I purchased 3 x 200Ah (12V) Smart Lithium batteries to replace the AGMs on my boat. Also purchased the VE Bus BMS v2, Lynx Distributor, and already have Cerbo, Multiplus, etc. The batteries are to be connected in parallel.
Section 4.6.4 of the Smart Lithium manual has a schematic showing connection of parallel batteries individually to busbars with a fuse on the positive cable (for cable protection). Question: could this be a MRBF fuse on the battery post? Would a MRBF fuse be better than using a Mega fuse (has much higher Interrupt Capacity)?
Further, this section also states that "connect the cables diagonally to ensure equal current path through each battery". This arrangement would be far easier (than the busbar method) in my constrained location. Is this equally acceptable for paralleling 3 batteries? And can/should I place a MRBF fuse at each positive terminal post (I have never seen a schematic or video of this!), or simply connect the cables post-to-post, and then have a T-fuse (or ANL fuse), very close to the batteries, on the cable to the Lynx Distributor (for DC Loads & Chargers)?
Thank you for feedback and suggestions.
In the Wiring Unlimited document is said "When wiring the system please make sure that the cross-section of the connection between the batteries and the DC distribution point equals the sum of the required cross-sections of the connections between the distribution point and the DC equipment". Does this mean if i have 5 wires of 16mm2 the section of the wire between the battery and the BusBar has to be of 16*5=80mm2?
And what is the section to connect 2 busbars?
I'm finalising my schematic for moving from AGM to Smart Lithium 3 x 200Ah (12V). System also has Multiplus 2000, Cerbo, SmartShunt, MPPTs, additional Phoenix charger, etc. I'm looking how to best create the Positive Main Busbar. Here is the current plan and questions:
- 3x200Ah Smart Lithium connected via individual ANL fuse holders (CIP106100000) to the Victron 500A busbar (CIP100400060). Three connections.
Question: can I fit the 500A Busbar over the bolts of the ANL fuse holders (as Victron shows for the "Modular fuse holder MEGA fuse (CIP100200100))? To avoid a squeezed fit, could use holes 1, 3 & 5 of busbar.
From this Busbar, I would also connect (possibly on the opposite side):
- Multiplus via a 250A or 300A MEGA fuse (max continuous current for Multiplus 2000 is 160A) using the "Fuse Holder for MEGA fuse (CIP100100001)" .
Question: is this OK, or must/should I use instead the (blue interlocking) "Modular fuse holder Mega fuse (CIP100200100)"?
- DC Loads via a Smart Battery Protect 220 - same question as for Multiplus on the use of the fuse holder.
Second Busbar (mainly for Chargers) would be also the Victron 500A busbar (CIP100400060).
Question: can I use the "Fuse Holder for Mega fuses (CIP100100001)" with this busbar?
Can I inter-connect both Victron 500A busbars (CIP100400060) using the M10 bolt (i.e. both busbars 'join' at M10 hole and then use the provided M10 stainless bolt or a slightly longer one).
I have considered in some detail using the Lynx PowerIn or Distributor, but I do not want/need any of the negative busbar connections as my boat already has an extensive Negative Main Busbar and I don't want to be cutting and re-crimping over 20 cables!. And the Lynx only has 4 (max 5) studs for Mega fuse connections, and I need more.
The Lynx Power In, like the Distributor, are advertised with an intensity of 1000A. Without going into the technical details of scientific calculation, we take an average of 1.2A per mm2 (maximum of 3A per mm2 according to the calculation bases of one of the 3 world leaders in professional electrical boxes and safety for busbars). However, the two Lynx have a bar of 30 * 8 mm. This gives 240 mm2. We multiply by the technical average of 1.2 and the result is 288A, or by the maximum of 3, the result is 720A, but never the 1000A. Do you have more information to send me on this subject? Thanks in advance.
The height of my main on/off switch and bus bar are different - approximately 1/8 inch. I would like to make a custom link bus bar to connect the switch and bus bar as well as a smart shunt and negative bus bar. I am thinking about using 101 copper bar 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide. Is 1 inch bar appropriate to carry a max of 400-500 amps? I don’t know if I can find 1.25 width bar. Should I strongly consider 1.5 inch wide bar? Next question; can I cut a 6 inch piece of bar and bend it to accommodate the difference in height between the two components without increasing the resistance? I’m thinking a slight “S” curve in the copper bar.
I added a splitter USB so now I have a shunt connect as DC meter for wind via ve.bus-usb since by ve.bus ports however in advance I cannot see that to select widget for the data dashboard I can see other devices shunt, mppt, usb-gps but not this device. can someone help
I have 2 48v server rack batteries (eg4) which I want to wire in parallel to a smartshunt. In the eg4 manual it says not to jumper the batteries in parallel, rather use a properly rated busbar to connect them in parallel to avoid large currents and overheating in the end wires, so I want to try to avoid diagonal method of paralleling.
So my question is this:
In my case because its only 2 batteries, can I just connect the 2 negative wires to the battery end of the smartShunt? Its not 4 batteries which would warrant a whole busbar, really just 2 5 awg wires connected directly to the shunt, using the shunt as a "post"...
I know its kindof "abuse" but is it really necessary for me to add a busbar?
And then while I'm at it, I have the same question for the positive side... Can I just attach the 2 positive wires directly to a t class fuse?
In the continuation of the system I will have of course a lynx distributor, I'm just wondering if I can avoid adding 2 possibly unnecessary busbars to my system...
I've already done a couple of installations which all runs fine. I always stick to the "Unlimited wiring" guide for best DC / AC cabling. Normally there is plenty of space to have one big battery bank with equal DC lengths (f.e. multiple Pylontech + Victron Lynx).
Now I will install a bigger bank on a boat (catamaran) and would like to know which way would be best. Both options have pros & cons, maybe there is a third option I don't have in mind.
There is a bit space in each hull and in the middle of the catamaran. Which makes me have 4 spaces for the batteries.
Each battery pack will have it's own BMS. In total the battery will consist of 144x 280Ah Lifepo cells.
Keep in mind that in the schematic are no fuses and kill switches. Surely they will be add in the installation.
The normal use during driving will most likely draw only 2-4 kW in total. But the system has to be capable of maintaining 6kW to both engines over a couple of hours if necessary.
Left Option like Page 19 at wiring unlimited "Diagonally":
- should make equal current on all banks
- only one battery monitor (shunt)
- horrible long cables, about 28m for each + and - cable to the bus bar. Another 9m for each engine (just 125A)
- a couple of volts drop even with 120mm2 cable
Right Option like Page 19 at wiring unlimited "Busbars":
In this case the cable itself is the busbar.
- shorter cables
- 4 batteries in Victron System (not a problem at all, monitoring will be through (modified) MarineMFD App on a Raymarine MFD)
- unequal usage of batteries
- batteries in hulls will be discharged faster and get less charge than center batteries!?
I think (hope) last point shouldn't be a problem when laying on anchor the banks should be equalling themself, right?
Anyone tested this?
I also had the idea to build real separate banks and use Orion 48/48 to charge the banks for the engines. But the Orions are really getting only near 90% efficiency and I think that is a bit to much inefficient as the engines will be the biggest consumers.
The Wiring Unlimited guide says that all DC consumers (load) need an individual fuse. I have about 10 DC consumers that I was planning on splitting into 3 groups and have an appropriate sized breaker for each of the 3 groups. Is this sufficient, or do I still need fuses on all 10 individual consumers? Also, is there any disadvantage to have the individual fuse right after the positive comes off the positive bus bar than directly before the load (consideration for changing blown fuses)?
Hi all, I've designed my system to have three (3) PV arrays (one east facing, one west, and one south - all 18v max @ 100w) - the eccentricities of the area required this odd combination to achieve the desired output. I have three SmartSolar MPPT 75/15s that I intend to connect to a Cerbo GX with VE.Direct cables. It is my understanding that I need the Cerbo with arrays facing different orientations and drastically different performance throughout the day. All of my loads will be 12v DC, so I will not be using an inverter. I had initially planned on doing a separate busbar out of the load side of each controller, then connecting a group of loads to each of those busbars. But I have seen a few schematics where multiple arrays have one positive and one negative bus bar for the entire system. I want to take advantage of the controller load output to regulate the load for sensitive electronics. Is there anything wrong with doing separate busbars for the load out on each controller or am I missing an important feature/benefit to combining the busbars. Thanks in advance.
For organizational purposes, I'm thinking of running my positive and negative battery cables to opposite ends of my Lynx Distributor. I can run them to the same side if necessary, but the way things are set up and given where the battery terminals are in relation to the Lynx, it would be easiest, most organized, and shortest cable runs to have the positive attached to one end, and the negative to the other.
I'm thinking this should be totally fine, they are essentially two separate busbars after all. Does anyone see an issue with this setup? Positive will obviously be fused at the battery and have a switch before the distributor, negative will have smartshunt.
sorry if this question is somewhat amateur however could somebody please check my wiring intentions regarding BMV-712 Smart?
I have two 12 V | C20 | 200 Ah lead acid batteries connected in parallel via a busbar (cables of equal length to balance resistance).
If I've understood correctly, the shunt 'Battery -In' should connect to the negative busbar whilst B1 should connect to the positive busbar.
The battery capacity should be set to 400 Ah in the App.
If my understanding is correct B2 (Aux) can't be used to measure the Midpoint as my battery bank is 12 V; could however the temperature probe could be used to measure the batteries via the positive busbar?
Below is a sketch of my intended set-up.
I have a Deye 12kw inverter that uses 10x Pylontech 3000C batteries and is connected with a 250A fused disconnect. Because of the limitations of the Pylontech battery cables I want to double my charge rate to 200A. Can I use the Victron Power In as a busbar without fuses using the fused disconnect that I already have or is it better to remove the fused disconnect and modify the Power In to take fuses or buy something like the Lynx Distributor?
When I turn on (close) the battery disconnect to power the lynx distributor the 125A 48V (Victron) fuse blows on the battery connection In the Lynx. The only thing connected to the bus bars on the lynx distributor distributor is the inverter and the batteries. I checked and rechecked polarity and everything is correct. The 48v batteries are reading 53V. The inverter is off. A smart shunt if correctly installed between the bat negative and the negative bus bar on the distributor. The shunt bat plus and aux cables are connected to the bat pos terminal and the mid point positive. As far as I can tell everything is connected properly and secure and there is no reverse polarity. What would cause the fuse to blow When the Disconnect is closed (on) and the distributor is powered?
Can the Lynx Distributor (LD) ground nut be used for multiple ground connections like a bus bar, and then earth ground that connection to my AC service panel. I have a Multiplus II, MPPT Charge controller both chasis grounded on the LD grounding lug. I want to add my battery ground to the LD ground nut and then earth ground the LD to the grounding bus bar in my AC service panel. I'm following local codes but want to be sure this is a permissible connection. Also, I'm using the SmartShunt, would I ground the neg bat terminal or one of the terminals on the shunt instead. Thank you, any insight or opinions (regardless of code) is appreciated.