power supply for the BMV is located. I also unscrewed the inline fuse and looks to be intact, just to be sure i checked the voltage from the end of the fuse to the shunt and again was 13.08V so seems to definitely be a software / device issue? I've done a number of factory resets without any joy always just displays the .02V after the reset.
Kind of out of ideas here and would welcome suggestions.
We have noticed that our voltage drops under 10 so the low voltage alarm goes off. This never happened 2 months ago, but now it is happening more and more. When this problem first occurred, it happened when the battery level was around 20%, but it is coming earlier and earlier. The two last times the low voltage alarm starts when the battery is at 31% , and the voltage seems to be low.
But why does this happen? and why is it coming earlier and earlier?
ich versuche eine kleine Eigenversorgungsanlage bei begrenztem Platz in der Stadt aufzubauen.
Multiplus II 12/3000, Cerbo Gx, MPPT 150/75, Bluetooth Batterie - Spannungs - und Temperatursensor, ET340, testweise Batterie Liontron 12,8 V 200 Ah BMS. 4 x Canadien solar 370 Wp in 2 Strängen parallel.
Einstellungen sind Eigenverbrauch, Überschusseinspeisung bis maximal 600 Watt, Zielwert 50 W.
Das Gridmeter (Einstellung AC-Loads) erfasst auf 3 Phasen korrekt den Stromverbrauch. Es wird jedoch kein Strom aus der Batterie entzogen. Es werden auch keine AC - Lasten angezeigt.
Netz hängt am Multiplus an AC in.
Bei kritischen Lasten stehen immer nur 13 W, wahrscheinlich Eigenverbrauch des Systems. Zudem wird, selbst wenn Sonne auf den Panelen steht, sobald die Batterie auf 100 % geladen ist keine PV - Leistung angezeigt, maximal 12 - 20 Watt, obwohl vielmehr kommen müsste.
Wo könnte hier der Fehler sein ?
I'm at the very beginning of my experience with solar energy and Victron.
That's why I ask you for help here - and apologize if the question is too trivial for you.
I have a very simple setup:
12V lifepo 30ah battery and Smart Solar MPPT 75/15.
Battery configured as lifepo with 12V.
Otherwise everything left by default.
For a first test with a 100W panel the battery was fully charged.
Street light function activated (or always on?).
At the load output of the SmartSolar I had connected 2x 20W halogen lamp as a powerful consumer.
My calculation was rough:
30ah at 12V is about 360Wh.
At about 40W, this should be enough for 9h - one night.
Overnight, I had left the consumers on to see what capacity the battery has.
The next morning the app showed me: Battery min: 0.07V.
(see the attached screenshot)
Now my question(s):
Had the voltage really dropped to 0.07V?
With such a low voltage, could the SmartSolar still write data itself?
Should the SmartSolar not ensure that there is no deep discharge?
Is my battery now non-reversible broken? What can I do to prevent deep discharge?
I thought the SmartSolar would do prevent that.
Thank you in advance for your help.
I have a 3400wp PV system with enphase iq7 inverters connected to the grid. Now I would like to install a backup power system so that in case of a grid failure, my freezer will keep on working and I am able to charge some small devices with this 'local grid' also I was planning to hook up the envoy controller for the iq7 inverters to this local grid so they keep working in case of a grid failure.
I just bought a multiplus compact 1600 as this was more than enough for my freezer and some extras. Now I read about the factor 1 rule and I am not sure if this was the right multiplus model. The loads of consuming devices will not be much, but the PV system is rated double the 1600Va of the multiplus.
In the normal situation the multiplus with battery will be in between the local grid, with the PV installation, and the main grid. Meaning all PV generated power goes through the multiplus right? Will this work or do I need to think of a different setup?
Thanks in advance!
I have installed the following off-grid system, which has been working pretty good for one year.
However I'm wondering if the behavior I see when I plug a 1200W water heater during the central hours of the day is expected.
As you can see from following graphs the battery voltage drops when load is active and jumps back to an higher value afterwards.
Reading other posts on this subject I've got this is expected indeed, but my question is: do I have to worry about this voltage drop? In other words: should I power on the AC generator if the battery voltage goes down to 46V like in the picture below?
Thanks a lot,
First of all I want to say how happy I'm that I bought my first Victron product and entered a new world.
Since years I know the blue products but I never knew that they have venus OS. The VRM portal and sooo much more.
Thank you guys!
But of course some questions. I have several systems in Germany and Gambia.
On my weekend camp I have a small system with cheap chinese crap and I just added one victron BMV700 and changed that into a smart installation.
I'm running Venus OS Large on a PI3. I feed the portal via a mobile connection with 64KB speed, the required bandwidth is absolutely ok for the victron data.
Now I can control everything in direction battery. At night I even can measure the consume of a single bulb or a radio inside my caravan, even it is just one Watt. The shunt works so precise, really impressing.
What I would like to have of course is, also to have control over the PV input, or my total DC load.
So I'm thinking about a second shunt. Either another BMV700 or a "smart shunt". I read here in the forum that it is possible to declare a second shunt as DC load, so that Venus OS is not doing no calculations on the receiving data. Just measure V and A and done! Would be great.
I could place the second shunt so that it measures the input coming from the charge controller. Or is it better to place it at the exit in direction inverter/DC load of my caravan?
The missing value in both cases I could calculate inside a flow within RedNode. I've created already some flows for my mobile where I display the for me most important data of the system.
I know that this way I cannot see the losses of the system which I would see if I would use a victron inverter (as AC load). But maybe is even better not to see the loss ;-)
Would the DC load be displayed inside the vrm portal?
If I would buy a "smart shunt" with bluetooth, could the connection to the PI3 base on bluetooth (like this fantastic roovi tags, currently I'm using 4 of them).
Or I have to use a USB VE cable like the connection to the BMV700?
I have another question regarding the BMV700. I'm using sealed acid batteries and observed that after the system reports a full charge still a lot of current goes in direction batterie.
And also another effect, every morning the SOC suddenly jumps to 100%. I saw that one can adjust that inside the setup (which has to be done on the BMV, it has some buttons which allows one to change several settings).
I read here in the forum that one should set another value there, some even set it to 14.4. So the manual recommends a value bit smaller than that.
So which value is best for sealed acid?
Thanks for advice!
Sorry for the niche question, but has anyone found a marine battery tray (plastic or Stainless) to tie down a Victron 200ah Smart LifePo4 battery on their boat.
Having trouble sourcing one that fits.
I have got the Victron 100/20 and two Varta batteries of the type: 840 095 085 C54 2
II was wondering which of the battery preconfigurations would be the best for my batteries.
Right now the standard preconfiguration "victron deep discharge(2)" is selected, because I have not changed anything in the settings yet.
ich habe einen Multiplus 2 mit einem UC3000 - soweit alles gut. Gestern habe ich meinen UC2000 erhalten. Muss den irgendwie im Multiplus anmelden / einstellen oder erkennt der Multiplus das von alleine?
I recently installed the Bluetooth battery monitor in my travel trailer that is using two 100 ah lead acid batteries. I’ve found the aH counting to be fairly accurate but for some reason the voltage shown on the monitor and app are much lower than true voltage. The victron solar charger I have shows the correct 13.8-14.2v when plugged in and charged but the battery monitor shows 11.04 this morning and down to 9v during the same timing as checking the solar charger. Any ideas how to remedy? I’ve replaced the fuse with a new waterproof fuse holder
We have a grid tied 10kw pv system... to date we have used just whatever produced power was available at the time without any storage or harvesting.
Due to the horrific jumps in energy cost we would love to harvest the energy to batteries, also we thought to take the low night rate available to boost the batteries while we sleep.
Is there an AC connected device that we could use without going to the large expense of a Powerwall or similar... I was struggling to find a device on here?
Also just to add to this.... I have a stack of little used motive batteries (lead/acid) left from a job, I know these don't compare to Li-ion but I have them so essentially they are free gratis... will any of the inverter charges be able to link to them?
Many thanks, Craig