I just spent an hour typing everything out in detail, hit submit and got an error- doh! So forgive the potential brevity of this 2nd attempt...

I have an existing PV Array and inverter (see the right hand side of the diagram below) and am looking to add battery storage.

Unfortunately the existing PV array configuration is above the Voltage input limit for the EasySolar, but I think I can either split this into 2 strings or I might add another array at a later date. I was also able to find a heavily discounted EasySolar unit, so it seemed like the simplest ("all in one") solution.

I had difficulty at first confirming that the AC-Out doesn't need connecting and the AC-In is in fact bi-directional (I think perhaps it is the PowerAssist feature used to determine what goes back out).

Some of the connections i'm still not 100% sure of, but i've tried to detail what/where on my diagram.

Any advice/tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated- thanks!

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Link to my hand drawn wiring diagram:

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This is not a perfect or complete diagram, I am still figuring some things out like breaker placement, the auto start relay, and the temperature sensor. However it should be enough information to be able to answer my question. The busbars are those small unlabeled rectangles, the circles are where I have been debating if breakers should go. And I have crossed out some things.

I am using two Multiplus 2 units 48/5000, I am connecting a DC battery bank (1 battery at first that will be expanded to 4). I will be using the Multipluses in split phase. I will have generator hooked up to an automatic transfer switch, and a 30 amp shore power cord will run through a 32 amp autotransformer to be converted to split phase and the output of the autotransformer will also run into the automatic transfer switch. The output of the automatic transfer switch will go to the 2 Multiplus units (I have not at this time added a bypass switch but plan to, here). The multiplus units go to a 100amp autotranformer that will be used for balancing. The output of that autotransformer will go to my distribution panel.

Wiring Diagram of Distribution Box from manual:

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Ground Diagrams From Wiring Unlimited:

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My question is: Where do I connect the main ground of the 32 amp autotransformer to? Is it okay to connect it to the negative DC busbar with everything else?

Does my main ground on my distribution box go directly to the RV chasis? Or does it need to go to the negative DC busbar with everything else?

Also, it looks like the 30 amp shore power needs a wire splitting off from the ground that goes to that same negative DC busbar, do I do that before the 30amp auto transformer or after it before the automatic transfer switch.

I have included all the diagrams I have been using as a wiring references.

I have included links to all the components of this system.

So all of the diagrams say that the inverter/chargers should be grounded to the central negative DC busbar. And it says that the autotransformer should be grounded there too – however in the diagrams where it says this the autotransformer is always after the inverter/chargers. The one I don’t know where to send the ground to is before the inverter/chargers. I do plan to charge the battery bank from the 30 amp shore power and to supplement loads from the battery bank when pulling from 30 amp shore. Don’t know if that makes a difference.

Also, the diagrams in Wiring Unlimited, show connecting a ground wire to the negative battery terminal and connecting that wire to a ground bus bar where all the grounds I was going to put directly on the negative busbar go to. And that bus bar actually goes to the main grounding point. Is this acceptable in my system? Can I do this instead? It just seems like a cleaner wiring design. I though that electrically speaking its the exact same setup as grounding at the negative bus bar, but don’t want to misunderstand something. This looks so much cleaner and I want to know if its okay to wire my system this way. See attached photos or Wiring Unlimited.

Stacked Inverter Balancing with Generator - Autotransformer

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/AT-4-stacked-inverter-2x120V-to-120-240V-with-2xQuattro-120V-REV-B.pdf

120 to 120/240 split phase

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/AT-3-split-phase-120V-to-120-240V-with-Quattro-120V.pdf

Products

Multiplus 2

https://www.victronenergy.com/inverters-chargers/multiplus-ii

Autotransformer

https://www.victronenergy.com/autotransformers/autotransformers

Generator

https://westinghouseoutdoorpower.com/products/wgen12000c-generator-with-co-sensor

Go Power Auto Transfer Switch

https://gopowersolar.com/products/50-amp-transfer-switch/

EG4 Battery

https://signaturesolar.com/eg4-wp-lithium-battery-48v-100ah

Distribution Box

https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-893050-distribution-panel-series/

Im basically a novice to victron here , i heard only good things about the victron community this far. I hope I dont get blasted for asking questions that are too simple for the experts here.

Ive just watched a video titled;

ESS (Energy Storage System) Webinar | 19 December 2016 | Victron Energy

I would like someone to explain what is meant by ''PV on the AC INPUT'' of a ac coupled system. Could someone show me via a more detailed wiring diagram what is meant by this , it reads confusing to me because it sounds like you're wiring pv wires to an actual ac input. I would like to see the actual terminals where the wiring of the pv would go into inverter setup like this .

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How do I wire a solid switch 104 using only a Lynx smart BMS 500?

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Hi, I have four pylontech US5000C batteries wired to my lynx distributor using a diagonal pattern as shown in wiring unlimited. But, I thought it might be a good idea to double up the cables to limit the current. They are the standard 25mm pylontech cables. Should I use a 'double diagonal' pattern as shown in the image?

Thanks, Steve

In the Wiring unlimited page 36, connections "A" is OK and "C" can not be used.

Can you clarify if Connection "B" is right or wrong?

It has cross and check at the same time. What does it mean?

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Victron Energy produces loads of great schematic drawings to help you plan your wiring. This is the first in a series of schematic drawings and it features the new Lynx Smart BMS together with the MultiPlus II with two 120v circuits. You can see there is solar and alternator charging as this is would be a complex install for an RV in the US for example.

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Here is a link to the full-sized pdf.

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I am new to solar power, I am certified industrial electric and a CFSEA master tech. looking for some peer or pro input, changes, suggestions on my solar system diagram before I start putting it together, enclosed is my list of parts and wiring diagram, Thank You In Advanced for your help.

my solar components

3) solar panels Rated Power 195 W

Solar Cell Monocrystalline

Maximum/Peak Voltage(Vmp) 19v

Open Circuit Voltage(Voc) 22.8v

Short circuit current 12.23A

Maximum current 10.27A

Epever: Tracer 6415AN 60a solar charge controller 48-12v max 150v 4500w (780w 12v) (1500w 24v)

Victron Energy MultiPlus-II 2X 120V, 3000VA 12-Volt Pure Sine Wave Inverter and 120 amp Battery Charger

1) 600a High Current Battery Disconnect Switch

1) 0/2/4 Gauge AWG in-Line ANL Fuse Holder with 150 Amp fuse

1) 0/2/4 Gauge AWG in-Line ANL Fuse Holder with 400 Amp fuse

1) 50a Miniature Circuit Breaker, 2 Pole 500V 50 Amp

2) DC Miniature Circuit Breaker, 2 Pole 500V 40 Amp Isolator for Solar PV System

1) DC Miniature Circuit Breaker, 2 Pole 500V 20 Amp

3) 250A Circuit Breaker Manual Reset

1) 60a Premium High-Current Circuit Breaker

1) 80a Premium High-Current Circuit Breaker

1) 150a Premium High-Current Circuit Breaker

1) DC Multifunction Battery Monitor Meter,0-200V,0-300A (Widely Applied to 12V/24V/48V RV/Car Battery) LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Solar Power Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter

2) Busbar 1 x 3/8” Stud 2 x #8 Screw Terminals Power Distribution Block

2) Busbar 4 x 3/8” Stud 2 x #8 Screw Terminals Power Distribution Block

50ft 8 AWG 25' red 25' black

25ft 4/0 Wire (Red Translucent) Copper Clad Aluminum CCA - Primary Automotive Wire

20ft 10 AWG Silicone Wire Kit Red and Black Each 10ft Flexible 10 AWG Stranded Tinned Copper Wire

50ft)6 AWG Wire (25ft Each- Black/Red Translucent) Copper Clad Aluminum CCA - Primary Automotive Wire

10ft) 2/0 Gauge 5 Feet Black 5 Feet Red 2/0 AWG Ultra Flexible Welding Battery Copper Cable Wire

6) ECO-Worthy LiFePO4 12V 100Ah batteries

12,8V voltage 14.5V maximum voltage

100A maximum discharge current 50A maximum charge current

Temperature range (discharging) -20-55 degrees Temperature range (charging) 0-55 degrees

Trying to determine the Fuse Size and Wire Gauge between a Victron 25.6V/200AH Smart-a Battery and a Lynx Distributor.

Should they match the Fuse and Wire specified by Victron for the connection of the Multiplus 24/300VA? Or should they be both be sized larger to accommodate loads in addition to the Multiplus?

I have searched and found varying/conflicting information online so I wanted to confirm.

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I've bought most of the stuff in this setup and now want to get fuses/breakers. But wanted to run it past those in the know before buying. Any comments on the above diagram would be welcome too; sizing of the wiring to follow when i've measured. Also does anyone have any recommendations on breakers/fuses?

I have an existing system that I am trying to upgrade/correct. Our original van installer undersized everything and we've been dealing with some issues. The upgrade includes adding appropriate fuses, adding a bus bar (Lynx), swapping an isolator for a DC to DC charger, and upgrading from AGM to Lithium batteries. I already have a Renogy 3000W inverter and a Renogy Wanderer 30A Solar Charger.

Can anyone provide feedback on my wiring diagram to confirm that I'm connecting things correctly? Or, provide insight into what needs to be changed?

Note: I did not add all necessary fuses/disconnects to the diagram. I plan to have a 300A fuse and disconnect between the battery and the Lynx Distributor. In addition, we'll have (1) 125A fuse for 6AWG wire to DC to DC charger, (2) 200A fuses to 2AWG wire to house loads and solar wanderer, and (1) 300A fuse to 4/0 wire to inverter within the Lynx. We will also have a Victron Smart shunt connected between the battery negative and the Lynx.

Victron Diagram.pdf

I need some help please, we have had a bmv700 in our boat system for a few years now but have never been able to get the BMV to read the amps coming from the two alternators, every other load, charging system shows up nicely,, its a 12v system with one 800amp battery bank, two 85amp alternators which are grounded through the engine case to the neg side of the batteries with external Hella HPR 3 stage regulators on each alternator, my problem is I can't for the life of me work out how I can get the BMV700 to read the amps that the alternators are putting into the batteries so at the end of the day the BMV is reading a neg amp draw not knowing that the alternators are actually charging the batteries, is there anyway of getting a chassis ground alt to be connected to the load side of the shunt? I'm very confused and need some positive advise.

Rod.

I've just read the Wiring Unlimited guide - what an amazing and educational resource! Thank you so much to Victron and Margreet Leeftink for writing this, I've really learnt so much about some basic electrical theory.

There's an interesting section in the guide where it suggests running a bypass switch.

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This makes complete sense in order to isolate the inverter from the grid and loads in order to be able to do maintenance etc. but I have a couple of questions:

1. Is a "bypass switch" the same thing as a "changeover switch" such as the Hager SF463? https://www.hagerelectro.com.au/e-catalogue/energy-distribution/control-indication/manual-changeover-switches/changeover-switches/sf463/18978.htm
2. If it's the same as a changeover switch, how would the switch be wired logically? I've tried working this out but it's not making sense to me and I'm hoping someone might be able to help me understand how this should work?

I've got a diagram below which is how I think it should be wired but I'm trying to understand where the AC-In would be wired to.

I thought maybe that AC-In would be wired into the changeover switch in parallel with the AC-out but I thought this might introduce a loop and this would be a bad idea?

Then I thought maybe it should be wired into the output of the MCB but then I'd have to add an isolator and this didn't make sense and doesn't follow the schematic depicted in the wiring unlimited guide.

Would really appreciate some help here from some experts :)

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Looking to connect a ET112 to a Zigbee as my mains incoming grid connection is around 30m away from where my Cerbo GX is located.

On the ET112 to Zigbee RS485 connection. It shows a +12V DC and -GND connection. Not seen this on any "real life" wiring diagrams I have seen online. I only have AC connections around my meter. Do I need to buy a 12V AC to DC plug adaptor and strip the cables to make this connection?

Also question 2. Does anyone know if the Zigbee to USB comes with the required USB cable to connect to the Cerbo GX, or do I have to buy this separately?

Thanks in advance. Newbie at this.

I have x2 12v 100AH batteries hooked in series for a 24v trolling motor.

I talked to Victron support and they told me that I would need two smartshunts for my system using the NOCO GEN5x3 12v 3 bank charger. Or I would need to buy a dual voltage 24v / 12v charger, cheapest I can find is the Iconic for $369.00. It is way cheaper to buy another $115 shunt. Also it is a lot easier job to just install another shunt vs changing my charging setup.

I am unsure on how to wire this up correctly and how to set it up in the app.

Below is a diagram of what I am thinking but would one of the batteries read 24v and the other 12v? I would like to configure it to where the smartshunts only monitor each battery and not the system as a whole.

To complicate this even more I also have a minn kota alternator that charges the battery while running, which is another reason I don't want to switch to a 24v charger because the shunts would be thrown off by the charge coming from it. It is a 2 bank DC-DC charger, 12v @ 10 amp each wired to the same spots as the NOCO minus the starter battery. This isn't on the diagram because it cluttered things up pretty bad.

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Also what would a single shunt monitor, if I remove the shunt to the right and leave a single shunt in the middle? Would that monitor the battery to the left? If so could I then just do a DC meter function on the AUX/midpoint wire for the battery to the right?

Thank you in advanced for help :)