I am trying to set up a new system, with 18x 370w panels JA solar), 1x Multi RS Solar inverter/charger and 3 Pylontech batteries (US5000) and a Cerbo. Thought about 2x 9 panels in serie. Its going to be installed in Kerry/Ireland, and has to be ground mounted. Thank you in advance.

Hi, Can someone help understand if the real output is correct with this solar setting?

We have installed a total of 4200 W flexible solar panels on the roof of a power catamaran (curved surface)

They are connected with 4 x MPPT 100/50.

Each solar panel is about 0.56 sqm, 36V. Two connected in series (at 72V) into the MPPT.

Using 8 x 200Ah 24V Victron Lithium Smart Batteries.

Based in South Florida, peak hour of a sunny day in February (temperature about 30 C).

The total maximum PV Charger showing on the Victron monitor is around 2400W. Why ?

This happens also when the batteries are low in charge.

Hi all,

I’m increasing my solar array for my off-grid setup and am looking for the best way to connect the new SmartSolar 250/70 Tr VE.Can I purchased. My Dyness batteries are connected to the EasySolar-II via Can-Bus and the existing 250/70 inside the unit is under “external control”. I’m not sure what communication method to use to connect the new 250/70, VE.Direct, VE.Can or maybe a Bluetooth network? I noticed that there is a small red wire going to the “H” terminal of existing 250/70 inside the EasySolar-II, do I need to install a piece of cable across to the new 250/70 as well? Any help would be appreciated.

I am new to solar and I would not like to make a mistake. My plan is to charge 100 aH Lifepo4 24v battery that I use on my boat to run a trolling motor ocassionally.

Solar panel that I would like to use is Victron 215W-24V Mono (size and weigth fit). I would not mind more power but space is limited.

305W-20V Mono would also fit, but that one is 20V so I am not sure if I can use it to charge 24v battery.

I have conflicting information on which mppt controler to use. What are pros and cons of using smart solar mppt 75/10 or 100/30. Or many another one?

Any advice is apriciated.

thanks

Hi all, looking for a little guidance on the settings. I have two 6V Trojan T105's T105_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf (trojanbattery.com). On the battery settings there isn't an option for these so I believe I need to utilize expert mode and set the parameters manually. I'm still figuring this out so I'm hoping this community can provide some expertise. The terms on the battery data sheets don't perfectly match the setting options so I want to make sure I get this right. Also, are there any other settings I need to adjust beyond the charging levels? Thanks.

Bonjour,

Je viens de voir apparaître un nouveau firmware pour mon MPPT 450/200.

Smartsolar v1.10 -> v1.11

Est-ce quelqu'un sait ce que cela corrige, et où trouver le changelog ?

Merci !

Hello,

I have a heating issue that I do not understand, My positive lead to the inverter is heating above > 50deg c. (and would go higher if not switched off)

I have 1 x 300Amp battery, with a 12v1200 watt Victron inverter.

When the inverter is near load max output at 1130 watts, I'm finding that my positive lead connecting the battery to the inverter is getting hot between the battery and fuse.
I previously used 25mm pure copper multistrand welders cable, which I have replaced with 35mm cable, my understanding the cable is rated to 290Amps.
I previously used a cheap Amazon ANL 125A fuse, which I've upgraded with a Victron Energy Mega Fuse Holder and a Mega Link Fuses Current Rating: 150A

The constant test load is 106A (240v) ( 1130 watts )
The Battery is good for a consistent load of <150A
The Cable is good for < 290 Amps, and has been created with recommended pure copper lugs.

Even after the "uprating" Its still getting hot, > 45+ deg C

I have now completely removed the fuse by making a new cable straight from battery to inverter (yes I know that's not recommended) and the heat disappears!

Note:

• All connections are fully tightened.
• Lugs are good, as same batch and assembly method used on direct connection cable above.
• Maximum allowed cable (as per manual) used, is 35mm pure copper multistrand welding cable rated to <290Amps

Any idea's please?

thanks
Steve.

Hi all,

I have according to the VEcalc - 4.0 an allowed system with 5 x 395 Wp in a row and 6 Parallel. Total of 30 PV Moduls ( Trina TSM-395 DE 9.08 ) - makes 11850 Wp.

I want to oversize as much as possible, as I got the PV Moduls quite cheap and I want to increase PV farming in Wintertime in north Germany.

The VEcalc says "Accepted" .

I set the worst conditions - highest minus temp.... highest possible plus temperature.....

What could happen?

I could turn off one string/line ( 5 (row) x 2 (parallel) = 10 in total) in summertime... if needed.

My setup :

Inverters:

3 x Multiplus II 5000 50-70 ( 3 phase setup) - Grid connected , excess harvest will be feed in, and optional Backup connect with manual switch when blackout occurs.

System max output MUST stay the same. Just want to be more independent in Wintertime.

Batteries 48V :

12 x Pylontech US3000C ( 4 x 3 connected ) : 42KW

MPPT´s:

2 x MPPT 250/100 with currently 16 x Trina TSM-395 DE 9.08 = 6320 Wp

( Intention to go to 30 x PV Modul = 11850 Wp - Max V = 228.1V in worst conditions ) (10 degree EAST-WEST )

- Oversized by 104% approx. ( Max output 250/100 = 5800 W )

1 x MPPT 150/85 with currently ( 2 row x 6 par) 12 x Trina TSM-395 DE 9.08 = 4740 Wp

( Intention to go to 18 x PV Modul ( 3 row x 6 par) = 7110 Wp - Max V = 138.4V in worst conditions )

- Oversized by 45% approx. ( Max output 150/85 = 4900 W )

1 x MPPT 150/60 with currently 8 x Trina TSM-395 DE 9.08 = 3160 Wp (10 degree EAST-WEST )

( Intention to go to 12 x PV Modul ( 3 row x 4 par) = 4740 Wp - Max V = 138.4V in worst conditions ) - CHANGE to FACADE direction 90 degree ( housewall - for max Winter

harvest when sun is VERY low - North of Hamburg - Germany)

- Oversized by 38% approx. ( Max output 150/60 = 3440 W )

The VEcalc is giving me all above calc as "ACCEPTED" .

In total :

NOW = 20.54KW/p

INTENTION = 35.55 KW/p

I do know that Oversizing that much would be a waste in summer, but I do want to get max possible output in Wintertinme, where we do have between 21KW/h per KWp per month and 27KW/h per KW/p per month - Nov, Dec and Jan. I could improve harvest :

1. in the above months extremely, because in these mth. the harvest will NEVER go on max.

2. the neighburing month where we do not have full on sun ( Sep, Oct, Feb, Mar), where the harvest will go VERY RARELY on max.

3. in the mornings and in the evenings in the main harvest mths. ( where the max is regularly reached - Apr. to Aug .

Obviously I do not want to damage my MPPT`s ......

Is my thinking correct?

Do I miss anything?

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I have a travel trailer with the following:

1. Solar panels on the roof feeding a SmartSolar 100/30 wired close to the batteries.
2. A second set of solar panels on a portable rack with a second SmartSolar 100/30, this one mounted behind the panels. There is a 10 AWG, 10m cable that connects these panels to the trailer. This second set of panels can be tilted and turned to keep them gathering the most sunlight possible throughout the day.
3. A SmartShunt reading charge/load.

Everything is connected via VE.Smart network.

My issue is that the SmartSolar in #2 sometimes reads significantly higher voltage--sometimes in excess of 1v higher--when charging current is higher. That seems to cause both controllers to go into absorption mode sooner than I would expect. I do have a couple of connectors inside the trailer to upgrade that may help this a bit, but I still have a few things I'm not sure about:

1. Shouldn't the SmartSolars be using the voltage reading from the SmartShunt? VictronConnect shows that they are, but they still go into absorption mode when the voltage at #2 is close to the absorption voltage setting in both SmartSolars. If I bump up the absorption voltage in #2, both go back to bulk mode.
2. Would a Smart Battery Sense help somehow?
3. Would it make more sense to put SmartSolar #2 close to the batteries, like SmartSolar #1?

I purchased a Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/20 Charge Controller. I am having a problem with the charge controller cycling the load "On" then "Off" then back "On".

Description of failure:

1. The charge controller will show that the load is set to "On".

2. A 12v fan is connected that draws a max of 9W of power or a car cell phone charger is plugged in (without the phone connected or charging)

3. The charger controller will show that the load is turned to "Off"

4. Have a pause for 1 to 2 seconds

5. The load will then be turned to "On"

Notes: The charge controller never shows a voltage below 12.6 volts from the battery so I know that it is not pulling a large load from the battery.

I don't see how a 12v phone charger without a phone connected could be tripping the 20A capacity of the controller.

I have a SmartSolar 450/200-Tr MPPT powered on through the DC bus (no PV installed). I have a Cerbo GX powered on through the DC bus. I have an RJ45 connected to the VE.CAN bus on the MPPT, and a terminator in the empty spot, that runs to the VE.CAN bus of the Cerbo GX with a terminator in its empty slot.

I'm connected to the Cerbo GX on my laptop using WiFi. I run Venus.local and the MPPT does not show up in the device list. I run the Victron Connect app and it does not show up.

Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong? I swapped the RJ45 cable and that didn't fix the issue. I updated the firmware in the Cerbo GX (went from 2.8 to 2.92) and while that finally made the Cerbo GX show up in the Victron Connect app, it did not make the MPPT show up.

I have another 450/200 in a box I can swap out to test it, to see if it works with the VE.CAN bus. I have no VE.DIRECT cable and bluetooth connection to this MPPT isn't supported from Windows.

[image]

I have a Smart Solar 150/100-Tr VE.Can connected by VE.Can to a MG Energy Master LV (With 2 x 200Ah HE batteries) and a Color Control GX. There is also a Multiplus 24/3000/70-16 connected by VE.Bus on the same system.

I'm having an occasional 'Error 67 - BMS connection lost' from the Smart Solar but I have unfortunately been unable to pinpoint what exactly is causing the issue. It never happens when the solar is isolated but randomly when solar is generating. It does not automatically recover unless I clear the issue by isolating our solar panels and reconnecting. Is this a known issue with Smart Solar VE.Can variants? Details are below. Many thanks!

Details:

DVCC Enabled

Smart Solar 150/100-Tr VE.Can Firmware v̶1̶.̶0̶3̶ v1.04

MG Energy Master LV Firmware v1.22

Multiplus 24/3000/70-16 (230VAC) Firmware v469

Color Control GX Firmware v2.51

Hello!

At Christmas, I purchased a 200W solar array (Renogy), a SmartSolar 100/20 MPPT and a SmartShunt for our RV. I am having a real challenge configuring the Shunt...it seems like a little bit of hocus pocus to me. I am currently bench-testing before installing in the trailer come the spring.

Battery specs: 12V Lead-Acid (maintenance-free w/ vents) 105aH. History is unknown, Suspect it has seen a few 0% draw-downs. Came to me used. Small battery/small trailer - when this batt is dead, plan to upgrade.

Notes: battery can be charged from shore power or off vehicle starter battery/alternator when installed in trailer

Question 1: Some people seem to think that the 'Charged Voltage' spec on the shunt should be 0.2 or 0.3 V below the Absorption charge (for solar applications) contrary to Victron's recommendation of 0.2 to 0.3V below Float voltage. Does this not start counting the SOC down early?

Question 2:: With a .77A load on the battery in full bright sunlight, the SmartShunt is starting to countdown the SOC. Charged voltage currently config'd to 12.9. If the solar/MPPT is harvesting enough energy (it very much is), to keep the battery charged, why is the shunt counting SOC down?

Question 3: Can someone confirm if there's a calculation for figuring out how much SOC is in the battery based on voltage UNDER LOAD...it seems that resting voltage and voltage under load are two different numbers and trying to get the capacity based on resting voltage is futility in a trailer (must be such-and-such-temperature for such-and-such time, etc.). I had the battery on around a 1amp 12V load overnight and my batt showed 12.17V (under load) in the morning...but the SOC showed 85%...there's a mismatch here. Just trying to figure out what I should set my voltage alarm to.

Forgive the novel here, but my google searches haven't yielded much luck.

I would like to use an opto-isolator to turn off and on MPPT charging (this is fed by a charge enable signal from my BMS). The opto-isolator I'm using is an 817. The maximum collector current on the 817 is 50 mA.

The MPPT Manual states:

"3.5 Remote on-off

The left terminal is connected to the internal 3,3V supply, with a resistor in series for short circuit protection. The right terminal (marked as + or marked as H) will switch the controller on if >3V is applied, and will switch the controller off if <2V is applied or if the terminal is left free floating. The recommended use of the remote on-off is:

a. A switch wired between the left and right terminal

b. A switch wired between battery plus and the right terminal.

c) A switch between the right terminal and the charge disconnect terminal of a VE.Bus BMS"

I would like to know what the approximate value of the resistor is to ensure that when my opto-isolater is on, the collector current doesn't exceed 50mA. Can anyone comment on this value?

So its not a system I installed, but one we had installed.

Our setup includes:
4x 210Watt solar panels
multiplus 12/3000smartsolar Mppt 100/50Cerbo GX
500A Smartshunt
Smartdongle
MK3-USB
GX50
4x 100Ah LiFePo4 batteries

So as I understand how it was installed, the Lithium batteries are supposed to be charged by the solar panels, and then they in turn charge the battery that came with my trailer (which is a lead acid). I had to do the programing to get it finalized, I followed the battery manufacturers specifications.

Our system worked for a while back in April, then it stopped out of the blue. Since then, I have pulled down all my panels to test diodes, all came back good. Followed the wires and checked all inline fuses, good. Checked all breakers, good, all wiring and connections labeled correctly and checked. Reset all components to factory settings, let sit for a bit and reprogrammed for my set up. Ran my batteries down to low 12v (12.2v), and nothing still. My displays and info all just say 0-1watts, 0amps and around 22-23volts coming in from my solar and stays in bulk. I am at my wits end right now.

I have gone through so many forum posts and have tried everything on here, as well as various other forums and videos. Below are some screenshots I've taken this morning. Please if you need any more information to hopefully get this resolved please let me know and I'll get what ever I can back here for the community to look at. We are currently on shore power as well to charge the batteries back up, so if anything needs to be done off shore power let me know as well. Thank you all!

*edit* forgot to include my settings

**edit 2: I noticed recently that my ssc battery voltage and my multiplus battery levels are reading differently, 13.5v and 14.3v respectively. Is this an issue as well? If so how do I fix this!

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