I had an old diesel heater wired directly to the house batteries. I could monitor heater amp draw on my 712 quite easily. I replaced the diesel heater, and added a Blue Seas fuse block, to which I connected the heater. The negative (ground) for the heater still was connected to the house battery.
When I run the new heater, I am not able to see amp draw on my battery monitor. All other devices (lights, pumps etc.) display the amp draw.
The first thing I will do is connect the heater back to the battery directly and not use the fuse block (I will try this tomorrow). Does anybody have any other ideas on how to troubleshoot?
[image]I'm still trying to figure out if anymore mistakes have been made in a Professional install? The last couple days in Quartzite AZ it's been full sun. I noticed in monitoring the Victron app when the voltage goes up the amps from the panels goes down? And it looks like a EKG every second or 2 I see one go up and the other down this continues until the sun is gone. I'm also concerned they didn't wire something correctly because before the solar I had a factory installed 1000 Watt inverter that kept the residential refrigerator going off 2 75 AH lead batteries. These 2 batteries could power the fridge and Starlink for 8+ hour's before the inverter shut down. After having the system for almost a week I haven't been able to get the 2 Battle Born Game changers past 70% on solar only and have had to run a generator for 2-3 hours to get them to 100% before we would retire for the night. I'm seeing 500+ Watts from the 800 watts of panels parallel/serial but should the voltage and Amps be swapping like This? Could this be why I'm not getting a full charge off the solar? I haven't been on the roof yet to check the connections. I found a few oversights already on the ground like the tension reliefs inside the Multi plus II were not tightened at all leaving the 120v wires are risk of coming loose from vibration during towing of the camper. What should I look for that could be causing this? I'm not going back to the place it was installed at the guy who worked on this part of it cops and additude when I find mistakes I bring to there attention. They even tried to keep parts I needed like the termination jacks. So I'm just going to have to check everything myself and fix it. You can see how much power I've generated over the past few days. The only thing running is the fridge, a TV , small Roku on the TVs USB power and a Starlink. The Starlink maxes out at 80-90 watts, the fridge 200w when running and the TV about 60 watts. Maybe I just need a few more panels? Sorry it's so long I don't know how else to explain what's happening after dropping $15k I should have done it myself.
My Orion Tr Smart 12/12-30 Charger runs hot, and the output current folds back considerably. Anyone else with this problem? When cold, it will output 33A. When hot, it will fold back to 26A or less. Parts of the case may exceed 134dg F, in a cool (60dg F) environment. By adding a 80CFM fan above the fins, the case temperature is lowered by 20 degrees F, and the unit will continuosly output 30A. It would appear that the heat sink is undersized. Comments?
[image]I recently upgraded my RV to LifePo batteries (two 100AH). While doing so I upgraded the converter/charger to WFCO’s auto sensing unit. I also installed a Victron Smart Shunt. I fairly quickly discovered a now known issue where the WFCO unit does not do a good job of actually detecting lithium properly and never goes into a proper bulk mode. This means that I would never see more than about 10-11 amps while charging. Once the batteries would eventually reach full charge it would float and maintain 13.6 volts and a fairly consistent small positive amperage to the battery according to the Smart Shunt (this is from my memory).
Because of the low charging amperage issue, I decided to remove the WFCO converter/charger and purchased two Victron IP22 30Amp Smart chargers. I was able to place them within 5 feet of the batteries where the WFCO unit had been over 20 feet away. I hooked them all up and was thrilled that they delivered 55+ amps during bulk mode.
Unfortunately, I have discovered something that strikes me as odd once they go into float mode. The voltage stays fairly consistent with only very small fluctuations like 13.49 to 13.51 volts using the lithium setting. However, the amps bounce around like crazy. They fluctuate from around -1 to +2 constantly. As in, they will bounce around in that range a couple of times every second. I have attached a screen shot showing this behavior in the trends area of the app. I have a small load present at nearly all times for my RV.
Is this normal? I am 99.9% sure I did not see this behavior when I was using the WFCO unit. Are the IP22’s not well suited for the task I am asking them to do?
Things I have tried with no change. I have removed all items from the VE network, unplugged each of the two IP22’s one at a time to see if one of them was behaving badly, changed from the lithium preset to custom ones trying float voltages of 13.6 and 13.8, added slightly more draw by turning on lights inside the RV.
Watt from Solar-
How to know the total of watt generated before the reduction?
i understand that the SmartSolar will send only Watt-Volts-Amp when the batteries need it but i am curious to know what is the value before.. directly coming out of the panel
I have 10 panels, 40 volt, 5.6 amp and 5.9 short circuit amp. I want to configure it to be 80 volts 28 amps. I read that the max short circuit amps the unit can take is 20A, what does that mean and how would I trigger that (would simply connecting the panels destroy the unit or does there need to be a short somewhere?)
In short, would I be able to connect 80 volts at 28 amps to my 100/20 mppt?
I have a BMV-700 with bluetooth dongle on a Boat. The shunt is wired to the negative feed of the house bank which is 500Ah of LifePO4. The B2 BMV-700 input is to the AGM Starter battery voltage. This used to work okay with a previous FLA house bank (since replaced). There is a 70/15 MPPT controller connected to the LifePO4 and another MPPT(not Victron) connected to the AGM via their own fuses.
I have tried repeatedly zeroing it with nothing connected (ie loads switched off and MPPT fuse removed). A clamp meter and the LifePO4 BMS both confirm zero amps at this time.
The shunt seems very inaccurate. It swings wildly up to +/-7A when nothing is on. Voltage for both house lifePO4 and starter AGM are fine. Yesterday, in rare UK sun, the MPPT was putting in 12A and the shunt read 0 Amps.
What could confuse the Amp reading? Could there be interference on the data cable OR the shunt B1/B2 cables (both are original length and near other cables).
Do I need a new PCB?
Wow... I've read a LOT of great info on this site. But there are a lot of numbers and my pea-sized brain still has a couple of questions. Here's what I know: (Please correct anything I've misunderstood!)
* Panels in SERIES Voltages add, and current remains the same, while for panels in PARALLEL their Amps add together and voltages remain the same.
* Battery charging begins once the panel Voltage is more than 5V above the voltage of the battery.
* SmartSolar controllers can handle more amps from the panel(s) than indicated by their model numbers - they just don't push more than that charge into the battery above the limit (eg my SmartSolar 75/15 will limit Amps into the battery to 15A
* Voltage indicated by the model number (eg 75V for my SmartSolar75/15) is a hard limit that will damage the controller if exceeded by the total open circuit voltage stated on the panel(s).
I already have a SmartSolar 75/15 and one 12V 150W panel with these specs:
VOC 22.3V and Vmp 17.9V with max current 8.73A
I currently have a 21V 150Ah AGM battery but plan on replacing it with a 200Ah LiFePO4
I have a second panel the same that is not connected, and the possibility of a separate 310W panel also. Here are the questions:
Assuming I don't want to buy another Charge Controller - 1. If I connect the second 150W panel in Series will I start charging earlier in the day or if its cloudy or partially shaded because the voltages are added and therefore higher earlier in the day than if they were in Parallel?
2. In series voltages add. So 2 panels at Voc 22.3 x 2 = 44.6V This is under the 75Vlimit... any problem with this aspect?
3. In Series the current is the same - since the panels put out 8.73A my 15 A controller wont be close to the max it can push to the battery. Is this a waste of the potential of the panels?
3b. Would It be smarter to put the same 2 panels in parallel, accept that they wont start charging as early in the day or as often in partial shade or cloud but get more amps (which might on rare occasions when everything is perfect exceed 15A since 2 x 8.73A = 17.46A, and therefor be limited to 15 A by the controller)?
4. If i were to replace the 150W panel with a singe 310W 12V ( Voc 40.5V, Imp 9.4A) panel would I get similar results to the total 300W of a 2-panel in parallel setup?
I know there is fair bit here. I hope your answers can not only educate me but also help clarify for future readers who, like me, spent a long time trying to understand this stuff by amalgamating knowledge from previous posts...
I have an MPPT 100/20 48V charge controller connected to a small battery. I would like to track the available Amp output from the panels. The display notates the Voltage, but does not display Amps unless there is flow from panels into the battery (Perhaps I'm misreading this?). Either way, is this possible? I've tried under trends but that also doesn't seem to solve the display.
I've looked for other solutions for active data recording of the Amp output - I'm open to suggestions because I haven't found one. Would ideally like to see both Voltage and Amp current recorded together.
My EasySolar 24/3000/70-50 is connected to 1950w PV array (2s3p), capable to charge the battery 60, 65 amps on sunny days, but sometimes I have to leave it unattended for a week at times. On these occasions I would like to reduce the max. amp output of the MPPT150/70 to say 7, 8 amps just to keep up with the small loads there.
Will the MPPT150/70 be happy to stop the full power of the PV array getting to the battery?
My Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30 Isolated is outputting half or less of its rated amperage to my battery bank, and that amperage falls over the course of a few minutes. With its current performance, its not enough to cover my DC refrigerator (15 amps) and charge the battery bank while I'm driving. What could be causing this?
Here's my setup.
With the truck at idle after 2 minutes, the voltage at the starter battery posts is 13.5v. Input voltage to the cold Orion shows 13.1v. Cold Orion output voltage to the batts is around 13.5v.
Output amperage of the cold Orion as read by the SmartShunt starts at about 18 amps, well below the rated 30 amps. Battery SOC is only 54%. Vehicle is still at idle speed.
Over just 10 minutes, the output amperage slowly falls to as low as 12 amps. At this point, the Orion is barely warm to the touch.
This occurs regardless of engine speed. The following video shows the low amperage output over time even when the engine speed is held at 2600 RPM. High RPM starts at 00:30 in the video.
Likewise, the input voltage to the Orion remains at 13.1v despite holding the engine speed at 2600 RPM.
Where should I begin looking to determine why the output amperage is less than half of rated amperage?
Hi I have 1x 12v 325w solar panel, when we first connected up the system it was working fine, then we had to adjust our van so had to rewire and recrimp, now the solar panel is not charging the battery, no watts, and no amp showing from PV or Battery. We have checked the crimps and they seem to be in order, we had a blown fuse on the wire going to the positive terminal which we have replaced. I have added a 35w load + inverter so there should be a load showing as well which there is not.
Does anyone know what I can do?
I have a the Today the voltage and amps keep going up and down, even if I turn of the power to battery
I have had this installed and working from the middle of November, I have unplugged the cat5 cable the had the dongle plugged to it, any suggestions to fix this ?
I’ve read I need to go through my boat and 1 by 1 turn on all my stuff and measure it’s amp hours of each.
For example , fridge, toilet, anchor light, cockpit lights etc.
But I do I do this ? . Do I just have the fridge runnning and put the multi metre on the battery ? I read I might need to buy a multi metre with an amp clamp. But if I do what do I camp it onto ?
I plan to test the Amp hour of the fridge , then anchorage light, cabin lights, cockpit lights etc . 1 by 1
I’d like to do all these checks before I buy any of the Victron stuff to ensure I get all the right products