lead-acid

Buenas noches,

Tengo una instalación fotovoltaica trifásica con 3 Multiplus 3000/48/35-16 y un Fronius Symo con Ac-couplin. Baterías ácido plomo 750ah (Vesna Topzs 750).

Tengo red pública estable como apoyo.

He instalado recientemente el asistente ESS y no consigo la correcta configuración.

Podrían decirme la correcta configuración en el veconfigure3?

Los equipos Multiplus que tengo pueden inyectar a red? Adjunto imagen

Me están notificando batería baja continuamente, como puedo solucionarlo?

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Un saludo

Miguel Roque

Gracias

When you have a vehicle start battery that is lead acid and charged by alternator, can you use either the smart bms12/200 or BMS 12/200 to charge lithium batteries from the tow vehicle?

I just bought an MPPT 100/15 as an upgrade to my system but disappointed to find there's no profile for lead acid batteries. Expected more from such a high quality controller.

I'm using a varta LFD90 EFB battery but the manufacturer does not supply any data for a charging profile.

Can I use one of the default gel profiles or will it damage the battery by staying too long in the absorbtion stage?

It's for a micro camper for occasional weekend use that will have an 80w panel on the roof which I want to use to ensure the leisure battery gets a more complete charge than the split charging system can give it.

Been all through the website and this forum and found very little information that wasn't vague or unhelpful.

I can't believe victron would sell this product without even considering that someone might want to use it with lead acid leisure batteries!

Good Day All

I am looking at purchasing a Smart Orion-Tr 12/12, either the 18 or the 30Amp.

I currently have a 80Amp Alternator with a Lead Acid Starter Battery in my Land Rover Defender. I want to primarily charge using the DC DC charger and then I will have a separate MPPT for backup Portable Solar Charging.

I am just going to power some basic items like a small fridge and lights.

I want my Auxiliary battery to be 100Ah and I want to be able to use either a Lead Acid or Lithium in the future. I prefer the idea of the Lithium Battery but sometimes when you are in the middle of no where, it can be good to have a secondary starter battery. My concern is that the 30Amp is too much current for charging100Ah lead acid and that the 18Amp is not efficient enough for the Lithium Battery. Which unit would be the best?

Also I do not see a profile for lead acid on the VictronConnect App, how would one start to setup a profile for this?


Kind Regards

Bradley

i find it unbelievabe that victron have not produced a more detailed version of charge rates. I have the ip67 24v blue smart charger, and could go to advanced settings, and put in what they say.....but they won’t tell, WHY.?

Afternoon,

I have looked through the internet for the right settings for the Tupperware batteries dt120, I have the general info for a st acid battery but nothing specific.

Does anybody know

1, what are the battery specific voltages?

What charge controller setting s should I use?

Thanks,

Simon

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Hi All

Just had this installed in my Sprinter Euro 6

Tried to set up the app but there is no settings for a 12V lead acid.

I only have one battery to charge which is a Newmax LV26MF 95ah.

My normal driving is min 12 hours.

These are the current settings

I've had them for almost two years. They are generic alibaba type SLAs. It seems like the capacity is getting really bad, such than the SOC is more than 25% off compared to the rated capacity. I never let them go lower than 60% according to the original SOC calculation. I'm not in an area with a lot of daylight hours currently. They're supposed to be 12v 250AH SLAs, and I have 4 of them in a 24v configuration to be 24v at 500AH. Here are my graphs and charge/BMV settings, as you can see it goes to 24v at like 80% SOC. 100% SOC sync happens when the batteries are getting like 300watts. Midpoint looks okay so shouldn't be a bad cell. Is there anything I can do aside from halving the BMV amp hours?

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I have just purchased a SmartSolar 100/20 for my 250watt panel and 4 Trojan T105 batteries (12 volt system, 400 amp hours).

I find the VictronConnect App a little confusing:

1. The "Charge voltages" settings within "Expert mode" show "Absorption voltage", "Float voltage" and Equalization voltage". Why is there no setting for Bulk voltage?

(My T105s need 14.8v. Surely I don't set the Absorption voltage to 14.8 do I?)

2. I would have thought that one of the pulldowns for "Battery preset" would be Lead Acid..... Instead I see things like AGM Spiral Cell, Gel Victron Long life, PzS Tubular plate traction(1), (2) and (3). Do I have to change the rotary dial to see the lead Acid option pulldown? Or do I have to go into a custom setting/expert mode to set something as common as a Lead Acid battery?

Hello Techs,
I have a 24V system, with 2 closed (mainentance free) Lead Acid battery's of 220Ah, charged by a Quattro, CCGX controlled.
Last years my mid point devition stayed around 0,1 - 0,2 %, currently it is rising to 0,4 - 0,5 %, even when the Quattro is in Storage mode.

Do I need to do something already?

Harold

I came across this blog entry which basically says that, for lead acid batteries, lower temperatures require higher charging voltage. Can anyone please explain why this is true, or point to an authoritative source?

I did ask this question on Chemistry SE a while ago, and those guys seem to be of the opposite opinion: higher temps need higher voltage.

Intuitively I disagree with them and agree with the blog post: lower temps need more power to move molecules around, remove sulphate crystals etc. But I seek a definitive authoritative explanation.

Hello,

I have an IP22 3 Output 15 amp charger fitted to my cargo trailer. The trailer is fitted with three 70ah deep cycle batteries connected in parallel. After using the batteries the charger starts to charge at 15 amps during the bulk charge phase. During this stage the batteries start to boil, the batteries does not heat up but I can hear the bubbling when I put my ear close to the batteries. It sounds exactly like when you put you ear to a can of soda after opening it.

From what I have managed to research about lead acid batteries they should be able to charge at 0.3C, seeing that the batteries are 70ah they should be able to safely charge at a current of up to 21 amps. From what I understand the charger also outputs 15 amp which is then equally split between the three outputs, so that means that the batteries should not be able to be charged at more than 5 amps. I have never had this with my Ctek charger which also charged at 5 amps.

Is this normal or should the batteries not be doing this at all? I know the flooded batteries tend to form small bubbles during charing, but this sounds a bit extreme to be just normal gassing.

Below is a diagram of how my system is wired.

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I have also attached a screenshot of the settings I currently use to prevent the boiling of the batteries.

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Any help or feedback would be appreciated.

Kind regards

Charl Jooste

Hi, hope you are all well? I am looking for someone to point me in the right direction of how to approach and where to find some upgraded batteries for my off-grid system please.

I have a BlueSolar MPPT 150v / 70A, Quattro 48i/10000/140 inverter and 20 batteries that I'm told provide 11.98 amp hours at 48v. Also have a CCGX that I use for (basic) remote access.

At present there aren't any issues with the batteries and they seem to keep their charge as well as they have ever done, but they have been in a few years and when I bought this place I knew they would need replacing sometime.

Any help and advice on which batteries to get and where to get them please? I don't have a limitless budget but don't want to do it on a shoestring as I want them to last.

Also, would there be a need to amend / upgrade any of the existing kit if and when the batteries were replaced?

Someone who works on a large hydro project suggested to me that gel rather than lead-acid would be the way forwards.

Any help, advice or general shoving in the right direction would be much appreciated.

Please note though, I inherited this system and I far from a novice let alone an expert, so it will have to be in words of two or less syllables if I am going to grasp it!

Very much appreciated.

Paul (UK)

Looking for a dc to dc charger to charge my 280 ah 24 v / 6800wh lifepo4 electric trolling motor drive battery from my 200 ah 12 v starter battery. (50 Amp 12V alternator on main engine)

Can you give me an advice what kind of dc to dc charger would suit my needs ?

something like a orion tr smart 12/24-15a (360w) isolated dc-dc charger should work ?

I am using a 3 Phase System with a MppT + Smart Shunt + Color Display .

Problem is: Display shows Discharge on Battery, see Pic1, although the only POSSIBLE way for the currrent to go is to charge the Battery. The LEAD Battery is charging per acid reading.

With the settings of the Battery i know for sure that they might be incorrect - standadized settings.

The smart Shunt is polarized correctly - MINUS to System to GND System with 3 Phase System; Minus to Battery to Minus Pole directly on one Pole.

With this setup I already had a correct Current/Charge Reading once; I did however take too much out of battery (battery acid reading showed enough SOC but Display had a lower percentage saved for safety meassures - so battery was in fact still ok to be used - Display did not activate Grid support as it should have - it now does) and the polarization inverted on its own. It went from low percentage to suddenly 100% with negative currentpolarization.

Another issue I face/question I have is that with disconnected Grid and disconnected Load, the only apparent path for the current to take is to charge the Battery. However as you can see in pic 2 the battery still shows a discharge, the Mppt shows correctly positive 5A and positive voltage ( instead of -1A what Color Display shows). Also there are roughly 600W missing in the System ( PV brought a constant of 700W so there is no fluctuation there either.

To summarize my two issues are: Why does my battery charge but is displayed as discharge when Polarization to Battery should be correct

Why am I missing several Hundreds Watts in Display and why does MPPT show a different Current than Color Grid.

All Loadcomponents from System are hooked up on 3Phase system. Nothing else is hooked up inbetween so I am not sending Watts elsewhere undocumented.

Please Help

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