Hi,

I have 3 solar panels 225 Wp and a 100/30 victron smart solar mppt.

Panels:

Voc: 36,7V

Im: 7,53A

The panels are second hand and come from a big factory roof. So efficiency could be -10%.

The question I have is:

How can I calculate the best setup for the 3 panels? Will all three panels to the south give me the most yield or could it also be that 1 panel to SE, 1 to E and 1 to SW gives the best yield?

The voltage of all 3 panels in series would just exceed the 100V parameter so that is no option for this controller. But maybe that's an option with different wind direction per panel?

And after reading some information it seems that parallel is the way to go of you connect panels with different wind directions or different shading?

Hopefully someone can shine some light on this :)

Thanks in advance

My supplier has sent me links to the Windows-compatible utilities
VictronConnectInstaller.exe and VECSetup_B.exe

Which are no use to me, running Linux Mint 20.

I have tried the Linux VictronConnect-x86_64-v5.52.AppImage, which gets stuck doing nothing. Can anyone help with the Linux alternative to the two above, please?

Am I wrong to expect it to connect through the Internet connection?

Thank you.

I am in need of some guidance regarding the steps necessary to properly pre-charge a Multiplus 3000 attached to a 24 volt battery. I have found very little credible information available regarding this topic. After having built a Victron system, I am now finding that even with the use of two different resistors, attempting to connect the battery cable results is a substantial spark. The following summarizes the steps I have taken this morning:

Connect the hot 2/0 cable to the battery.

1. Turn on the Blue Sea Systems M Series Battery switch, leaving on during the following two steps.
2. Attach a 50 watt\25 ohm metal cased resistor to the black 2/0 battery cable, then touching the negative battery post to the resistor contact for 10-15 seconds (clicks are heard from the Multiplus, lights on the Victron shunt, distributor, Cerbo GX, and Victron Smart Solar 150\45 MPPT etc light up).
3. Disconnect the resistor from the battery post and remove, attempt to connect the black 2/0 battery cable to the negative post.

After experiencing a substantial spark, I attempted to complete the above process using a metal 100 watt\2 ohm resistor instead, having the same results.

Can someone provide me with guidance? Am I not following the correct steps to properly pre-charge the Multiplus?

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Can I snap these small pieces that separate the cables? The ones circled in red. Just the piece that splits it in half, not the piece between +/-

What is their intended purpose? I need to fit a large cable and don't think it'll fit with this separator.

I have an existing system that I am trying to upgrade/correct. Our original van installer undersized everything and we've been dealing with some issues. The upgrade includes adding appropriate fuses, adding a bus bar (Lynx), swapping an isolator for a DC to DC charger, and upgrading from AGM to Lithium batteries. I already have a Renogy 3000W inverter and a Renogy Wanderer 30A Solar Charger.

Can anyone provide feedback on my wiring diagram to confirm that I'm connecting things correctly? Or, provide insight into what needs to be changed?

Note: I did not add all necessary fuses/disconnects to the diagram. I plan to have a 300A fuse and disconnect between the battery and the Lynx Distributor. In addition, we'll have (1) 125A fuse for 6AWG wire to DC to DC charger, (2) 200A fuses to 2AWG wire to house loads and solar wanderer, and (1) 300A fuse to 4/0 wire to inverter within the Lynx. We will also have a Victron Smart shunt connected between the battery negative and the Lynx.

Victron Diagram.pdf

Hello!

I'm looking at using a

Viktron Energy setup to provide off-grid power. The proposed setup at the moment is:

Sl. No.	Component	Part No.	Name	Qty	Link
1	Battery		LFPSmart 25,6/200-a	2	Lithium Battery Smart 12,8V & 25,6V - Victron Energy
2	Battery Management System	BMS300200200	VE.Bus BMS V2	1	VE.Bus BMS / VE.Bus BMS V2 - Victron Energy
3	Inverter/Charger/GX device		EasySolar-II 48/5000/70-50 MPPT 250/100 GX	1	Datasheet-EasySolar-II-24V-48V-3kVA-48V-5kVA-MPPT-250-70-100-GX-EN.pdf (victronenergy.com.au)
4	Solar Panels	SPM043602402	BlueSolar Monocrystalline Panels	4	Datasheet-BlueSolar-Monocrystalline-Panels-EN.pdf (victronenergy.com.au)

I would really appreciate if someone could confirm that this setup would work to provide power. Could someone also guide me on how to choose cables.

Any and all responses are appreciated.

Does anyone have a link for parts etc to create the Panasonic Control Interfacing Unit (CIU) for the DCB-105 battery? Looks like Allen Bradley Micro 850 PLC and ICP converter.

Hi All,

I have a 12V system with the following AC Input Control configuration:-

Connect when SOC drops below: Disabled

Connect when battery voltage drops below: 10.9V - it is this setting that doesn't work!!

Delay before connection: 0ms

Disconnect AC input on: Battery Voltage

Disconnect when voltage higher than: 11.3V

Delay before disconnection: 0ms

I recall it did work when I had the "Connect when SOC drops below:" enabled but I found this method inaccurate with my Ni-Fe battery type (all else works fine). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance...

wondered if anyone had interfaced a Solaredge SE9K three phase to three quattros and a battery? wanted to keep the origional system which is the solaredge as it has a fit meter and warranty and was in the buildind i purchased. i have brought with me my 50kw BYD barreries a 2 victron Quattro 15k's and purchased another to run in three phase config. Happy to pay for some support if needed

So let me start with saying that my system was designed by someone in the community and I was never given a layout, was sent fuses and breakers and only told what else to buy. We are no longer in communication and I need some assistance. I have: Victron Multiplus 24/3000/70 Victron charge controller 150/60 Victron charge controller 100/50 Victron lynx distributor Victron smart shunt Sterling b2b charger 70a Ac/dc panel 2x 25.6v, 200ah lifepo4 server rack batteries with built in 100a breakers 2x 70a breakers, 1x 80a, 1x 100a 2x 100a fuses, 1x 125a, 1x 250a I know I need a step down converter for the dc side of the panel. The part I’m having trouble understanding is how all of this is supposed to connect to the lynx distributor. Any help is greatly appreciated, my family would love to get our adventures started.

Question for the community . I have been 100% AGM for many years and consider myself an expert at it - but finally decided to convert one of my vans to LifePO4. No regrets so far its amazing but before I make any mistakes I have some questions. For reference , here is my setup and specs:

Victron MPPT 100/30 Solar Charger

Victron Orion TR-Smart DC:DC Charger

Victron Blue Smart IP22 x1 20A (AGM Vehicle Battery Bank 160AH)

Victron Blue Smart IP22 x1 30A (LifePO4 House Battery Bank 200AH)

The LifePO4 Manufacturer of the 200AH Smart Battery specs state :

15V Over Voltage Cutoff

14.6V Absorption

13.8V Float

10.8V Low Voltage Cutoff

I have little experience with LifePo4 - so pardon me if my questions are juvenile or if they cross over into the AGM realm - I am probably overthinking it - but I do need to come up to speed on this quickly because I am more than likely going to have a bunch of these conversions soon and I want to make sure I get it all right on my personal. vehicle before I mess up someone elses.

Questions:

1> Is it better to not fully charge the battery (i.e. 90% or 95% vs 100%) ?

2> If #1 is yes, 14.6V seems high - wouldn't I be better off charging @ 14.2V ?

3> It appears that "best practice" is to never leave the battery charger on 24/7 (i.e. trickle charging), if that is the case, would it make more sense to disable the float function ? If it cannot be disabled should I set it under 12.8V so it never comes on ?

4> AGM's were set it and forget it I just connected the trickle charger and let them stay on full time - assuming that is not advisable / not possible should I not leave the charger on full time (i.e. vehicle stored / docked) and only energize it just prior to using it to make sure its fully charged prior to a trip ?

5> The battery has a built in BMS - so I assume I really do not need to do much with the charge settings other than getting the voltages right. BUT - I did notice all the Victron charge defaults are 2 hours - should I change that to go by trip current instead to assure a full charge ?

6> Is it possible to use the charger or MPPT in power supply mode and NOT charge the battery ? I assume if one keeps the voltage output of either below 13V the battery will not charge. Is this correct ?

Here is the scenario in which the vehicle is used.

Note that max current draw at any given time is less than 15A, and its not continuous. The only consumers are lighting, Dometic CFX refrigerator, Webasto 2000 ATC heater, and the occasional USB phone , webcam and LTE modem. Nominal currrent is more like 7a.

The vehicle is in covered storage for 1-2 weeks at a time , sometimes more (RV storage facility) AZ shade temps in winter are 40s - 60s, and in summer 80 - 110s

A typical trip is 4-5 days, consuming at night, solar charging during the day. Overnight on a typical day the battery level may drop 15% (AGM). One warmer / sunnier days I have never once run the battery down or had the heater cut off On colder / less sunny days it was not uncommon for the Webasto to cut off due to low voltage from the battery not charging fully during the previous day.

Now that LifePO4's are installed I doubt that will ever be an issue again. I reprogrammed the chargers that chemistry - but I would like to know what are the best practices / best settings on the victron chargers so i can assure safety, proper charge level and battery life.

Any and all suggestions / comments taking into account the info above is welcome !

Hi,

I am planning to buy the Victron Mult RS Solar and have tried to get some information from the datasheet/manual/forum/DemoApp, but there are still some unanswered questions. I hope someone can help.

My planned setup:

- connecting the solar modules to the internal MPPT solar charger.

- connection of lead-AGM batteries

- connection of the public grid to the ACin connector

- only loads at output ACout1 (no connection to the public grid there)

The loads should be supplied by the inverter when the SOC of the battery is >70%. Below this value, the Mult RS Solar should switch the output to the utility grid (ACin) until the battery has again e.g. >80% SOC. Goal: The loads should be supplied primarily from PV and battery, but the battery should not be discharged below 70%, except there is no grid power. Also, I don't want any power feeding back to the public grid (from the ACin connection).

My questions:

1. is it possible to set up the Mult RS Solar to work as described?

2. can it be ensured that there is no grid feed-in over the ACin connector?

3. how fast is the internal transfer switch, if there is one (could not find a description in the manual and datasheet, but there are such symbols on the front of the unit). Is the switching synchronized with the mains frequency/phase? Is it the same transfer switch as described in the Multiplus II?

Thanx

Is it okay to use the Blue Smart IP67 to charge the main starter battery (lead acid) and then hook the Orion-Tr Smart to the starter battery to charge x2 100ah lithium 12v in series?

Essentially use the Blue Smart IP67 to keep the lead acid 12v topped off and when it is topped off use that battery with the Blue Smart IP67 to feed the Orion-Tr Smart to charge the lithium 24v system?

Looking at this as an alternative option to my other post if there isn't a solution.

I have x2 12v 100AH batteries hooked in series for a 24v trolling motor.

I talked to Victron support and they told me that I would need two smartshunts for my system using the NOCO GEN5x3 12v 3 bank charger. Or I would need to buy a dual voltage 24v / 12v charger, cheapest I can find is the Iconic for $369.00. It is way cheaper to buy another $115 shunt. Also it is a lot easier job to just install another shunt vs changing my charging setup.

I am unsure on how to wire this up correctly and how to set it up in the app.

Below is a diagram of what I am thinking but would one of the batteries read 24v and the other 12v? I would like to configure it to where the smartshunts only monitor each battery and not the system as a whole.

To complicate this even more I also have a minn kota alternator that charges the battery while running, which is another reason I don't want to switch to a 24v charger because the shunts would be thrown off by the charge coming from it. It is a 2 bank DC-DC charger, 12v @ 10 amp each wired to the same spots as the NOCO minus the starter battery. This isn't on the diagram because it cluttered things up pretty bad.

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Also what would a single shunt monitor, if I remove the shunt to the right and leave a single shunt in the middle? Would that monitor the battery to the left? If so could I then just do a DC meter function on the AUX/midpoint wire for the battery to the right?

Thank you in advanced for help :)

I need to calibrate a few tanks and am pleased that there is now a custom tank calibration facility, but what isn’t clear to me is whether 2 of the 10 custom calibration points need to be reserved for 0% and 100% or whether all 10 can be used between empty and full? My Victron seller was unable to give me a convincing answer. My instinct is that 0 and 100 are fixed to 0 ohm and 180 ohm (on European selection) and the 10 are in between, but it would be nice to know for sure.