I've attached the wiring diagram I'm planning to implement.
I would greatly appreciate anyone taking a look and letting me know if I've miswired something, overlooked a safety concern, have redundancies or did something that will initiate a fusion reaction. :)
Control lines for the Cerbo GX and between the smart battery protect (SBP) and the inverter are not shown.
Thanks so much!
Hi everyone - was hoping some kind folks could do me a massive favour and look over my campervan schematic. I've been a bit confused about wire gauges and fuses in particular, but between consulting other schematics and the Victron manuals have come up with this. In general all cable runs are short as everything is super compact in the one under-bed cabinet, excluding the starter battery to B2B charger run which is approx 2.5m. So perhaps the cable gauges are over the the top here, but it's a starting point. (This is my first time doing anything like this so please bear that in mind!)
One question I do have here is do I need to run both positive and negative cables from starter battery to B2B or can I just run the negative from the chassis into the B2B? This would help my cable run be easier/neater from the cabin to the load bay.
Thank you so much (and a happy new year!)
I've assembled a few systems but this is the first system I've specced. It's designed for a small van (Renault Trafic) with a fairly small demand - USB chargers, fridge, heater.
Orion-tr 30A, SmartSolar 75/15, BlueSmart 12/17, BatteryProtect 12/24-65A, BMV-700, 100Ah AGM battery.
I'm not sure whether I need a BMS or not.
Victron Energy produces loads of great schematic drawings to help you plan your wiring. This is the first in a series of schematic drawings and it features the new Lynx Smart BMS together with the MultiPlus II with two 120v circuits. You can see there is solar and alternator charging as this is would be a complex install for an RV in the US for example.
Here is a link to the full-sized pdf.
I would like to search the schematics downloads for all schematics for sailboats. I only see how to search by product used.
Are there other search methods I don't see?
I think I have the drawing kind of sorted, but it would be great if others could give it a sanity check before I build it.
A quick explanation of why I am doing it like this:
1. 24V Inverter and IP22 chargers used instead of DC-DC 24|12 charger because the DC-DC does not talk to the other chargers and could overcharge the batteries if left unattended.
2. Parallel IP22 chargers used (only at 15A each) to reduce the heat generated in the charger, 30A total to the batteries but from two chargers.
3. VE.Direct BT Dongles used on inverters to have visibility with all other BT devices on my iPhone.
4. Front, Centre, Rear and Top Cupboard are locations within the RV where 12V power is required.
5. Battery Protect inline for all consuming devices.
6. Wondering how much power will be consumed by the 24V inverter when the ignition switch of OFF.
7. 50A Circuit breakers used on each long power run to protect wiring.
Happy to hear any suggestions or ways to make it better.
Hi I am answering my own question really , i asked about software for doing schematics, i have downloaded Smartdraw and must admit it looks nearly as good as the Victron ones albeit i have had to download images of the components from the web and they are not always that good but with a bit of messing about not too bad at all.
I see so many nicely drawn system schematic diagrams - is there a Victron product image library available?
Hi have never installed any solar work or any kind of wiring for that matter, so I am wondering if my wiring schematic with a shunt is correct. Or, is therer anything else that I should include in the layout.
None of the Victron schematics show a ground, so I was not sure if I need to ground the system. I am more concerned with small charges that might harm sensitive equipment than I am with electrocution.
It is a 24V system with some devices running at 5V after a step down buck. None of the individual connected devices will be pulling more than +/- 0.2 amp. Do I need to ground any specific devices, or install any fuses? Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Hello, in my boat I will renew the complete electrical system.
I have the following devices that should be installed:
Argo fet 200-2
230V Charger IP65 25A 1xout
1 x 100A main battery
1 x 100A boot battery
I am looking for a schema for the following properties:
- Both batteries should be charged simultaneously via the engine generator
- Both batteries should be charged simultaneously via the 230V charger
- The two batteries should be used individually as starter and main battery, in case of emergency the main battery should also be able to be used for starting.
I have a complete schema as a basis, but I can't see how the starter battery can be charged via the charger.
I don't need a 230V converter or a solar system!
If you could please provide a simple schema, would I be glad?
Je viens d’acquérir un battery protect et je ne peux pas utiliser directement l’option remote car mon convertisseur ne possède pas d'entrée correspondante.
Le but recherché et d'utiliser un frigo tri mixte en 220v et de couper une fois que la tension descend pour qu'il bascule en gaz ( frigo aes )
Le branchement en direct battery protect convertisseur ne fonctionne pas ( condensateurs )
Il me reste l'option du relai . Par contre quelques doutes subsistent sur les divers branchement.
Merci pour vos commentaires qui me feront avancer.
I thought it would be useful to people who are still learning about Victron products if others could post info about their installation, the connected equipment, schematical layout and most importantly the level of information that provides in VRM. Feel free to throw in a few photos and screen shots of your VRM as well for good measure.
I have a boat with a house bank of batteries, and I wish to feed 12v from there to my new 24v bank of batteries in the bow for a newly installed bow thruster.
I already have a set of heavy cables (4/0) running about 25ft from the house bank up to my 12v windlass (very tip of the bow). I want to install this dc-dc charger in the bow next to my thruster batteries and thruster on a nice new wood panel with all the electrical stuff mounted on it. Ideally I would like to cut into those 4/0 cables, about 75% of the way to the bow, add some battery "posts" and then carry those on to the windlass. This way I could connect my 12v side of my orion charger to those posts, and feed my 24v bank. Otherwise I will need to run two more sets of #6 wire (+ and -) or larger another 25ft from the alternator or house bank.
1) Does the dc-dc charger HAVE to be connected to my alternator to sense it, or can I simply connect it to my 12v bank via the existing 4/0 cables (I am thinking it would sense the voltage rise when the alternator starts charging my house bank and turn on?)
2) It states that I need to run #6- but when this is only 10A @ 24v. max fuse is like 25A, so I am thinking I can just run #10 on both the 12 and 24v side of this converter and that should be adequate- assuming I don't have that long run to my house bank- just 2-3ft from the converter to the battery posts. Thoughts?
I want to make a 12v battery system, charged from PV via MPPT (two Panels in series 400W each).
The idea is to use is in case of a blackout for home appliances like fridge, TV ....
The system is based on folowing components:
- Victron LYNX Dist.
- Enclosed DC 16A Switch - DC Disconnect (PV Disconnect from MPPT)
- Victron smart shunt
- Victron MPPT 150/70 charge conntroller
- Victron 100A smart BP.
- Victron ON/OFF Master Battery Switch (275A)
- DIY lifepo4 batteries with BMS (JBD or JK BMS)
- 2000W DC-AC(230V) Inverter with remote switch (non Victron)
Can I use the BP in that constellation ? Or should I avoid using the component ?
Generally, the BMS has the role of keeping the battery status under the eye (all 4 cells individually with balance option) so in case of any under voltage of any cell it will cut off the "-" wire which then leads to a system shutdown (load disconnect).
My question are:
- what happens with the MPPT controller if the battery gets disconnected and the Solar PV are still providing power to the component ?
- how to connect the BP in such a system - schematic would be great !?
- should I connect the Inverter directly to the battery via LYNX Dist (with fuse of course)?
I have read some posts on the internet which say that the BP should not be connected directly to the inverter (inline) because of an inrush current. Can someone please explain how should this be done properly !
If this is the case the BP is just useless in my case or am I missing here something ?
I have a BMV712 Smart battery monitor and I am trying to connect it to a dual battery setup on my boat. I have the temp sensor version. I am having difficulty interpreting where I should hook the sensor up. Should I have two because I have two batteries? Or prioritize a single battery (which one?) I've attached my schematic for your review. I appreciate any assistance you may be able to provide.