I used to download weekly data from all my installations from VRM. In previous weeks, the downloaded sheet would have information on Generator run hours and average run hours for that whole week. However, recently the sheets no longer have the columns filled out. Now when I download, the sheet has no data on gen run hours or average run hours. Any help I can get on this would be appreciated.
I'm having a hard time finding a minimum bend radius listed for the ve.direct cables in any documentation. The installation I'm working on uses some 2x2 inch (51mm) wire trough and some 2x1 inch. The ve.direct cables are all too long for the raceway runs (using shortest possible lengths) so I'd like to coil up the excess inside that trough, but am concerned about damaging it. Does anyone know the limit or have experience with either successful tight coils or with damaging them by coiling too tightly?
I am looking to install my own ESS - Multiplus II with Pylontech US3000C batteries, solar on MPPTs on the DC side. I am happy to do all the design and install work myself, however I would ideally like to find someone who is MCS certified to sign it all off afterwards and give me a shiny certificate.
Does anyone know of anyone that would be willing to do this kind of thing in the South East of the UK?
I have a Multiplus 5kW 24V connected to Victron LiFePO4 25.6/200Ah Smart batteries with a Victron VE. Bus Battery Management System. The Multiplus has the VE Bus BMS Assistant loaded. The AC detector has also been installed. The battery voltage went low and shut off the inverter and when the generator was started and 230V AC put to the inverter nothing happened. How do I get the system to start up when the generator is ON????
Hi Everyone, i am about to expand my Victron installation and need some advice if i have understood how everything hangs together.
I currently have:
Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 100V 30 amp
2 of smart shunt, one on the leisure battery, one on the vehicle battery.
I want to use a Cerbo GX as the centre of the motorhome monitoring.
This will have
the above three devices.
3x resistive water tank sensors
3 x thermometers (inside, outside and fridge)
Digital input when any of the external doors are opened (get from curtesy light)
Digital input when the vehicle is turned on
Digital input when the smoke alarm sounds
LPG tank sensor level
Victron ac energy sensor monitoring 240volt in amps.(the little black dongle)
Remote access (covered by mobile router)
What i want:
Nice screen showing the status of all the above
Remote Alerting (txt message, push alert) to my mobile when any of the doors open
Remote Alerting when the tanks are low
Remote alerting really on any of the above really.
Appreciate the above is a big kit list and i will build this on the bench first before the install.
Can you see if i have missed anything? It is an expensive piece of work for me and I don’t want to miss anything.
This will be a self install and i will not be going through a distributor.
A question in regards to installing an Orion in my van.
Based on the schematics from the van, there are components which rely on starter battery input while the engine is not running. To make this work, I'm planning to make the installation as described in the simple schema below (fuses,... are left out by purpose).
As you can see there is a bypass relay which will connect the orion IN and OUT while the engine isn't running. The relay and Orion will be triggered by the D+ signal when this becomes high and breaking the 'short circuit' and start the Orion when the engine is running.
Will the IN and OUT circuit shortage be of any problem for the Orion when the engine isn't running?
Another potential solution would be to place a SPDT relay between the Orion OUT and the EBL in the schema below. When the engine isn't running, the starter battery will be directly connected to the EBL. When the engine is running, the Orion and the EBL will be connected.
Can this solution work, due to the fact that while the engine is OFF, the Orion will not 'see' the leisure battery until the relay is switched by the D+ high signal.
Another question. When I start the Orion based on the H trigger, will it start immediately or is there a delay?
Thanks in advance!
I am trying to add a new installation on the VRM portal. It is the Victron Ethernet Remote.
After entering the IMEI device and pressing the "Request Access" button, the following message is displayed:
How can I find out who is the administrator of the device and his email and add myself to the administrators?
What are recommended BMV 712 settings for my 2x 200Ah LiFePo batteries? I’m not clear on Charged Voltage, Tail Current, etc. Thank you!
Hi all, I thought I'd help out a neighbour who has exactly the same system as me, except he had old lead acid batteries.
He bought some new Pylontechs and wanted them fitted. I did this, then copied all settings from my system to his, including adding ESS.
His system had never been set up correctly from the start and had never worked well.
I had to battle a bit because his installer had passworded some things, and was now out of contact/gone bust.
[image]I thought I'd done everything - except updating the firmware of one of his two MPPT controllers as I didn't have the USB cable with me. The other is a Smart unit so I could update it via a bluetooth connection.
However, all is not working properly. The dashboard has a warning at the top "System overview - no grid meter alarm: Warning".
the block diagram has a Critical Loads box and is showing his house drawing from that, while the AC Loads box shows no power being drawn. (The house is connected to AC o/p1, nothing is connected to o/p2).
And the PC charger is doing nothing, despite it being a sunny day.
I'd appreciate any help you can offer!
While the manual mentions the torque specs for the battery connectors (12 Nm) and the ground busbar (1.6 Nm), there's no specific mention for AC-in/-out. Is it the same as on the ground busbar? And is 1.6 Nm really the correct torque for these M6 bolts?
I have installed an Orion isolated DC-DC charger 12v-12v 18A. I wired the positive (black) and negative (white) wires from the 7-pin to the input side of the charger. Then I wired the output side to the battery via the positive and negative busbars. See attached diagram. The truck has 10 ga wire with a 30A fuse to the 7- pin. With the trailer connected to the 7 pin but not attached to the truck hitch, the charger is working and putting about 17 A into the batteries. However the trailer running lights and turn signals are not working.
I presume that is because the white (negative) 7 pin wire is now connected to the input side of the charger and I have interrupted the circuit for the trailer running lights. (Perhaps I should have gotten a non-isolated charger...)
But now what? I don't want to rely on the hitch to create a negative contact between trailer and the truck. Can I connect both the negative input and output sides of the isolated charger to the negative bus and also reattach the white (negative) 7 pin wire to the negative busbar?
I need right angle VE Direct cables that bend away from the VE Can RJ45 connectors because my Cerbo GX needs to be routed in a tight spot below my Bilge switch. Wouldn’t it be better to give the customer a choice which way the angled connector goes?
Losing the will to live with my inverter charger, I solved the AC disconnected issue, turns out it was a dodgy hook up panel on the site i'm on. However now my Multiplus is stuck in bulk/absorption mode with no float despite settings, this happened after updating to latest firmware v.500.
It seems I solve one problem gets and another pops up, really not impressed with Victron and the complete lack of technicians/installers. On the UK map its a bloke in Devon (South Western coast and a company in Fareham across the whole south of the UK!
I live in Bournemouth and theres nothing literally 40 to 50 miles on any point of the compass.
Given the ubiquity of victron products on the net i expected like Truma, Dometic, Webasto etc i'd put in my post code and find half a dozen tech's within 20 to 30 miles of where i live not one at either end of the coast of my country!
Theres an embarassing lack of support in the UK looking at the map on Victrons site given you cant not see victron products when you type the word 'van' into google......................................
My wife and I took the plunge and bought a 1984 Roughwater Trawler for live-aboard (Semi-retirement). It needs a major upgrade when it comes to the electrical side of things that's for sure. So far I have made a list of the upgrades I'd like to make.
MultiPlus II 12/3000
Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30A (360W) Isolated DC-DC charger
Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150|70
Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor
Smart Battery Protect 100A
Galvanic Isolator VDI-32
GX Touch 50
6x 200W Solar Panels
3x 200Ah AGM Batteries
Now the List that i'm going by currently is from 3000w INVERTER | 400-600Ah | 400 TO 1200W SOLAR-CAMPER by Explorist.life website. I have noticed some wiring diagrams with a battery Isolator and some without when it comes to the Home battery and starter battery. With me using the Isolated Orion do I need to get the battery isolator as well or no?
This question was asked by nekktt in Dec 14 2020 at 5:15 AM and never answered. I am having the same issue. My VE.bus smart dongle connects via Bluetooth. I followed the recommended connection sequence. The blinking blue light on the VE bus turns solid blue once connected. The Victron Connect app scans, but always returns with no devices found. I have restarted the BT connection. I have restarted the V-Connect app. No changes.
VE.bus smart dongle is connected to a Multi-plus 2000 via RJ-45, which also does not show up in the app. At this point, the V-Connect app is useless, as is the smart dongle. This is supposed to be the easy part.