[image]I am planning to upgrade my sailboat electrical to Lithium. Could any body tells me if the attached diagram makes sense, and is safe . The 200 A rating of the smart BMS 200 is more than adequate for the yacht electrical needs. However the existing Victron quatro charger inverter is rated 5000 W and could only be handle by remote wires. Would this interfere with the digital multi control functionality ? My goal is to keep the system simple and safe and I would like to stay away from a VE bus bms or Lynx .
Hi All, I have a Smart shunt and 100/30 Smart solar controller which I will be wiring into my camper trailer soon. I will be running when off grid 2x200watt 12v solar panels
I have dual agm batteries wired in parralell.
What's the best way to wire them in...can they be wired so that the battery + on the 100/30 goes to the + on the shunt and the - to the - on the battery or should it not be wired to smat shunt at all
Thanks in advance
I want to add the option to jumpstart my Sprinter van by using my 400 Ah Victron Smart Batteries using the existing wiring from the starter battery to the Orion.
Just a brief overview on my current electrical setup:
I thought that it should be possible to use changeover switches for this purpose like in the wiring diagram below:
From a wiring perspective would that be possible? And if yes, which changeover switch should be used? And if not, what can be done to make this happen :)
For a van conversion.
Is 40A Breaker on 6mm2 pushing it a little?
Diesel Heater is on its separate circuit, for safety.
No RCD/Consumer on multiplus shore inlet, I've heard this can cause headaches.
One thing I haven't drawn yet though.. I was considering charging the starter battery from the multiplus trickle, would that be any more complicated than just joining it to the starter battery positive?
I have already bought most of the larger Victron components and batteries, but didn't want to buy all the smaller items (cables, fuses, busbars, ...) until I had the entire diagram figured out for my campervan. This is what I've come up with (don't shoot my paint skills, haha). I would highly appreciate any feedback on my setup before I start buying the rest.
Thank you in advance!
I am fairly new to the Victron Universe and I am in the process of helping someone with a wiring diagram where they want to remove starter battery in the engine bay and replace it with a combined starter/house Lithium battery in the rear of the vehicle. Looking at the two wiring diagrams for the Orion DC-DC charger, this scenario is not included, which is why I am asking for help here.
I’m assuming they would need to follow the Victron Charger Diagram but the starter would be omitted and there would need to be additional battery cables from the starter/aux (installed after the DC Charger)?
The DC Charger can only accept 6AWG cables and for a relocated starter battery the cables from the starter to the starter battery would need to be 1/0 so I am assuming those would need to be run independently of the DC charger?
If anyone has attempted something like this before I would very much appreciate your input.
I notice in the wiring diagram for the Lynx Distributer, if using it for connecting batteries in, there are no fuses at the battery terminals and you are relying on the fuses in the Lynx distributer which could be a fair distance from the batteries offering no protection to the cable between the batteries and the Lynx Distributer.
I will be using 3 banks in parallel of 4 x 12V 130Ah Batteries.
Is this an oversight in the wiring diagram or is there an explanation why AGM/SLA batteries would not need to be individually fused at the postive terminal?
Changing wiring in my boat for Lithiums...
I plan to still use the 1,2,Both switch so that I can isolate start battery, esp. when running windlass as I don't want to trip BMS. I plan to use an isolator and Orion Smart DC-DC charger...
Schematic attached. Any red flags??
I have been trying to design a system setup for my vehicle that includes multiple power sources. Having looked at a number of other peoples posts I have tried to put together a diagram to show what I wanted to do and wanted some advice on where I may have gone wrong. This area is new to me so please bare that in mind.
Is there a wiring diagram and components to use for building a boat installation with
1 AGM battery for bow thruster,
1 AGM battery for start battery,
approx 200 amp lithium,
2x 100w solar,
Inverter for coffe maker, and smaller AC stuff
All help appreciated. Tried to find some previous threads but could not find the set-up explained.
I have a small travel trailer (caravan) which I want to add a 100Ah LiFePO4 12v battery and charging from car while towing, solar, and shore power when I have it, which won't be always but enough I want it around.
Here's the system I'm thinking:
Solar will be ground mount, mostly so I can have shade over the trailer and still have solar. It'll probably be a 150 folding "suitcase" solar panel for trips where I don't anticipate a lot of loads and I'll be there a fairly short time (1-5 days). For longer trips, I have a couple of old 235W 56V Vcc house panels in parallel.
I don't particularly expect 110v AC loads, so no inverter, only DC loads.
Short trip expected loads:
Longer trip additional loads:
I plan to mount everything to an appropriate piece of 1/2" plywood, run all the wiring I can, and then put standoffs and a piece of acrylic/plexi over top, which will have a section that's hinged for the disconnect switches (other than the battery, which will be placed right next to it). That will then go into a compartment which does have venting up at the far top to the outside. I might add a small temp sensing fan so if the compartment gets a little warm, it'll turn a small 12v fan on to help provide a little extra airflow.
Solar will be some MC4 pass-through to the outside more or less in the same compartment as the components.
Battery will be in a separate compartment, smaller, with I think 6-8 feet wire run length. Should be close enough for the shut wiring, and I plan to run 4 or 6 awg wiring.
I have cut-off switches on everything so I can isolate them from the battery when not in use, so there won't be any non-useful loads. Also planning on cutting off the battery when parked in storage, although as you'll see the BMV will still be connected since I've ready it's idle draw is in the mA range, so should be fine since it won't be sitting there for too long.
All of the loads will go through a 12v blade fuse box, each fuse sized to the load.
An outstanding question I do have is can I hook the BMV VE.Direct to SmartSolar, it's shown that way in the wiring diagram, but I'm not sure if it does function the way I expect that way.
So, what am I missing, what have I forgotten, what am I doing wrong or could be doing better?
Hi folks, so i'm looking for advice on my wiring schematic that I have drafted for my van conversion.
I'm fairly confident with everything but would really appreciate any comments/feedback.
I've ran the negative from the Orion-Tr smart DC/DC and the negative from the mains charger out to the BMV shunt so these can monitor the incoming load. Is this the correct figuration?
Thanks in advance.
Orion-TR Smart 12/12-30 Isolated: Can the control wire which connects to the H-pin be hard wired to the Central pin of the 7 pin harness?
I assume the H-pin wire goes to the input marked H not the left side as shown in the installation diagram which is marked L on my charger. Is this correct?
I am moving my two 100 Ah Li batteries to my pass-through on my trailer and adding a SmartShunt. I intend to used the same wiring route as the manufacturer--from the tongue battery. I need to buy new wires, as the original wires are a wee bit too short. The original wires are 8 awg but I'm changing it to 6 awg. Will this be a problem? and Do I use the same gauge wire to the Smart Shunt? I also intend to connect the batteries in parallel with 2/0 wire. Is there anything that I'm missing here???
I am laying out the installation of a Orion-TR Smart 12/12-30 Isolated as a charger and found a diagram in the installation instructions. The alternator positive is shown being moved off the Battery with a fuse added and the run between the Alternator and the Orion-TR Charger is unfused. Is this correct?
Can I add a breaker/fuse in the run from the battery to the charger, leaving the alternator battery as originally installed?