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schematics

Schematics software

Hi I am answering my own question really , i asked about software for doing schematics, i have downloaded Smartdraw and must admit it looks nearly as good as the Victron ones albeit i have had to download images of the components from the web and they are not always that good but with a bit of messing about not too bad at all.

macca61 asked
Jason - UK answered ·

2 Answers

Who has the largest VRM layout and / or largest Victron System? Time to show off.

I thought it would be useful to people who are still learning about Victron products if others could post info about their installation, the connected equipment, schematical layout and most importantly the level of information that provides in VRM. Feel free to throw in a few photos and screen shots of your VRM as well for good measure.

Jason - UK asked
Jason - UK edited ·

0 Answers

Orion 12/24-10A wiring questions

2 questions;

I have a boat with a house bank of batteries, and I wish to feed 12v from there to my new 24v bank of batteries in the bow for a newly installed bow thruster.

I already have a set of heavy cables (4/0) running about 25ft from the house bank up to my 12v windlass (very tip of the bow). I want to install this dc-dc charger in the bow next to my thruster batteries and thruster on a nice new wood panel with all the electrical stuff mounted on it. Ideally I would like to cut into those 4/0 cables, about 75% of the way to the bow, add some battery "posts" and then carry those on to the windlass. This way I could connect my 12v side of my orion charger to those posts, and feed my 24v bank. Otherwise I will need to run two more sets of #6 wire (+ and -) or larger another 25ft from the alternator or house bank.

1) Does the dc-dc charger HAVE to be connected to my alternator to sense it, or can I simply connect it to my 12v bank via the existing 4/0 cables (I am thinking it would sense the voltage rise when the alternator starts charging my house bank and turn on?)

2) It states that I need to run #6- but when this is only 10A @ 24v. max fuse is like 25A, so I am thinking I can just run #10 on both the 12 and 24v side of this converter and that should be adequate- assuming I don't have that long run to my house bank- just 2-3ft from the converter to the battery posts. Thoughts?

Thanks, Ty.

jointcustody asked
kevgermany answered ·

1 Answer

Battery Protect connected to a inverter (using LYNX Dist.) schematic

Hi,

I want to make a 12v battery system, charged from PV via MPPT (two Panels in series 400W each).

The idea is to use is in case of a blackout for home appliances like fridge, TV ....

The system is based on folowing components:

- Victron LYNX Dist.

- Enclosed DC 16A Switch - DC Disconnect (PV Disconnect from MPPT)

- Victron smart shunt

- Victron MPPT 150/70 charge conntroller

- Victron 100A smart BP.

- Victron ON/OFF Master Battery Switch (275A)

- DIY lifepo4 batteries with BMS (JBD or JK BMS)

- 2000W DC-AC(230V) Inverter with remote switch (non Victron)

Can I use the BP in that constellation ? Or should I avoid using the component ?

Generally, the BMS has the role of keeping the battery status under the eye (all 4 cells individually with balance option) so in case of any under voltage of any cell it will cut off the "-" wire which then leads to a system shutdown (load disconnect).

My question are:

- what happens with the MPPT controller if the battery gets disconnected and the Solar PV are still providing power to the component ?

- how to connect the BP in such a system - schematic would be great !?

- should I connect the Inverter directly to the battery via LYNX Dist (with fuse of course)?


I have read some posts on the internet which say that the BP should not be connected directly to the inverter (inline) because of an inrush current. Can someone please explain how should this be done properly !

If this is the case the BP is just useless in my case or am I missing here something ?

regards

Andrzej






ary asked
JohnC commented ·

1 Answer

BMV712 Smart Battery Monitor question

Hello,

I have a BMV712 Smart battery monitor and I am trying to connect it to a dual battery setup on my boat. I have the temp sensor version. I am having difficulty interpreting where I should hook the sensor up. Should I have two because I have two batteries? Or prioritize a single battery (which one?) I've attached my schematic for your review. I appreciate any assistance you may be able to provide.

[image]

zulu-55 asked
zulu-55 commented ·

4 Answers

Please critique my proposed setup. Large schematic ahead... Cerbo GX, Touch 70, Smart Battery Protect 220, Lynx BMS, Lynx Distributor x 2, Quattro, Orion-Tr x 4, Smart100/50 x 5, Lithium 330ah x 3,

I used this schematic for inspiration: https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/MultiPlus-3KW-120VAC-12VDC-600Ah-Li-Lynx-Smart-BMS-&-distributors-Cerbo-GX-touch-generator-MPPT-Orion-Tr-Smarts.pdf

Here is the PDF 2008 Leopard 40 SV COSMOS Electrical & Solar Upgrade 2021 (1).pdf

Boat is a 12m sailing catamaran with two engines. One alternator per engine. Ripping out current system of LG NeonR 360wp x 4 PV, 900ah Firefly Oasis AGM, Xantrex RV2012GS Inverter/Charger.

I have intentionally wired the alternators on circuits without a On/Off switch. Alternators wired directly to the starter batteries. Starter motors are wired through On/Off switches.

Lynx BMS shows ATC wire going to ignition. How do I handle for two engine setup? Is this needed? Do I wire to one or both?

Can I double stack MRBF on a single battery post?

Please critique the setup and tell me your thoughts. Is there a better way, simpler way, cheaper way, easier to install way?

I currently have a BMV-712 installed with temp sensor. It appears this function gets replaced by the Lynx BMS. I also have a spare BMV-712 new in the box. I was thinking about hooking them up to each engine start battery. My DC panel has a rotary switch and old analog voltage gauge for the start batteries. I plan to leave this installed as well. So the BMV-712's would be redundant. This is my first electrical drawing. Used Canva.com which we use for website stuff already.

[image]


Chris asked
Charles Gomes answered ·

3 Answers

Victron Wiring Example - MultiPlus II with Lithium, Cerbo GX and new Lynx Smart BMS

Victron Energy produces loads of great schematic drawings to help you plan your wiring. This is the first in a series of schematic drawings and it features the new Lynx Smart BMS together with the MultiPlus II with two 120v circuits. You can see there is solar and alternator charging as this is would be a complex install for an RV in the US for example.

[image]

Here is a link to the full-sized pdf.


Jono (Victron Energy Staff) asked
Ingo Pfeiffer commented ·

2 Answers

Campervan Schematics

[image]

Hi All,

I have finished my first revision of the campervan schematics, I am sure I would have forgotten a few items (such as the Dometic fridge, a shower solution etc), but this is the general installation. I wanted some people to check it over and to see if everything looks legit in terms of wiring etc. I suspect the solar wattage should be enough considering I have the DC-DC charger? Also in terms of AC power, can someone advise on a suitable distribution box that will work seamlessly with the Multiplus and the correct wire sizes for this also please?

Let me know if anything looks wrong. I plan to fit what I can and get it approved by an electrician.

campervandan asked
albertramsbottom answered ·

6 Answers

Can you help me finalize my summer home system layout?

Newbie here. Setup for summer home in Sardinia/Italy. The house is in use 4m/y Jun-Sep. No, there is no airconditioning, it's designed to stay fresh under the sun.

After asking a dozen installers and getting the same standard answer I decided to do it myself.

Here's the setup:

  • Installation is at 39°06'34.2"N 8°18'28.5"E with panels at 22º incline to South 178º; space for 13x 175W PV panels = 2275W; blue sky 99% of the summer, no shadows across the day.
  • Running 24/7: 3 fridges 350W/h; solar water heater circ pump 20W/h; water pump 25W/h; WiFi, netowork 150 W/h ≈ 600 W/h
  • During the day: w. machine 800Wh; 1 dish w. 800Wh; vacuum 1500Wh; Iron 2000Wh ≈ 5KWh
  • At Night: quiet night 8kWh; party night (¼) 25kWh (mostly due to oven, induction, teppaniaki, frier, steamer, which are all electric - gaggenau 200 series)
  • Consider the entire kitchen at work with other loads will be >7kW and if all appliances cycle together it would be close to 10kW but that's unlikely. The grid counter is a 6KVA (I believe that's an 8kVA peak) and it does jump when everyone is active in the kitchen and the oven is in use.

The grid works ok as long as it does not rain. The objective of this PV system is to make this house completely selfsufficient. Eventually we will add more PV panels or a wind turbine to provide more services like desalination of water for irrigation.

The current goal is to never use the grid, if occasionally during major peaks of usage: IF batteries <20% & PV not producing & load >nn kW THEN use grid

During the winter, when the house is closed, only standby consumption for the network is present and all the production can be sent out to the grid and keeping the batteries charged.

So, after reading several spec sheets and watching some great videos, I came up with this. I would be immensely grateful if you have a moment to validate this as it probably not far from feasible, but surely off by a lot. Thank you!!


[image]



psommariva asked
psommariva answered ·

4 Answers

Need help with wire calculation regarding 120mm2


Hi all,

Im designing the electrical of my campervan, and im having trouble with the wire going from the busbar (positive and negative) to the battery. According to calculations the cable should be 120mm2. But that seems so bulky for me.. Could anyone help out? Thanks.

[image]


14129 asked
14129 commented ·

3 Answers

Questions about 12V load and inverter remote control over MPPT and some general schematics help

Hi guys,

I'm working on the electric schematics for a pickup truck as a expedition vehicle.

I would like to ask you guys if my thinking is correct or if you have some inputs to make it better.

Are there any concerns regarding safety ?

One of my main questions is: How does the load output of the mppt really work? I read all the manuals and couldn't find a proper answer.. Can I control both, the smart battery protect for my 12V loads and the 800W phoenix inverter together? I've drawn a connection from the Load + (MPPT) to the H-Remote connection of the Battery protect and to the right connector of the remote connection plug of the Inverter. Both are as well controllable with a switch.


The other question.. I would like to run the AC output of the Inverter as an isolated IT-Network... is it in this case necessary to connect the PE to the ground (as drawn in my schematics?)


Thank you for your help.

BR, Mario

[image]




marioeder asked

0 Answers

Camper electric; combining Multiplus Mppt and Orion smart DC-DC

Campervan electrics

I am currently rebuilding a Fiat Ducato van into a campervan. For the electrical system we want to use a 230v fridge, a roof fan, Led lights and some smaller accesoires such as usb chargers etc.

A rough estimate of powerusage:


Watt

Hours p/d

Wh

Ah @12v

Fridge 230v

20

24

480

40,0

Usb

14

1,4

19,6

1,6

Lights

20

3

60

5,0

Fan

35

6

210

17,5

Laptop/bikechargers etc.

90

1

90

7,5

Waterpump

100

0,5

50

4,2



Total

909,6 Wh

75 Ah

Adding losses, I estimate a bit less than 100Ah/day.

Charging

  • Multiplus 800VA
  • Orion DC/DC smart 18A or 30A
  • Mppt 75/15 with +- 200Wp solar

Storage

The intended use of the camper van is to travel around, stay a day or to and then move again. so alternator charging and solar should be most of the charging required. Going with a multiplus is a nice to have, as adding a charger later would require a lot of components if I buy a separate inverter.

I am still looking into what I can afford,100Ah lithium sounds great, but 220Ah AGM is also reasonable for our uses. Due to a smart alternator a DC/DC charger seems needed anyways, so all should be easily set up for both chemistries. We’d prefer using a 12v system, as this is commonly used.


Do you have any remarks on this schematic?

(Apart from the not displayed safety on the 230v AC, and the non-calculated wire gauge.)

[image]

My question;

Can I combine the Multiplus, orion smart and mppt without a shunt or GX device or is this not advisable? As far as I can tell this is mostly for monitoring?

The multi and orion won't interfere with the ignition switch used, so it is mainly the communication between the MPPT and other chargers that could be problematic?

Thanks in advance!

Bram

bram1 asked
Kevin Windrem answered ·

3 Answers

Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30A with Schaudt EBL 119

Kan iemand mij aan een schema helpen hoe een Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30A met Schaudt EBL 119 aan te sluiten?


stapper11 asked

0 Answers

Is this the correct use of the BMS CL 12/100 in a van system?

Hi everyone,

I can't find a lot of detailed information on the Smart BMS CL 12/100 and was hoping for some insight on how I've applied it to my system. The main reason I wanted to use it was it provides more amperage than the Orion.

(I have yet to add wire size, fuses and breakers to my diagram)

Any help, insight or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

(Van is a MB Sprinter, 2 x 200ah Lithium Victron Batteries, BMS is connect directly to start battery)

Thanks!


MB Diagram.jpg



scottca asked

0 Answers

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