I have just bought a Victron Smatt Shunt and noticed the very low bluethooth signal range. So i want to extend that and if possible by connecting the shunt to the internet.
I already use lorawan in my Camper/RV. It has a TTN gateway and a LTE modem. So i would very much like to connect the Smart shunt by the Victron lorawan module. BUT I read the shunt is not supported though it does have a ve.direct port.
Has anyone tried it as suggested in this tread? .https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/79235/smartshunt-vedirect-lorawan-are-compatible-to-send.html
I think to connect a Smartshunt with a VE Direct LoRaWAN, to read remotely the battery State of Charge and other parameters Smartshunt may send to the VRM Portal.
Is this a legitimate, feasible use case supported by Victron? Anybody tested this configuration?
I read VE Direct LoRaWAN manual but I do not see compatibility with the SmartShunt. Thus my questions above.
Below an excerpt form the VE Direct LORaWAN manual:
I have a Battery Protect 220. The loads are all on the correct side.
I have a charger/inverter (not victron, sadly) and that is not protected with the battery protect because it's a charger. Thus, I was hoping to use the relay contact on the BP to disconnect the charger/inverter. I haven't done that yet.
The issue is when the charger/inverter line is reconnected, the BP disconnects and reconnects. It does not wait 90 seconds. It does not display anything on the segment display. Neither the BP nor the smartshunt register a drop in voltage. I don't have an ammeter capable of measuring the inrush current.
I already have a Smart Shunt that includes the bluetooth connection. I'm pleased with the phone access and Victron app - however I'd like to go ahead and add a physical readout display, something that looks like the BMV-700. However, I don't need to purchase another shunt. Is there a way to add just the monitor readout to my existing Smart Shunt without purchasing the entire BMV-700 kit which also comes with a shunt?
I'd love to get some feedback on my diagram. This is for a DC-only system in 12V.
I'd like to check remotely on the battery SOC, so it looks like the Smart Shunt + Cerbo with a router will be the best way to do that. Unless someone has a better suggestion?
I went with the Lithium Superpack to save a bit of money by not having to get an external BMS. If there are other ways to make it cheaper without losing functionality, please let me know.
I'm still figuring out the distribution box, so that part of the diagram is just a placeholder at this stage.
Hi, I have a client with a 12v 3kva multiplus unit connected to a cerbo gx screen with a smart shunt. He has sent me a video of the battery percentage readout on the cerbo gx screen which while charging, it jumps from its actual percentage (74%) down to 1% and back constantly. It only does this while charging and it is mimicked on the VE connect app via bluetooth. Any thought as to what could be causing it?
Is there any fix for this?
I have a smart shunt connected to my main battery. Everything if fine. I have decided to connected the engine battery on the other input of the smartshunt using the extra cabble that was supplied. the reading of the engine battery is only displaying 3V although the tension is 1 about 13 volts on the engine battery…
I have conneted then this engine cable to the main battery, I have the same reading of about 3 volts, although the reading of the main battery is reading about 13 volts on the top part of the screen on the app:
I have tried to change the setting from engine battery to no input then back to engien battery, still the same.
Any idea of what it could be? I have had this shunt connected fr more than one year to the main battery with no reading issues, why the reading would be wrong on the engine battery?
I have a Smart Shunt with latest firmware with a ve.smart networking setup to 2 MPPT 100/50 and 4 Ip22 12/30 chargers.
Everything is using the Lifepo4 profile with a low temp cutoff of 5 degrees C
It simply doesnt work with the charging continuing at 4 degrees C
Everythings firmware is up to date and the synchronised charging works perfectly but alas not so the low temperature cut off
Any ideas as to why?
I'm planning on adding a Victron VRM monitoring system to an existing workboat. It currently has three Skylla-i chargers and 10 (yes 10!) different battery banks. I'd like to see battery information on the 10 banks, plus the Skylla-i info plus Incoming 3-phase from Generator /shorepower on VRM via CerboGX. I can see how to do most of it, but not how to 'Network' 10 smart shunts. This looks like it may be possible with Lynx Shunt VE.CAN but it's too expensive for the project.
If I want to monitor my starter battery voltage would I even need to run a separate ground wire since the starter battery and the house batteries are both already grounded to the chassis?
So if the current threshold is set to .10 it will ignore any current draw up to .10, but if there is a draw of say .13 will the Smart Shunt see all of the .13 or just .03? In other words will it always ignore .10 of the total current or just ignore loads that total less than .10?
I am neavly installed smarth shunt, my main concern to learn my 24 hours energy consumption. I will decided to enlarge may solar panells and battery bank according to my 24 hours enery consumption
I installed my Smart Shunt on my 230 AH FLA battery bank and set the charged voltage to the recommended 13.2V. After loading for 4 hours at 10 amps I was at 83% when I disconnected the load and connected the charger (IP65 12/15). The SOC display reached 100% while the charger was still in absorption. Is this acceptable or would my SOC display be more accurate if I raised the charged voltage to a point where SOC would not reach 100% till the charge went to float?
I have a Smart Solar 100 | 20 charge controller which gets power from a 165W panel. I also have an IP22 charger which connects to the battery via the same bus as the charge controller. The battery is a 100Ah Battleborn lithium, and on the negative of the battery I have a SmartShunt installed.
When not connected to mains, getting only solar power, the charge controller powers loads first, and uses extra to charge the battery when necessary, otherwise it cuts power from the panel. With sufficient sunlight, most of the time it just feeds about 9W of power to cover parasitic draw from a few devices in my RV that always run. The battery just stays at 100%, unless the sun goes down or behind a cloud in which case it draws from the battery. When charging, the solar charge controller starts at a relatively low voltage and ramps up slowly, until the battery is almost full, then it ramps up pretty fast until it peaks at 14.5V (configured), holds it there for 30 min, then drops to 13.5V. The SmartShunt is configured to recognize anything above 14.4V for 3 minutes as an indication of full charge. This is all great, just exactly what I expected.
But it is completely different on the IP22. If I take the solar out of the equation by cutting the panel off, the IP22 charges the battery by immediately raising the voltage to 14.5V and holding it there until it determines (presumably by current) that the battery is full. Then it holds for a bit (not sure how this is configured), then drops to float voltage (configured as 13.5V) and then drops a few hours later to storage voltage (configured as 13.5V). For whatever reason, this is not enough to convince the SmartShunt the battery is full. So the SOC value drifts over time. This is the first problem I'd like tips on solving.
The second issue is how the IP22 handles load. By which I mean it doesn't, really. At least not small loads. The 9W draw comes directly from the battery, and after some threshold is reached the IP22 wakes up, adds power to the battery, then goes back to sleep. It spends a lot of time cycling quickly between the different profile steps. This process seems to work, I guess, but it's a bit ugly to watch in my Grafana plots, and it seems much less elegant than the way the solar charge controller handles the mix of load and charging. I'd like to know if this behavior is configurable, or if it is inherent to the design of the IP22.
In my perfect world the IP22 would have a battery profile that looked a lot like the solar charge controller would look like with perfect sun at maximum capacity. And the SmartShunt would correctly reset to 100% SOC regardless of which charger tops off the battery.
Please, if you have any tips on what I may be missing here, I would sincerely appreciate it!
I hope this is not a silly question to ask but I have 3 x 12v batteries wired in parrallel ( + to + & - to - ) where my multi-plus inverter has two positive leads & two negitive leads coming off two batteries. When I install my smart shunt ( If correct ) I put the two negitive leads coming back from the inverter on the ground side but would I put two leads on the other side of the shunt back to the batteries or just a single lead.
So I have 400A/h of lithium batteries being charged by 4 x Victron SmartSolar MPPT's and monitored by a Smartshunt. The MPPT's get the battery voltage via bluetooth from the SmartShunt, and they all have the following settings:
Absorption voltage 14.2V
Float Voltage 13.5V
Re-bulk voltage offset 0.1V
Maximum Absorption time 0m
Tail Current Disabled
Temperature Compensation Disabled
Low temperature cut-off 5degreesC
My MPPT's happily all go to float the instant the battery voltage hits 14.2V. Good stuff.
The SmartShunt however doesn't recognise that the battery bank has hit 100%. My SmartShunt settings are:
Battery capacity 400Ah
Charged voltage 14.1V
Discharge floor 10%
Tail Current 4%
Charged Detection Time 1m
What do I need to do to make the SmartShuntconsider the batteries full?
The "Time To Go" calculation is great to have as an indication. I like it although I would prefer it goes beyond 240h, but that is not what this feature request is about.
It is about, though, adding a similar but reversed calculation. Something like "Time To Charged", "Time To Full" or "Time to 100%" when charging to get an estimate of how long it will take to reach 100% with the amp input at the current moment.
This would mean a new dbus address, it could send out null when discharging and 0 when fully charged. I have no idea about the possibility or difficulty of doing this, so take it for what it is, a simple idea.
My questions are as follows:
The SmartShunt is greyed out and now says another device is connected to it. My phone is the only device I’ve used. I’ve disconnected, restarted my phone, airplane mode etc. I installed the app on my iPad and it’s the same deal with the greyed out SmartShunt, so it’s definitely that. I don’t know what to do. I looked at similar questions and there are no solutions.
I am dealing with a van upgrade that has a single existing 110 Ah LiFeP04 battery. The system will be upgraded with multiplus, smartsolar mppt, orion, cerbo
The target is to have a 200 Ah battery system and we are currently considering several options.
- Adding one 110 Ah battery. (The state of the current battery os unknown)
- Replacing the system with 2 x 100 Ah batteries (Space is limited and we would like to avoid this solution)
- Replacing the system with 1 x 200 Ah. (Preferred solution so far)
If we go we option 2 or 3, I was wondering if there is any way to re-use the old battery even if amp and size are not the same? Could it somehow be hooked up to the system without reducing the performance of the new battery(ies)?
I'm trying to read the data from my Cerbo GX, and I'm unable to monitor all. I have 10 devices connected to the cerbo ( 7 bluesolar mppt 75/15 & 3 smart shunts) and I'm only able to monitor 8 of them.
More precisely, I can only read data from device ID between 2--9 and can't read data from ID 10 and 11. What I think is its not registering any Device ID above 10 somehow. While checking my NMEA reader, I can see all my devices with all the data I required. I have tried to change and interchange the instance id's but no luck with id above 10. Also, I can see the all the devices in cerbo network, but the issue is still I can't share the data from those two devices.
What shall I do to read all data from my cerbo?
Any help will be appreciated.
Do I need to wire both the Smartsolar MPPT 75/10 with the Smart Shunt? Or do I only need to use Smartsolar MPPT 75/10?
Does the Smart Solar charger do everything the Smart Shunt does?
I have a 500 amp smart shunt connected to 2 Lion Energy UT 1300 LIFPO4 batteries in parallel. 105 Amp Hour each. I am having difficulty getting them to Auto Sync. The manufacturer recommended the following settings. Battery Cap. 210. Charge V 13.9V. Discharge floor 20%. Tail Current 4.00%. Charged Det. Time 3m. Peugeot Exp.1.05. Charge Eff.factor 99%. Current Threshold 0.10A. Time to go avg. Period 3m.
I have recently installed the orion charger to my system along with the victron smart shunt. This is installed with 2 x 126ah lithium batteries. The Orion seems to be working as per picture below but my batteries are only decreasing in power even though I have been driving for hours over the past few days. I also have a low power light come on my victron multiplus. Any ideas at all what could be going wrong? I have checked all the wires/fuses and all seems ok.
I have a BMV 712, and right now there are just too many (5) negative wires attached to the Shunt, i can't tighten the nut with the lock washer. I was thinking of adding a bus bar (Marinco 500a, no fuses) for the negative wires, and running that to the shunt. Does the wiring in this diagram make sense to do that? The negative wires are different sizes and lengths (1AWG, 8 AWG, 12 AWG), does that matter? And does it matter which stud on the bus bar the negative wires are connected to? Meaning does the last stud need the wire going to the shunt?
Or do i need the bus bar at all, and i could just distribute the negative wires across both posts of the Shunt? Right now, i had Battery 1 negative going to the left side of the shunt, and 5 other negative wires going to the right side (negative from battery 2, negative from bilge, negative from dc panel, another negative and then the wire to the ground).
Thank you for any help!
I run a 130ah Aux battery in my vehicle which is connected to a smart shunt 500a, Orion DC to DC 12/12 30, Multiplus 240v 12v 30a 800w, Smart Mppt 75/30 and a Cebro GX and Display.
Over the weekend camping my voltage dropped as low a little 6.2v even though my system was showing 99% charge level.
I suspected my battery had failed but when I returned home I connected a battery tester which showed a 25% charge level which was after around 5 hours of driving/charging.
I've now fully charged the battery with a separate charger and it's back to capacity and kicking out 13.4v.
So basically I can only ascertain that my smart shunt was showing incorrect charge level and therefore my Victron setup wasn't charging the battery as it should.
Has anyone seen this issue or can offer any suggestions ?
Thanks in advance
Hi - I was wondering if someone might be able to help me understand the SOC reading and how its calculated. I have a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery. I believe I've set all the correct settings to reflect the battery type per the manual (See attached), but I'm not sure I understand the SOC number. If, I've used 73.7Ah of the 100Ah capacity, so that should be ~26% SOC. Looking at the documentation for my battery, a voltage reading of 13.0 is ~30% SOC. Is the shunt "smart" enough to tell from the voltage or other data that the battery might actually have a little more than 100Ah capacity (this is the first discharge cycle since initially charged, so there is no history to draw from). Any info or pointers on how the numbers are being calculated or what to expect over time would be greatly appreciated.
Can I use the Smart Shunt’s ve direct port to put a Bluetooth dongle on an extension for additional coverage? Also can Smart Shunt use the ve direct to USB cable to connect to a computer?
I am playing in my lab with my new setup to be installed in a campervan. The setup is as follow (questions listed later):
200Ah LiFeP04 battery:
EasyPlus Compact 12/1600/70:
- Temperature sensing cable connected to battery minus pole
VE.Bus Smart Dongle:
- RJ45 connected to EasyPlus
- B- connected to battery minus pole
- B+ and T- connected to battery plus pole using cable "Temperature Sensor for BVM-702/712
- Aux and Vbatt+ connected to battery plus pole using cable "Temperature Sensor for BVM-702/712
- RJ45 connected to EasyPlus
1) Temperature is being read in three places (EasyPlus,Ve.Bus Smart Dongle, and SmartShunt)
Can I simplify the cabling by removing some of the temperature sensors? I.e. can EasyPlus Compact use the temperature readings from either VE.Bus Smart Dongle or SmartShunt 500A? Please note that I will also add a SmartSolar MPPT75/15 and that one for sure will need either the SmartShunt 500A or the VE.Bus Smart Dongle for temperature sensing (using VE.Smart Network)
2) How come that the temperature cable from the EasyPlus has to be mounted on the negative pole whole the ones from VE.Bus Smart Dongle and SmartShunt 500A goes on the positive pole? Can I attach it to the positive pole as well. Since I am using the shunt, I rather not attach anything between the shunt "To battery minus" and the battery minus pole
3) on VE.Bus Smart Dongle the B- should be connected to battery minus pole (according to documentation)
Could I attach it on the side "To system minus" of the shunt? Again to avoid (as best practices) having anything between the shunt and the battery minus pole.
4) can EasyPlus Compact 12/1600/70 read from the attached VE.Bus Smart Dongle or SmartShunt 500A (using VE.Smart Network) to get temperature information and battery monitor status? I know I can enable "Enable battery monitor" in the EasyPlus, but how does it play with the other components? In general, can EasyPlus pull information from other components?