I'm considering connecting a bank of four parallel 200ah 12v Victron Lithium Smart batteries using the Lynx Distributor to a Lynx BMS, similar to this schematic w/ two parallel and also similar to the diagram from the Lynx Distributor manual (page 10).
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hi all! is it possible to use mega fuse 32V for 48V systems. Needed to protect MPPT 250/100. Thanks
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Is there a fuse amperage and cable gauge/length table for the Orion TR Smart 12/12 18 isolated charger?
The online manual lists fuse amperages for input and output batteries and cable gauges for various lengths, but the suggested fuse is 60 amps at both the input and output batteries. That seems rather excessive for a charger outputting 18 amps.
I definitely can't let the charger try to pull that kind of amperage on my installed cables which are presently fused at 30a.
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My Multiplus 12/3000 calls for a 400A Class T fuse. Many suppliers are out of stock but I find that some Class T fuses available are slow blow and some are fast acting JJN and extremely fast acting TJN. What type does Victron recommend?
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for initial setup of my MP2/5000/48 I have a MK3 cable to connect the PC. As far as I understand, I have to run VEConfigure on a PC to setup the parameters and VEFlash to make sure, latest firmware is in use.
1) Windows enumerates FTDI COM3 after connecting the MK3 cable to USB socket. I assume drivers and installation is correct but cannot find any connected MP2 device.
2) Assume I have to plug in the MK3 cable opposite end into any one of the both RS485 sockets (labeled VE-Bus) on bottom of the MP2 and a terminator resistor (what was included in my cerbo GX) into the other of the both sockets
3) Finally I have to power up The MP2 for communication. As my 48Volt Pylontech batteries are still not delivered and the MP2 has 2 diffrent power supplies?) I connected the AC-In Terminals to 230Volt AC.
4) To switch on the MP2, I refer to MP2 manual page 10, chapter 3.5
The text instructs to use the switch on the bottom left hand of the device but my MP2 seems to have this switch on the bottom right side only.
5) Page 6 chapter 3.1 describes a On/Off/Charger only switch what is probably the very same switch ? The instructions are to put the switch into "ON" or "CHARGER ONLY" position but there is not such label on my device. The switch is labeled I/0/II and I cannot determine the correct position with label and instruction manual.
6) After switch on, some LEDs will lid (depend from Pos 1or2) and after a few seconds the internal transfer switch contactor seems to close as the 230V AC input frequency is accepted. Unfortunately, the closing contactor blows my AC fuse and RCD in any case. There are no loads on the AC1 or AC2 outputs and there is not DC battery connected for charging current.
What is the expected inrush current of the torroid transformer ? Does a B16 resetable fuse (Sicherungsautomat) survive ? I upgraded the fuse to C32 what also triggers and something seems to be wrong with my setup or device ?
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I designed my system with Pylontech US5000 batteries, with banks of two batteries going to Lynx Distributors using 48V Mega Fuses. The system will limit 100A through the cables, but a short would potentially put too much current through the cables.
A solar consultant has told us Megafuses won't work, that the only fuse rated for lithium batteries are t-fuses. I've seen others use t-fuses in their systems, and seen others who have just gone with the Lynx and a circuit breaker and others who use nothing between Pylontech and the Lynx. But the consultant said t-fuses are required and there is no need for the Lynx Distributors because of this.
Any thoughts on this?
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Trying out a brand new Phoenix 12/250 on the test bench. Hooked up 12V from a lead acid battery though a 30A blade fuse, 10mm2 cables.
It has no problems running lights.
Next I hooked up a small fridge, usually draws about 70W, so I expected it to be with a good margin to the inverter's max.
Then, when switching on, a short brrr and then a snap from the fuse.
Manual seems not to recommend a proper fuse, only that it internally has a 60A, but I like to have fuses close to the battery.
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What should be the value of the mega fuse if I have a double line from MPPT RS 450/200-Tr. Still is it 2x 250 A? Please see the picture for details.
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My setup is 2xMPPT RS 450/200-Tr, modified LynxPowerIns to use fuses, 8x pylontech us5000.
I know in my case it's may be a overkill, but my friend has it wired almost same setup to single cable and it reaches 40c temperature easily (on cable)... and i just have more spare cables, why not use them?
Thank you
Mikolas
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I feel like this is a stupid question, I can see the fuse size recommended in the phoenix manual, but am struggling to actually find a model of fuse that is suitable.
Per the manual as I have >1.5m cable runs I need 10mm cross section cable, and a 25A fuse close to the battery. I bought an in line blade fuse holder, but looking at this it has 4mm wire tails which dissent sound like the right thing to use here. But all of the fuse holders I've found with screw on terminals like Mega fuse, ANL all seem to start at higher than 25A ratings.
What are other people using in this scenario? Can anyone send me a link to a fuse holder that will connect to 10mm cables and receive a 25A fuse? Or am I completely misunderstanding something here?
Thanks
Neil
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Trying to determine the Fuse Size and Wire Gauge between a Victron 25.6V/200AH Smart-a Battery and a Lynx Distributor.
Should they match the Fuse and Wire specified by Victron for the connection of the Multiplus 24/300VA? Or should they be both be sized larger to accommodate loads in addition to the Multiplus?
I have searched and found varying/conflicting information online so I wanted to confirm.
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Hi all,
Need some guidance for an Inverter install. This is for Canada, so it will be the NEMA GFCI model and spec.
Wire size : 10mm2 (AMG 8)
Manual says fuse or DC circuit breaker is mandatory even less than 1.5m.
The amp size of the fuse from research seems to be 60amp. From research it also understand the fuse needs to be a Class T fuse.
The 12/500 model has a switch (connect) option, which I can use as a switch.
What is the best practice? To have a Class T fuse AND a switch AND a circuit breaker? inline?
I'm having a hard time to fine a Class T fuse for 60amp, is it wrong to just do a circuit breaker? If so, are there any recommendations on what type & model?
If I do a circuit breaker, which will also act as a switch, do I still need to add a switch to the inverter using the connect wires?
Another noob question, on where in the calculations does it ask the size of the battery bank, does the size of the battery bank behind the inverter have no effect on the calculations of wire/fuse/etc?
I have 5 batteries in parallel AGM 105 ampH each.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
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I've bought most of the stuff in this setup and now want to get fuses/breakers. But wanted to run it past those in the know before buying. Any comments on the above diagram would be welcome too; sizing of the wiring to follow when i've measured. Also does anyone have any recommendations on breakers/fuses?
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I have an existing system that I am trying to upgrade/correct. Our original van installer undersized everything and we've been dealing with some issues. The upgrade includes adding appropriate fuses, adding a bus bar (Lynx), swapping an isolator for a DC to DC charger, and upgrading from AGM to Lithium batteries. I already have a Renogy 3000W inverter and a Renogy Wanderer 30A Solar Charger.
Can anyone provide feedback on my wiring diagram to confirm that I'm connecting things correctly? Or, provide insight into what needs to be changed?
Note: I did not add all necessary fuses/disconnects to the diagram. I plan to have a 300A fuse and disconnect between the battery and the Lynx Distributor. In addition, we'll have (1) 125A fuse for 6AWG wire to DC to DC charger, (2) 200A fuses to 2AWG wire to house loads and solar wanderer, and (1) 300A fuse to 4/0 wire to inverter within the Lynx. We will also have a Victron Smart shunt connected between the battery negative and the Lynx.
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Hi all,
I have a small fishing boat with the house load (12V at average load about 2-3A) supplied by the starter battery (conventional, not lithium). There is a separate 24V circuit (2 x 12V 100Ah lithium in series) to run the electric trolling motor. To reduce the risk of the starter battery charge getting run down by the house load, I'm planning to add a 24/12-9A Isolated Dc-Dc Converter to keep the starter battery topped up. In effect the house load will be supplied from the 24V system via the converter. I can protect the starter battery without the need for a dedicated 12V house battery.
Sketch of proposed setup below.
Questions:
Thanks in advance.
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Hi All, my first time with Victron products and Solar Energy. Questions about Lynx Distributor. Considering that has 4 slots fused.
1) May I connect the whole system in One Lynx Distributor Unit?.
Example;
Slot 1: Multiplus-II 48/3000 (Fused)
Slot 2: SmartSolar MPPT 250/100 (Fused)
Slot 3: Lithium 48V Pylontech US3000 (Fused) (3 parallel modules connected with cable kit 120A/2000mm lenght)
Slot 4: Venus GX (Unfused as brings its own in-line Fuse)
2) Fuses sizing should be MEGA 125A for all 3 Slots? (i.e. Littlefuse MEGA 125A/58V for 48V)
3) Is there a minimum lenght for Cables of Slot 1 and Slot 2, I have available AWG2 35mm2 nominal cable (33,6mm2 actual section). For Slot 3 cable kit size came Pre-Fabricated.
Please if you see any safety issue advice, this is an Off-Grid system. 3000W Panels Array (4series x 2 strings). (SmarSolar is oversized for future expansion duplicating whole system)
Thank you,
Bye
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