I have a European camper van that has a 24V 500Ah lifepo4 battery with a Victron Multiplus ii 24/3000/70-32 for 220V. The question is how can we charge the batteries/ power the 220V 50Hz outlets when we are in the USA (or other countries with 110V 60hz). I have thought out 2 options but, please, I’m open for others:
1- Installing a 110V to 220V transformer (typical chinese one for less than 100€) that will NOT change the frecuency -60Hz- but could imput the multiplus at 220V. We prefer this option as it would be cheaper, more powerful and the multiplus will be used as a charger how its supossed to. The only issues are:
A) will the multiplus output 220V 50Hz or output 220V 60hz as it is what the transformer is giving the multiplus (remember the chinese transformer doesnt change frecuency? By reading the manual (https://www.victronenergy.com.es/upload/documents/Datasheet-MultiPlus-II-inverter-charger-ES.pdf) I guess is the former but: Anyone can answer this based on practical knowledge?
B) Can the multiplus be input with 220V 60Hz? By my read of the manual is OK.
2- Just put a 110V to 24V Victron charger. The charging power wont be much but enough for such a big power bank that can take care of the multiplus loads.
Thank you beforehand,
I wonder if it is possible to create something like an autonomous electrical van.
For example, we might be able to put 3-4 solar panels of 400W each on the roof. Then something like 200Ah 24 lithium battery, a 3KVA multiplus and a EV Charging Station (at lowest current charge - 6A).
Maybe we can expect to charge 3KWH every day. That's around 5% of the vehicle battery.
If we plan to more just few kilometers and stay on the same place few days.
Could it be technically possible to charge the van with all this installation?
For sure, lithium battery shouldn't be used to directly charge the vehicle, but just to manage sun variation.
After hours of research I finally could manage to complete my setup for my camper van. I would be thankful if someone can review the setup and give me any tip to improve or correct the setup so it‘s done in a proper way
Components i used:
Working with limited space in my camper, and have my system designed with the MP 12/3000 directly above my two 300ah lifepo4 batteries. I know the manual states not to mount directly above batteries, but if I'm correct, that is due to off-gassing with other battery chemistries. Since lifepo4 batteries are fully sealed and do not off-gas, I'm thinking that mounting the inverter above them is totally fine, obviously with precaution to cover battery terminals so nothing is ever accidentally shorted.
How does this sound? Okay to mount above the lifepo4 batteries, or find a different place (which would be extremely difficult at this point)? Anyone from Victron have a say on this?
I found a great and simple setup diagram from your forum: https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/108022/simple-van-setup-help.html?childToView=140639
However, my question is - would it work with regular "dumb" alternator (no Euro5 or Euro6) ?
I have fried one alternator in the past during similar setup on a boat (but with CTEK MPPT + battery isolator), when my house battery bank was too big for the 60A 12V generator to charge (it kept pulling too much from alternator at once).
So, Do I understand correctly that the Orion controller limits the pull of current from the alternator to 30A even if I don't have "smart" Euro5 or Euro6 alternator?
I found misleading information in the internet and just want to be sure if and how I can use both Blue Smart IP22 and Smart Solar MPPT in parallel in my camper. The Blue Smart IP22 charger is used on the campsite with 230V input and the Smart Solar MPPT 100/15 together with the solar panel on the roof. Both will be connected to the same battery (utility battery). The systems istself is not connected to the cars‘s starter battery but only the utility battery.
So, do both devices communicate with each other via bluetooth or how will the one know from the other how is the battery status? And is there any possibility to give priority to either the solar or the grid charger? Is there any risk that the two chargers will badly interact with themselves due to both are ‚intelligent‘ chargers? Thanks for your support.
I'm trying to debug a slow charging problem. I have a SmartBMS CL 12/100 set for 90A, but I rarely see over 50A, even though my battery, alternator, and wiring should be more than capable of faster charging. If my Lithium battery is under 5% charged, then I *might* see a brief spike to 80A for a minute or two when I start my engine, after that it drops back to 50A within a few minutes. By the time the battery is half full, I'm lucky to see 30A. It takes 5 or 6 hours to fully charge the 200Ah LFP battery off of the alternator.
I'm seeing 13.8V on the input side of the SmartBMS with the engine idling, but voltage on the output side is down to 13.4V, as seen by the SmartBMS itself, multiple SmartShunts, and a multimeter across the SmartBMS. Voltage is more or less constant (13.4V relative to ground) through the whole DC system downstream of the SmartBMS.
I have a SmartBMS CL 12/100 connected like this:
Alternator (280A, +100A over stock, not smart) -> vehicle battery -> 100A fuse -> 15' AWG 2 -> Disconnect Switch -> SmartBMS
The output of the BMS is SmartBMS -> 500A SmartShunt -> Disconnect Switch -> 125A fuse -> bus bar -> 125A fuse -> 500A SmartShunt -> 200Ah Victron LFP battery.
All of the relevant wiring here is AWG 2 (35 mm^2). There are additional devices connected to the bus bar, but they only total ~2A at the moment.
All connectors appear to be tight. I generally only have 1 or 2 wires connected to each terminal, stacked in the correct order, with washers on top, using marine-grade fittings and heat shrink. Nothing appears to be overheating in any way. It's just charging slowly. Nothing has changed in ~9 months.
As a controlled test, I tried bypassing the SmartBMS briefly. Without the BMS, I saw roughly twice the charging rate, although the battery was nearly full at the time. The voltage at the battery jumped up to roughly match the BMS input-side voltage.
I *think* I'm not getting enough voltage to the battery through the SmartBMS to charge at a reasonable rate. As the battery voltage goes up, the voltage difference between the charger and the battery drops, so the charging rate falls..
Is a a 0.4V drop across a SmartBMS CL normal? Does anyone have anything else that I should try, other than replacing the SmartBMS with a giant DC-DC charger?
I am looking at adding power to a small teardrop camper via two 100 amp hour 12v LifePO4 batteries. The Victron Phoenix Inverter VE Direct 1200 would be perfect for my needs. However it only outputs to a GFCI plug. So my question is could I hard wire this inverter into my campers electrical setup (outlets) using an electrical cable with a plug on one end only? Alternatively I could just run an electric cord from the inverter to the shore power port on the camper, but this would not be as ‘clean’ or easy to use as hard wiring.
Note I do I understand that backfeeding needs to be avoided if connecting the inverter and shore power at the same time.
For a van conversion.
Is 40A Breaker on 6mm2 pushing it a little?
Diesel Heater is on its separate circuit, for safety.
No RCD/Consumer on multiplus shore inlet, I've heard this can cause headaches.
One thing I haven't drawn yet though.. I was considering charging the starter battery from the multiplus trickle, would that be any more complicated than just joining it to the starter battery positive?
Hi all. I am at a loss right now. I am in the process of setting up my vans victron system, and today noticed that I somehow broke the “mains on” and “bulk” led lights on the multiplus. The cover was off, and they were somehow bent to the side with the top solder on each being snapped off. I am feeling sick that I let this happen. Unbelievably careless. So now I am wondering how I can get this fixed, and more importantly, what other damage I may have done to the inverter. Can I still use it assuming the only thing I hurt was the led lights? Will the broken solders cause any additional damage if the unit is powered on? Man, I’ve made mistakes, but this one really, really hurts. I am at a complete loss. Thanks in advance for any advice and help.
I have already bought most of the larger Victron components and batteries, but didn't want to buy all the smaller items (cables, fuses, busbars, ...) until I had the entire diagram figured out for my campervan. This is what I've come up with (don't shoot my paint skills, haha). I would highly appreciate any feedback on my setup before I start buying the rest.
Thank you in advance!
What to choose for a BMS? I've seen diagrams with the VE.Bus, others with the Lynx BMS, others still with the BMS 12/100.
Does it make sense to plan two Orions 12/30 to leverage on the powerful smart alternator or it's overcomplicating the solution?
Context: I have a Mercedes V-Class (W447) where I want to replace an inverter of 1500W power (peak 3000W) and the "dead" battery. It is a "Luxury Van", rebuilt a few years ago, with a very large TV, coffee maker, Playstation, etc. I would like to install a Victron system and convert to a recreational vehicle for short weekend adventures. This is my first design composed from several sources, it may be incorrect.
I'm thinking of upgrading the electrics in our Campervan.
Currently the alternator and solar panel charge both batteries simultaneous. I would like to disconnect the starter from the auxiliary battery to prevent draining the starter battery by accident while camping.
My thought is to hook up the Smartsolar controller to the starterbattery to keep it charged while not using it and hook up an Orion TR between the starter battery and the auxiliary battery.
When the engine is not running, ideally the Smartsolar would charger te starterbattery first, and the Orion TR will use any excess power charging the auxiliary battery.
And ofcourse the Orion TR will charge the auxiliary when the engine is running.
My questions are:
- Is this a good idea?
- Won't the Orion TR drain the starter battery because it consumes more power than the Smartsolar produces?
Looking to hear from you, much appreciated :).
now, i´m in the planning phase of our DIY Camper.
For the electric layout, i want to use the wiring Diagram of the "Victron Van" as a basic layout.
Instaed of the single 200Ah battery, i want to use 2 Victron 160Ah Batteries and eventually the 12/3000 MultiPlus to be safe for future AC-installations.
In the Layout of the "VictronVan" a CCGX Control Panel is used but i like to replace the CCGX with the Cerbo+GXtouch.
Is there any difference in the functionality between the CCGX and the Cerbo+GX-Touch or can i simply change the components ?
I have an Orion 12|24-15 Non Iso DC-DC charger. Its input is a 12v starter battery on a Sprinter and the output is a 24v Li-Ion pack and they share a common ground.
I have been seeing strange charging issues and over-voltage alarms. On closer inspection the voltage shown in the app for the Orion doesn't match what I measure at its terminals with a meter.
These 2 images show the exact same time but a difference of 0.35v. Its been worse than this on other occasions and reads both under and over randomly.
Has anyone seen this kind of issue before on a DC/DC? Its on the latest FW, could it be a fault in the unit or my setup?
All Bluetooth devices have the latest firmware available in the Victron App.
As I am measuring at the terminals I dont expect cable or connector losses to be an issue here. I also have a good bit of other Victron kit on the same 24v side which all agree with the multi-meter consistently under < .1v difference . All the kit is connected on the 24v Side via a Lynx distribution unit with cable well within its ratings. Connection tightness double checked. As mentioned earlier sometimes the voltage in the DC-DC app reads over sometimes under and it seems to move around day to day.
Heres a comparison of readings:
|Orion 12|24 - 15 (Output)||24.2|
|MPPT Smart Solar||23.88|
|Orion 24|12 - 30 (Input)||23.9|
Any advice or questions welcome. Many Thanks!