Hi all, apologies for the long post but looking for advice on a new set up.
When this boat was built in 2008 I guess flooded wet batteries were the norm and strangely despite it having two fridges, stereo, amplifier etc it was spec'd from the factory with a single 100AH Start Battery and a Single 100AH Service Battery (way too low for a weekend imo). No solar back then and generator was optional which I doubt have.
I naively put in two AGM service batteries in parallel for 2x110AH and they are now in their 4th season and not fairing very well. I moor on a floating berth so no shore power but I do have a single 150W solar panel on a MPPT 100/20, but wasn't really aware that just dropping in AGMs with no mods wasn't ideal and they wouldn't really get charged properly.
2007 Volvo Penta D4-225 with 115A alternators. Looking at the attached electrical diagram I can see that the Port Alternator might be doing nothing, I need to physically check if that dotted line is an actual linked cable to Stbd or not (Q. Any ideas?). The starboard engine/alternator which has the power steering so is normally always running has been wired with an old school battery isolator that appears to have a 1.5mm sense wire and is charging the single start battery and the AGM 2x110AH services bank.
I'm not happy with the Bow Thruster being wired into my services bank and have read online that should be on the start battery, would be an easy change to swap over. Also my single start battery has a higher CCA (830). I could if needed put in a second 830CCA Wet VRLA battery for the bow thruster or use it as a combined second start battery/bow thruster battery and then have each engine alternator feeding each start battery Q. Thoughts?
New Set Up
1.) Install a Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12-30 Non Isolated DC to DC converter as a charger for the current AGM services bank (to become LiFEPO4 soonish). Q. If I stick with one start battery, can I pass a new 16mm2 wire from the Port alternator direct to the Orion Input and set it up in AGM Charger mode matched to the specs of my AGM batteries? The largest draw on the services bank would be the windlass which is 800W and factory fused at 63A. The port 115A alternator would then be dedicated to the Orion and Services Bank.
2.) Install a Victron Smart Battery Protect 100A to protect the service bank.
3.) Install a Victron Smart BMV-712 Smart to monitor my system and secondary to start battery
4.) Install a Victron Smart Battery Sense to monitor the voltage and temps of my services bank
5.) Install a new 280W PV Panel and Victron Smart MPPT100/30 wired to services bank and V.E. Networked
6.) Retain my 150W PV panel on its Smart 100/20 that will also be V.E. networked so both controllers can access the battery temp and voltage info, plus adjust charge current as needed.
7.) When I do change to LiFEPO4 it would just be a case of adjusting the parameters on the Orion to Li-Ion.
I have had a good look on here and various other places and seem to have come up short about how I should be wiring the Orion-Tr 12/12-30 Non isolated, MPPT 75/15 and the BMV 712 together.
I understand how to wire each of the components individually - as per the diagrams they each provide, but combining them seems to have me questioning myself. I have drawn the attached picture of how I believe it should all go together so the BMV can monitor everything correctly but I am unsure if I have the wiring diagram correct. Can someone please vet this and let me know if I have missed something/got it wrong and it wont work.
Thanks for the help and potentially helping others at the same time :)
I’ve got a Fiat Ducato 9 (MJ2022) with start stop. During deceleration, the Orion Smart charger is activated since the voltage reach 14 V (I suppose due to regeneration of the start/stop generator). But during acceleration, the voltage comes down and charging is deactivated. I have seen a minimum voltage of 12.2V. Therefore, I tried in settings something with changing the shutdown voltage to 11V but the effect remains the same (besides, this wouldn’t be a proper solution). Does anyone know what are the settings for this vehicle to avoid a falsy engine shutdown detection?
Thanks & BR Ben
Edit: I changed the Input Voltage Lockout to 12 V and the charger kept on! The voltage of the vehicle in idle (stand-still) position toggled between 12.2 and 12.4 Volt. Status of charger was bulk phase. I’m a bit worried if this settings would lead to an empty starter battery some day but at least I can hold my charger in state on. What do you guys think???
I have a question. If I'm traveling from a long time, and my LiFEPO4 battery is in float status, but I have to turn off the engine of my car for little amount of time, when I turn on again my car, is it going to restart from bulk again (or absorption)? Mine works like this
Looking for ideas to troubleshoot my alternator charging setup. I replaced a ML-ACR from the AGM setup with 2 Orion Tr Smart 12/12 30a in parallel with the new BattleBorn Lithium batteries.
I took the easy way out and re-used the 2/0 wire run by the original up-fitter from the Transits main terminal back to the power cabinet (10-12' run). There I am using a small busbar to split off 2 50a fused 6awg input wires to each Orion Tr Smart 12/12 30a. Then from the Orions I go to the main busbar.
The Orions will charge for 10mins in Bulk, then flip over to Absorption and not provide any incoming charge. After 10mins the units will sometimes begin charging again while still showing Absorption even though the SOC is at 50%. When the units do begin a new charge cycling on their own, it follows a 5min on, 5min off pattern.
If I remove the jumpers to power the devices off/on, I will get another 10min of bulk charging before it again cycles to Absorption and no charge.
I see input voltages in the 13.8-14.2 range during all this. I have disabled one of the 2 units and see the same behavior, just half the charge amps. I have also turned off the Smart Solar MPPT controller so only one charge source is contributing. My only 2 thoughts are to try and connect via the Ford Customer Connect Point vs direct wire to vans system and/or wire the Orion output directly to the battery incase there is something at the busbar contributing to the issue.
Are the Blue Smart and Orion Smart programmable to have low temperature cut-off for lithium batteries? Provided that there is also a BMV-712 with a temperature sensor connected.
Datasheets and manuals don't mention this option, but since they have high temperature protection and are Smart devices, it should be a possible setting somehow?
Same question is still unanswered here: https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/86196/low-temp-cutoff-for-orion-smart-and-blue-smart.html
Hi. I have one victron orion-tr 12/12 30a in my van and I'd like to install another to give me 60amps,total charging. Can anyone advice my how I'd need to wire the 2 units many thanks
I'm looking at setting up a DC-DC charger in my Subaru Forester for my leisure battery that is purely used to keep my Engel going overnight in the car.
I have The Rover Lithium 70Ah Power Station
My Questions are:
I have an Orion 12/12-30 installed in a VW T6.1 charging a LiFePo leisure battery. All installed and working perfectly until my last drive. After a few hours of driving I noticed the battery hadn’t been receiving any charge. Message reads Charge disabled due to engine shutdown detection (I’m using the algorithm rather than a engine run signal wire). I can force it to charge by disabling engine shutdown and voltage lockout so the unit does function.
The input voltage figure hasn’t changed from 11.6v after 8 hours of driving. Normally I’d see that figure fluctuate depending on what the smart alternator is doing in relation to driving conditions. Resetting to factory default had no affect. Next now I’m home, I’ll disconnect the unit all together to effectively ‘switch it off and on’ the classic fix!
Just wondering if anyone has come accross a similar issue with the input voltage figure freezing? I’d appreciate any input if you have.
Need some help.
-Is this correct way to connect this setup?
-can i charge simultaneously with Orion tr smart and solar panels while driving?
- when parking can i charge simultaneously with those two 230v chargers and solar panels?
I am just in the midst of a camper conversion and have been struggling to find out if the following is possible.
I have the following items regarding the charging side of things:
- Victron Orion-TR Smart DC-DC isolated 12v 18A
- Victron BlueSmart 12v 15a 3 output mains charger
- Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/15
All 3 will be connected via a distribution block to the leisure battery bank (2 x 115ah AGM) which i understand is ok to do, but i would also like to charge the car battery via the mains BlueSmart charger while connected to shore power.
Now i could run a ing switch live to the DC-DC charger so it only comes on when driving, but that means running a cable the length of the van which i could do without, and i'd rather not if i don't have to.
So the question is, would it be a problem if the BlueSmart mains charger was charging the leisure batteries and the car battery, which would then switch the DC-DC charger on as it'll see the high voltage?
For some reason my smart shunt does not see the charging current from my orion DCDC charger.
When running the engine, if i look at the orion in victron connect I can see the orion start up and go into charging mode and I can also see the increased voltage of my auxilliary battery which occurs when its receiving charge current. If I look at the smart shunt in victron connect I initially see a spike in current for a second or so along with an increase in battery voltage but then the current goes to zero but the voltage stays the same. When i check back to the orion, the app still shows that it is in a charge mode (bulk/absorb). Possibly this has something to do with my orion earthing? wiring diagram is attached.
Hi I have a Orion tri smart isolated version. But now my van has a common ground. So the board battery and starter battery share the ground. Can I simply connect both minus from the tri smart?
Ive run the wrong cable from the starter battery to the house battery via the 12/12-30 and im getting voltage drop of around 1.1v when under full load
Can i chassis ground the isolated version of the 12/12-30 to allow me to double up the cabling for the ve+ running from starter battery to house battery ?
My house battery isnt currently connected to chassis ground (not sure if that makes a difference ?)
Thanks in advance
I am just wondering if I have to put my Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC 12v/12-18 in Charger Disabled mode when no house battery is connected or can i just leavening on as normal?
I could not find anything under
8.3.2. Charger Mode - Battery Settings • Charger enabled
And if I switch the Charger Enabled off is say this mode should only be used for mentainence