I'm hoping the collective mind can help me here.

I've just purchased a Mutliplus-II 12/3000/120, the 230v version as I'm UK based, for my campervan. I think I'm clued up and understanding the 12v side of things, but the AC side of things has got me all confused. Rest assured that I will be getting my system signed-off by a qualified electrician before using it, but I'm hoping to save some money by wiring it all myself so I need to order all of the consumer units, RCDs, MCBs, RCBOs and/or RCCBs but there seems to be very little on the web (unless I'm missing something!) that tells me exactly what's needed, and/or what I do read is conflicted on the next webpage that I read.

Here's what I'll have in my system...

• Mutliplus-II 12/3000/120 - 230v
• Digital Multi Control 200/200A GX
• 3000kw inverter generator (max 13a output)
• shore connection

Here's what I think I need to purchase...

• AC-In
  • RCD (32 Amp, Type A) - for shore power input
  • RCD (32 Amp, Type A) - for generator input
  • both above will feed a 2-way changeover switch
  • MCB (32 Amp, Curve C) - Multiplus
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - one socket
    
    
• AC-Out 1 (inverter and gen/shore passthrough, max 45 Amps)
  • RCD (63 Amp, Type A)
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - passenger's side sockets
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - driver's side sockets
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - front sockets
    
    
• AC-Out 2 (gen/shore supply only, max 32 Amps)
  • RCD (32 Amp, Type A)
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - hot water heater
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - vehicle battery charger
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - TBC

Have I understood correctly? If not, please can someone tell me what's wrong and what I should order instead?

In case it helps in any way, here's a picture of my wiring diagram (yes, I know, I have too much time on my hands!) - if you open it in a new window you will be able to zoom in.

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Thanks in advance!

Easysolar gx 2 48v

3800w (10 panels on 2 strings of 5 x 380w) mppt 250/70 35a

i have fused inline with 15a on the phase on both and schokty diodes after the fuses, these goto y branch connectors. Then a disconnect dc breaker, SPD then easysolar gx 2 inverter 3000 48v.

If the datasheet states voltage max 30 A per MC4 connection and have the 2 inlines @ 15a and then combined 32a disconnect is the voltage 250v x 1.2 combines or two strings combined x 1.2 ?

The datasheet stated 250v coldest conditions. I also have a z beny rotary disconnect which is somewhat puzzling if anyone knows how i put phase and neutral in and out of the disconnect (for 2 pole I cannot see how I can wire through image 2

thanks

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Hi!

First of all apologies for my ignorance on this topic, I'm trying the DIY :) I hope this diagram helps...

Battery charger: Victron Energy Blue Power Charger IP22 3 Outputs 12V

Questions:

• Are the Positive busbar(s) correct? Is it possible to wire it like this with the objective of charging 2 batteries from 1 Victron Output?
• What would be the size of the wire (AWG) I would need for the positive connections? I saw 6AWG for a distance of 8 feet. Is that correct?
• Would be the size also for the wires in section2 (blue rectangle)?
• The fuses should be 30A?

Thank you in advance!

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Hi there, the Victron wiring diagram shows a lead going from the alternator, to the vehicle battery, then to the DCDC charger (all fused of course). Have seen a few install videos showing a direct line from the main to the DCDC.

Question, can I install this way - or do I need to have a wire running from the alternator as well?

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I plan on running 2awg cable from the alternator connection to a "LittleFuse" 1-3 way fused distributor (image attached), then from the distributor to each charger via 6awg cable. I'm not certain stepping down from 2awg to 6awg is the best idea, but if that's ok, please let me know.

I’m getting ready to install a Multi Plus 3K and Cerbo GX system. I’m using Ancor ferrules on all the battery terminals. Is it a best practice to use ferrules on all other stranded wire connections such as the main in and out?

Hi everyone - I'm currently working out the gauges for my wiring and I'm super confused when it comes to length calculations. I've read that I should be doubling the length of the cable to account of both positive & negative when referring to cable guage charts, but does this only apply for 2 core cables?

For example, if I have a lighting run that is 6m from the source that is 2 core, is that 12m?

But if I have separate positive and negative cables that run for 6m do they both count as 12m or do I stick to a 6m calculation for each cable as they are separate?

Thanks!

I have built a battery box with a 12 volt 50ah agm battery.

I would like to charge the battery via the "Victron Orion 24/12 5A"
(It's a non isolated model. But does have + - wires for input and a + - wires for the output.) Via the cars 12 volt Cig socket. The charging does work.
However what I am finding is. The car thinks the alternator is still going when the car
is off and we go to lock the doors. What happens is the doors won't lock.
I beleive the car thinks this because the 2nd battery has 13+ volts in it.
And that voltage is going back through the "Victron Orion 24/12 5A".
I can detect the 2nd battery on the output side of the "Victron Orion 24/12 5A" through the input side of the "Victron Orion 24/12 5A".

I need to run a possible solution via this group.
A simple diode on the input positive side would stop the back feed.
I don't want to put the diode on the output side because this might affect the DC/DC charger algerithims. (It does with other smart chargers I have used.)

Do you have any suggestions/comments.

These two Victron wiring diagrams leave me confused whether one is wrong or both are correct, specifically with regard to whether to connect the positive or negative midpoints together. I assume they are both acceptable but seek confirmation before I pick one:

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I would like to connect my MP2 to the main circuit board of the house in a manner that is shown in this diagram I found on Youtube. Namely, AC-IN goes to the Board input in addition to the Grid input.

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Basically, I want MP2 to work like UPS for the whole house. It charges batteries when the grid is on and pushes power via the same wires back when the grid is off.

As I know MP2 will stop feeding the grid when it detects that it's off.

I would add some protection that automatically disconnects the mains on power off so that the inverter energy does not leave the house. Thus Anti-Islanding is covered.

In other words, if that bidirectional feature of Victron can be used to not sell the power back, I don't have any PV to generate but to leverage it to simplify its connection to the existing circuitry.

Is that possible?

I'm putting together plans to add solar to my RV and I think I have figured out what I need, but have one open question. I'll be splicing-in the the new power system to the existing AC input line.

Question is: do I need a 30A circuit breaker added to my schematic? The shore power will come out of a 30A breaker, and there's a 30A main breaker on the existing AC/DC distribution panel.

So is it necessary to add yet another breaker where I'm splicing-in the Multiplus?

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Hi all,

I will build a net metering system with 5kw of Solar panels and 5kw Fronius inverter.

Since incorporating a battery with Fronius inverter is quite expensive I thought of the following solution:

Once the installation and inspection of the net metering is signed off I want to incorporate an external battery bank that will operate as a UPS for my home.

To do that I thought of integrating a Multiplus 2 8kva 48v with 19.2kwh 48v battery bank from either Power Queen or Redodo both are about 1800euros per 4.8 kwh battery.

The multiplus AC in will be connected in one of the Fronius AC out. At the same time I will connect a current sensor to the multiplus to check if there is current coming in (to the Fronius inverter) from the solar panels feed.

If not, then the multiplus will switch to battery completely.

I will not be able to connect only essential loads to the Multiplus as this will mean that I have to redo all my electrical wiring in the house, however we will be contacting all power-hungry activities during morning hours and especially during pick solar production time.

Disclaimer: I am asking if this is possible based on your experience, of course when time comes all work will be done by an authorised professional.

Thank you all in advance.

Hi,

I will be running 11 panels in 2 strings going into a RS 450/100 which has 2 MMPTs.

The panels will be arranged in 2 lines across the roof so putting the two strings as two straight lines is one obvious possibility or arranged as two clusters, one at each end of the roof as it were.

As stated above, is either way better than the other?

Hi guys,

Does anyone know what cross section the PE connections from the AC-in, AC-out1 and AC-out2 are connected to internally in the unit?
I want to connect the Multiplus 2 with a 5x10mm² cable. Wire 1+2 for AC-in and wire 3+4 for AC-out1. PE is then only connected to AC-in.
In my opinion, this should also be perfectly sufficient, right?
In addition, the Multiplus 2 is grounded via the separate PE screw.

Hi all,

The user manual for my smartsolar MC4 model does not help me in deciding which way to wire up my PV panels to the unit. I only have 2 panels (390 watts each) and was originally going to wire in series and then into the pos/neg in's on the regulator. However the MC4 model regulators have several pairs of MC4 inputs which means I could just send cables from each panel straight into the regulator without having to series or parallel them at the panels first.

So, what is the most efficient way to wire these panels up please.

A little more info in Victrons wiring ebook and regulator manuals would be a great help.

My panels are 390watt Voc 75.3v Isc 6.55A.

Thanks