[image]I am wiring up my Victron BMV-712
I see in the instructions that the Temp Sensor + needs to plug into B2 on the Shunt, where does the Black wire lead go on the Temp sensor plug into?
OK, I get it ... the original POS Supply Cables are not used because the Temp sensor wire doubles at the POS cable when used.
Hello, everyone, I would like to start a current generator via the normally open contact of the victron relay. Unfortunately I don't know how to connect the relay and whether the relay contacts can handle a voltage of 230V. I am happy about your help
Hey, i'm currently working on a small mobile solar station with a Victron Li-Ion-Battery for education purposes. When the station is outside it should yield its energy via an solar panel and the Victron MPPT charge controller. When not in use, it will probably stay inside for a longer time. For this case it would be great if the battery coulld be charged via the Victron Blue Smart charger off the grid. Is it possible to connect both devices, the Blue Smart Charger and the MPPT solar charger, in parallel to the Li-Ion battery? (VE.Bus BMS will be installed)
To my understanding, since both devices work in the same output voltage range, this shouldn't be a problem.
Many thanks in advance
I was going to design my solar system to have a dual pole breaker between the pv array and the mppt, for extra safety.
The following statement on the Victron mppt manual made me doubt on whether using a dual breaker is a good idea or not:
A switch, circuit breaker, or other device, either AC or DC, shall not be installed in a grounded conductor if operation of that switch, circuit breaker, or other device leaves the grounded conductor in an un-grounded state while the system remains energized.
I'm just not sure what energized means here, given that the pv array is technically a charge source. Would a single pole breaker be a more appropriate choice on a grounded DC system?
I am an electrician and planning a ESS-system for my new house in Austria.
3x Multiplus-II 5000 (3-phase) with 48V Lithium-Battery (maybe some Pylontech US3000), with about 6kWp Fronius Symo PV-Inverter connected on AC-Out for higher self-consumption and UPS in case of grid failure.
Is there an extra anti-islanding-relay necesarry, or is the anti-islanding-protection from the Multiplus II enough? I only find the TOR D4 Certificate for Multiplus-II 3000!
Thanks for the Answers!
I am installing a Multi 800 va 12v connected with 35mm2 wire to a 250 Ah Ltihium battery.
Question 1: On the Dc connector of the multi, do you put anything on the cable , or just bare is fine ?
Question 2: I want to put a remote control (3 way switch) to turn it off and on. Is a digital multi control necessary on a security point of vue (the fact that you can reduce the amperage imput ) ?
And if not , i read that a rocket 3 way switch 15 A could do it ? There are plenty of topics but there are kind of cutting short at the end. I just wanted to know if 1.5 mm2 wire could do it (4meters away from the multi) and what fuse could i use to protect the wire ?
I am a beginner so its a beginner question. Just trying to improve.
I have 2 6v batteries in series. I am installing the BMV 712 monitor shunt on the negative directly after the battery then on to the trailer. My question is, can the red power wire for the monitor go to the positive of the same battery, or should I go to the first battery in the series?
Given the length of the multiplus compact 2kva, i need to mount it horizontal (sideways) on the van wall to make it fit. The manual doesn't really state that it can't be done, but the mounting points included don't really lend to mounting in that orientation. I have considered creating a ledge with angle aluminum to rest it on while using the included cleat.
Is there any restriction to mounting it this way other than airflow? Ventilation is not an issue.
I don't have the vertical clearance in the bay of our class A to install a Multiplus-II 2x120V inverter. Can it be installed in a horizontal position either on its side or on its back? The installation instructions don't say how it should be mounted except that it can be wall mounted. So are there no restrictions on mounting orientation?
I have recently purchased:
- 2 x 48v Pylontech 3.55kwh Batteries
- Victron Multiplus II 48/5000
- Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150/70
- Victron Cerbo GX
- 6 x LG Neon 2 360w Solar Panels
I am wondering what fuses, isolators, circuit breakers and any other products do I need to fully complete and install my system. Do I need a DC Fuse Disconnector straight after the Batteries? Do I need a Lynx Distributor, if yes, what does it do. It would be awesome if somebody could draw a diagram where each isolator, fuse or circuit breaker goes in my setup. Any help will be much appreciated.
I have a technical question for you.
I already have a PV system with SolarEdge SE8K (the new one without display) inverter and a Senec V2.1 storage with 7.5kw battery.
Please do not tell me if this makes financial sense or not, I know it does not make sense :-)
But you can suggest me a cheaper / better solution.
The Senec storage has already a zero control at my house power connection (ergo I have a consumption and too little PV pushes the Senec battery power after / If I have PV surplus and the battery is not yet full the Senec is charged / etc.)
- I would like to install an additional independent second battery in my house.
- Planned here would be a Victron Multiplus II 48V 3000 watts
- The Multiplus together with a new to be purchased EM24 should also create a zero power regulation
- If that runs cleanly, cancel the parallel operation in 6-12 month and sell the Senec storage
The goal is
- when my Senec battery is full and the zero regulation from the Multiplus / EM24 detects a feed that my MultiPlus charges the battery pack on the Multiplus
- if my Senec delivers power to the house grid (e.g. at night or at noon while cooking) and it does not manage to cover the power demand or is empty, that my MultiPlus II / EM24 detects a grid draw, the Multiplus also delivers power to the house.
- Would this be possible with a MultiPlus 2 and EM24?
- Can I set the MultiPlus 2 so that it does not start at 20 watts at the house connection and regulates to zero but at a higher threshold value, say only from 100 watts reference / feed? The background is that the two zero controls of the Senec and MultiPlus should not work against each other.
Why the whole thing?
I am extremely dissatisfied with my Senec and want to build a parallel battery, observe this over max. 1 year and then throw out the Senec. And because I have maximum flexibility with a MultiPlus (expand battery / etc.).
PS: hope you understand my terrible englisch, normaly i speak germany
There are two ports on the left corner of the circuit board to the left of the positive battery stud. I assume that either will work, but I can find no documentation describing them. I know that some competitor’s products can be damaged by pugging cables into the wrong ports, so being cautious….
Installing MP 3000 in a 5th wheel. Confused over gauge of wire to use on chassis ground lug to RV frame? Have read where it should be same awg of "conductor" wires? Think abyc standard specifies so.
I'm using 4/0 battery/inverter DC cables and have 400ah battery bank (lithium).
What chassis ground wire size is correct?
I'm about out install my Orion and I have a couple location questions.
-It recommends 10cm clearance on both the top and bottom. I'll be right at that. Maybe very slightly less. Being that my location allows me to drill some vent holes behind it, would that help cool it?
-Is there any problem with mounting it on plywood? I know it runs hot, but I'd assume that I don't need to concern myself unless there is plastic or something else that is really sensitive to heat. I could mount it to aluminum brackets if necessary.
How to configuration six inverters quattro in 3 phase
I am buying a 2003 Carver 444 and a survey has revealed that the chargers are bad and need to be replaced. There are two chargers on board at the moment and I am changing them out to one Multiplus 12/3000/120. There is a genset battery, two house batteries and two starter batteries. I have the Multiplus and the galvonic isolator for the shore power. I am thinking that I can connect the genset batt to one zone. The other four batteries would be run in parallel to the zone two for a total of 280ah. I am thinking that I can install the Cyrix-Ct (one to each starter battery) in the parallel that would allow me use the amp hours of all four batteries, but not let me drain the starter batteries so I can start the motors. Besides adding a Cerbo GX to monitor things on the MFD, Am I missing anything? or am i about to blow my boat up?
I am completely new to all of this. I've purchased a travel trailer that has this controller; don't yet have solar panels. It came with what I learned is a jumper, inserted where I will need to plug the BlueTooth dongle.
Can someone please explain to me what the jumper is for, when I might need it, and how will that work once I get the Bluetooth dongle and it is plugged in there? Or is it something I insert and then that does something?
Sorry for what must seem like dumb questions, but I really don't understand this at all.
picture below -- it's rotated for some reason. Shows the jumper's original placement. Now it is out, taped to my manual.
Necesito ayuda para saber a qué bateria conectar los ojales del smart dongle en un banco de baterias de 24v(12x2v) en serie
I am a new owner of a LTV RV and don’t know much about electricity. I hope you will let me know if this is the correct installation of a Victron Smart Shunt for my two lithium batters that are receiving input from 4 solar panels. (photo attached) Thanks.
I just installed a BMV-712 Smart into a Jayco Melbourne 24L. Upon install, it is showing only Voltage readings. If I turn devices on, the voltage falls. If I turn them back off, it climbs backup. If I hook up to 120V, it shows 13.52v. However, it is not showing any amps. This stays at 0amps.
The system is connected to a Duralast 27DC and a Duralast 24MD-DL that are in parallel.
I tried a plethora of sources and videos, but still could not figure out exactly what the issue could be.
Should the second negative wire (chassis ground) of the 24MD-DL battery be connected to the shunt? or because they are in parallel, connected to the Negative of the 27DC?
If I do need the shunt on the other side... is it better to have the shunt closer to the ground? The two compartments are about 5 feet apart as a wire would travel.
Hi, I have a Mplus 12/3000/120.
As I read in the manual, you can install Mplus Horizontal on its back.
Now my question is, can I put it on it's left side (Mechanically wise)?
It will be installed on with the back clamp on the backwall, and rest on the left side on a shelf.
I will make a hole in the shelf to prevent blocking of venthole.
The cabinet itself is forced ventilated, so I dont' expect issues there.
But I want to know sure about the mechanical limitations.
Actually there's more space on both upper and bottom side, instead of when I would install it on it's back :)
I would appreciate some feedback on my Victron installation drawing in general. I also have a question regarding the Victron blue smart IP65 charger.
I am installing this charger in a van. My question is: can this charger be plugged in even if the system is drawing DC power to appliances like the fridge? Also fuse recommendations on for a permanent installation.
Thanks heaps for answers // Henrik
I’ve gotten myself into a little bit of a spaghetti of a mess trying to rely on my memory with everything coming in and out of the control box for my setup...
basically, all wiring and devices are mounted and wired in and out of the control box, making itself and the device easily removable if required because, both my 100ah deep cycle and the control box will be in the wheel well in the back of my Outback.
I’m hoping someone who is kind enough to help me out with putting together a diagram with the appropriate midi holders in place with what I’m trying to achieve here, I’ll be posting up photos shortly also with how far I’ve gotten so far.
Ultimate goal is to have it looking simple but, fully functional with the ability to show customers what’s possible as well as easy access to its fuses if required.
cheers and thanks all!
I’ll note that -
A. Yes I’ll have ventilation added through the box for the MPPT via a Load controlled fan.
B. I haven’t added a Anderson for the Auxiliary Battery as of yet to the box, however - it will be located on the opposite side to the Fridge output
We have different consumers connected to AC1 and AC2 output on our multiplus 12/3000/120 installed in a van. We do have a BMV712 and a Digital Multi Contol connected on the VE.Bus limiting the input current and controlling the battery.
When input is connected to grid, AC1 (with power assist) and AC2 are working fine with input current limit set on multi control.
When we use a generator (Honda 22E Inverter) as input, the multiplus disconencts after some time completely from input even with very low load on AC1/AC2 (far beond power delivery of the generator). AC2 gets offline and does only recover for some short period afte 2 minutes. AC2 alternates on and off.
The multiplus is connected to ground on van chasiss as well as the PEN of input is connected to van chassis. During operation van chassis is grounded by grounding rod.
What is wrong with the configuration? Grounding issue? Specific generator issue?
Can the Battery Monitor BMV-712 be mounted in the wall mount enclosure with the cable hole facing up?
From the manual;
The AC output cable can be connected directly to the terminal block ‘AC-out’.
From left to right: “N” (neutral) , “L2” (phase 2), “PE” (earth) and “L1” (phase 1)
With its PowerAssist feature the Multi can add up to 3kVA (that is 3000 / 120 = 25A) to the output L1 during periods of peak power requirement. Together with a maximum input current of 50A this means that the output can supply up to 50 + 25 = 75 A. An earth leakage circuit breaker and a fuse or circuit breaker rated to support the expected load must be included in series with the output, and cable cross-section must be sized accordingly. Victron Energy recommends to use the Blue Sea systems GFCI circuit breakersPN. 309X or 310X. The maximum rating of the fuse or circuit breaker is 75A.
so it looks like a 75A GFCI main coming into the panel is needed. I can't seem to find the part numbers listed on Blue Sea's website nor do I see any GFCI breaker listed at 75A. I also am having a hard time finding an alternative source for a breaker with these specs can I get a link to something that would work?
I am planning an install of a MultiPlus II in a Winnebago RV that has a "Powerline EMS" The idea behind the device is it manages current draw to make sure the appliances don't draw to much power when connected to 20 or 30 amp service. has anyone installed a multiplus where a powerline or similar EMS system was in place? do you keep it or remove it? my thought is the multiplus will provide similar functionality and the EMS might confuse the multiplus so it should be removed but I would like to hear other opinions.
[image]What is the correct way to install the smartshunt on my battery bank ?!
I have 2 battery (12v) in parallell, and 2 VE Blue Smart 75/15 charges (synchronize charging)
I want to install my Dc to Dc charger at the front of my tear drop travel trailer and do not think it is installed right.
I have black and white neutral wires coming out of my hitch fork to the trailer battery. What minimally do I have to do to make it work at that location (it is in a closed box location) ?.
also, I bridged the ground on my Victron as I don’t need it isolated Can I do that?