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Multiplus above LiFePo4

Working with limited space in my camper, and have my system designed with the MP 12/3000 directly above my two 300ah lifepo4 batteries. I know the manual states not to mount directly above batteries, but if I'm correct, that is due to off-gassing with other battery chemistries. Since lifepo4 batteries are fully sealed and do not off-gas, I'm thinking that mounting the inverter above them is totally fine, obviously with precaution to cover battery terminals so nothing is ever accidentally shorted.


How does this sound? Okay to mount above the lifepo4 batteries, or find a different place (which would be extremely difficult at this point)? Anyone from Victron have a say on this?


Thanks all

igvan asked
matt1309 answered ·

3 Answers

Simple van system

I found a great and simple setup diagram from your forum: https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/108022/simple-van-setup-help.html?childToView=140639

However, my question is - would it work with regular "dumb" alternator (no Euro5 or Euro6) ?

I have fried one alternator in the past during similar setup on a boat (but with CTEK MPPT + battery isolator), when my house battery bank was too big for the 60A 12V generator to charge (it kept pulling too much from alternator at once).

So, Do I understand correctly that the Orion controller limits the pull of current from the alternator to 30A even if I don't have "smart" Euro5 or Euro6 alternator?

vabrik asked
kevgermany answered ·

1 Answer

Parallel use of Blue Smart IP22 and Smart Solar MPPT with one battery possible?

I found misleading information in the internet and just want to be sure if and how I can use both Blue Smart IP22 and Smart Solar MPPT in parallel in my camper. The Blue Smart IP22 charger is used on the campsite with 230V input and the Smart Solar MPPT 100/15 together with the solar panel on the roof. Both will be connected to the same battery (utility battery). The systems istself is not connected to the cars‘s starter battery but only the utility battery.

So, do both devices communicate with each other via bluetooth or how will the one know from the other how is the battery status? And is there any possibility to give priority to either the solar or the grid charger? Is there any risk that the two chargers will badly interact with themselves due to both are ‚intelligent‘ chargers? Thanks for your support.

tk21 asked
Alexandra commented ·

1 Answer

Slow charging/high voltage drop with SmartBMS CL 12/100 in camper

I'm trying to debug a slow charging problem. I have a SmartBMS CL 12/100 set for 90A, but I rarely see over 50A, even though my battery, alternator, and wiring should be more than capable of faster charging. If my Lithium battery is under 5% charged, then I *might* see a brief spike to 80A for a minute or two when I start my engine, after that it drops back to 50A within a few minutes. By the time the battery is half full, I'm lucky to see 30A. It takes 5 or 6 hours to fully charge the 200Ah LFP battery off of the alternator.

I'm seeing 13.8V on the input side of the SmartBMS with the engine idling, but voltage on the output side is down to 13.4V, as seen by the SmartBMS itself, multiple SmartShunts, and a multimeter across the SmartBMS. Voltage is more or less constant (13.4V relative to ground) through the whole DC system downstream of the SmartBMS.


I have a SmartBMS CL 12/100 connected like this:

Alternator (280A, +100A over stock, not smart) -> vehicle battery -> 100A fuse -> 15' AWG 2 -> Disconnect Switch -> SmartBMS

The output of the BMS is SmartBMS -> 500A SmartShunt -> Disconnect Switch -> 125A fuse -> bus bar -> 125A fuse -> 500A SmartShunt -> 200Ah Victron LFP battery.

All of the relevant wiring here is AWG 2 (35 mm^2). There are additional devices connected to the bus bar, but they only total ~2A at the moment.


All connectors appear to be tight. I generally only have 1 or 2 wires connected to each terminal, stacked in the correct order, with washers on top, using marine-grade fittings and heat shrink. Nothing appears to be overheating in any way. It's just charging slowly. Nothing has changed in ~9 months.

As a controlled test, I tried bypassing the SmartBMS briefly. Without the BMS, I saw roughly twice the charging rate, although the battery was nearly full at the time. The voltage at the battery jumped up to roughly match the BMS input-side voltage.

I *think* I'm not getting enough voltage to the battery through the SmartBMS to charge at a reasonable rate. As the battery voltage goes up, the voltage difference between the charger and the battery drops, so the charging rate falls..

Is a a 0.4V drop across a SmartBMS CL normal? Does anyone have anything else that I should try, other than replacing the SmartBMS with a giant DC-DC charger?



scott-laird asked

0 Answers

Connecting Phoenix VE 1200 inverter to outlet?

I am looking at adding power to a small teardrop camper via two 100 amp hour 12v LifePO4 batteries. The Victron Phoenix Inverter VE Direct 1200 would be perfect for my needs. However it only outputs to a GFCI plug. So my question is could I hard wire this inverter into my campers electrical setup (outlets) using an electrical cable with a plug on one end only? Alternatively I could just run an electric cord from the inverter to the shore power port on the camper, but this would not be as ‘clean’ or easy to use as hard wiring.

Note I do I understand that backfeeding needs to be avoided if connecting the inverter and shore power at the same time.

jasoncodispoti asked

0 Answers

Wiring Diagram Feedback

For a van conversion.

Is 40A Breaker on 6mm2 pushing it a little?

Diesel Heater is on its separate circuit, for safety.

No RCD/Consumer on multiplus shore inlet, I've heard this can cause headaches.

One thing I haven't drawn yet though.. I was considering charging the starter battery from the multiplus trickle, would that be any more complicated than just joining it to the starter battery positive?


[image]


cameron-thomas asked
cameron-thomas edited ·

1 Answer

Accidentally damaged the LEDs on MultiPlus, what now?

Hi all. I am at a loss right now. I am in the process of setting up my vans victron system, and today noticed that I somehow broke the “mains on” and “bulk” led lights on the multiplus. The cover was off, and they were somehow bent to the side with the top solder on each being snapped off. I am feeling sick that I let this happen. Unbelievably careless. So now I am wondering how I can get this fixed, and more importantly, what other damage I may have done to the inverter. Can I still use it assuming the only thing I hurt was the led lights? Will the broken solders cause any additional damage if the unit is powered on? Man, I’ve made mistakes, but this one really, really hurts. I am at a complete loss. Thanks in advance for any advice and help.

igvan asked
igvan commented ·

7 Answers

Wiring diagram feedback

Hi all,

I have already bought most of the larger Victron components and batteries, but didn't want to buy all the smaller items (cables, fuses, busbars, ...) until I had the entire diagram figured out for my campervan. This is what I've come up with (don't shoot my paint skills, haha). I would highly appreciate any feedback on my setup before I start buying the rest.

Thank you in advance!

J

[image]

durovenia asked
kevgermany answered ·

1 Answer

Victron system diagram for my conversion

What to choose for a BMS? I've seen diagrams with the VE.Bus, others with the Lynx BMS, others still with the BMS 12/100.

Does it make sense to plan two Orions 12/30 to leverage on the powerful smart alternator or it's overcomplicating the solution?

[image]


Context: I have a Mercedes V-Class (W447) where I want to replace an inverter of 1500W power (peak 3000W) and the "dead" battery. It is a "Luxury Van", rebuilt a few years ago, with a very large TV, coffee maker, Playstation, etc. I would like to install a Victron system and convert to a recreational vehicle for short weekend adventures. This is my first design composed from several sources, it may be incorrect.



vbo asked
vbo edited ·

0 Answers

Smartsolar to starter battery and orion tr to auxilary battery

Hello,


I'm thinking of upgrading the electrics in our Campervan.


Currently the alternator and solar panel charge both batteries simultaneous. I would like to disconnect the starter from the auxiliary battery to prevent draining the starter battery by accident while camping.

My thought is to hook up the Smartsolar controller to the starterbattery to keep it charged while not using it and hook up an Orion TR between the starter battery and the auxiliary battery.


When the engine is not running, ideally the Smartsolar would charger te starterbattery first, and the Orion TR will use any excess power charging the auxiliary battery.


And ofcourse the Orion TR will charge the auxiliary when the engine is running.


My questions are:

- Is this a good idea?

- Won't the Orion TR drain the starter battery because it consumes more power than the Smartsolar produces?


Looking to hear from you, much appreciated :).


Best regards,

Max

Max Flentge asked
kevgermany answered ·

3 Answers

Cerbo GX + GX Touch or CCGX

Hello,

now, i´m in the planning phase of our DIY Camper.

For the electric layout, i want to use the wiring Diagram of the "Victron Van" as a basic layout.

Instaed of the single 200Ah battery, i want to use 2 Victron 160Ah Batteries and eventually the 12/3000 MultiPlus to be safe for future AC-installations.

In the Layout of the "VictronVan" a CCGX Control Panel is used but i like to replace the CCGX with the Cerbo+GXtouch.

Is there any difference in the functionality between the CCGX and the Cerbo+GX-Touch or can i simply change the components ?

[image]



emil-eintopf asked
emil-eintopf answered ·

3 Answers

Incorrect voltage reading on DC-DC Charger

Hi,

I have an Orion 12|24-15 Non Iso DC-DC charger. Its input is a 12v starter battery on a Sprinter and the output is a 24v Li-Ion pack and they share a common ground.

I have been seeing strange charging issues and over-voltage alarms. On closer inspection the voltage shown in the app for the Orion doesn't match what I measure at its terminals with a meter.

These 2 images show the exact same time but a difference of 0.35v. Its been worse than this on other occasions and reads both under and over randomly.

Has anyone seen this kind of issue before on a DC/DC? Its on the latest FW, could it be a fault in the unit or my setup?

[image]

[image]


Additional Info

All Bluetooth devices have the latest firmware available in the Victron App.

As I am measuring at the terminals I dont expect cable or connector losses to be an issue here. I also have a good bit of other Victron kit on the same 24v side which all agree with the multi-meter consistently under < .1v difference . All the kit is connected on the 24v Side via a Lynx distribution unit with cable well within its ratings. Connection tightness double checked. As mentioned earlier sometimes the voltage in the DC-DC app reads over sometimes under and it seems to move around day to day.

Heres a comparison of readings:

Device Reported Voltage
Orion 12|24 - 15 (Output) 24.2
MPPT Smart Solar 23.88
Orion 24|12 - 30 (Input) 23.9
Smart Shunt 23.85
Multimeter 23.85


Any advice or questions welcome. Many Thanks!

Martin.

marv2097 asked
melgamal answered ·

2 Answers

Orion-TR Smart & Solar

Hi all,


I have a van with 3 x 100W fixed solar panels in series charging a 150ah lithium battery via the Victron 100/20 SmartSolar MPPT charger. I am considering adding the ability to charge whilst driving, so looking at adding the Orion-TR Smart 12/12-30A DC-DC charger.


I am a bit confused on the logistics of these two units working together however, with the solar fixed to the roof and potentally giving full output when driving in good sun. Is it fine to wire these two in parallel and let them run simultaneously when driving?

Anything I might be missing here?


Thanks,

Sean

seanhiace asked
tienn89 commented ·

3 Answers

NEED HELP! Van build electrical system experiencing array of issues

Hey everyone, we built a very nice electrical system for a customers 2021 Ford Transit and it seems to be plagued with some problems. I have racked my brain, double and triple checked everything, and can't come up with any answers. I'll give a breakdown of the system, then the issues they are experiencing:

200ah Battle Born Lithium batteries
Victron Orion Smart 30amp DC-DC charger
Victron SmartSolar 30amp MPPT charger
Victron Multiplus Compact 12/2000/80 Inverter/Charger
Victron SBP-100 Smart Battery Protect
Victron BMV-712 battery monitor
2 X 100watt Renogy panels
All wiring is Ancor Marine, fusing is Blue Sea Systems

The biggest loads on their system is their Webasto AT2000 heater, and Dometic CFX-65DZ fridge: around 50watts total

Problems:

Battery drain - while traveling they will regularly wake up and the batteries be at 70%. The heater may kick on a few times at night, but this seems like excessive battery drain.
Battery low voltage - they are getting low voltage warnings from the BMV-712 as well as their fridge; batteries are at 75% charge, but showing low voltage. This seems odd; our experience is that LiFePO4 batteries can maintain high voltage even when discharged.
Odd charging patterns - the other day they drove for an hour in bright sunlight. They should have easily topped off the batteries from the alternator plus solar charging. BMV-712 showed 62% charge. Then 5 minutes later it updated to 100% charge. Is it possible there is a communication error with the battery monitor?

In general, it doesn't seem like their system is charging as well as it should, and the batteries are draining way too quickly. We are out of ideas, as everything seems to be put together perfectly. Any thoughts? What kind of checks can we do? Could there be a parasitic drain on the system, and if so, how do we find that? Could we have a bad ground somewhere? And lastly, could these batteries be damaged if experiencing low voltage?

Thanks for any thoughts/suggestions.

richie-trent asked
Rene Mullie answered ·

1 Answer

MultiPlus ground wire overheating in an RV

I'm trying to diagnose an issue on a van that was brought into my shop. I'm pretty good on the electrical side but it's not my wheelhouse so I wanted to run this by the group for some super pro thoughts. The issue is the ground from the MultiPlus is overheating and has started to char. System is now shut down till the issue can be resolved.

Specs on the system are: Small home built camper van with 3 AGM batteries and a 2000W Mulitplus has a #14 ground from the Multiplus to the DC fuse box which in turn is run to the negative battery with a #10 wire and then to the chassis with a #2 wire. Positive & Negative from Multi are #2. My guess is that the negative wire from the multi was loose somewhere forcing current to run through the undersized ground wire. Does this sound reasonable or is there something I'm not seeing here?

Also what size should the ground be on this? I feel like #6 at minimum, possibly same size as negative? I'm also going to upgrade this to busbars so all connections are made there instead of on the battery terminals.


Thanks for the help!

Woody asked
Paul B answered ·

1 Answer

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