I would like to monitor my inverter; it's around 13 year old Phoenix Compact multiplus 12v 1200va 50AMP. Ideally via a pi; but PC if necessary. What hardware/cable do I need (a little late Christmas present for the boat)?
Are wire ferrules such as this one pictured at https://www.asi-ez.com/pix/prod/Red-Ferrule-50-PERPack_org.jpg acceptable for use when wiring the larger input and output connections on Victron products featuring screw terminals such as the SmartSolar MPPT Charge Controllers?
Although the manuals for these products specifiy the type of copper conductors/stranding to be used with these connections, they do not mention the commonly used wire ferrules which often find use with finely stranded wires.
The Victron "Wiring Unlimited" book mentions ferrules a single time when it describes their utility in creating a "tidy wiring job", but does not shed light on whether they are recommended or prohibited for use with the abovementioned MPPT Charge controller screw terminals.
Hi I'm trying to update an Airstream Basecamp with the BMV-712. The existing system has a victron display connected via ve.direct cable from the non-Bluetooth SmartSolar 150/35 MPPT. The BMV-712 display has a ve.direct plug, but the shunt only has an rj12. I don't want to have to rewire the system to use the same space as the existing display. Can I just splice the end of the ve.direct cable to a rj12 plug or does it use more than 4 pins? Is there an adaptor? Should I just give up and return the BMV-712 and go with a smartshunt and a dead display?
I have a MPPT 75/15 and the specs say the terminal fits a 6mm² cable. I tried that cable size and it does not fit. Without a wire end ferrule it may go in but just and it is a hassle, some strands being bend and staying out (not good), with a crimped ferrule of the correct size (it tried two types) there is no way this fits.
I have some pre-crimped cable from the solar panel (this is a kit) and the ferrule there look like a size too small and it is a 10 gauge wire which is slightly smaller than 6mm² as well. And even that barely fits.
So what am I doing wrong? Do I need to switch to 4mm² cable? It is only the 1.2m length from MPPT to battery, but 6mm² cable is what I have....
Hi, could someone be kind enough to confirm the battery to inverter cable size on a 12v 3000w Phoenix inverter? The manual states it it should be 90mm2, this seems awfully large considering the carrying capacity of this cable is 500a, the inverter will never be used continuously at full power and the cable run is around two meters, I currently hold plenty of 70mm2 cable and thought this would be sufficient given a carrying capacity of 485a. I look forward to hearing some feedback.
Thanks in advance.
I have 3 panels from previous my house @ 385w and purchased 7 x 380w which was the nearest I could get. they are similar volts and amps and wiring 2 x5 strings in series. All 10 are in the same direction all south facing next to one another, shade free 15deg. 10m from nearest panel to easy solar gx 2, 48v 3kwa, 35, 250/70.
Wiring 6mm using y combiners and each string has 1 inline fuse @ 15a and a 1000v reverse current prevention diode then combined lines to a surge protector, then 32a 1000v disc
I have 3 panels from previous my house @ 385w and purchased 7 x 380w which was the nearest I could get. they are similar volts and amps and wiring 2 x5 strings in series. All 10 are in the same direction all south facing next to one another, shade free 15deg. 10m from nearest panel to easy solar gx2, 48v 3kwa, 35, 250/70.
Wiring 6mm using y combiners and each string has 1 inline fuse @ 15a and a 1000v reverse current prevention diode then combined lines to a surge protector, then 32a 1000v disconnector to inverter to 125a on live to pylontech 3000 and a 5000 correct wires for the batteries. Then to AC consumer box.
Q Grounding: should I wire earth to house DC earthing or separate to a earthing an rod?
Q Is there an issue with the 5w difference of the 3 panels, obviously I lose 15w but if anyone thinks it should be parallel?
Q Batteries: I was told to fuse the common and live with a 125a fuse on both but others say to wire just live. Is there a logic to wiring both poles?
Q Should I wire as series 5 x 2?
Any other advice greatly appreciated.
I'm getting a bit confused by the wiring diagram in the Orion smart manual. In this figure (most are very hard to see in the manual it show the ignition switch wired to the engine ignition power and them going to the H pin. but it also shows a bridge to the L pin. If im not mistaking adding this bridge will keep the unit always on..
I would like to have the unit charge from my house bank to my starter and bow thruster bank. I would like this charging to happen only when the engine is on.
My Victron 100/50 controller is mounted at the rear of my RV in an enclosed metal compartment. Hence the BT Signal won't make it much further than right above the compartment in the back of the RV. I want to get the signal at the front of the RV. Currently the only way that appears to be possible is to add a BT Dongle. But I need a longer cable than what they come with standard. (5feet, 1.5m) I need about a 5 meter or longer cable. My question is, does anyone make a VE.Direct extension cable? I am thinking it needs to have a female connector on the other side to allow the BT Dongle to plug in to it. I have seen male to male VE.Direct cables, and my assumption is they may be cross over cabling to swap the send and receive channels. If no one makes an extension, does anyone know what that connector is called so I can try to solder one up? Thanks, Bill
I have purchased a flow meter which can be connected to the Venus GX. Unfortunately this flow meter is around 50m away from the Venus GX. I am aware that the wiring will need to be of a greater diameter due to voltage drop.
Does anyone have an idea what the diameter of the cable should be? From a number of calculators it seems that 1.5m2 cabling is sufficient.
I’m building a 24v overlanding system with 3x 24v 200AH ‘smart’ batteries. These batteries have internal BMS and VE.can output so no shunt or external BMS is required, they plug straight into Cerbo.
I know this is getting to the extremes for a 24v system, but the battery configuration and available space (plus my PV panels) preclude going to 48v unless I drop capacity by 1/3. The batteries have a constant power rating of 150A and a peak rating of 300a each. Expected current draw is about 300 amps (2xMultis @~100a each, plus ~80a DC-DC) but max current for each Multi is ~250 and DC-DC is ~100a, taking me outside 4/0 cable rating. My plan is to limit this using Mega fuses to each Load and to each Battery.
I’m planning on using a Lynx Distributor for connecting the batteries in parallel and then another Lynx Distributor to connect my loads (2x Multiplus 24/3000/70 in split phase, 150/85 MPPT & DC-DC 24/12) and allow me to fuse everything individually.
Wth no Lynx Shunt or Lynx BMS required, can I connect the two Lynx Distributors together and, if so, would this not be counter to the Victron (and other) wiring suggestions where you should draw the positive from the nearest battery and the negative from the furthest battery in a parallel configuration?
Should I use 4/0 cables to take the negative from the right hand (ie ‘furthest’) side of the ‘Battery’ Distributor negative bus bar to the right side busbar of the ‘Load‘ Distributor, andbthen using an equal length cable connect the left hand (‘near’) positive busbar of the Battery Distributor to the right side positive busbar of the Load Distributor, instead of connecting the 2 Distributors together?
I'm adding a SmartShunt to a two-battery setup on an RV, and already have an A/B/both/off switch on the two batteries. What is the recommended way to wire the shunt? With the shunt be confused by the A/B switch?
I don't know if any of the engineers actually read this forum, but I'm hoping to find out the maximum allowable cable length for the VE. Can interface cables. I intend to build my own cables using high-quality shielded cable (probably Cat7) so the attenuation and interference should not be a problem. I only wonder what the maximum latency is...
I can find information on the maximum cable length on the VE. Bus. People on the forums are saying that they're having trouble with longer cables, but the literature seems to indicate that you should be fine as long as the total cable length doesn't exceed 100 meters. Therefore, I believe that these people would do better with larger shielded cables since the literature seems to indicate that they shouldn't have latency problems, but I have found no such literature for the VE. Can.
I'm trying to mount the GX 70 upstairs quite a ways from the battery room. I figured I'd just locate the Cerbo GX up next to the GX 70 location.
If anyone can help, or if anyone can tell me who to contact, I'd really appreciate it!
I'm planning my installation of a Multiplus-II 5000/70/50 in my home in the UK along with ESS and later solar. I will be splitting my existing consumer unit into essential and non-essential loads to enable UPS mode in the event of a grid outage.
My question is whether the circuit protection device fitted inside the non-essential loads consumer unit which feeds the Multiplus-II AC-In input needs to have RCD protection or if an MCB can be used. Of course I will have a full set of RCBOs on the various other circuits on both essential and non-essential consumer units but I'm concerned about discrimination if I was to also use an RCBO to feed the Multiplus-II input. I could probably get a time-delayed RCBO but I wonder if this is really needed.
The Multiplus-II installation manual simply states that
The AC input must be protected by a fuse or magnetic circuit breaker rated at 32 A (for 3 kVA model), 50 A (for 5 kVA model) and 100 A (for 8 kVA and 10 kVA model) or less, and cable cross-section must be sized accordingly.
so my guess is that this might not be so much an inverter product question but more of a UK wiring regs question.
I have the regs and on-site guide so can read up on that but just wondering what others have done? The cable feeding Ac-In will be 10mm2 (singles ideally but T&E possibly) and will be running a short distance through 75x75mm trunking to the AC isolator and then again in the same trunking to the Multiplus-II so risk of damage to the cable is minimal. I could use SWA but that would be cumbersome and probably overkill.
Any thoughts? My feeling is that using a 50A MCB is the pragmatic choice but I'll need to check the regs to see if the short run of non RCD protected cables in trunking is a problem.
Update: Checked the OSG in section 7.2.5 and as far as understand it, as long as the cables are not “installed in walls or partitions”, which surface mounted trunking isn’t, there is no requirement for RCD protection. The prospective fault current in a fault condition inside the Multiplus would easily cause disconnection of the 50A MCB inside the allowed time so I think an MCB is appropriate. Anyone aware of any other regs which contradict this or am I misunderstanding anything?
My plan is to have a solar system with pylon Li batteries supplying 6 lower powered circuits in the house - lights and some socket ring circuits - with the grid charging batteries when needed. The grid will also permanently supply my higher-powered circuits such as the shower and electric cooker (the solar system will not be involved here).
I have 3x 3.5kW pylon batteries, Multiplus II 5kw, 9 x 455W panels in 3 paralleled strings of 3 panels, 250/100 smart soar MPPT , lynx distributer and cerbo gx.
I have attached my wiring diagWiring plus poss consumer unit layout 2.pdfram for the solar system (p1) and for the consumer unit (p2). I need to get an electrician to check and wire this but just have a few questions for you guys if you can help…
1.Is the grounding/earthing safe and correct?
2.With this set up is there any way in which I might be putting power back into the grid or is it just one way? If I am not putting anything into the grid do I still need to fill out the G98/99 applications?
3.How long could my cable runs be consumer unit to the inverter charger? I am still unsure as to whether to have the solar gear in the garage or a different room in the house or even in the loft…
Apologies if some of these questions are very basic!
I'm currently planning out my wiring for a van conversion and looking at getting a Multiplus 12/3000. As a newbie to wiring and someone who's British tendencies tend to make me quite modest, I'm damn proud at how confident I feel about electrics after the amount of research I've done. (Main thanks to the author of Wiring Unlimited.)
That being said, I can't for the life of me figure out how this transfer switch relates to van conversions. Most of the info I've read online seems to relate to fitting into buildings rather than vans. But even then I'm struggling to understand it as there seems to be a variety of uses.
What's more, after zooming in on other peoples videos and guides I can see there's roughly a 50/50 split between those who use the 50a and those who use the 16a. But frustratingly, they mention all the reasons and specs as to why they purchased the unit, other than talk about the transfer switch rating.
Is anyone able to explain in simple terms what a transfer switch is and what it will do for me in relation to a van conversion? Main things I'm worried about are blowing shore feeds when hooked up at campsites, or over/underpowering my systems.
That being said, my main source of power will be the 525w solar array I plan on installing as well as the Orion DC-DC charger feeding into 2x200ah Victron Lithium Smart Batteries.
Also while I'm here, in Wiring Unlimited it mentions creating a bypass switch for the inverter. (Section 6.6)
I can understand the reasons behind this. But firstly, it looks like a lot of people doing van conversions don't seem to bother with it. Secondly, how do you actually go about wiring this to connect to a comsumer unit?