I have a number of units i would like to extend the warranty to 10 years.
x3 SmartSolar MPPT RS 450/100
x1 Inverter RS Smart 48V/6000VA (Soon to be x2)
The problem is i have purchased the above items from 3 different dealers/retailers so do i have to go back to each one to extend the warranty or can i ask Victron Direct to do this for me? (think i might already know the answer but...) i imagine their will be others in a similar situation???
If there could be a form that can be filled in on-line it would save me (and others) a lot of time, you could either ask for proof of purchase or just use the retail price list to work out the 10%, any mileage in this?...Please!
The diode in question is severely damaged. Can someone please tell me what the markings are on the diode placed at d27 on the main board? A large film capacitor on the opposite site of the pcb is also damaged from the heat. The trace is burnt from the diode, under the aforementioned capacitor and up to a large coil. Thanks!
Hi, New to the group. How do you find an Victron installer/engineer in the UK please. North West England ideally.
I have two Cerbo GX units and am wondering if there is a specific way to configure the second (slave?) to show the tank inputs on the display connected to the first (main?) Cerbo.
The two units are connected via VE.Can (with a termination plug at both ends of the system), perhaps I should try VE.Bus?
The Touch 70 on the main shows a second device.
I turned on and configured the tank inputs on the slave by plugging in the Touch 70 into the slave.
Cannot figure out how to get the tanks plugged into the slave to show on the main unit.
I'm currently using a MPPT 100/15 with a 12V battery bank (2 x 12V 100Ah Lead Acid batteries in parallel) with 2x100W solar panels. The solar controller's settings are on 14.4V absorption and 13.9V float. The equalization voltage was set to 16.2V but it is disabled and I've never manually triggered the equalization.
I also have a BlueSmart 12/15 charger which I set on power supply mode during the day with a voltage of 13.4V while the solar panels provide power to my system. It's charge mode's settings are similar to the solar charge controller (14.4V absorption, 13.8V float and 13.4V storage).
Earlier today I noticed a strange series of events.
1. The power from my solar panels dropped from around 130W to zero. (it's a sunny day, panels had no shade, I measured the panel voltages and everything seemed fine on the panels and at the cable going into the solar charge controller when unplugged - around 70-80V open circuit voltage). After this the Victron app stated that the charging state is "Off".
2. The reported voltage on the victron connect app showed that the voltage from my solar panels dropped from the normal 65-ish Volts to just above the battery voltage. This was thus different to what I measured with my multimeter at the cables going into the charge controller while they were unplugged.
3. I changed the BlueSmart charger from power supply mode to charger mode, detached the solar panels and measured their voltage (mentioned in point 1).
4. I re-attached the solar panels.
5. Soon thereafter I heard a boiling sound coming from the batteries and noticed the battery voltage going over 15V and steadily climbing.
6. I immediately switched off the BlueSmart charger, but it had no effect.
7. I then detached the solar panels which brought the voltage down again.
8. To investigate I tested this by leaving the BlueSmart charger switched off, and re-attached the solar panels. The voltage started climbing again.
Afterwards I took some screenshots (below). It's quite clear on the screenshots that the voltage climbed each time I re-attached the solar panels.
What I'm seeing is:
- The solar charge controller is in an "off" state.
- The charging current was showing zero
- The power and current from the solar panels were showing zero
- The battery voltage kept on climbing and I heard the Lead Acid batteries boiling.
- Even though an audible boiling sound came from the batteries, the solar power and current and battery charge current all showed zero.
What am I missing?
It almost seem like the battery voltage was chasing the solar voltage. I don't think this was an equalization happening because during "step 7" I did decrease the equalization voltage to 14.5V and the battery voltage still climbed past it to 16V+ before I detached the panels again.
Did my SmartSolar MPPT charge controller break? It's only a few months old now.
Did it perhaps somehow decide the batteries are 24? I double checked the settings and the battery is set to 12V. At no point in time was the battery cables disconnected.
I will be testing everything again in the morning when the sun is back up and if anything changes I will comment on this post.
Hi! me and my partner are planning our electrical system in our campervan. Does this look okay? Does anyone know what diameter of cables are needed? We are both newbies at this :P !
Login for this forum doesnt work for me. I only can log in via lost password. I set a new password and logout. Login in with that new password fails again ... .
I havent been able to ID this inverter/charger so far. please can anyone help. I'm looking for the right user manual.
I have an existing system that I am trying to upgrade/correct. Our original van installer undersized everything and we've been dealing with some issues. The upgrade includes adding appropriate fuses, adding a bus bar (Lynx), swapping an isolator for a DC to DC charger, and upgrading from AGM to Lithium batteries. I already have a Renogy 3000W inverter and a Renogy Wanderer 30A Solar Charger.
Can anyone provide feedback on my wiring diagram to confirm that I'm connecting things correctly? Or, provide insight into what needs to be changed?
Note: I did not add all necessary fuses/disconnects to the diagram. I plan to have a 300A fuse and disconnect between the battery and the Lynx Distributor. In addition, we'll have (1) 125A fuse for 6AWG wire to DC to DC charger, (2) 200A fuses to 2AWG wire to house loads and solar wanderer, and (1) 300A fuse to 4/0 wire to inverter within the Lynx. We will also have a Victron Smart shunt connected between the battery negative and the Lynx.
Hi all, my phoenix 12/375 inverter does not show any load information on the dial. What could be wrong?
I’m long time reader not so much contributor…
I’ve recently installed EasySolar. It works in off-grid as all attempts on connecting to grid failed miserably. I would like to have it so grid can feed excess of demand (above 3kW)
I’m sure it must be a simple way but me and my mate electrician scratching heads with no results…
The way we’ve tried: grid is connected to consumer unit and this is where I have AC-IN fed from. Then AC-OUT from Inverter goes to the same consumer unit. Apparently that should work. Should it? The system also have a current sensor on LIVE grid line, but it doesn’t seem working…
Any suggestions will be very helpful and appreciated.
Hi everyone why is it so hard to try and contact victron? I am wanting parts the part number is SBP210110020 I have told my dealer he says victron haven’t got back yet really seem getting nowhere can anyone on here please help thank you.
Please see attached drawing for my proposed system - I have already bought the Multiplus ii 12/3000 and 4 x Bosch L5013 Leisure batteries.
I have seen in the Victron wiring unlimited info that the 12/3000 may need a 1000a shunt, is that correct or will a 500A be sufficient? I was planning to buy a smartshunt.
Wiring to/from the inverter and battery bank interlinks are 2x50mm2 with 2 x 200A fuses to protect the inverter connection. Also a 300A on the negative side of the leisure battery bank to protect that from vehicle short. Are any other fuses required/too small or large/in the wrong places? Hopefully my drawing is clear enough!
Also I have read about it being undesirable to go from TT to IT in terms of earthing arrangement, do I just run the CU earthing to the vehicle ground which is also connected to the earth of the inverter? I presume the inverter deals with fault current by linking the neutral and earth internally when the shore power is disconnected?
Any advice relating to any of that is helpful, thank you in advance! Is a BatteryProtect a good item to add to the system also? Where would this go? is anything else worth adding? I want no displays internally, all off the phone if possible, to go in a 7m class A motorhome.
I'm about to install an ET340 and now insanity has kicked in.
My brain is telling me that the bottom of the ET340 (pin 4, 5 and 6) are IN (coming from the main switch/provider), and pin 1, 2 and 3 are OUT going to the "house".
However. Looking at the side of the ET340 the arrows are pointing the other way.
Anyone here who can tell me what the correct direction is?
I have a new Multiplus II 48/10000/140 and it worked fine for 3 days then all of a sudden it shut down. It triggered the short circuit protection on my batteries and the AC pass-thru doesn’t work either, it just sends the AC for a couple of seconds and then stops.
I’ve disconnected the batteries and tested those and they’re working fine and the short circuit alarm clears as soon as they’re disconnected.
The battery terminals on the multi show as a short circuit on my meter but I read this could be due to the capacitors and the resistance does increase the longer I hold my meter on. However, if I connect my Cerbo to the battery terminals on the multi with 51v that isn’t able to draw power either but works fine powered from another source.
Does anybody have any idea what’s going on and how to fix this or is it likely a faulty unit?
Thanks very much,