wiring diagram

Hello all,

I bought a new boat. In this boat we have an old charger and a analoge voltage meter. As a winter project I upgraded the charger and voltage meter to an Victron Blue Smart Charger IP22 12/20 (3) and a BMV-712.

As in most older boats the electrical system is a mess and I want to clean it up as much as possible.

I've got an household battery and a starter battery. My question for now is.... Is the wiring diagram which I made correct? Or is there still a problem.

In the current situation the negative lines of both the batteries are connected to the most left positioned switch. I understand this needs to be changed if I place the BMV712 in my boat.

Kind regards,

Koen de Kruijf

[image]

Hi everyone,

I'd love to get some feedback on my diagram. This is for a DC-only system in 12V.

I'd like to check remotely on the battery SOC, so it looks like the Smart Shunt + Cerbo with a router will be the best way to do that. Unless someone has a better suggestion?

I went with the Lithium Superpack to save a bit of money by not having to get an external BMS. If there are other ways to make it cheaper without losing functionality, please let me know.

I'm still figuring out the distribution box, so that part of the diagram is just a placeholder at this stage.

Cheers

[image]

I want to be able to switch on/off manually a 12v water pump controller. Intellitec 0000145100 10 Amp Monoplex Water Pump Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2TBL7A. Are rhere any reference wiring diagram I can use to use relay 1 or 2 to function as a switch for the pump controller?

Does anyone know? I'd like to be able to create drawings like that without spending a fortune on AutoCAD or another 3D modeling tool. Thank you.

Hello,

I am building up a system consisting of 4x 170Ah, 12V lead AGM batteries in series. I attached the schematic below. I have the following question:

Would it be okay to "bridge" the input to one balancer to the next one like showed in the schematic?

From electrical point of view the plus-minus pairs of two batteries are nearly same polarity, they are connected with busbars or short cables with a crossection >16mm² (still in planning).

But I am not sure if this wiring will lead to problems that will make the Balancing not work... like voltage drops over the Balancer connection cables leading to higher errors in voltage measurement or maybe something else I am not aware of.

The description in the manual does not make it 100% clear to me if this wiring would be okay or not.

Does someone have experience with that?

Regards

[image]

Anyone know the biggest Wire that the size Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger Isolated could take?

i Have gauge 2Awg... Will that fix?

Dear community,

I'm designing the electrical system for my boat which I'm building step by step. I split up the start- and service battery with a Cyrix CT120 and want to measure the current of the service battery with an ammeter (+/-60A). In other words, I want to see if the service battery is being charged or discharged. Looking at the service battery part of the system; I have one main-switch installed for emergency shut-off and another one for the consumers. The last one will be swithed off when the boat is not being used while the first mentioned will normally be on.

I'm looking for feedback on the design, in particular how the service battery is connected to the Cyrix unit and the position of the ammeter.

Thank you very much in advance for any feedback you might have.

Kind regards,

Hugo

[image]

San Sylvestre Conversion.pdf

Victron Energy produces loads of great schematic drawings to help you plan your wiring. This is the first in a series of schematic drawings and it features the new Lynx Smart BMS together with the MultiPlus II with two 120v circuits. You can see there is solar and alternator charging as this is would be a complex install for an RV in the US for example.

[image]

Here is a link to the full-sized pdf.

I'm upgrading my current solar setup which has 1 array of 4 x 235W panels ( Voc 37v, Isc 8.6a), Outback 150v/60A charge controller, 24v battery bank and Magnum 4000w 24v inverter

Because the parts I ordered will come at different times, I'm planning 2 upgrades:

Upgrade #1

• Keep the current 4 x 235W panels ( 2 panels in series parallel another 2 panels in series ) + Outback 150/60A charge controller
• Keep the existing 24v battery bank and Magnum 4000w 24v inverter
• Add 8 panels: 2 solar arrays (connected in series), each 4 x 330W ( Voc 46.8v, Isc 10a )
• Add 2 x Victron SmartSolar MPPT 250/60 charge controllers
• Add Victron lynx distributor
  

  [image]

  Upgrade #1

  
  

Upgrade #2 (once my new batteries and Victron inverter arrive)

• Keep the current 4 x 235W panels ( 2 panels in series parallel another 2 panels in series ) + Outback 150/60A charge controller
• Replace 24v battery bank with the new 48v lithium battery bank
• Replace Magnum 4000w 24v inverter with Victron energy Quattro 48/5000/70
• Re-wire the current 8 panels (2 arrays x 4 in series) as 1 array (parallel 4 in series + 4 in series)
• Add another 8 panels and make the same array: parallel 4 in series + 4 in series

As I understand, each Victron SmartSolar MPPT 250/60 charge controller will be receiving 330w x 8 = 2640w, then output will be 2640w / 48v = 55a

My questions are:

1. Do my diagrams look ok?
2. Can I use 6 AWG copper stranded wire and 60A MEGA fuse for each positive wire between a charge controller and lynx power distributor? Or should I go with larger wire and fuses?

Many thanks in advance!

Vlad

P.S. This is my first solar system (recently bought an off grid house) and after some researches I feel very confident going with Victron products

This drawing is for 24 Volt with a Quattro 5KW 230VAC 24VDC, 600Ah Li batteries, a Lynx Smart BMS & multiple distributors, two smart battery protects, a Cerbo with GX touch, a generator, two MPPT’s and two Extra Alternator with Wakespeed WS500 regulators.
The two regulators work in tandem mode and are CAN Bus connected. This will prevent the so-called hunting effect about who is leading the charging process.

[image]

Here is a link to the full-sized pdf.

I've been using the non-smart version of the Orion 12/24 Non-isolated 10A Converter for alternator charging between my 12v vehicle system and my 24v house battery. I've been turning it on and off manually using a circuit breaker but would like to make this process automatic for obvious reasons and would like to do so in as elegant a fashion as possible. After researching, I decided that the Cyrix might be able to work in this situation. I wired it up as showing my attached diagram. However, once I started the vehicle and engaged the system, I did not getting any current.

One thing I did not do is connect the small negative terminal of the Cyrix, since I assumed that this was only necessary when using the "start assist" feature, which I am not using. Is this incorrect? Would this solve the problem, or is the cyrix simply not suitable for use with the Orion converter?

[image]

Thanks!

I have an older Morningstar pro star 30 and want to replace with a new mppt 100/30. The old prostar has solar, battery and load wiring.
The 100/30 seems to only have solar and battery wiring.

What do I do with the load wires ?

In this wiring diagram, Victron Energy shows how you can integrate other battery manufacturers lithium batteries into a fully integrated Victron system. This system uses three 48 Volt 5000VA Quattro Inverter Chargers in a three-phase system.

[image]

The diagram shows how Freedom Won Lithium batteries can be connected to a Victron Energy system. There is plenty of documentation on our website for setting up three-phase systems as well as how Freedom Won LiFePO4 Batteries are configured.

Here is a link to the full-sized pdf.

Hi there,
This is how I am planning in wiring my off grid tiny house on wheels (essentially a caravan) and just wanted to see if anyone can see any issues with it? Is the earth circuit correct? Photo attached.

I haven't drawn any of the AC side of of the installation for the purposes of this diagram but I'd like to add that in addition to the connections in this diagram, I will also have:

-All the earth's from my AC loads will connect back to my negative buss bar
-A large cable (same size as battery cable) joining my negative buss bar to the trailer chassis.

Another note - The reason I have run the MPPT positive cable through the other pole on my DC isolator is because when I switch that off I want everything to stop, including the charging of my batteries. I realise I can just turn the PV isolator switches off and achieve the same result, but I want it all to turn off with the flick of one switch.

Sorry for the long winded question and thank you in advance!

[image]

I'm planning my electrical system for a camper van and would appreciate it of someone could check over my plan to make sure I'm not an idiot and that I'm not missing any important parts. The idea is to have a leisure battery charged by both solar and the vehicles alternator.
All parts (except van batt & alternator) will be Victron.

Am I right in that with the BMS CL and a Battery Protect on the loads I don't need any further battery management or safety devices?

Please forgive my terrible graphic design skills (F is fuse):

[image]

UPDATE 5/11/2021: Please see the updated wiring diagram below with a Multiplus and larger batteries.

Hi all. I've created a wiring diagram for the electrical system I am going to install in my vehicle. After sending it to a few friends for feedback, I figured it would be a good idea to try and get some feedback from people who may know more about the Victron hardware specifically.

The batteries shown in the diagram are 2x Relion RB75, but I am considering going with RB100's to have more of a buffer.

If it makes any difference, this is going in an SUV (Ford Expedition EL)

One thing I've been trying to find is a different shore charger with a charging profile specifically for lithium (not a Multiplus, too expensive). This Samlex charger only has lead-acid profiles, which the Relion batteries accept but I figured lithium specific is better.

The system is fused for more power than the batteries can deliver (I think), but I will never be using anywhere near that much so it is a non issue.

Thanks

[image]

UPDATED WIRING DIAGRAM (5/11/2021)

[image]

[image]

Hello

CORRECTED wiring diagram attached - May 2

Confused about how to wire a Victron 702 on a boat - here is wiring diagram along with pictures of batteries.

Part of confusion is that I have an extra wire from starter battery into panel...wiring diagram attached along with pictures of batteries and a batter switch 1 (house), 2 (start) or both that I want to work as is does now after installation.

Thanks in advance!!!!

[image]

Salut les gens

Je suis de retour et en français cette fois, plus simple pour moi aussi !

J'ai apporté des modifications quant à la première conception postée sur forum anglais, y compris avec le matériel existant.

L'équipement existant, encadré en vert en bas à droite, est physiquement situé à l'intérieur du véhicule. Les lignes vertes partent de l'EBL119. L'EBL119 est une unité électrique d'origine et intégrée dans le véhicule. Elle est utilisée pour la distribution du courant 12V / 220V et pour la gestion d'une seule batterie de service cabine AGM ainsi que d'une batterie de démarrage. L'EBL119 n'accepte que du 12V / 220V. Je n'ai pas encore déterminé la section des câbles, mais cela dépendra aussi des longueurs, à voir sur place.

Dans mon précédent post sur forum anglais, on m'avait conseillé de passer du 12V au 24V pour tout le système. Mais au vu de l'EBL119 présent et que je veux garder pour la gestion de tous les éléments internes, frigo, éclairage, alimentation externe... je vais rester au banc 12V.

Mon objectif :

- Retirer les éléments encadrés par une ligne verte en pointillés ainsi que les lignes en pointillés verts: batterie de service et ligne directe 220V vers la distribution des prises.

- Laisser l'EBL119 en place mais en installant un interrupteur à 3 positions pour la distribution du 220V dans les 5 prises existantes du véhicule: 0- pas d'entrée de courant, 1- alimentation 220V par le convertisseur, 2- alimentation 220V de la connexion externe au véhicule.

- Recharge des batteries Lithium avec un Buck-Boost grâce à l'alternateur / Euro-6.

Reste à résoudre:

- Recharge du banc de batteries Lithium 12V par l'alimentation externe 220V de l'EBL119 ou directement par une alimentation séparée à un chargeur? Je ne connais pas encore le meilleur. Peut être avec un convertisseur / chargeur au lieu du seul convertisseur.

Ou pluôt, rester en 12V avec les batteries, comme ça, pas de souci avec l'EBL119 ( comme sur mon design joint ). Ou quand même mettre tout en 24V ( selon les commentaires apportés depuis le forum anglais ).....Argggg...je ne sais plus par où commencer ou plutôt finir...

Cela vous parle-t-il et suis-je sur la bonne voie?

Merci beaucoup pour vos fabuleux commentaires sur ce projet.

[image]

Hi Folks

Before installing my system in my motorhome, I wanted to submit to your experiences on this installation.

The green part is the support panel. The cables pass through the rounds to pass to the rear. This forms like a door with a hinge to facilitate assembly and to carry out subsequent additions of elements. The dimensions of all elements are exact dimensions in mm. The thin cables are in 2.5mm2 or VE.Direct or USB, the medium ones in 16mm2, the batteries in 35mm2. The battery fuses are 175 ANL. The red lines are + or Line or Phase, the black lines are - or Neutral.

No cables cross and the support panel is 80 cm x 60 cm, made of fireproof wood. Did I miss something in this assembly diagram?

I thank you in advance.

[image]

[image]

I've bought most of the stuff in this setup and now want to get fuses/breakers. But wanted to run it past those in the know before buying. Any comments on the above diagram would be welcome too; sizing of the wiring to follow when i've measured. Also does anyone have any recommendations on breakers/fuses?

I have a question about possible conflicts in the use of the multiplus 1200w/12v and the 2 superpack batteries of 100A each. in a motorhome.

my consumption spreadsheet is:

My friend commented that: I may not be able to use them (batteries) with the Inverter, as it is very discharged for these particular batteries. Batteries have a continuous discharge capacity of 50A, while the inverter can consume up to 100A if it is fully charged. I will not damage the battery, as it can withstand a peak discharge of 100 A, but it is for a short period of time, so I will be able to find out that the internal controls will be activated and therefore will shut down the inverter. He recommends using the Smart Lithium line as an alternative and the external BMS. Is that correct? Would it be better to switch the batteries to the smart line? I chose superpack batteries because they are cheaper and have BMS included. What would be better, changing the batteries or changing the multiplus, if possible?

[image]

I'm doing the electrical project for a campervan. It is a mercedes sprinter 211 cdi van.

I made a diagram with Victron's equipment, for a moderate consumption, 2 days off-grid,

I wish someone could analyze the diagram and say if everything is correct.

Other questions

1)I have is about the multiplus temperature sensor. Are the black and red wire connected to the negative battery terminal? Where can I monitor this measurement, is it on the BMV 712?

2) I have a question about possible conflicts in the use of the multiplus 1200w and the 2 superpack batteries of 100A each.
My friend commented that: I may not be able to use them (batteries) with the 1200w Inverter, as it is very discharged for these particular batteries. Batteries have a continuous discharge capacity of 50A, while the inverter can consume up to 100A if it is fully charged. I will not damage the battery, as it can withstand a peak discharge of 100 A, but it is for a short period of time, so I will be able to find out that the internal controls will be activated and therefore will shut down the inverter. He recommends using the Smart Lithium line as an alternative and the external BMS. Is that correct? Would it be better to switch the batteries to the smart line? I chose superpack batteries because they are cheaper and have BMS included. What would be better, changing the batteries or changing the multiplus, if possible?

I await comments

Thanks

João Lima

Hi all

I hope this is not an inappropriate question

I'm designing a minimal off grid system for my 1989 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia campervan. I will have 2 x 75Ah SLA leisure batteries and 75Amp engine battery. I'll upgrade leisure batteries to LiFePO4 in a year or so. I'll have a single 160 Watt PV panel.

I'll use all Victron kit: MTTP solar controller, B2B charger, Lynx, Shunt and battery disconnect and 230v ac to 12v DC charger. I'll only need 500 Watt inverter to charge ebike, ideally from alternator while moving. I'll use Bluetooth to monitor.

Can you point me to a wiring diagram to help me choose exact model and calculate wiring sizes and fuses.

Any advice or suggestions very welcome.

Many thanks

I'm getting very confused by my internet research, by my calculations to get the max draw from the batteries to the busbar 700a to the invertor and the 12v system is roughly 600a so my cabling needs to match that the the busbar. Is this correct. So 120mm2 cable or would running two 90mm2 cables be better advised or at risk from melting...

The rest of the system is in place and just confusing myself with this last little bit... undoubtably the most important which is why I am 2nd guessing what I am researching.

If anyone can help that would be great

Hi does anybody have a wiring diagram similar to the Victron schematics thats editable i have tried some different programs but nothing looks anything near as good .

thanks

Gordon

how to connect mppt 100/30 and mppt 100/50, as I have 800 watts of solar going into 4 - 120 ahr lithium batteries