If the IP-22 has outputs connected to the both the starter and the house bank, what happens when the banks are connected, for example using a 1, 2, All switch, an emergency-parallel switch or an ACR?
I have a 1,2,All switch. If I'm connected to shore power I want both batteries to get charged even when the switch is off. I'm going to get rid of the switch and replace with separate switches for each battery and either add an ACR or an Orion TR-Smart 12/12 DC/DC charger.
With an ACR I assume you can connect a single charger output to either bank (which one is optimal?) and the ACR will close the circuit so the other bank gets charged. Does this make sense?
But what if I choose use an Orion instead of an ACR? The reason would be to get a better charging profile than the alternator alone can provide and also keep a steady voltage to protect equipment. Is this a common use case? Anyway, if I go this path then the charger needs to be connected on the starter side because the Orion only works in one direction. But the efficiency is 87% so which means a loss of 13%. In this case it would be nice if the IP-22 can be connected to both banks. The Orion also needs to cope with a charge voltage on both sides.
We have a Multi Plus compact 12/2000/80-50 120v. Few questions:
-Can we disable automatic inverting upon AC disconnect?
-Can we reduce or set a limit on the battery charge mode current?
My IP67 12/25 charger cannot keep a Lithium battery at constant flow/storage voltage. So the battery is permanently discharging and charging again. The problem is varying voltage drop in the chargers wires due to varying DC loads on the boat.
The problem would be solved if the IP67 charger could compensate for voltage drop. Unfortunately sensing battery voltage via VE.smart bluetooth network seems to be currently out of reach, which is disappointing.
My idea to overcome the problem is adding a feature to raise the chargers output voltage as a function of current. On my installation a voltage compensation of 15mV/A would be necessary. It would be great if Victron could add a user configurable setting for compensating voltage drop in mV per A of output current.
Hi all. I have a boat from 1997 with a Victron charger that is marked as a Pallas 12v 50a. I have searched high and low and cannot find a manual. I want to adjust the equalization and float voltage but not sure which potentiometer is which. I can find a manual for a Pallas TG 12/50 but that appears totally different from what is inside our charger. I did once find a manual for an old inverter charger, I believe it was a Titan and the charger bit appeared close to what we have but I cannot find this manual again. Our Pallas charger has 4 tiny potentiometers in two groups of two on the top of the circuit board that is fixed to the opening front panel. Any help gratefully received. Many thanks.
I would like to know if we can use a centaur charger as 12V power supply without batteries. This is for a boat..
It is ok? or it will cause the charger to oscillate output voltage? someone have tested? or used as power supply?. I didn't see anything about this on the manual.
I'm going to install an IP65 charger to my system because ad the moment I can't recharge the battery from Orion, we are in lockdown. The question is, do I need to connect the positive to the Victron lithium battery and the negative to the smart shunt or both to the battery? In which order or doesn't matter? Unfortunately, I can't drop the car at the auto electrician's and my 12v knowledge is about zero and I'm desperate.
I've tried to dig into all questions and answer but it seems that my question is never asked before.
If the opposite please my apologise from now. Please send me the link of the previous post.
I'm moving from gel battery to DIY LiFePo4 batteries.
I've just bought a new charger, the Multiplus 12/3000/120.
I've already installed on board BMV712 and Venus OS on a Raspberry Pi3
When I'm in the marina, connected to the shore power, I would like to charge the battery up to 85% of their capacity and switch off the charger, but continue to use the shore power and the inverter if necessary (power off, more energy etc). Then switch ON again the charger at 40% of the batteries capacity.
As I can see the phisical remote can have only Charger ON or Charger/Inverter ON or all OFF.
I see that using the relay of my BMV712, at 85% of the capacity I can open/close the contact and with another bigger relay cut the shore power off, and on again at 40%. But with this setup when the shore power is off I shall would use only the inverter.
Is there any possibility to switch off only the charger function and keep the shore power?
I am running firmware v485, and my EasyPlus is attached to a 200Ah LiFeP04 battery with on board BMS.
I am testing the system in lab before final installation and I noticed this behaviour.
I lightly discharge the battery using the inverter, let's say to 13.09V
The I attach the mains and the charging starts. First the bulk phase kicks in at 50A
Then it soon enter the absorption phase and current decreases:
Suddenly the Inverter and Charger switches off without any warning or errors. It comes back online after few seconds.
It then enter again insto absorption phase where it stays permanently at 98% drawing 0A
I have tried the above with and without AC loads connected but it's alway the same. The EasyPlus kind of "restart" during the current ramp down of the absorption charge and reconnect staying in absorption at 0A and 98% forever.
i running a ESS (MultiGrid 48/3000 FW459, VenusGX FW v2.31with EM24) with AC Coupled third party PV Inverters (via ET340 and ET112) and a Smart Solar 150/35 v1.39 and a BYD B-Box 5.0kWh. (DVCC enabled, SVS disable, Smartsolar has BMS controlled)
The DC Coupled PV system is oriented south and could be enlarged by approx 900 Wp, since currently only 1,8kWp is installed. Maximum charge power to battery is limited at 2000W fixed due to the 35 Amps - i know ;).
In the ESS Settings I enable " Feed-in excess solar charger power" but soon i discovered the the typical behavior of the system was to charge from the East oriented AC Coupled inverters, which means, the the battery is full, sincce there is enough excess. But the south orientated DC coupled PV System was dearted by over 50% due to battery being at SOC 100%, even with the enable option of "feedin excess DC Power". Over have of the production of the south oriented DC coupled PV is derated (see pic attached, redline is potential solar production).
To prove my hypotheses i changed the ESS Setpoint to activly discharge the battery into the grid, thus a lower SOC than 100% is realized. this enables the BMS controlled Smart Solar to use the full potential of the PV system. (previously 340W production goes up to 900W Production).
See my screenshots and notes
I presume that the Mutligrid doesnt discharge/feedin as much power as the full potential of solar available on the DC side.
I would presume that the voltage Gap between SmartSolar and Multiplus isn't high enough for Multi to discharge the battery more but to keep it at 100% and though making it possible for the SmartSolar to feedin more of his potential solar power.
So propably i will not add any more Modules to the Smart Solar or install another SmartSolar, but install another PV Inverter AC coupled.
If anybody has the same Issue please let me know!
If anybody has an idea how to optimize the use of the DC coupled Solar to feed into the grid, please let me know! I thought already of an external PLC writing the ESS Setpoint into the Modbus register, to actively reduce the SOC during the daytime, to make more use of the DC coupled PV System.
Hello to all
I am searching for a Victron charger for a lifepo4 battery 36v 100ah
any recommendations ?
Cant find anything
Hi everyone. I asked a question recently regarding disabling Bulk protection mode on a Phoenix battery charger. The thread is here:
During the investigation, with assistance from Victron support staff; we found that we were able to disable bulk protection by connecting a MK2 programming lead and using VEconfigure. So that's our Phoenix charger sorted.
So following on from that, now I have the same question and problem...but with the Skylla Charger. To be clear, this is the older non-I version of the chargers. We have several models installed, all are 24V versions ranging from 24/30 up to 24/100. The boards do not have an RJ45 port so I can't try the VEconfigure trick again. There is another connector on the board which looks like an IDC type ribbon connector, not sure what this is for though. Can't see anywhere else to plug anything in. There are DIP switches but none of these are allocated to bulk protection (according to the manual).
The manual says that after 10 hours of bulk charge, the chargers will switch to float mode to protect the battery. We have not observed this behaviour with our chargers. Our chargers will instead shut off and the fail LED will flash the code for bulk protection activated. These fault codes are not in the original manual but are in the manual for the Skylla-I and appear to be the same. If the charger is switched off/on again charging will recommence for another 10 hours but then the same will happen. Luckily, most of our sites that have these fitted have remote control generators instead of mains power so as long as we monitor our battery voltages we can tell when a charger has gone into Bulk protection mode and reset the generator to carry on charging.
Example: We have a 3000Ah battery bank that was discharged to 23.5V. It took over 30hours bulk charge with a Skylla 24/100 set to 100A charge to charge this back up. During this time I had to:
1. Start generator locally and then leave site. Charger operates at 100A Bulk for 10 hours.
2. After 10 hours, remote monitoring showed that battery voltage had dropped back down to 24V, charger failed on bulk protection.
3. Remote reset generator. Battery voltage seen to increase to 26V on charge again as Skylla is reset.
4. Repeat 2 and 3 every 10 hours
It wouldn't be so bad if the charger did what the manual said and went to float mode, at least this would eventually charge the batteries back up without our intervention, (not ideal charging voltages though). We can't go any higher with our charge currents, we've got 16mm feeders and that's it, space is tight.
So is there any way to do what we did with the Phoenix chargers and disable this mode? Or alternatively make the charger go into float mode instead of failing?
When AC is connected, after 10-15 seconds Multiplus Compact tries to switch on charger (as usual) and then immediately relay switches it off (almost simultaneous relay clacks). Looks like protection.
1) Wiring is correct (grounding, live/neutral)
2) AC is pure and fine (was working 3 days with it)
3) Boat installation
4) Checked with disconnected ac output - same behavior
5) Issue appeared after some rewiring work on the input side (connecting everything back as before did not help either).
6) Battery is 12.8V. No other chargers connected.
7) Invertor works fine (means DC and AC output lines are correct), AC output is working fine.
Question - what is going on with MultiPlus and how it can be healed? Does this mean unit is broken now?
Kind regards, Serhiy
My Blue Smart IP22 charger (12 V / 30 A - 3 outputs) sometimes trips the automatic fuse of the shore supply when starting up. The fuse is 10 A , B-curve type. No other equipment than the charger is connected at that moment so the charger must be the cause of this. When the charger does not trip the fuse, it functions normally.
What could be the cause ? Is this a known issue ? Any suggestions for a solution ?
I need help selecting a Victron 12V charger that
Are there any devices that would work? It seems the Centaur doesn't communicate with Cerbo, and isn't programmable.
BTW, my absolute fantasy product is an inverter/charger that can plug into any shore voltage, but puts out only 230V. Sort of an transformer/inverter/charger.
I'm on a boat that uses shore power all over the world, so I need to be able to plug in to USA 120V and 230V everywhere else. I use that to charge my batteries, and use a a separate inverter using the batteries to provide AC house power to the boat. I currently have a Mastervolt Chargemaster 12-100 that handles any voltage. That works great, but now I'm upgrading to LiFePo4 batteries, and the Mastervolt doesn't have Lithium profiles, doesn't seem (???) to be programmable. It also will not connect to the Cerbo or Bms, so I can't send stop charge commands.
How many watts does the built in 70 amp charger use on the Victron Quattro 5000
I'm curious if there's a critical protocol for connecting or disconnecting a charge controller. It's my assumption it's ok to tie in live panels so long as a battery is connected & to disconnect any live panels before removing the batteries. Would that be right? And is it a bad move to connect live panels with no battery connected? Or suppose a battery breaker trips & disconnects the battery from the charger with live panel power, would that fry a charger? I'd like to think Victron has these scenario's covered for protection against such things but I had 2 chargers fail within a couple of days of each other & not sure if 1 of those was the cause.
Bonjour à toutes et tous,
J’ai besoin de votre avis sur l’alimentation en 12V d’un EBL 119. EBL est un bloc électrique qui équipe la plupart des Camping-Cars.
Mon intention est de retirer complètement la batterie de service équipée de base (AGM) et sa connexion à l’EBL et de m’équiper en Lithium 2x 200Ah.
L’EBL n’étant pas conçu pour le Lithium, je m’équipe totalement différemment et le tout en Victron.
Mais je souhaite quand même garder l’EBL qui gère les alimentations 12V du CC, pompe, chauffage,etc…
D’où ma question :
Est-il correct d’alimenter l’EBL (sans batterie de service donc) par son entrée chargeur +/- qui autorise une alimentation en 18A et câblé en 16mm2, ceci serait possible grâce au Chargeur Orion-Tr Smart isolé 12/12-18 depuis le parc Lithium ?
Ou est-ce un autre chargeur ?
Si ceci est correct, est-il judicieux d’installer un BatteryProtect pour éviter le retour ou pas nécessaire ?
Merci beaucoup de vos lumières
I have a starter battery and a service battery on my boat and need to replace the charger. The old charger has a single output. Both batteries are connected to the alternator via a diode bridge. If I connect both batteries separately to the charger, will I still need the diode bridge? How then does the alternator gets connected without messing things up? Here's an image of the current setup:
I use this charger for a LiFePo4 battery from BattleBorn. I am re-doing my setup and was wondering if it is safe to leave the charger connected to the battery all the time so that when mains power is available I can plug it in and have it charge the battery while the load connected to the battery continues to run? I believe I have seen that this is okay but wanted to confirm. Secondarily I have the function set to charger - would I need to switch that to power supply or can I just leave it as charger?
Hi there, thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
I've just finished my solar setup in our small van and turned everything on. Everything appears to be working properly except the DC Charger is not powering on. My MPPT solar charge controller right next to it powered on just fine. Any tips from the community on how I can check what the problem might be?
Does this sound like the unit itself malfunctioned somehow, or did I set something up wrong? I shouldn't need to connect the charger itself to the Starter Battery or the Alternator for this to work, as long as I have it connected to the battery bank, correct?
Sometimes when I power on the IP43 Charger (3/50A), it blows the fuse in the shore power pole. When the fuse is reset by someone of the marina, all works properly again. The unit a powering multiple lead/acid batteries.
I have read that someone else noticed a high startup consumption, but not sure he means this.
Do I have a faulty unit? Any suggestions?
Victron IP43 charger
Today did I Observe on the batterymonitor that the charger didn’t charge my battery bank as expected.
Checked the shore power, 230 volt.
When I checked the LEDs on the IP43 charger:
All LEDs on including ALERT/ALARM led
Followed by only BULK led on.
My interpretation is: Bulk time protection
I expected to see bulk, floating etc
Have nerver before faced any alarms.
What criteria has caused this bulk time protection?
Will it start to charge after some ”protection time out”?
Don’t like this status now with sound from a Relay and leds flashing
How does the 3 output behave with only one battery connected? Is the total charge output divided among the three outputs regardless? For example if only one battery is connected to the 3 output model would it get a 30 amp charge or a 10 amp charge. If the output is divided can all three outputs be hooked up to one battery?
I'll shortly be installing 5x Firefly Oasis G31 as my house bank, are there any plans to create a firefly specific profile for the following equipment?
- Phoenix Smart Charger 3+1 50A
- MPPT 150/60
Or can someone share the settings that they currenty use?
I need some help programming the Phoenix Charger model 12/30. I have followed the manual as best I can, but nothing seems to work.
I first tried to program it without the remote control, using a voltmeter. I switched it on as instructed in the manual, and the correct LEDs were alternately blinking. However the voltage on the voltmeter, in DC mode, was way off - around 40-50 millivolts, whereas the manual said it would be in the 12-16 volt range. I was hooked up to the positive and negative just like it suggested. Additionally, the up and down buttons had no effect.
I then tried to program it with the remote control, and it was entering into all the correct modes (based on the LED patterns), however, I was unable to actually alter any of the voltage settings using the up and down buttons on the circuit board. No matter how many times I clicked or in which direction, the LEDs on the remote never changed their flashing patterns.
Am I missing something? I have the batteries disconnected, and there is no voltage or temperature sensor either. I just have it plugged into mains and following the instructions.
I have contracted my distributor but so far they have not helped me.
Thank you for your help!
I have a Phoenix Multiplus 12/3000/120. This specific model https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Manual%20-%20MultiPlus%203k%20230V%20Ve.Bus%20enabled%20-%20rev%2000%20-%20EN%20NL.pdf
Hi Everyone - I'm hoping you can help with a question I have on the best choice of AC>DC charger, and the setup for my planned battery configuration in my van build
At the moment I have three 95Ah AGM batteries that are hooked up in parallel that i want to charge using a Blue Smart AC>DC charger from my shore power system, and i'm wondering whether it's best to go with the 30A single output charger, with the pos and neg going to the batteries at the opposing end of the parallel bank, or potentially go with the 15A 3 output charger with each battery having its own pos connection and the neg's all running to a common bus bar? All options with fuses at the battery end of course.
Are there any benefits or drawbacks to either approach?
Does anyone have a similar setup to either option and can provide any good feedback on their choice?
Good day. I have a boat that I will be on for 2-4 weeks at a time and using for living, cooking, lighting, etc as a what people call a working system. I have 3 items I need setup properly. Can you all assist with settings? I have a Victron BMV 712, Victron 150/70 MPPT (870watts), Xantrex 150amp charger/inverter, and 4 Lion Energy Safari UT1300 105ah lithiums.
1st priority is longevity of my batteries, but a very close second is:
Fast charging. I have to burn precious diesel to run generator (maintenance/fuel) to use the Xantrex charger. And, my solar is on a boat and thus never optimally positioned so I need to maximize my Victron MPPT 150/70 when I get sun. I cannot wait around for slow charging my lithium batteries as I only have 400 amp hours and uses 200-300 per day and need it back daily.
|Temp comp: off. battery should do it.
|low temp cutoff: off battery BMS should do it.
|Capacity: 420 Ahr
|Charged voltage: 13.9/14.0
|Tail current: 4%
|Charge detection time: 3-5 minutes
|Peukert exponent: 1.05
|Charge Efficiency factor: 99%
|Current threshold: 8 amps (2% of capacity?)
|Time to go average: 3min
|Zantrex 150 amp charger.
|Bulk: no setting, constant amps till reaches absorption voltage.
|Absorption: 13.9 - 14.2. Cannot decide what to enter.
|float: 13.5 to 13.9 . I don't know what to enter.
|Absorption time: lowest possible I can set to. Under 30 minutes.
|No temp compensation|
|Invert low volt shutdown: 11.5 safe value. How much am I leaving in capacity at 11.5 vs 10v?
|Recovery. 12 or 12.2 volts. Not sure what to enter.
Currently I am working on a simple setup for a camper. I've added AC and DC load to the schematic.
[image]I would like to ask the experts out there to check if this setup is correct or if I still need to adjust something here.
For now I only want to use shore power to charge the battery and in the future I want to expand this with solar panels.
I do not intend to connect this setup to the alternator for the time being.