Hi I’m looking at going a Busbar route for connected 2 possibly three US5000 Pylontec batteries, what I aim to do is have a neg and pos bus bar wired in parallel would that setup be ok load balancing/charging.

The issue that I have is I can only get 125amp mega fuses aim is to fuse each battery separately but that 125amp is above the max amps that the manufacture states. The recommended Amps is 80amps per battery but seen as I’m theatrically splitting it per battery 125amp safety fuse is too much? Not so clued up on DC side as much as AC. Advise please

Hello there !

Forgive my "french" english but I'm hoping to find an answer here.

I am working on a 1908 Steel boat, doing everything. I plan on using a Multiplus II 24v, a Smart Solar 150/60, Orion Tr Smart to charge the service battery via the alternator, galvanic isolator, with all the fuses and protection needed, and a Cerbo GX.

My questions are : Do I need to use the hull of the boat as a mass for all of my DC current? To share an equipotential point or is it better to isolate the service (lights pumps etc) and having the motor side connected to the hull (connected to the - of the starter motor so the hull).

I know that in the US it is mandatory to connect the hull with the negatives of the batteries but it isn't in France and I wonder why...

About the AC current, with the shore power, my earth/ground is provided by the shore, I get it. But when sailing, where is driven the current if a fault occurs? I know that the multiplus has a Ground wire, is that it? And so, this Ground wire has to be connected to the hull or to my negative Busbar? I read about the ground relay that switch to the neutral, might be a stupid question but should I connect a neutral wire to the hull/negative busbar?

I tried to find a solution on the internet but I read something and then the reverse 3 min later... I plan to live on this boat with my wife and my son and I want it to be as safe as possible.

Thanks for your time, I am really worried about this.

Baptiste

Hi,
I am looking for cad model (3D) of the following parts either in .step/.stp format or .iges
1. VBB1150600320 -- Bus bar 150A, 6 Studs along with cover
2. VBB1150400320 -- Bus Bar 150A, 4Studs Cove,

[image]

Does anybody know if there is a metal bridge of some kind properly rated to combined 3 Victron 4 terminal bus bars together to make a 12 terminal bus bar? Many thanks in advance.

I have 3 Mppt controllers with a Victron ET 112 Energy meter via a USB ac powered hub

using VE Direct to USB hub converters

as the GX has only one usb Port and one VE Direct port

the 1 Mppt goes direct to the VE Direct port

the Et112 and 2 x MPPT go via the USB powered hub into the USB port

every time the power fails ac in and comes on again i loose the 1 or 2 MPPT saying no device

if we reboot the GX device it shows up again

we dont want the expense of installing a full on Cerbo GX device

anybody have simalr issues it is very annoying having to reset all the time

[image]

Hi,
I am wondering why we should use 70v/250A busbar instead of a 70v/250A fuse holder ?
The busbar is usually twice the price and I don't understand why.
Any advice there ?
Thanks a lot.

I purchased 3 x 200Ah (12V) Smart Lithium batteries to replace the AGMs on my boat. Also purchased the VE Bus BMS v2, Lynx Distributor, and already have Cerbo, Multiplus, etc. The batteries are to be connected in parallel.

Section 4.6.4 of the Smart Lithium manual has a schematic showing connection of parallel batteries individually to busbars with a fuse on the positive cable (for cable protection). Question: could this be a MRBF fuse on the battery post? Would a MRBF fuse be better than using a Mega fuse (has much higher Interrupt Capacity)?

Further, this section also states that "connect the cables diagonally to ensure equal current path through each battery". This arrangement would be far easier (than the busbar method) in my constrained location. Is this equally acceptable for paralleling 3 batteries? And can/should I place a MRBF fuse at each positive terminal post (I have never seen a schematic or video of this!), or simply connect the cables post-to-post, and then have a T-fuse (or ANL fuse), very close to the batteries, on the cable to the Lynx Distributor (for DC Loads & Chargers)?

Thank you for feedback and suggestions.

Hi,

In the Wiring Unlimited document is said "When wiring the system please make sure that the cross-section of the connection between the batteries and the DC distribution point equals the sum of the required cross-sections of the connections between the distribution point and the DC equipment". Does this mean if i have 5 wires of 16mm2 the section of the wire between the battery and the BusBar has to be of 16*5=80mm2?

And what is the section to connect 2 busbars?

Thanks

Hi,

I'm finalising my schematic for moving from AGM to Smart Lithium 3 x 200Ah (12V). System also has Multiplus 2000, Cerbo, SmartShunt, MPPTs, additional Phoenix charger, etc. I'm looking how to best create the Positive Main Busbar. Here is the current plan and questions:

- 3x200Ah Smart Lithium connected via individual ANL fuse holders (CIP106100000) to the Victron 500A busbar (CIP100400060). Three connections.

Question: can I fit the 500A Busbar over the bolts of the ANL fuse holders (as Victron shows for the "Modular fuse holder MEGA fuse (CIP100200100))? To avoid a squeezed fit, could use holes 1, 3 & 5 of busbar.

From this Busbar, I would also connect (possibly on the opposite side):

- Multiplus via a 250A or 300A MEGA fuse (max continuous current for Multiplus 2000 is 160A) using the "Fuse Holder for MEGA fuse (CIP100100001)" .

Question: is this OK, or must/should I use instead the (blue interlocking) "Modular fuse holder Mega fuse (CIP100200100)"?

- DC Loads via a Smart Battery Protect 220 - same question as for Multiplus on the use of the fuse holder.

Second Busbar (mainly for Chargers) would be also the Victron 500A busbar (CIP100400060).

Question: can I use the "Fuse Holder for Mega fuses (CIP100100001)" with this busbar?

Last question:

Can I inter-connect both Victron 500A busbars (CIP100400060) using the M10 bolt (i.e. both busbars 'join' at M10 hole and then use the provided M10 stainless bolt or a slightly longer one).

I have considered in some detail using the Lynx PowerIn or Distributor, but I do not want/need any of the negative busbar connections as my boat already has an extensive Negative Main Busbar and I don't want to be cutting and re-crimping over 20 cables!. And the Lynx only has 4 (max 5) studs for Mega fuse connections, and I need more.

Thank you,

JM

The Lynx Power In, like the Distributor, are advertised with an intensity of 1000A. Without going into the technical details of scientific calculation, we take an average of 1.2A per mm2 (maximum of 3A per mm2 according to the calculation bases of one of the 3 world leaders in professional electrical boxes and safety for busbars). However, the two Lynx have a bar of 30 * 8 mm. This gives 240 mm2. We multiply by the technical average of 1.2 and the result is 288A, or by the maximum of 3, the result is 720A, but never the 1000A. Do you have more information to send me on this subject? Thanks in advance.

The height of my main on/off switch and bus bar are different - approximately 1/8 inch. I would like to make a custom link bus bar to connect the switch and bus bar as well as a smart shunt and negative bus bar. I am thinking about using 101 copper bar 1/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide. Is 1 inch bar appropriate to carry a max of 400-500 amps? I don’t know if I can find 1.25 width bar. Should I strongly consider 1.5 inch wide bar? Next question; can I cut a 6 inch piece of bar and bend it to accommodate the difference in height between the two components without increasing the resistance? I’m thinking a slight “S” curve in the copper bar.

I added a splitter USB so now I have a shunt connect as DC meter for wind via ve.bus-usb since by ve.bus ports however in advance I cannot see that to select widget for the data dashboard I can see other devices shunt, mppt, usb-gps but not this device. can someone help

I have 2 48v server rack batteries (eg4) which I want to wire in parallel to a smartshunt. In the eg4 manual it says not to jumper the batteries in parallel, rather use a properly rated busbar to connect them in parallel to avoid large currents and overheating in the end wires, so I want to try to avoid diagonal method of paralleling.

So my question is this:

In my case because its only 2 batteries, can I just connect the 2 negative wires to the battery end of the smartShunt? Its not 4 batteries which would warrant a whole busbar, really just 2 5 awg wires connected directly to the shunt, using the shunt as a "post"...

I know its kindof "abuse" but is it really necessary for me to add a busbar?

And then while I'm at it, I have the same question for the positive side... Can I just attach the 2 positive wires directly to a t class fuse?

In the continuation of the system I will have of course a lynx distributor, I'm just wondering if I can avoid adding 2 possibly unnecessary busbars to my system...

Hey there,

I've already done a couple of installations which all runs fine. I always stick to the "Unlimited wiring" guide for best DC / AC cabling. Normally there is plenty of space to have one big battery bank with equal DC lengths (f.e. multiple Pylontech + Victron Lynx).

Now I will install a bigger bank on a boat (catamaran) and would like to know which way would be best. Both options have pros & cons, maybe there is a third option I don't have in mind.

There is a bit space in each hull and in the middle of the catamaran. Which makes me have 4 spaces for the batteries.

Each battery pack will have it's own BMS. In total the battery will consist of 144x 280Ah Lifepo cells.

Keep in mind that in the schematic are no fuses and kill switches. Surely they will be add in the installation.

The normal use during driving will most likely draw only 2-4 kW in total. But the system has to be capable of maintaining 6kW to both engines over a couple of hours if necessary.

Left Option like Page 19 at wiring unlimited "Diagonally":

Pros:

- should make equal current on all banks

- only one battery monitor (shunt)

Cons:

- horrible long cables, about 28m for each + and - cable to the bus bar. Another 9m for each engine (just 125A)

- a couple of volts drop even with 120mm2 cable

Right Option like Page 19 at wiring unlimited "Busbars":

In this case the cable itself is the busbar.

Pro:

- shorter cables

Cons:

- 4 batteries in Victron System (not a problem at all, monitoring will be through (modified) MarineMFD App on a Raymarine MFD)

- unequal usage of batteries
- batteries in hulls will be discharged faster and get less charge than center batteries!?

I think (hope) last point shouldn't be a problem when laying on anchor the banks should be equalling themself, right?

Anyone tested this?

I also had the idea to build real separate banks and use Orion 48/48 to charge the banks for the engines. But the Orions are really getting only near 90% efficiency and I think that is a bit to much inefficient as the engines will be the biggest consumers.

Schematic:

[image]

The Wiring Unlimited guide says that all DC consumers (load) need an individual fuse. I have about 10 DC consumers that I was planning on splitting into 3 groups and have an appropriate sized breaker for each of the 3 groups. Is this sufficient, or do I still need fuses on all 10 individual consumers? Also, is there any disadvantage to have the individual fuse right after the positive comes off the positive bus bar than directly before the load (consideration for changing blown fuses)?