Hey everyone, we built a very nice electrical system for a customers 2021 Ford Transit and it seems to be plagued with some problems. I have racked my brain, double and triple checked everything, and can't come up with any answers. I'll give a breakdown of the system, then the issues they are experiencing:
200ah Battle Born Lithium batteries
Victron Orion Smart 30amp DC-DC charger
Victron SmartSolar 30amp MPPT charger
Victron Multiplus Compact 12/2000/80 Inverter/Charger
Victron SBP-100 Smart Battery Protect
Victron BMV-712 battery monitor
2 X 100watt Renogy panels
All wiring is Ancor Marine, fusing is Blue Sea Systems
The biggest loads on their system is their Webasto AT2000 heater, and Dometic CFX-65DZ fridge: around 50watts total
Battery drain - while traveling they will regularly wake up and the batteries be at 70%. The heater may kick on a few times at night, but this seems like excessive battery drain.
Battery low voltage - they are getting low voltage warnings from the BMV-712 as well as their fridge; batteries are at 75% charge, but showing low voltage. This seems odd; our experience is that LiFePO4 batteries can maintain high voltage even when discharged.
Odd charging patterns - the other day they drove for an hour in bright sunlight. They should have easily topped off the batteries from the alternator plus solar charging. BMV-712 showed 62% charge. Then 5 minutes later it updated to 100% charge. Is it possible there is a communication error with the battery monitor?
In general, it doesn't seem like their system is charging as well as it should, and the batteries are draining way too quickly. We are out of ideas, as everything seems to be put together perfectly. Any thoughts? What kind of checks can we do? Could there be a parasitic drain on the system, and if so, how do we find that? Could we have a bad ground somewhere? And lastly, could these batteries be damaged if experiencing low voltage?
Thanks for any thoughts/suggestions.
I'm trying to diagnose an issue on a van that was brought into my shop. I'm pretty good on the electrical side but it's not my wheelhouse so I wanted to run this by the group for some super pro thoughts. The issue is the ground from the MultiPlus is overheating and has started to char. System is now shut down till the issue can be resolved.
Specs on the system are: Small home built camper van with 3 AGM batteries and a 2000W Mulitplus has a #14 ground from the Multiplus to the DC fuse box which in turn is run to the negative battery with a #10 wire and then to the chassis with a #2 wire. Positive & Negative from Multi are #2. My guess is that the negative wire from the multi was loose somewhere forcing current to run through the undersized ground wire. Does this sound reasonable or is there something I'm not seeing here?
Also what size should the ground be on this? I feel like #6 at minimum, possibly same size as negative? I'm also going to upgrade this to busbars so all connections are made there instead of on the battery terminals.
Thanks for the help!
I have finished my first revision of the campervan schematics, I am sure I would have forgotten a few items (such as the Dometic fridge, a shower solution etc), but this is the general installation. I wanted some people to check it over and to see if everything looks legit in terms of wiring etc. I suspect the solar wattage should be enough considering I have the DC-DC charger? Also in terms of AC power, can someone advise on a suitable distribution box that will work seamlessly with the Multiplus and the correct wire sizes for this also please?
Let me know if anything looks wrong. I plan to fit what I can and get it approved by an electrician.
I have an Orion 12|24-15 Non Iso DC-DC charger. Its input is a 12v starter battery on a Sprinter and the output is a 24v Li-Ion pack and they share a common ground.
I have been seeing strange charging issues and over-voltage alarms. On closer inspection the voltage shown in the app for the Orion doesn't match what I measure at its terminals with a meter.
These 2 images show the exact same time but a difference of 0.35v. Its been worse than this on other occasions and reads both under and over randomly.
Has anyone seen this kind of issue before on a DC/DC? Its on the latest FW, could it be a fault in the unit or my setup?
All Bluetooth devices have the latest firmware available in the Victron App.
As I am measuring at the terminals I dont expect cable or connector losses to be an issue here. I also have a good bit of other Victron kit on the same 24v side which all agree with the multi-meter consistently under < .1v difference . All the kit is connected on the 24v Side via a Lynx distribution unit with cable well within its ratings. Connection tightness double checked. As mentioned earlier sometimes the voltage in the DC-DC app reads over sometimes under and it seems to move around day to day.
Heres a comparison of readings:
|Orion 12|24 - 15 (Output)||24.2|
|MPPT Smart Solar||23.88|
|Orion 24|12 - 30 (Input)||23.9|
Any advice or questions welcome. Many Thanks!
We’re using an Orion Smart 30A to charge the leisure batteries while the engine is running in our van. However, we also have 500w of solar (real world output up to 30A) connected to a SmartSolar.
We’re finding after long periods stationary, particularly with use of vehicle accessories like the radio, that the starter battery can be a little low. Despite having completely full leisure batteries thanks to the solar. And had even failed to start the engine once (fixed by manually connecting leisure to starter to get engine on).
Is there a way to trickle charge the starter, with any excess power but without allowing any leisure accessories to drain the starter? And without “waking up” the Orion and creating a loop?
I have a van with 3 x 100W fixed solar panels in series charging a 150ah lithium battery via the Victron 100/20 SmartSolar MPPT charger. I am considering adding the ability to charge whilst driving, so looking at adding the Orion-TR Smart 12/12-30A DC-DC charger.
I am a bit confused on the logistics of these two units working together however, with the solar fixed to the roof and potentally giving full output when driving in good sun. Is it fine to wire these two in parallel and let them run simultaneously when driving?
Anything I might be missing here?
I've been searching around the community and asked my dealer regarding the following connection but couldn't get my head around this particular situation.
I am instaling a MP2 and a buck boost in a vehicle 24V installation. I would like to use the "starter battery charge" ruction of the MP2 (E-connection) for when the vehicle is connected to "shore power". Also, I would liker to use the auto detection of the buck boost for charging the LiFePo cells.
My question is now: How can I make sure that the buck boost will not switch on when the MP is charging the starter batteries? The he voltage threshold is probably not sufficient and is the vibration detection sufficient? Or is it best to install a fixed input to the alternator via the purple connector of the buck boost?
Thanks for our input and help :-)
I am installing a 3phase Setup with 3 Multiplus 24-3000 in an offgrid camper setup.
Input will be single phase. I will not need the 3phase configuration all the time.
Is there any way to switch to single phase mode with only one Multiplus active and back to 3phase if needed? Therefore saving standby power of 2 Multiplus when 3000VA would be enough?
I understand that if I switch off 2 Multiplus the system will give a failure and not work at all.
Good afternoon all,
**Updated wiring Diagram in response to advice.
I am planning my VW T5 Day/Fishing van wiring and would like to ask opinions to make sure that I haven't missed anything.
I have a 120W panel with Victron 75/10 MPPT controller. This is going to be connected to a 95Ah leisure battery in parallel to a split charge VSR circuit.
I have one USB socket that will be permanently fed (for rear passengers), and then the leisure circuit will be isolated via a switch, with other accessories switched at the rear of the van.
The largest draw will be from my 3-way fridge that will be supplied 12V whilst in transit (it will be gas fed outside the van when camped), so I foresee periods of 1 hour or so where leisure battery alone will provide power (when on Eurotunnel for example) for which my Dometic RM8501 draws 10.8A.
Thank you in advance for any comments.
We just bought a 2022 Intech Sol Horizon Rover Camper Trailer. We had our dealer install a solar package that Included 300 watts of panels to a SmartSolar 100/30 MPPT feeding dual 120Ah Lithium batteries (240ah Total) with Monitoring via the BMV-712. (See the picture below)
We haven't had it but a few days but I would like to add a Phoenix Inverter 12/1200 and connect it to our existing breakers by way of our Progressive Dynamics PD4135. I realize I need a transfer switch, either manual or automatic, and will need to turn off the converter manually in the PD4135 every time I want to run off the inverter.
Sorry for the questions. I've tried looking up answers, but they never seem to quite answer my questions.
I have one working Victron system in a sprinter motorhome, and am building a slightly larger system, for a larger vehicle.
Sprinter: BMS 12/200A (non-smart)
2 x 60AH Victron LiFePO4 (non-smart)
Victron 12-800 inverter.
All wired exactly as per the BMS 12-200 diagram, with the vehicles alternator, but with a diffferent inverter, and no DC isolator, .
I want to add battery monitoring, and solar charging.
1. Will BMV 712 smart monitor work with this system? or does it require the battery and/or BMS to be smart also?
If the BMV needs the BMS & batteries to be smart, am I better off buying a BMV700 instead?
2. Obvs this is a 12v system, but some people have said solar should run at a higher voltage, to minimise losses. I get that, BUT is it better to run (say) 2 panels at 24v, then transform it close to the BMS, or are the losses from panels on the roof rack neglidgable enough to run 12v (parallel panels) and keep it simple?
Cable length would be about 2.5m.
3. I have seen that the BMS 12-200 can have solar attached to connectors AB or LB.
What's the difference? and which should I use?
Ok, vehicle two, work in progress.
I have two Victron 160AH LiFePO4's (non-smart)
This 2nd system will be built into a dedicated box trailer, so it can be parked in the sun, transported or stored.
I don't have anything else yet, so all options are open.
I guess the main question (similar to the above) is:
1. whether I should get the smart version of the BMS 12 200, or if that's pointless without smart batteries, or would the smart BMS & smart BMV work well with the non-smart batteries?
2. Is it best option is to build an identical system, so the two are compatible?
(Compatible in the sense that I could link the panels up, or maybe even combine the two into one bigger system)
Or what other options are there?
24v system with the VE bus maybe?
or is the short cable run going to have negligable losses, so 12v would be fine?
Thanks very much.
In my RV I will have 12V starter battery, but due to high amperages I think about making hotel battery 24V to cut them by 2.
If I connect Cyrix-Li-Ct on the one side to 24V battery and on the other to 12V starter battery will it work? Or it will break?
Is such connection safe at all?
Kan iemand mij aan een schema helpen hoe een Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30A met Schaudt EBL 119 aan te sluiten?
I'm trying to layout the electric in my camper van and am thinking of having 2 DC fuse blocks (passenger's side, driver's side).
I have 5 loads in total (1 inverter, 1 dc-to-dc charger, 1 solar, 2 dc fuse blocks).
Rather than buying 2 lynx distributors, I'm wondering if I could just stack the +ve and -ve of both my fuse blocks onto a single load output in the lynx distributor (of course adjusting gauge and fuse).
Is this recommended, or not - can anyone highlight issues in doing this?
I received the Cyrix-ct Battery Combiner Kit today. The relay can handle 120A and the alternator of my van supplies max 90A. All good so far.
I've bought the kit to connect a 180Ah AGM semi traction leisure battery to my starter battery/alternator.
The kit comes with 10mm2 power cables. I've read online that cables of 10mm2 and this length can handle 30A max. Aren't these too thin for the 90A my alternator provides, let alone the 120A the Cyrix can handle? Or is your experience that these cables are perfectly suitable for the job? After all, they won't put them in the kit for nothing.
I now doubt whether I should return the kit and buy a separate Cyrix with thicker cables. I'd love to hear what you guys think about this.
Currently I am working on a simple setup for a camper. I would like to ask you to check if this setup is correct or if I still need to adjust something here.
For now I only want to use shore power to charge the battery and in the future I want to expand this with solar panels.
I do not intend to connect this setup to the alternator for the time being.
We have been struggling to figure out all of the components needed to setup a 24v system in our RV. We have 4 255w solar panels, Victron Multiplus 3000, Victron 150|35 MPPT, and after much debate between Tesla modules, and Battleborn batteries, we are going with Battleborn.
We have also been looking at the Orion converters but do not know whether to go with an isolated or non-isolated one. We also were looking at the Victron Octo GX to control it all.
Holly & Dustin.
I hope this is not an inappropriate question
I'm designing a minimal off grid system for my 1989 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia campervan. I will have 2 x 75Ah SLA leisure batteries and 75Amp engine battery. I'll upgrade leisure batteries to LiFePO4 in a year or so. I'll have a single 160 Watt PV panel.
I'll use all Victron kit: MTTP solar controller, B2B charger, Lynx, Shunt and battery disconnect and 230v ac to 12v DC charger. I'll only need 500 Watt inverter to charge ebike, ideally from alternator while moving. I'll use Bluetooth to monitor.
Can you point me to a wiring diagram to help me choose exact model and calculate wiring sizes and fuses.
Any advice or suggestions very welcome.
I am literally starting from Zero...There is no existing equipment or installation in my overlander. Designs on possibles installations are super useful, any tips or help I can get is most welcome!!!!
I have plenty of space on the roof: 2.4x5.2 meters. Plenty of space for the battery bank, converter equipment, etc
Best batteries (cost/benefit)
Cabin and box connected and if possible a relay to charge the batteries with the alternator.
AC Unit 230V and DC
Thanks in advance!
All your help is most welcome
Based on my campervan plans, I am looking at a 24v system, with a few stepped down 12v items using an Orion Unit. I wanted to check if there would be any issues with earthing the system, as it is a 12v van? Anything else that I should be bearing in mind?
I am in the design phase to transform a sprinter 211 cdi, L1H1, everything a little tight !!!!, but perfect for use here in Europe and explore small towns, easy to park ... etc
But now I got to the point of doing the electrical project, which I'm not used to doing, I'm a civil engineer, I understand 220v AC circuits.
I wish you could help me with that part.
I'm Brazilian, but I also live a lot here in Portugal, where I'm going to do the conversation. Well, I started making a spreadsheet, with the necessary equipment and power, I have no intention of filling the camper with things, not least because it is an L1H1 sprinter, and I would like to have a simple electrical installation, but I don't want to have gas inside , so I prefer a stove with only one induction zone and to heat the water a D6 truma, which is diesel.
https: //www.ikea.com/en/en/manuals/tillreda-portable- induction-hob__AA-2234813-3.pdf
But from the calculations I made and compared to others I saw on the net, it seems that it ends up consuming a lot of power, with that it makes the electrical part expensive.
I don't want to spend so much only because of the induction.
In my calculations, it would have:
2 - lithium batteries of 100ah each
2 - solar panels of 100w each
1- 2000w inverter
1 - victron 100/30 controller
I don't know what equipment I would still need for everything to work.
In your opinion is this configuration sufficient to make quick meals and stay a day or two off-grid?
I will be grateful if you can help me, presenting an electrical diagram with the necessary equipment.
I am grateful if you answer.
Well, the result of the spreadsheet was:
|Quantity||Watts||Voltage||Amps||Amps in DC (12V)||Hrs||Wh||Ah|
I am building a campervan and try to figure out the best solutions. I have dual alternator Ford Transit with 175Amp output and my "pre-plan" is to use it to connect to 3000W inverter and run 120V to Victron Multiplus 3000W to 24V battery banks. (3 LiFePo4 batteries 170Ah 24V connected in parallel). For solar power I am thinking of Victron Solar Charger Controller 250V/100Amps.
I am not an electrician and my questions may be naïve, but I still need the answers:
1. Can the outputs of Victron Multiplus and the Solar Charger Controller be connected to the same Busbar?
2. What kind of solar panels are best for that setup?
3. Where do I need to connect circuit brakers?
My RV has tank level sensors. 4 pins installed on tank. Each has a resistor connected to it. (except for common)
the bottom 2 pins are at same level. The current system uses 12vdc and it will read 8 vdc when they are both wet. The next pin up is 2/3 level and drop to 6vdc, and 4th pin drops to 4vdc.
So if I remove power and just use the resistances. I should be able to get some reading either NA standard or EU?
the bottom 2 pins have a 0 ohm value when jumped. @ 1/3 level
the next has a 68 ohm valve when jumped to common.
top sensor pin is 188ohm when jumped to common.
I believe this should give 256 ohm when full. and 0 when 1/3 or just slightly off 0 ohm.
I've seen many ppl ask about camper style tank sensors and I think this is what most are referring to. There is no way I can get to my tanks to install float style sensors. And if its any more than building a resistor pack to change the values. I would just stay with the original KIB Tank Monitor system.
It sure would be nice to have it all in the same display.
(Currently have venus/multiplus/bmv-712/mppt 100/50- venus is temporary until cerbo arrives in Canada in August from what I'm told)
I would like to buy a Blue Smart IP22 Charger for my VW T5. It has 2 leisure batteries in it (under the front seats). My question is regarding plugging in the van when at UK campsites.
The campsites will limit the amount of current that can be drawn though a hookup (sometimes 10A, sometimes 16A). If I go for the 15A Blue Smart charger, could it trip out the campsite supply when I plug it in? And if it does, will LOW mode help to prevent it?
Thanks in advance.
I'm uplifting the Starter Battery from 12 to 24v with an Orion Tr Smart non-Isolated 12/24 20A but can't find information on the wire thickness for the input. As an output 6mm2 (AWG 9) will work fine, but no idea for the input (cable from Starter Battery to the Orion)
also, some wiring diagrams would help :)
Has anyone used a Cyrix ct-li to connect a high-power 12V vehicle charging system with lead-acid batteries to a 400AH (non-Victron) battery system (Battleborn, 4x100AH parallel connected, built-in BMS)?
What prevents the 400AH of LIFePO4 batteries sucking down very high charge currents (perhaps 400A) and overloading the vehicle alternator (rated 250Apeak, but reports suggest better run at <150A for extended duration to avoid overheating).
What cuts off overcharging the LiFePO4 batteries?
Any better suggestions for charging the house batteries? The rest of the system is basically a Victron MultiPlus 12/3000/120 and downstream 12V and 120V loads.
I have a 2S 2P setup on my camper with 4x100w panels and a 110Ah LiFePo4 battery. I use the camper a lot in the winter when yield from the solar is low, especially since the panel are flat on the roof. I am thinking about making adjustable angle brackets for the panels, but i think I can only use them on two without casting a shadow on 3&4. Is this worth it, or will the two horizontal panels pull down the extra available from the two at an angle? If there is a benefit, how would it be best to connect them? i.e. 1 pair in series or one from each parallel set.
I'm setting up a solar system for my cabover camper, and I have a few questions about setting up the solar system in the camper, primarily regarding the wiring and fusing of the system. I have the following components:
- 190W Rich Solar panel
- Victron MPPT 100/15 charge controller
- IP22 charger for charging when on shore power
- Victron Orion TR 12/12-30 DC-to-DC converter for charging from the truck alternator
- 12V, 100Ah Battleborn LiFePO4 battery
- Victron Phoenix 12/375 DC-AC Inverter
- Victron Bluetooth smart battery sense (not shown in the schematics)
The devices that will be powered from this system are:
- From the inverter: only oxygen generator (rated at 100W)
- From 12V DC :
- AC will only be powered when on shore power.
I'm planning to install positive and negative busbars in the battery compartment and connect the positive from the battery to the busbar using 60A MEGA fuse and AWG6 wire. The solar panel input to MPPT will be fused with 20A inline circuit breaker, and all wires are AWG10. The inverter will be fused with a 40A circuit breaker on AWG8 wire. A few questions that I have for the esteemed members of the community are:
I would really appreciate all your suggestions/corrections to help me connect all of the components!
I've spent a good while trying to learn what will be required for my setup and would really appreciate someone answering a few questions and taking a look over my proposed setup.
I will be using the 100ah Lifepo4 smart battery, this will be charged using the Orion-TR Smart DC-DC Charger via the Alternator. The Battery will power both DC and AC loads through the Sargent EC155 and the Victrons Phoenix Inverter; where im stuck is working out whats actually required in such a small system?
I have a decent understanding of 12v campervan electrics, however it seems it isn't quite so simple when using Lithium Lifepo3 batteries - I've attached a basic diagram of what the system will include on the Victron side (please ignore the direction of arrows).
The build will include basic 12v appliances such as a 12v fridge, water pump, LED lighting and a small inverter - most small appliances will be ran via the Sargent EC155. Heres where i'm struggling:
1- The van will include a 240v hookup which will run through the Sargent ec155 powering plug sockets and charging the leisure battery - Will this charger be sufficient for Lifepo4 batteries?
2- Do I need a Smart Battery Shunt if I'm using Victrons Smart Lifepo4 batteries?
3- What size fuse will I require for a 100ah Lifepo4 battery?
4- Am I right that the Mini BMS controls (on/off to protect over/under voltage) the charging side of the system and does the same on the load side via the Battery protect? I'm a little puzzled as to how this should be wired up to operate the inverter via the remote function; I've seen people using relays etc.
5- Can I run both the Waeco fridge and all other 12v appliances through one battery protect?
Thanks in advance,