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100/20 mppt max amp input?

I have 10 panels, 40 volt, 5.6 amp and 5.9 short circuit amp. I want to configure it to be 80 volts 28 amps. I read that the max short circuit amps the unit can take is 20A, what does that mean and how would I trigger that (would simply connecting the panels destroy the unit or does there need to be a short somewhere?)

In short, would I be able to connect 80 volts at 28 amps to my 100/20 mppt?

bobster asked
kevgermany answered ·

1 Answer

BMV-700 Amp reading inaccurate

I have a BMV-700 with bluetooth dongle on a Boat. The shunt is wired to the negative feed of the house bank which is 500Ah of LifePO4. The B2 BMV-700 input is to the AGM Starter battery voltage. This used to work okay with a previous FLA house bank (since replaced). There is a 70/15 MPPT controller connected to the LifePO4 and another MPPT(not Victron) connected to the AGM via their own fuses.

I have tried repeatedly zeroing it with nothing connected (ie loads switched off and MPPT fuse removed). A clamp meter and the LifePO4 BMS both confirm zero amps at this time.


The shunt seems very inaccurate. It swings wildly up to +/-7A when nothing is on. Voltage for both house lifePO4 and starter AGM are fine. Yesterday, in rare UK sun, the MPPT was putting in 12A and the shunt read 0 Amps.

What could confuse the Amp reading? Could there be interference on the data cable OR the shunt B1/B2 cables (both are original length and near other cables).

Do I need a new PCB?

greg-cope asked
seb71 answered ·

1 Answer

Understanding: Series Vs Parallel for 2 x150W panels with SmartSolar 75/15

Wow... I've read a LOT of great info on this site. But there are a lot of numbers and my pea-sized brain still has a couple of questions. Here's what I know: (Please correct anything I've misunderstood!)

* Panels in SERIES Voltages add, and current remains the same, while for panels in PARALLEL their Amps add together and voltages remain the same.

* Battery charging begins once the panel Voltage is more than 5V above the voltage of the battery.

* SmartSolar controllers can handle more amps from the panel(s) than indicated by their model numbers - they just don't push more than that charge into the battery above the limit (eg my SmartSolar 75/15 will limit Amps into the battery to 15A

* Voltage indicated by the model number (eg 75V for my SmartSolar75/15) is a hard limit that will damage the controller if exceeded by the total open circuit voltage stated on the panel(s).


I already have a SmartSolar 75/15 and one 12V 150W panel with these specs:

VOC 22.3V and Vmp 17.9V with max current 8.73A

I currently have a 21V 150Ah AGM battery but plan on replacing it with a 200Ah LiFePO4


I have a second panel the same that is not connected, and the possibility of a separate 310W panel also. Here are the questions:

Assuming I don't want to buy another Charge Controller - 1. If I connect the second 150W panel in Series will I start charging earlier in the day or if its cloudy or partially shaded because the voltages are added and therefore higher earlier in the day than if they were in Parallel?

2. In series voltages add. So 2 panels at Voc 22.3 x 2 = 44.6V This is under the 75Vlimit... any problem with this aspect?

3. In Series the current is the same - since the panels put out 8.73A my 15 A controller wont be close to the max it can push to the battery. Is this a waste of the potential of the panels?

3b. Would It be smarter to put the same 2 panels in parallel, accept that they wont start charging as early in the day or as often in partial shade or cloud but get more amps (which might on rare occasions when everything is perfect exceed 15A since 2 x 8.73A = 17.46A, and therefor be limited to 15 A by the controller)?

4. If i were to replace the 150W panel with a singe 310W 12V ( Voc 40.5V, Imp 9.4A) panel would I get similar results to the total 300W of a 2-panel in parallel setup?


I know there is fair bit here. I hope your answers can not only educate me but also help clarify for future readers who, like me, spent a long time trying to understand this stuff by amalgamating knowledge from previous posts...




Stephen asked
Stephen commented ·

1 Answer

Tracking Solar Amp Current Output

Hello All,

I have an MPPT 100/20 48V charge controller connected to a small battery. I would like to track the available Amp output from the panels. The display notates the Voltage, but does not display Amps unless there is flow from panels into the battery (Perhaps I'm misreading this?). Either way, is this possible? I've tried under trends but that also doesn't seem to solve the display.

I've looked for other solutions for active data recording of the Amp output - I'm open to suggestions because I haven't found one. Would ideally like to see both Voltage and Amp current recorded together.

Thanks!

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ryan-mack asked

0 Answers

Is reducing the max amp output damaging for a SmartSolar MPPT150/70?

My EasySolar 24/3000/70-50 is connected to 1950w PV array (2s3p), capable to charge the battery 60, 65 amps on sunny days, but sometimes I have to leave it unattended for a week at times. On these occasions I would like to reduce the max. amp output of the MPPT150/70 to say 7, 8 amps just to keep up with the small loads there.

Will the MPPT150/70 be happy to stop the full power of the PV array getting to the battery?

vesko asked
vesko commented ·

2 Answers

Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30 Outputs Less Than Half Amps on 55% SOC LiFePO4. Why?

My Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30 Isolated is outputting half or less of its rated amperage to my battery bank, and that amperage falls over the course of a few minutes. With its current performance, its not enough to cover my DC refrigerator (15 amps) and charge the battery bank while I'm driving. What could be causing this?

Here's my setup.

  • 2017 Toyota Tacoma w/ tow package (130 amp alternator) & travel trailer
  • Two 100Ah Battle Born LiFePO4
  • 6AWG positive and negative wires from starter battery to Orion and from Orion to batteries.
  • Orion S/N 2048 (appears to be post rev. for overheat changes)
  • Settings: Set to "Charger", Default LiFePO4, Smart Alternator, default vehicle shutdown
  • Installation: Open air, 70°F ambient temperature, in upright position
  • Victron SmartShunt

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With the truck at idle after 2 minutes, the voltage at the starter battery posts is 13.5v. Input voltage to the cold Orion shows 13.1v. Cold Orion output voltage to the batts is around 13.5v.

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Output amperage of the cold Orion as read by the SmartShunt starts at about 18 amps, well below the rated 30 amps. Battery SOC is only 54%. Vehicle is still at idle speed.

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Over just 10 minutes, the output amperage slowly falls to as low as 12 amps. At this point, the Orion is barely warm to the touch.

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This occurs regardless of engine speed. The following video shows the low amperage output over time even when the engine speed is held at 2600 RPM. High RPM starts at 00:30 in the video.

https://tv.gab.com/channel/robertknowlton/view/troubleshooting-victron-orion-tr-smart-1212-30-dc-6132bd320c5416cc4db8f256

Likewise, the input voltage to the Orion remains at 13.1v despite holding the engine speed at 2600 RPM.

https://tv.gab.com/channel/robertknowlton/view/troubleshooting-victron-orion-tr-smart-1212-30-dc-6133879c3beab6d020fd5a9f

Where should I begin looking to determine why the output amperage is less than half of rated amperage?


Bob K asked
kevgermany commented ·

3 Answers

No charging, watts or amps

Hi I have 1x 12v 325w solar panel, when we first connected up the system it was working fine, then we had to adjust our van so had to rewire and recrimp, now the solar panel is not charging the battery, no watts, and no amp showing from PV or Battery. We have checked the crimps and they seem to be in order, we had a blown fuse on the wire going to the positive terminal which we have replaced. I have added a 35w load + inverter so there should be a load showing as well which there is not.

Does anyone know what I can do?

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mark-davison asked
Warwick Bruce Chapman answered ·

2 Answers

Voltage bouncing up and down with MultiPlus 3000VA 12-Volt

I have a the Victron Energy MultiPlus 3000VA 12-Volt Pure Sine Wave Inverter and 120 amp Battery Charger, Today the voltage and amps keep going up and down, even if I turn of the power to battery

I have had this installed and working from the middle of November, I have unplugged the cat5 cable the had the dongle plugged to it, any suggestions to fix this ?



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sprinter2023 asked
sprinter2023 commented ·

2 Answers

How to measure amp hours on my boat

I’ve read I need to go through my boat and 1 by 1 turn on all my stuff and measure it’s amp hours of each.


For example , fridge, toilet, anchor light, cockpit lights etc.


But I do I do this ? . Do I just have the fridge runnning and put the multi metre on the battery ? I read I might need to buy a multi metre with an amp clamp. But if I do what do I camp it onto ?

I plan to test the Amp hour of the fridge , then anchorage light, cabin lights, cockpit lights etc . 1 by 1


I’d like to do all these checks before I buy any of the Victron stuff to ensure I get all the right products

businessjett asked
kevgermany commented ·

1 Answer

Lynx Power In really 1000A ?

The Lynx Power In, like the Distributor, are advertised with an intensity of 1000A. Without going into the technical details of scientific calculation, we take an average of 1.2A per mm2 (maximum of 3A per mm2 according to the calculation bases of one of the 3 world leaders in professional electrical boxes and safety for busbars). However, the two Lynx have a bar of 30 * 8 mm. This gives 240 mm2. We multiply by the technical average of 1.2 and the result is 288A, or by the maximum of 3, the result is 720A, but never the 1000A. Do you have more information to send me on this subject? Thanks in advance.

myhomebuzz asked
myhomebuzz commented ·

2 Answers

MPPT 150/85 shows voltage but doesn't see current / wattage and doesn't charge

I need some advice. I have a MPPT 150/85 MC4 unit. I recently set this up and I have three banks of 4 panels in series (100w / ~18V panels). The charge controller is brand new out of the box (albeit in storage a few months) only opened a few days ago. All functions seem to work on the controller itself.


I've done my due diligence with the wiring, polarity, and confirmed each bank of panels has the expected voltage. Here's the report and I can produce the settings file for anyone if that's useful. VictronConnet_report.log

It's 9am on a sunny Saturday here in Arizona. I'm seeing 73-90 volts and no current or wattage. The batteries are calling for a charge (12VDC, bank of 4 - 6 V flooded batteries wired in series parallel). I've even reset my settings to default and even reset the unit (disconnecting all input, using battery disconnect switch I installed in the battery bay).


Did I miss something? The panels work. The CC works. The batteries are new and working to produce power for the 12V system with no issues. I've scoured the manuals to see if I missed a step but I don't see anything that I missed.


Did I get a dud? If so, how do I get support from Victron?


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whitewhale asked
Adam Hanafi commented ·

3 Answers

Orion DC-DC overheating

My Orion Tr Smart 12/12-30 Charger runs hot, and the output current folds back considerably. Anyone else with this problem? When cold, it will output 33A. When hot, it will fold back to 26A or less. Parts of the case may exceed 134dg F, in a cool (60dg F) environment. By adding a 80CFM fan above the fins, the case temperature is lowered by 20 degrees F, and the unit will continuosly output 30A. It would appear that the heat sink is undersized. Comments?

mdbrown asked
tom-dv commented ·

7 Answers

Mppt 1-3a current drain from battery with nothing except mppt connected

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Hi team! Ive run my two 260ah leisure batterys very low… my fault! But i noticed a constant drain of 3a current from the batterys even when ONLY the mppt controller is on the batterys… any ideas? Thx

julesspinner asked
shaneyake answered ·

1 Answer

BMV700 current showing high discharge

This installation is on an electric vehicle. This is the second vehicle built and the first one also had a BMV700 installed.

It has 12 AGM 12 volt batteries arranged in 4 banks of 3 for an output of 48V.

The problems are the voltage reads several volts (around 3 volts) lower than the actual battery voltage, and the current on the monitor read -799A.

The amps will change when I turn on the rest of the system, but it only fluctuates down to about -729 amps.

Battery power goes to an unswitched fuse block, 1 amp fuse to the shunt positive.

Shunt is connected to battery, then out to main contactor.

I am just looking at the system without turning on main contactor.

Battery voltage is 53.8V (read with multimeter), and BMV700 reads 50.6V.

Amps read -799.

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limerock asked
limerock answered ·

1 Answer

Losing Amps??

Hello,

I have an off grid fixed system with no AC in, connected to 4 battleborne batteries in parallel to a Lynx Power In. Its about 9 feet (2 feet using 2 AWG to Lynx then 7 feet much thicker 4/0 AWG) from the actual batteries to a Multiplus 12/3000/120.

When I look at the display for the inverter inside VictronConnect software app under "current" for the AC OUT it will display around 1amp, but under battery "current" it will say from 5-7amps.

Is this actual loss? And if so is that a normal loss rate?

I have networked my MPPT, shunt, and inverter. And I'm pretty sure all my settings are correct BattleBorne guided me through it.

mikedonner asked
mikedonner commented ·

1 Answer

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