All Posts in Questions & Answers

I have connected everything according to the instructions. When not connected to the car, the solar is coming in via a voltage relay switch. In the app it's showing 19 volts coming from the solar panel and I'm get the error: 'charging disabled' and 'remote input not activated'.

Am I doing something wrong? Do I need a regulator to bring that voltage from the solar panel down? What am I supposed to do with the jumper?

Help greatly appreciated.

Regards

Chris

Hi, I have 2 x 180 W solar panels Victron SPM011802400 on my boat. They are now 8 years old and working fine. Due to increased use of electricity want to upgrade to 2 x 215 W Victron SPM042152400. that should give ~ 25% increase in output, I hope. I do not want to upgrade to larger panels due to space limitations. I have one charge controller for each panel, so in total two Victron 75/15.

Question: can i just simply swap panels, same with same, or my installation will have to be amended ?

thanks in advance for your response.

Dear forum:

I have been exploring the web and seeing a lot of electrical diagrams for a Solar installation in a camper van, but non with the idea I had in mind, so I'm sharing my scheme.

My idea is to have 2 x 180W Solar panels serial conected to have 24v output connected to a MPPT solar controler to charge two 12v batteries (115Ah each, serial conected 24v total). I would like to be able to charge those batteries also with the van alternator, and someone in the forum suggested me to try the Orion DC to DC high power 12v to 24v 450W.

From there, control de batteries level witht he BMV 712 Smart, and some other components (see int the scheme) to have a 12v power line, an inverter to have 220v, etc.

I would appreciate a lot if anybody could comment on this, give me his/her opinion, It is my first electrical scheme, I know there might be some basic error (I'm not sure how to wire the Orion 12v to 24v to the alternator/starter battery and bank batteries), things to be corrected or improved.

All fuses and wire diameters still in process

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

[image]

The Which solar panel test seems to have concluded only 4 weeks after being announced.

What exactly was the conclusion?

Hi guys.

Could someone help me understand the rationale how the MPPT Calculator comes up with the suggestion in the attached screenshot for this array of 4x150W panels and why is it not suggesting the 100/50 (which I have already purchased)? The Max. V in min. temp. stays under 100 AND the MPPT need to limit the output current to 45A, so why not suggest the MPPT 100/50?

Also, are there 'sweet spots' in these MPPT's regarding the V's and A's coming in from the solar and what would these be for the SmartSolar 100/50?

Is there something here that I'm missing / not understanding? Could I still use the MPPT 100/50?

For what it's worth my other van conversion components include MultiPlus 12V 2000/80, Orion-Tr 12-12/30, SmartShunt and Cerbo GX. I'll be storing the energy in two 150Ah LiFePO4 batteries, with max. charge current of 100A each.

Thanks!

[image]

Hey Folks,

Appreciate you stopping by. I’m new to this area, but I’ve done a bit of research to solution for various other issues.. That said, i now am a bit stumped and would appreciate some help.

Background on my set up:

• 180w NewPowa solar panel x2 (Run in parallel & Fully tested before and after install)
• Victron MPPT Controler 100| 30
• Battle Born LiFePO4 (lithium) 100Ah 12v battery x3 (total 300Ah) run in parallel
• Victron BMV 712 Smart Monitor

Configuration for Victron systems:

Pictured below are my key setting configurations for my set up. I used the manual as well as some other threads to determine my settings.

Settings for the 100| 30 Controler :

[image]

Settings for the 712 Smart Monitor:

[image]

Questions/Concerns:

1. Based on my Whole electric system, does my configuration above seem to be accurate or are there pieces that I should re-evaluate?
2. Today and yesterday (during the day) my system has been stuck in ”Bulk”, which from what I read, means that the batteries are low and the system will bring in large amounts of power to charge them. The issue is that the batteries are very close to being fully charged. (below is some data from the app showing that I’m stuck on float) . I think its important to point out that I have been able to put a load on this and see my numbers and battery voltage adjust but I continue to stay in “bulk” . What could be causing this?

   [image]

   [image]

3. Possibly related to #2, today during a sunny day, my solar panels were barely bringing in any watts 30-50w range, while in bulk model. My battery on the monitor was at 95% or 13.4v but it didnt seem like it was going up at all. Any reason why this was happening?

Any help is greatly appreciate. Happy to provide more details around certain aspects.

Here are some additional data grabs...

Below is a picture from the monitor today while having a slight load on it (fan, heater, lights):

[image]

Here’s a picture of the van when I bought it.. It’s changed a lottttt since then.

[image]

Hi, we are thinking of putting solar on our boat. The system we require is not as complicated. We Have battery storage capacity of AGM 1000Ah and use approx 1/3 or 30% of that storage over a 12 hour period. We run the genset for 3 hours in the morning and then again in the evening. We have room for 4 maybe 6 x 360Watt panels. 4x360W 1400W My thoughts are and your recommendations are essential. We need to generate approx 90Ah per hour for 8 hours to recharge our batteries from the night consumption while still generating our hourly usage. I think that is 1080 watts per hour? Now do we use mono Perc p-type panels in series which will give us greater voltage therefore better in low light eg morning and evening? Or do we have them in parallel that gives us greater current? Also do we put a small regulator on each panel so the panels are independent if a shadow from the radar tower falls across one. What percentage of the panels in shadow will effect the performance of the panels connected to each other? Or do we put say two MPPT controllers in, one for the panels that may get a shadow and one for the other panels? I look forward to discussion.

Hi All.

Need help determining if this can work or not. Excel says no, Online says yes. May well be operator error, not sure.

I have a EasySolar 3000 (Specs - https://www.victronenergy.com/inverter-charger-mppt/easysolar) for off grid work.
I'm have the panels from my house (which I have since upgraded) 10 x Sharp NUSOE3E panels 30v x 180A - approx 8-10yo.(Specs - https://www.energymatters.com.au/images/sharp/Sharp-NUS0E3E.pdf)

The EasySolar has a 150/70 MC4 inside, so was going to do 2 strings of 5 panels.

Challenge is excel says no, can only do 2 x 4 panels, online says yes I can.

I don't really want to overload and kill the thing, and it's remote so don't really want to start a bushfire either.....

Can anyone shine some light? I'd like to use all 10 panels for the best capacity if possible, but wondering if the panel specs versus MPPT specs may mean that's not possible.

Thanks.

Hi everyone. I am having some doubts about which fuses should I chose for this set up and I would like to know opinions.

The set up is:

-4x Pylontech 2,4kWh US2000

-Multiplus II 48V 5000VA

-MPPT 250V100A

-Lynx Distributor for the mega-fuses

-3S3P 490Wp (Voc 153,9V Isc 36,42A)

I have been checking some videos and I see 3 mega fuses that I would need:

-For the battery bank: 125A? Checking these q&a I determined this is the right one needed.

-For the MPPT: xxA?

-For the MPII: 200A? According to the Manual, page 11 4.2, says 200A recommended DC fuse.

I would appreciate any help on this. Thanks a lot

I’m trying to spec a system using all Victron kit and looking at the 100/30 MPPT charge controller. Does that controller accept 24 volts from solar panels and charge 12 volt batteries?

thanks

I know versions of this type question have be asked before , so bear with me

The boat has 2x SPM100-12/3a panels , no MPPT, I was going to upgrade to 2x SPM0417512 , 170W , series 4a panels

However I have space for all 4 panels , I was thinking of wiring each 100W in series with a 170 W , and paralleling it to the other 100+170W set of panels , using a single 100/50 Smart solar controller

is this a feasible solution , in general I dont have a shading issue , typically at anchor with the sails down as the panels are mounted above the Bimini .clearly I could put each series string on a separate mppt controller, but costs mount

thanks in advance

DAve

Hi all,

I am building solar system for a small Airstream trailer with very limited roof space, my goal is to get > 200w panels. Due to roof top space limitation, My panel selection is limited to the 2 options below.

1. Renogy 100w + 50w + 50w (Voc: 21.6, Vmax: 17.9) total 200w

2. Newpowa 75w x 3 (Voc: 20.3, Vmax: 17.0) total 225w

I am leaning towards #2, as it offers more watts and having the same panels are always a plus.

But since I need to install them in parallel due to roof top A/C unit shading, I am concerned that the ~1v Vmax drop in Newpowa might not work well with my Victron SmartSolar 100/20 SCC and LiFePo4 battery bank (13.4v fully charged)

According to SCC manual the

Voc needs to be 13.4+5 = 18.4v for SCC kickoff charging

Vmax needs to be 13.4+1 = 14.4v for SCC to staying in charging

This is very close to the spec of Newpowa panels (20.3v, 17v) and I am wondering if it's a bad idea to use these panels - panels won't be able to supply high enough voltage for SCC on a cloudy day? The Renogy panels would have a more comfortable margin and should be used instead?

Thanks in advance!

Hello, I am looking for advice regarding updating my current solar panel setup on my leisure vehicle.

Currently I have a single 80w panel and a Victron 75/10 controller. With weight on the roof being the constraint, I think I have three options:

1. Add another 80w panel and wire them in series to take into account the factory wiring, using the current controller
2. Add another 80w panel and wire them in parallel but update the factory wiring, using the current controller
3. Remove the 80w and install a 100/20 controller, update the wiring and a 200w panel (being the max size/weight I could install)

What do you think would give me best yield, all year round in the UK?

Many thanks for looking.

Sorry I know

this does not belong here but I want to see the results of the blog

https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/2020/10/12/which-solar-panel/?_ga=2.174003363.1434334916.1602612021-1771861531.1600484528

but the link as shown below

how to access

I can’t find

to see live data from our test go to the Victron Energy homepage and click on Field Test – which you’ll find top left of screen, on the site-map black-strip.

Take a look at this video to see how our 4 panel arrays were set up for comparison-testing, and how the results can be compared.

I am planning to install 18 panels of 450Wp (Voc 49,7V Isc 11,32A), 9 connected to each MPPT 250/100 with 3S3P giving me these values: 149,1V 33,96A.

I was reading the datasheet for the MP II48/5000/70-50 https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-MultiPlus-II-inverter-charger-EN.pdf and it says maximum 50A for Maximum AC input current.

I am not sure if I could use this MPII using 2 MPPT's at that Amps. Can anyone give me a hint on this issue? Thank you

Here's a picture of the junction box on the back of a Victron SPP041751200 175W panel:

Notice the three diodes - yet only two panel sections (three tabs). The panel physically is an arrangement of 4 x 9; electrically connected in two banks of 18 cells each.

I'm wondering why there are two diodes rather than just one across the more positive panel half? (right-hand side in this view)

(Aside: the soldering job is not fantastic on these...)

Hi. I bought 2 panels rated as 300w@30v. On a full sunny day, midday, my victron controller measured 254 w @ 19v, 13.1 amps? I then measured one panel only, I got, 154w@19v, 7.4 amps! Full sunny day! I believe these panels are falsely advertised? Can anyone assist me to ascertain whether these panels are faulty,? Or have I been scammed??

Thanks already.

I have reviewed manuals for several SmartSolar MPPT charge controllers. Section 3.3 "PV Configuration" lays out the guidelines for the solar array. It gives minimum, recommended and maximum number of individual solar cells in series, i.e. " Minimum number of cells in series: 72 (2x 12V panel in series or one 24V panel)".

Is the number of cells important or is this a generalization to get the user in the correct operating voltage range? That voltage range being Vbat+5 to 10-15% below the voltage limit.

For example, charging a 12v battery bank with a controller that has a recommended series cell count of 72. Using a single 24v panel, would it matter if the panel had 72 cells or 60 cells as long as the voltage is within the parameters?

I am using the Victron Energy MPPT Calculator Excel spreadsheet to determine voltage range vs temperature for individual panels.

Thanks

Hi guys,

Have been trying to figure this one out by myself and by reading other posts but I’m not getting anywhere. Hopefully somebody here can help.

I live in a van and have the following setup:

160w Blackline solar panel

2x 12V DC 75Ah Batteries in parallel

Victron MPPT 75/15 (no Bluetooth for app)

Victron Multiplus Compact 12/800/35-16

Victron Battery Display

We spent the last two months in very warm weather. Most of the days in full sun.

Yet I haven’t seen the wattage go above 90 watts. I’m sure it’s not in float since it even stays fairly low around 70%.

Yesterday I left the van in the morning around 09.00 and came back at 17.00 with all appliances turned off. It was in full sun all day and yet it only charged from 63% to 78%.

The previous owner tells me that, on a sunny day, it should do around 150 watts and that he got to 125 watts in February. I’m now in Italy in summer and I am not seeing those numbers. Recently it’s even been not much more than 50.

The whole thing has quite an impact on the way we live because we end up driving a lot more simply to charge our batteries.

Hope somebody has an idea.

Thanks!

Hi everyone, im setting up a new PV system off-grid and I would appreciate to receive some feedback of this configuration, for a consumption of about 5kWh/day. Thanks!!

-16x400Wp monocrystalline

-4x2,4kW pylontech US2000

-MPPT Victron 250V100A + display

-Inverter Victron MultiPlus-II 48V 5000VA 70+50A

-Victron Control Color GX

-Genset 5000W as backup

I am running a 200W panel through a 75/15 MPPT controller charging a 75Ah leisure battery. This system is used in a motor home and has been fine for over a year, however recently the battery is no longer charging. I have checked all fuses and connections and proven continuity in the wires from the panel to the controller.

My leisure battery reads 12.4V on a multimeter, however as can be seen in the attached image the controller states this to be 13.77. (Have I interpreted the screen correctly?).

I am also getting only 1W and 0A on a warm summer day in direct sunlight. The voltage stated in the image attached is 20.24V however when I put a voltmeter across the terminals on the controller I get nothing.

Also does the wattage display what power the solar panel can harness regardless of what charge the battery has. So even if I were to have a fully charged battery this would still display for example 130W in good weather?

[image]

I have a 150/60 MPPT with a string of 12 panels (Voc = 37.4 each). It's been in place for about 3 years, but about 4 or 5 times a year I get a VRM warning that the voltage is greater than 150V, which then clears after 30 seconds or so. I've never worried about this, assuming it was just a transient issue. However I've just read @Guy comments on other posts that even if it a couple of volts over 150 then I must immediately switch off the device, and reconfigure the strings. I don't know how they are currently configured, but am I right that if the voltage is maxxing out at just over 150V , then they will be in 3 parallel sets of 4 series panels. So must I change this to 4 parallel sets of 3 panels, which will bring the max voltage to 114V which is well below the 150 limit? What is the downside to doing this?

Hi all

I'm trying to help out a friend with a solar panel issue, it's 4x 100W 18V panels.

One of the panels doesn't seam to work in a series string, however it works just fine when connected to the controller on its own, going over 17V around 4A, my conditions wasn't perfect.

The other 3 panels work just fine, I can string them in series, but as soon as I add the 4th one the string doesn't work, I even tried to swop it around to give it another position in the string. I also tried it just with a string of 2 panels but still nothing.

All these tests were done on my Smartsolar 100/20 and I know the controller is good, since I have similar size panels which works as expected.

What can be wrong with this panel, can it be something simple like a fuse or something and is it easy to fix? I never opened a solar panel before.

Nick

I have a 12V Optima Yellowtop AGM battery in my 4x4 as a secondary battery which is connected to a 75W solar panel via a MPPT 75/15 BlueSolar charge controller. When my car is parked inside I want to connect the battery to my IP65 Blue Smart Charger. Do I have to disconnect the solar panels or can I leave them connected?

4 x victron 175W 12V open circuit V 23.7 ,9.03Amps will these work in Paralell on their own string going into a MTTP ? 48V

(do we work of open circuit voltage to trigger the MTTP ?

I know this is asked all the time, but I need a bit of clarification.

I am adding 4x Panasonic 340 W panels to my van. I have run the calculator and I think I know my options. Any option will communicate to a cerbo and will provide power to 4x tesla model s modules in parallel at ~24v.

I am slightly concerned with shading. System performance is more important than cost.

Would I be better served with option:

1) Qty 1 SmartSolar 150/70. Panels in a 2x2 configuration.

2) Qty 2 SmartSolar 150/35. 2 series panels on each MPPT.

3) Qty 4 SmartSolar 75/15. 1 Panel on each MPPT.

I am leaning towards option 3 for the following reasons.

A) If each panel had it's own MPPT, then partial shading will be less of an issue. Is this true?

B) This is also the lowest cost option? Might be equal once I have to get cables for each MPPT.

C) I can use a powered USB hub on the cerbo to communicate with all of these MPPT controllers and create a "singular" solar module in software.

D) I get 4 more software accessible relays? Can I get at these from the cerbo and touch gx?

The only downsides I see are wiring complexity and extra MPPTs to package.

Thanks in advance!

Mike

Our BMV 712 loses data after our lithium battery dischages. Then when we initiate recharging, the BMV shows no data on the SOC, no Consumed ah, and Time remaining shows "nanm", etc.

We depend on solar charge only and we rarely reach the 100% SOC in order to sync the BMV.

To put it simple: - How can we know how many amps are in the battery after a charging session that have charge the battery only partly?

hey there, i am planning to change the panel configuration from 12v (parallel connection) into a 24v one so that i can charge my 12v battery efficiently. should i set my victron mppt controller into 24v or this is auto-detected?when "system voltage" is mentioned, are we talking about the panels voltage or the battery?

sorry for the silly question but i am a novice in solar stuff, cheers

Have a 100/30 controller, 4 -200w panels, 2-100 amp Lipo battery’s in parallel. What’s the best configuration of the 4 panels? 2 sets of 2 panels in series, then parallel them?

I have a choice of either mounting my array on a north facing roof with a single mppt or as a east/west split with 2 mppts, my question is which scenario would give me the most charge throughout the day? I have been told that north only gives me about 4 hours in the middle of the day at peak angle where as east/west gives more overall hours throughout the day as the east gets the morning sun then after midday the west takes over.