I just bought 3 x 12.8v 160AH victron batterys, sold as 'good'.
Two are indeed fine, and I've connected them (separately) to a BMS 12/200 as they haven't been used for a while, to re-charge & re-balance.
The 3rd however is reading 9.8v, and the BMS won't allow it to charge, presumably a low voltage protect.Is it dead? or could I try applying a normal charger, to try & boost the voltage above the low voltage limit?I'm guessing its dead, but I told the seller I'd see if anything could be done.
Also, I can't seem to find any info specific to this battery on the Victron website, just the smart batteries, which look a little different, so could someone tell me more about this battery? ie, is it a 'Smart Battery'? I guess its an older, non-smart one, but I'm not sure.
Also, does it have a BMS built in? so I can just charge it with any charger? or do I always have to use the BMS 12/200?
One more thing :) does that mean it doesn't have the bluetooth monitoring?
If thats the case, is a BMV700 the best kind of monitoring system?
Basically, I have one working system in a camper, with bms12/200, which is great, but doesn't have any monitoring yet, and I'm looking to build a second, larger one, with solar, and monitoring for both.
Thanks in advance.
I have LiFePO4 battery cells which are all at the following levels -
3.30 - 3.26 - 3.22 - 3.26
could this be genuine imbalance or cell damage?
I have twelve new 110AH Victron Gel batteries for a 660AH 24V battery bank, I'm keen to look after them carefully! The bank is charged either by solar via a MPPT 100/50 or a Victron Multiplus 24V 3000W 70A.
I am about to store my boat onshore in Greece for the winter (6-7 months). What is the best way to leave my Gel batteries powered with the MPPT or Multiplus? I ask because I note the Multiplus has a storage mode whereas the MPPT does not.
Hello, I’m looking at purchasing the Victron Quattro 8kW inverter or similar and running it with a Battleborn battery setup. Can you recommend what will work best as far as 12v 100 amp or 24v 50 amp and series or parallel setup? Maybe another model invertor might be better? I’m basically using it as a backup over night (not to run gas generator)..possibly longer if major outage. It will be used for 2 refrigerators, furnace and hot water tank fan, some lighting and most likely a single burner induction or small toaster oven so between 4000-6000 kw in future if I decide to upgrade or add more lighting or devices. Thankyou for any advice you can provide Mik
We are building a 48V system with 25.6V/200Ah legacy batteries (BAT524120410). As these are no longer available, we would like to extend the system with the ones recently introduced (BAT524120610). Do these batteries have the same internal resistance? Is there any reason why the two types shouldn’t be connected in parallel?
My battery bank is 24 OPZS bats (with goes up to 56V) i bought another bank of 11OPZS (24V) is there any way / possibility to hook it up or do i need more batteries to make both banks 56v?
My old bank is 130a per battery, new bank is 350a per battery.
I just bought a Multiplus II 48v/50VA and tried to do the setup via VictronConnect. I connected power to AC-in and had no connection in AC-out-1 and AC-out-2.. I didn’t connect it to batteries (they have not arrived yet). When I switched the Multiplus to ON, it stayed powered on (with Low Battery LED on) for a few seconds and then tripped my 32A circuit breaker. When I switched it on as charger (Main LED flashed), it also tripped my circuit breaker after a few seconds.
The manual doesn’t mention whether the MPII can be powered up without battery connection but I found this video (at 1:27) mentioned that it can be powered up either via AC-in or battery.
Howerer, it seemed that it is not the case from what I got.
Can a MPII actually not be powered up solely via AC-in? If it is the case, where can I find the related documentation. Or, there is some problem with my new MPII?
ich habe mir den Victron 500A/50mV - SmartShunt gekauft und möchte diesen in meinem Wohnmobil einsetzen.
Aktuell habe ich zwei Batterien parallel geschaltet, an denen der Verbraucher am negativen Pol einer Batterie und am positiven Pol der anderen Batterie angeschlossen ist.
Den Verbraucher habe ich einfach als BlackBox dargestellt.
Nun habe ich aus der beiliegenden Anleitung versucht den SmartShunt-Aufbau auf meine Gegebenheiten abzuleiten. So möchte ich die negative Leitung meines Verbrauchers an "Load Minus" anschließen und "Battery Minus" am Minuspol der Batterie. Da in diesem Fall wohl Bilder mehr als Worte sagen habe ich versucht das zu visualisieren:
Wäre mein Aufbau soweit richtig?
Gehe ich richtig mit der Annahme, dass dieser Aufbau beide Batterien misst, ich durch den parallelen Aufbau also quasi beide Batterien als eine Batterie interpretieren kann?
Beide Batterien sind auf 12v ausgelegt, sodass die Parallelschaltung diese 12v beibehält.
Vielen Dank im Voraus
Mit freundlichen Grüßen
There are currently 12 cells connected. I have a total of 22 intact cells. 2 cells are missing to make the 24v set complete.
Can I put 2x11 in parallel so the voltage would be 22v instead of 24v? The battery size would increase from 225Ah -> 450Ah. It does not matter if the battery cannot be completely discharged.
What settings need to be changed?
About the system:
* Multiplus 2 24 3000va
* Gerbo gx
* Smart battery shunt.
* Mk3 USB
* Battery 225Ah Tubular plate Traction (22 x 2v cells)
* Alongside the battery are Maxwell BOOSTCAP® ultracapacitors to take out the sharpest spikes.
* ESS is enabled
I have a BMV-712 connect to 2xVictron Super Cycle batteries, today my monitor started reporting an incorrect battery voltage of 0.02 or 0.03V. This is on both the device itself and the android app (via bluetooth), nothing has changed in my system except for taking a firmware update on the app.
I've checked the voltage with a meter and its reading 13.08 from the shunt to my fuse where the power supply for the BMV is located. I also unscrewed the inline fuse and looks to be intact, just to be sure i checked the voltage from the end of the fuse to the shunt and again was 13.08V so seems to definitely be a software / device issue? I've done a number of factory resets without any joy always just displays the .02V after the reset.
Kind of out of ideas here and would welcome suggestions.
Got 2 x 90ah Victron Smart LiFePO4 in series, then parallelled to 2 x Sterling 100Ah LiFePO4 that are also seriesed, so a 190Ah 24 system. At 2am I got a warning "low voltage alarm" on the BMV.
Looking on bluetooth, it showed the voltage in a single cell in one of my Victron batteries had collapsed. It was down to 0.2V (!!!) but seems to have recovered during the night, to 1.71v.
I immediately broke the series connection between the 2 x Victron batteries, therefore isolating them.
I confirmed the bluetooth with a multimeter, it showed the same battery voltage.
Is this battery with the low cell shot?
This is the battery with the low cell:
These are the notices:
This is the other "good" Victron battery:
Really, any advice will be appreciated.
I am studying Victrons documents on wiring, really good info. Regarding battery balancing I came across this page explaining how to make sure you can use one balancer for several strings of battery pairs:
My question is, how many strings can one balancer handle? If I have 10 strings of two 75Ah AGM batteries per string, can I then connect all midpoints and use only one balancer to keep them all balanced? How about 16 strings, which my battery bank have?
I am at the moment on the fence about whether to buy one victron balancer or import 16 chinese balancers so I would have one balancer per string.
Hi @all, i just arrieved on a shady camping pitch and after approx. 3 days my 120ah agm battery reached 50%.time to plug in the ip65 charger.
The battery was fully charged quickly.
Now the question, do i leave the charger in charging mode as, or is it recommended to switch to power supply mode?
I figured out that everytime my fridge turns on, a new charging cycle start until battery is back to 100%. I wonder now, how this effects battery lifetime.
As i switched to power supply, the battery is discharging to a certain point i do not know yet.
What should be the proper setup regarding voltage?
Hello! I have a battery bank with these batteries in series. How do I set up the BMV-712 to monitor all of them? I am guessing to set it up as if there were two batteries, using the first and last. Is this right?
Are there any portable battery boxes something like this https://www.bcf.com.au/p/engel-series-2-smart-battery-box/566666.html?cgid=BCF0270#start=2 that can work with a Victron 12/200Ah LiFePO4 battery? Looking for a portable power bank solution with at least 200Ah storage. Something no more than 25kg that can still be carried when required.
We are swtiching battery bank from BYD to Pylontech, and under "System setup" page of GX50, the name still shows BYD, not change to Pylontech. And under "Device List>Device", it shows connected "YES", does anyone who can help?
I'm busy thinking about changing to lithium batteries.
There is a lot of choice out there.
Pylon is very popular and they make many claims about life and performance - does anyone have any real-world experience especially in the victron ecosystem?
Victron LiFEPO4 also look good but are way more expensive and on paper have a less exciting set of specs and guarantee.
Paper and practice aren't the same thing, so I have much more confidence victron would deliver what is promised. (You also need at least two for a 48V inverter).
Thoughts and comments welcomed.
I have a Multiplus 2 with a Cerbo GX. We are offgrid without a generator.
We would like to heat up our boiler, but only after the battery is fully charged. So on our surplus energy
I've thought the "output 2" from the multiplus would do excactly this.
Use all additional energy if battery is charged. But it seems i got this wrong. And that that is only triggered when you have other electricity coming in (not solar but grid/generator)
If Grid/generator is on > use Output 2.
If only battery/solar comes in > don't use Output 2
If battery is fully charged > use Output 2.
If battery is not charged > don't use Output 2
Am I correct to think I understood the feature of Output 2 wrong?
And does anyone know how to achieve this what we need?
Thanks a lot!
Optionally: In this video you can see our full setup
I am electricity-ignorant. I want to know if using a 2000w electric kettle with a Victron 3000va can damage my batteries (4 Lithium 12.8v) or other parts of the system. Thanks.
Hi everyone! I have set up a system with a Multiplus-II 24/3000/70-32 connected to a battery bank made out of 32 UPLUS AGM batteries (data sheet below), 75Ah each. I have two Epever MPPT regulators feeding the battery bank with PV power and mains connected but only used when higher demand or low battery pre-alarm is present via the virtual switch.
I want to configure the charger correctly for this setup to get most out of the batteries and not harm them. My typical daily loads are very low, around 200W, but now and then when using tools or equipment up to 5000w for shorter periods of time. In the future I will add a small electric boiler for hot water and a heat pump for heating/AC.
This is the datasheet for the exact batteries I use:
This is my current settings page for the charger:
I would appreciate any reflections of whether my settings are suitable or not. I don't have very much experience configuring these systems.
If I look to my statistics in VRM on 30 days there is a big difference between how many power that comes from or go’s to the battery. In my opinion this difference can only be as large as my battery size.
setup: multiplus II go 48/5000 , 6 x Pylontech 2000 battery and a mppt 450/100
We have a two alternator 12V system, 1 for traction (capacity unsure) and one for leisure/house batteries (500Ah). For clarity this is a narrowboat fitted with a Nanni 43hp diesel. Both alternators are run off the crankshaft, via different pulleys.
Historically we have had battery charging issues and are considering a DC-DC connection (Orion) to allow the traction alternator output to be made available to the leisure batteries.
Does anybody have any dual alternator schematics? All the standard Victron offerings are for single alternator systems.
For completeness we are also considering solar panels with MPPT charge control.
i have 2 batteries. One is connected to the body at a point that I cannot change and cannot reach. The second is under the seat and there on the body.
With battery 2 I connected the SmartShunt directly to the minus pole. Both batteries are directly connected to the positive pole.
The shunt now of course shows all values halved. Can I use software, hardware (change resistance) or VRM, for example, to get the shunt to simply double the values?
Unfortunately, as I said, I can't get the wiring of the negative poles, so I can't create a common negative pole to connect the shunt.
Hello everyone, I am almost confuse about to monitoring 3 MPPT Smartolar charge controllers that we are going to connect to the Cerbo GX. Because the solar installation is more than 20 years old, "unfortunately" we have 3 string of solar panels connected with 3 battery banks and after by schottky diodes to the load (MM.WW. system), but we can´t optimize the banks because the space of each one is limited to joint them on one battery bank. for that reason we should monitor each MPPT Charge controller separately. Is it possible to monitor each MPPT (PV power, BAT power and load consume) or each MPPT should be connected to a GX device?.
Thanks for your support.
Jonathan Carrasco from Chile
Hi, I'm currently in the process of building a 3kwp pv system. Im not sure how many batteries I will need. The batteries need to be either 12v or 24v if possible. Thankyou.
I just can't figure this out and it's driving me nuts. There are similar posts but never a working solution?
I have two 6v Golf Cart batteries connected in series. 230 Ah. System settings and wiring below.
Victron reports 10.4 amps used, and says that's 97.2% of 230 amps. (is that not 95.4%?)
But when you take their 97.2% of 230, that SHOULD BE 6.44 Amps used?
HOW DOES THAT WORK?! What am I missing here?
What I've done:
- Fully charged the batteries to 100%.
- I then let them let sit for 2 days to stabilize voltages (Completely disconnected all power leads - only thing connected was the BMV 712 - just the little power wire)
- Battery read 12.8v after the two days (The little BMV power wire was still connected)
- I did as the manual states to set zero current:
A zero current calibration is (almost) never needed. Only perform this procedure in case the battery monitor shows a current while you are absolutely sure that there is no actual current flowing. The only way to be sure of this, is to physically disconnect all wires and cables connected to the side of the shunt. Do this by unscrewing the shunt bolt and remove all cables and wires form that side of the shunt. The alternative, which is switching off loads or chargers, is NOT accurate enough as it does not eliminate small standby currents.
- To me, it should not matter the state of the battery when you set Zero Current?
(There is NO current flowing as the battery is disconnected)
Can someone explain it like I'm 5? LOL
So far everything else seems to work like it should, but I'm still confused as to what my battery state really is?
Battery reports full when I believe it to be from the converter (and also the MPPT charger on the solar reports the battery to be full as well)
At the VERY LEAST, what is more accurate, the percentage, the amps used or the voltage?
(So far, I've been following Amps and watching the Voltage reading and trying to make an educated guess that way) Voltage will read 12.1v when the percent still reads in the low 70's? Is that not empty? So confused :(
To me the percentage is so far out of wack that it make ZERO sense. This battery monitor DOES NOT help me monitor my batteries :(
The battery is manufactured by East Penn MFG also called (DEKA) its a GC15.
Two batteries connected in series will be 230Ah. (130Ah useable)
- Reserve Capacity at 25A is 448 Minutes
- RC at 75A is 120 minutes
- The Peukert’s coefficient for most use cases for this battery is 1.24
What is the recommended Bulk, Absorb, Float, Equalize and maintainer parameters?
- Bulk charge to 2.35 volts per cell and hold for Absorption. (14.1v for two in series)
- Float charge at 2.25 volts per cell. (13.5v for two in series)
- To compensate for battery temperature not at 20°C:
- subtract 0.005 V/cell for each 1°C above 20°C;
- add 0.005 V/cell for each 1°C under 20°C.
- An Equalization charge can be done at 15.5 volts.
Max bulk charging current is <=30A per 100 Ah (C20). So for this 230 Ah battery, that's 69 amps. (If charging a pair in series, it's still 69 amps.)
Hello, i want to integrate the Color Control GX with my sodium batteries (Fiamm 48TL200), but, unfortunately the Collor Control GX does not support this batteries BMS, i want to develop the support. There's some tutorial or some kind of documents i can use to do this integration?
Je viens vers vous car je n'arrive pas à trouver réponses sur le branchement optimal de batteries.
Matériel : 2 batteries 200Ah avec 1 BMS sur chaque batterie, 1 Lynx Power In
Besoin : Rester en 12V, donc pas de branchement en série. Ça, c'est fait.
Par conséquent, il ne reste que deux possibilités : en parallèle ou en indépendant ( chaque batterie est connectée au Lynx ).
Mes questions :
Mieux vaut-il connecter en parallèle pour obtenir les 400Ah, ou, et c'est ici que ça se corse : connecter chaque batterie en indépendant + et - sur le Lynx ( 2 câbles pour chaque batterie ) ?
Si l'on fait de cette manière ( 2 batteries indépendantes sur le Lynx ), quelle est la valeur des Ah, 200Ah ou quand même 400Ah ?
Si l'on connecte 2 batteries de différents Ah en indépendant sur le Lynx, exemple avec 1 batterie 200Ah et 1 batterie 100Ah, les ampères s'additionnent pour obtenir au total 300Ah ?
Est-ce réalisable ?
Si l'on connecte en parallèle 2 batteries, que les batteries sont de même Ah, mais ne sont pas du même fabriquant ou du même lot, j'ai lu que ceci engendrera des risques d'usure prématurée, est-ce correct ?
Je vous remercie de m'avoir lu déjà et je me réjouis de vos réponses écarlates.
I have had a simple grid-tied 5kW PV system for some years.
I have recently added 3 x RedFlow ZBM2 batteries, which means a total of 30kWh, but an available usable 20kWh at any instant (allowing for maintenance strip cycle of these batteries).
I want to reserve 4kWh for my own grid-failure backup use, and export the additional 16kWh to the grid each night. I have rooftop capacity for charging the batteries.
Once the system is configured to export this additional 16kWh to the grid each night, I will know how many more batteries to install, with the ultimate goal of exporting 5kW (1Ø household limit) to the grid constantly, day and night.
As far as I can tell, I have had all the necessary hardware installed, including:
So far, the system is working correctly, charging the batteries, and providing backup power for the house, but the additional grid export is not happening yet, and I'll make the system available to the utility for FCAS once I've sorted the export out. I have not yet seen any additional grid export at all - my usual daily averages of 35kWh production / 21kWh consumption have continued unchanged.
Any suggestions for getting the additional export from the batteries happening?