In the next phase of my victron setup I plan to order a transfer switch. In the preperation I try to finde documentation / configuration video / training video in how to configure the transfer switch.
In my setup I have a multiplus II with a battery and on AC1 OUT I plan to connect my entire electricity board and PV panels.
Whe the battery becomes too low, the transfer switch should switch back to the grid (PV panels should stay on the multiplus AC1 OUT)
I want to understand and know how to set this up.
Anybody uses the VE Transfer Switch? I'm wondering if I'm reading correctly that you have an auxilary contact that enables you to switch power sources using another device? It's not automatic, correct?
we have a setup where batteries are the main supply and then a generator is supplied once we reach a state of charge of 30%. we are using quattro 48/15000/200.
we seem to be having issues where when the system switches back to the batteries we have a blip in power causing interruptions to kit. is there a way to alter the any settings to stop this interuption.
we have already tried the UPS function to no avail.
I have a small sail boat with a 70ah lithium battery which is connected to a switch panel and has a disconnect switch adjacent to the battery which is on the active wire. All that is connected to the battery is a chartplotter, radio and a few led lights. There is no engine, no alternator, no inverter etc - very simple. I use the disconnect switch to isolate the battery when I leave the boat.
I am now in the process of adding a 70w flexible solar panel, with a Victron mppt 75/10 smartcontroller. Normally the solar panel will top up the battery while I’m away. Normally I will disconnect the panel when I come to the boat to get it out of the way. When the sail is over I will reconnect the pv and go home. But sometimes, like today, I want to disconnect the panels and leave the boat for a week or more. I am worried about leaving the controller connected to the battery and fear it will run it down. It is impractical to disconnect the controller at either the controller or the battery end. I am thinking I would like to put a switch in the negative between controller and battery. Is this okay to do and/or is there a smarter way to do it? I figure this must be a common issue and potential set-up but I can’t fi d anything on it here. Thanks very much for your help.
I have a Multiplus 24/5000 I'm just about to install. Reading through the quick installation guide, the order seems to be:
The guide specifically shows no switch between the battery and the Multiplus (it does show a fuse holder, but with a fuse already fitted). This means, as I understand it, that from step (3) onwards, it is possible that the unit will be live at 240v and step (7) is therefore potentially dangerous.
Is this right?
If this isn't right and the main battery should be switched, then could somebody advise what the correct sequence of powering the unit up is (i.e. battery and then AC-In, or vice-versa)?
Also, the quick installation guide makes no mention of pre-charging the Multiplus (and neither does any other document I can find). Is this necessary before the unit is powered?
Thanks in advance,
I am using the Victron 12/12 30A DC-DC Charger in a truck & truck camper installation - 2 FLA batteries in the truck, 1 large LiFePO4 battery in the camper.
If I use the H-pin and install a switch on the alternator side, is the unit still isolated if I turn the vehicle OFF with the switch in the ON position? My purpose for installing the switch is to allow me to turn off charging when in a heavy load situation, or to use monitoring tools to see the impact of the charger as compared to OFF.
Effectively, when the engine is off I do want the two battery sets ISOLATED and the DC-DC Charger OFF, without having to flip the switch to OFF.
Just so I'm getting this Correct the "L" pin Supplies a 3.3v Live, When the "H" pin Receives a voltage of 3v or higher it turns the device on, and less the 3V it turns the device off? If this is the case could I Ignore the "L" pin on the devices and Wire a 12V live from the Battery into the COM port of the Relay and then just Parallel the "H" pins from the NC relay port. when the Relay in the BMW is normally closed the charger & MPPT would be ON, when the low temperature triggers ( or any other trigger ) , it will open the relay which would turn off the Charger and MPPT ( and prevent my lithium battery is charging when cold and my Batteries internal BMS doesn't have low temperature charge cut off ) ￼
Hello, I just installed the VE switch between my house /Grid power and the 3 KW inverter. It does however not switch under any circumstances over to grid power when available. I measured many times and the power is definitely available from the inverter and the grid. Manual switching with K11 or K2 does not work either. It always stays on inverter power for the output.
I also noticed that indicator led is not illuminated on K=1 and K22
Switching off the inverter does not force to switch to grid. Any thoughts?
I plan to program a relay to turn the inverter 3000 (Phoenix,Quattro) on/off maybe more than once a day depending on the load. Will the internal switch be ok to support it or it will wear out and break soon?
I would like to be able to turn on and off remotely ,the MultiPlus inverter/charger, using a simple on-off switch. Please assist. Thanks.
I know community guidelines state "Just one question", but for this project, I have several and I feel they cannot be separated, so bear with me.
I would like to Install a bypass switch to my Quattro, so I can experiment on it while the house is on Grid. For that I would appreciate if there are some component recommendations what to use.
I thought about a Hager HIM406 or 306 (do I need 3 pole or 4 pole?), but if someone has a more cost effective solution I'm all ears. Ideally switching would mean no downtime (also to 24/7 running servers). Not sure if that is achievable, if there was no downtime switching Quattro AC-Out -> grid, but downtime switching back... Better than nothing (both downtime).
So far, so normal - but I would like another functionality:
Switching over the house to grid while keeping AC-In of the Quattro also on grid. a.k.a. just taking load off the Quattro. The rationale behind this is to have house on grid, being able to experiment with Quattro without taking house down and also being able to e.g. charge batteries.
Now how could I achieve all this?
And just so I understand: Why hasn't the Quattro a built-in bypass functionality? I mean it does have a 100A transfer switch, so it should - IMHO - be possible to have the Quattro acting like a wire. And even in the case power PCB burnt out (no charger, no inverter) - which happened to me recently - the limbic system of the Quattro should be enough to provide that 1:1 routing - no?
Anybody have pictures or a diagram of the actual interior layout of this switch? Pulled the board off the back of the switch when holding the wire aside to mount the unit. Now have a PCB? board, a metal rocker and maybe one small unidentified plastic piece.
I've tried to dig into all questions and answer but it seems that my question is never asked before.
If the opposite please my apologise from now. Please send me the link of the previous post.
I'm moving from gel battery to DIY LiFePo4 batteries.
I've just bought a new charger, the Multiplus 12/3000/120.
I've already installed on board BMV712 and Venus OS on a Raspberry Pi3
When I'm in the marina, connected to the shore power, I would like to charge the battery up to 85% of their capacity and switch off the charger, but continue to use the shore power and the inverter if necessary (power off, more energy etc). Then switch ON again the charger at 40% of the batteries capacity.
As I can see the phisical remote can have only Charger ON or Charger/Inverter ON or all OFF.
I see that using the relay of my BMV712, at 85% of the capacity I can open/close the contact and with another bigger relay cut the shore power off, and on again at 40%. But with this setup when the shore power is off I shall would use only the inverter.
Is there any possibility to switch off only the charger function and keep the shore power?
I have a question about the current rating of bus bars and switches. I have a 12V system, and the bus bar I was planning on using has a rating of 250A. However, it says that this rating is for a 48V system. Does this mean that it has a rating of 1000A for a 12V system? Or does it not work like that - is it only the current value that matters? An explanation of the physics behind this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
Hi, I have a Multiplus 48/3000 in an off-grid system with BYD batteries and a Venus GX.
It seems that if the Multiplus is connected to the Venus, the remote ON/OFF switch doesn't work. It does work with the VE Bus cable disconnected.
Is this the way it works?
Is there any chance to have both the Venus connected and the remote switch working?