question

@jms28

The lynx allows easy expansion on the bus bar, just bolt on another section and voilà, done, more connections. Expansion is easy.

A single bus bar makes expansion needing to be a bit more creative and links made. You can use this though to put a shunt between the battery bank and the consumers and chargers.

You can get modular fuses and the bus bar that fits on that anyway. So many options.

The power in is better if you don't have the lynx shunt (the distributor - unless you want to modify it needs the shunt for the fuse detection leds.) the power in can be modified to take the fuses - a simple google search for the mod.

The one with class t allows strings of lithium.

Usually it comes down to space and how things can be arranged as how you want it to look (and the most important the amp rating needed.)

Thks for your reply!

I've done some further research in the meantime and came to the conclusion that the main value add is how neat cables can be arranged. That, of course, comes at a price and I'm still unsure as to if I am better advised to wire things up manually or whether to go with the Lynx system; also, since the Lynx shunt is NOT an option unfortunately, due to the missing Bluetooth connectivity. Instead, I am considering the Victron Smart Shunt.

• Does the below diagram for my house/ service bank make sense?
• Lynx Distribution + Power In OR better Distribution + Distribution?
• Overkill or reasonable (considering that he two components will come at around 300-400€)?

Two things to consider:

1. Planning on expanding the house/ service bank to 4 batteries in the foreseeable future. In that case, the Lynx system could indeed be very poweful I think
2. Forgot to add in the above drawing but the house/ service bank will be connected to the starter bank via an ACR. Do I rightfully assume that either remaining slot in the Distro or Power In component can be used for this?

Thks!

Fuses are in the distributor. So this should be used for output.

If needed, fuse solar input at source i.e. the panels. Same for the AC charger.

Fuse batteries with on terminal fuses. Many people don't do this for short cables.

If this is a boat, you must fit battery isolators. Think about how permanently on equipment like bilge pumps will work. Even if not a boat, isolators should be fitted.

Smartshunt will only work properly if there's a single negative point so that all battery negatives go through it and nowhere else. Bringing all battery connections to the power in and loads/chargers to the distributor will let you put a smart shunt in the negative between power in and distributor. Ground on the load/system side of the shunt. Don't connect chargers directly to batteries, this bypassed the shunt and will give you incorrect battery readings.

Thks for your input.

Fuses are in the distributor. So this should be used for output.

If needed, fuse solar input at source i.e. the panels. Same for the AC charger.

Hm output as in battery side or...?

Fuse batteries with on terminal fuses. Many people don't do this for short cables.

I have some of those fuse holders and considering to install this time around finally. Guess then I do not need fuses in addition near the bus bar/ Lynx potentially, right?

If this is a boat, you must fit battery isolators. Think about how permanently on equipment like bilge pumps will work. Even if not a boat, isolators should be fitted.

Boat indeed. Hm can you elaborate what for exactly? Currently have an ACR connecting house bank with starter bank (not incl. in diagram), but not sure if that's where you're coming from...?

Smartshunt will only work properly if there's a single negative point so that all battery negatives go through it and nowhere else. Bringing all battery connections to the power in and loads/chargers to the distributor will let you put a smart shunt in the negative between power in and distributor. Ground on the load/system side of the shunt. Don't connect chargers directly to batteries, this bypassed the shunt and will give you incorrect battery readings.

Yes, intention is to connect all battery negatives to same bus bar and all charging sources will go through smart bus as well.

Thank you!

Thanks again for all the replies. After careful consideration, I've come to the following conclusions:

• I will go with the Lynx system - or at least part of it for now

• Why? 3 main reasons:
  1. The neat and secure installation is really appealing
  2. If you put together the equivalent parts individually (bus bars, fuseholder, etc.), savings are actually not thaaat huge as high quality components will cost as well
  3. The modular nature of the system is neat: as stated, I am planning on upgrading to 4 house batteries (in a different location with more space) in the foreseeable future. Opting for the Lynx system allows me to reuse and expand on what I install now

• This brings me to one of the other main conclusions I drew: where my house batteries are currently situated, I do not have a lot of space and need to cram together quite a few components. Hence, I will only go for a single Lynx Power In for the 2 house batteries + various component for now.

• And why the Power In? I came across this helpful article that drew my attention to the fact that I might struggle with the mega fuses in the Distributor, e.g. when only connecting one MPPT charger with lower amps. With the (cheaper!) Power In device, I am flexible and can add whichever fuses I need now or in the future.

The main open question for now is this: how to wire things up in the best way possible? A few thoughts on this:

1. The way I see it, for safety reasons, it is arguably advisable to wire up the house batteries to the Power In individually fused, correct?
2. This makes using the internal positive connections for the batteries the more sensible choice (left out negatives for simplicity):
3. ... VS using the external bus bar connector on the left to connect the batteries in parallel like in the example below:

Would you agree with this assessment? If not, why not?

And could you advise on where in my master piece of art diagram (2.) the smart shunt would need to sit?

Think that'd be all for now. Hopefully the above makes sense. Any input or feedback would be highly welcome!

Best,

Mike