We have problems with blackouts in a off grid installation. We have thisproblema in two systems and in both of them we have installed BYD LVS batteries.
This system it has a Victron Multiplus 10000/140, 4 BYD LVS batteries, a grid inversor Kostal Piko MP 5kw and a Victron color control.
With the batteries at 100% of SOC, after 2 hours aprox the system make a blackout. We don’t know the cause, we try go down the bulk voltatge at 55,4V because we have a hight voltatge warnings.
We have charging the AC current assistent and the PV iverter assistent. We attached the frecuencies configuration.
You know the cause that can cause this blackouts? We have the same problema with another installation, the differences is that the grid inversors is a Sunny boy 6.0 and also there are 6 batteries and a Victron MPPT 450/100.
Also, attached the grafics where it can see the blackouts.
I’ve just ordered a GlobalLink 520 for remote monitoring of my boat solar but can find a difinitive map coverage for the uk. Mainly Gloucestershire.
Has anyone got one in the uk?
I would like to optimise the production in winter of 3 solar panels (360W) horizontally put one above each other at a 60° slope (so the highest would be at about 3m high, and lowest at about 1m high). I live near Dublin in the countryside and I'll be off-grid.
I'm surrounded by trees, the house is 55m from the South, 20m from SE and 40m from SW (see below picture). The good thing is that they loose their leaves in winter and I would say they are more bushy at the bottom than the top.
The question is how do I connect these panels (in parallel or in serie), is there anything special I would need for this scenario ? How smoothly can I add an extra 3 panels to this system to put the number at 6 panels.
I attached some pictures and technical details (the panel would sit on the right of the door starting at the "gutter")
If I'm completely wrong at how to tackle this, you can tell me :). (I have a single slope roof at 11°, pretty bad for solar production in winter ...)
Thanks in advance !!
I want to ask, is more detailed documentation available regarding assistants?
I have a network switch and would like to use a relay from GX to control switching depending on the SOC. If the SOC reached 10%, the relay would switch signal eg NC(or NO), using which I would send an impulse to the grid switch, which would disconnect the PV and connect the distribution grid. If the SOC was at 50%, the relay would switch NO (or NC) and send a signal to switch the grid, where it would disconnect me from the grid and connect to the PV.
I'm just missing the documentation so I don't screw something up :)
Basically it is no science… but the documentation is terrible...
Someone help me, please :))
I want to stay off grid as much and as long as possible, even if I have a stable and available distribution grid. I want to use the distribution grid as little as possible and practically only as a backup. From this case I don't use ESS . A little strange design :))
Or are there paid trainings for this? :))
Many thanks for help.
I'm planning on running my woodworking shop off grid. My biggest 3 phase load is 6HP. I could run this with an 18kva generator to cope with the startup current but I'm then only running the generator at part load which, I gather, isn't necessary a good idea for generator longevity.
My thoughts were to use a smaller generator (say 6kva) for motor running and use 3x multiplus as a power assist for starting.
Am I right in thinking I need 12kva power assist? As the multiplus can withstand short term overloads, does this equate to 3x 6kva (or nearest higher equivalent) or is it 3x 2kva (to give 6kva total)?
The rest of the shop will run off solar/wind.
Many thanks, Nick.
I'm fairly new to Victron products and need some advice for building a system to power my Home-Lab.
Home-Lab should be powered by PV energy as long as there's enough power from pv panels and/or battery storage. As soon as there's no energy left to power my Lab it should automatically switch to Grid power. When there's again energy from pv/battery an automatic transfer to PV energy should occur.
This system shall NOT feed energy to the grid.
Already found a Automatic Transfer Switch with capability of Monitoring battery voltage; as soon as battery voltage drops a certain value it transfer to grid power and back to to PV when battery voltage above threshold. Unfortunately, this ATS is just a mechanical switch by relays. So, no phase sync to 50Hz grid does happen, which is quite dangerous for some reasons.
I very much appreciate any recommendations regarding product selection and design of such a system.
Hi, I'm upgrading our off-grid cottages solar power system with a Victron 2000VA inverter and a SmartShunt, previously it was a pure 12v system used only for lights run through an all-in-one charge controller (NAPS NC 30N).
I've read the inverter manual and the Victron wiring guide but I'm still a bit unsure on how the grounding wires should be connected. I think I've gotten it right based on some examples I've found here in the forums but I'd love if someone could take a look at my plans and tell me if I'm doing anything stupid before I start connecting things.
Looking for some ideas on how to achieve an extension/upgrade to an off-grid system.
3 years old.
Fronius primo 8.2
DC and AC coupled system.
8x BYD B-Plus 2.5 (20kWh total)
We wish to increase the battery capacity however stock of the same type is hard to get. Don’t wish to replace original batteries at this stage.
Also wish to increase the solar, no issues there.
Open to adding another Quattro and therefore having higher power available in the system, along with a new additional battery bank, additional MPPT and extra solar.
Is this our only option, or there any other methods of adding capacity we should consider?
I'm adressing this excellent community with the hope it'll help me solve a problem I've run into recently with my Victron off-grid solar installation.
First of all, the components:
12x 390W 144 half-cell solar panels, wired in 6 parallel groups of 2 in series panel.jpg
1x SmartSolar 150/100 MC4 MPPT (v. 1.59) mppt.jpg
1x Quattro 48/8000/110-2x100 (v. 4.30) inverter.jpg
1x ColorControl GX (v. 2.89) ccgx.jpg
3x PylonTech US3000C 48V Lithium Batteries battery.jpg
Up until now I'm incredibly happy with the setup, everything runs smoothly, I also have a small petrol backup generator I haven't had to use since 2020 wired to one of the AC inputs of the Quattro.
Now for the problem:
Recently I installed a pump for the well, which connects to a VFD regulating startup and some filters, everything wired to the AC output of the Quattro. The pump draws continuous 5000W of power. This has brought a problem to light which I had never noticed before:
The MPPT never draws more than 2600W from the panels! Or to be more specific, and this is what REALLY bugs me, it never draws more than a value that seems to be around the Charge Current Limit multiplied by the Maximum Battery Voltage; in terms of the solar array an interval centered around 33A at 75V. pumprun.jpg
Since the Pylontech batteries have their integrated BMS I can't really manipulate any values, all I can tell is that the CCL declared by the batteries is 44A, and the DCL is 111A (or 37A times 3 units, exactly the numbers from the manual). DVCC is activated with all sharings turned off, and the MPPT is running in networked mode as a Slave.
Now, I've checked and double checked, but at this point I think I'm going crazy. From what I understand, in 48V systems, shouldn't the SmartSolar 150/100 be able to produce up to 5800W (as per the datasheet)? Ideally, what I thought would happen, is that the MPPT would draw as much power as possible from the panels, and then "fill up" the remainder from battery power. What is actually happening is quite the opposite, the MPPT only draws up to the 2600W mentioned before and all of the remaining power is drawn from the batteries. During the day and with the panels in full sunlight and at a temperature of around 30ºC this seems quite stupid, as the battery capacity quickly becomes a bottleneck for the amount of time I can run the pump. What am I doing/understanding wrong?
The only thing I haven't tried yet is setting a limit for the charge current in the DVCC. Might this be the crucial point? How is point 4 in subject 8.4.1 in this link to be interpreted? And point 5?
Any help is welcome! Thanks a lot in advance for any hints or ideas!
I have the idea to super size an offgird system and require some technical feedback if this has been tested yet. The idea is:
Theoretically this would allow for maximum 3 phase power of 360kVA, but a few concerns are present:
Should the above work, I presume it would also work for split phase
Thanks for your feedback
I am a very happy owner of a VE Phoenix inverter 12/500, attached to my solar off-grid system.
I'm using the most efficient refrigerator on the market, the Liebherr TP 1720 which averages to a mind blowing 7W power consumption which for a inner size of 145 liter is just insanely low.
While running the inverter in always ON mode everything works great and this inverter can easily handle the inrush current required, and eventually I am averaging at 11-12W consumption with the overall system, which I really can't complain about.
However, considering that the ECO mode could potentially cut another 5-6W to the above figure it would be great to take advantage of it. Unfortunately it doesn't seems to work with my setup.
When I set this mode, if the refrigerator is cold enough and doesn't require the compressor to start everything runs fine, but as soon as the refrigerator needs to turn on I get an error on the smartphone app related to something like "HIGH AC output alarm". Not sure what is the reason since I can't find much documentation on this error. All I can say is that I just have the refrigerator connected (with its original cable) to the inverter's AC output and nothing else.
When I get this error I just need to switch (on the phone app) to OFF and then to ON and the compressor starts just fine. I'm puzzled about the possible cause.
Concurrently I was just wondering whether the pulse sent in the ECO mode is long enough to allow the fridge's electronics to figure out whether it needs more power or not.
No matter what, to me it would be really great if the pulse duration could be configurable within the app, just like the interval between pulses.
I really would appreciate very much is VE could elaborate more on this topic.
Thank you very so much in advance for an answer and... for making such great products!!
(Just as a curiosity this above mentioned fridge uses a SECOP HXD30AA compressor)
Hi I am a real audiophiliac bitten by the hi-fi bug.
A month ago I lent a Goal Zero Yeti 3000. The Goal Zero is a generator running on batteries. I lent it because I would try to see if there was any improvements in the sound quality running my tube amp and dac off grid. I was using the 230V output but without the charger running.
The sound was much better, but the Yeti 3000 was having some very noisy fans.
So I want to build my own system of some good parts.
When playing I am using around 380w so I figure I could buy a 24V 100Ah LiFePo4 battery and have energy for 4 hours music with a DOD of 50%
I would like to start charging the battery automatic at a given voltages so I don't drain it to much.
So what product(s) should I buy? I have looked at the Phoenix Inverter Smart 24v 230V output, is this the right choice for me?Phoenix Inverter Smart
Hello Everyone, I'm working on off grid solar system on my farm. I have 32 LG BiFacial 410 W solar panels, Voc is 49.4 and Isc is 10.46. This will be based on 48 Volt 4 12 Volt Lithium Batteries 300 Ah connected in series. I was suggested that there will be two sourced of 16 solar panels each source will be connected in series and parallel to victron mppt solar charge controller 250 /100.The capacity of this solar charge controller for watts are around 5800 but each source on my planing solar system watts are 6560 going to each solar charge controller victron 250/100. Is it a safe design? Should I go with victron RS 450/100 solar charge controller? Any suggestion will be appreciated. Thank you in advance. Jessie
I am in the very early stages or designing an off grid Solar power for a Bush Block. I am looking to go with the Multipass 48/3000.
I will have a generator to charge the batteries and as a back up.
I am looking at the advantages and disadvantages of micro-inverters connecting the panels straight into the Multipass (looks like you do this on the outbound side) or using the more traditional MTTP (which I understand from some great videos).
Is it as simple as plugging the panel AC output into the outbound multipass?
Any thoughts or guides would be much appreciated.
- MPPT Smart Solar 100/30
- Phoenix VE.Direkt 800W/1500W
- 4 PV-Module mit Gesamt 600W
- 6 AGM Batterien, 12V, 120Ah. je 2 in Reihe für 24V und davon dann 3 parallel
wie relevant ist denn die Erdung? Im WR Manual habe ich gesehen, ich kann im Gerät zwischen Floating und "echtem" Ground umschalten.
Ich habe in der Nähe einen Brunnen, Material ist unbekannt und Tiefe ebenso, allerdings ist ca. 100cm unter der Erdoberfläche bereits der Wasserspiegel des uns umgebenden Sees (4m Abstand von Ufer zum Brunnen). Den hätte ich jetzt benutzt, um mindestens meine Modulhalterungen zu erden. Naja aber wenn das generell eine gute Sache ist und nicht zuviel Overhead bedeutet, dann würde ich das auch gern gleich richtig machen.
Wonach entscheide ich, ob ich das tun sollte (erden) und eigentlich unabhängig von der Antwort: Hat da jemand mal eine Skizze, wie das aussehen müsste in der Verschaltung?
Achso: das ist keine Anlage auf einem Boot oder sowas, lediglich eine Gartenhütte umgeben von See. Es gibt dort kein Versorgernetz und entsprechend auch keine "richtige" Erde.