Can you please tell me how to use the Smart BMS 12/200 with a DC booster in a modern camper van? Should the DC booster:

1. either be inserted in between alternator/starter bat. and left input from the smart BMS for alternator/starter bat.
2. or directly connected to the Smart Lithium battery?

Thanks

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I am trying to figure out what is the correct circuit breaker size to use for the installation of my Orion DC - DC 24/24 -17. I am using 10mm2 cable from the Orion to input (van batteries), 6mm2 from Lynx distributor to Orion.

Calculations using the formula: Current (Amps) = Power (Watts) / Voltage (Volt) suggests a minimum 25 amp circuit breaker, therefore I consider a 30amp.

However, I have read in another post, that I may use a 40amp Mega fuse in my lynx distributor (as that is the smallest mega fuse available), does this also mean I should use a 40 amp circuit breaker as well?

Any help, much appreciated

Hi, i just bought a used MultiPlus 3k 230V with the old Micro an FW 1909143. (Year 2012)

I want to understand, if it is sufficant for my intended use or what restriction I have compared to a new one (Micro 26xxx)?

Planned use:

• Install in campervan
• With 2 smartsolar Mppt and smartshunt (500a)
• 200ah lifepo4
• Victron ve.Bluetooth adapter --> found out this is not possible
• Cerbo GX and Touch?
• "Intelligent" Battery/Solar dependant use of Line (2) for AirCon or Fridge (not a must)

Which Firmware should be prefered VirtualSwitch (1xx) oder Assistant (2xx)?

I still have some caveats against the old one ...

Thank you,

Andreas

Hello community,

I am currently working on a plan for my camper van build and I recently found the EasySolar 2 GX, but some questions are unanswered for me. Maybe you can help me.

My biggest concern is if one element of the device fails, for example the MPPT, is the rest of the system still working or is the whole electricity setup shut down? Is it possible to repair or replace one element if it breaks or do I have to buy a whole system again? (Or have it repaired if it breaks in warranty.) Can I do this by myself or do I need a professional for that? Is it possible to turn the inverter of but still have the ability to charge the battery?

Thank you in advance for your answer or tips.

Martin

Hi all,

I have a van with 3 x 100W fixed solar panels in series charging a 150ah lithium battery via the Victron 100/20 SmartSolar MPPT charger. I am considering adding the ability to charge whilst driving, so looking at adding the Orion-TR Smart 12/12-30A DC-DC charger.

I am a bit confused on the logistics of these two units working together however, with the solar fixed to the roof and potentally giving full output when driving in good sun. Is it fine to wire these two in parallel and let them run simultaneously when driving?

Anything I might be missing here?

Thanks,

Sean

I have setup 4 X 300AH LiFePo4 batteries with 4 X JK BMS connected and talking to Venus OS thanks to dbus-serialbattery on RPI. This battery bank is located on a boat, but the same potential issue exists on VAN installations. Here it is:
There is a major concern if at any point the battery BMSs disconnect due to high voltage or another reason while the alternator is running, there will over voltage of way over 100V that is going to spike through the system (aka load dump) and possibly fry other equipment on the boat. In this setup I'm using WS-500 smart alternator regulator that could stop the alternator charging when the BMS is about to disconnect due to hight voltage. Even if the WS-500 executes stops charging, the alternator require about 500mS to stop generating to prevent the load dump. Right now Venus OS alarm and relay triggers ant the exact time the BMS issues disconnect command to it's MOSFETs. Obviously there is not enough time for the alternator to shutdown.

The question is can I trick JK BMS or Venus OS to trigger an alarm before any FET disconnect command is issued and is it possible to delay the FET disconnect let's say by 2sec just to be on the safe side? I'm thinking of setting the alternator stop change if possible for 50mV lower setting then the BMS disconnect voltage is set for e.g.

BMS cell over voltage protection: 3.600V

Alarm to be triggered (to stop any charging): 3.550V

Not sure if that could be currently set on Venus OS. Any thoughts?

I'm hoping the collective mind can help me here.

I've just purchased a Mutliplus-II 12/3000/120, the 230v version as I'm UK based, for my campervan. I think I'm clued up and understanding the 12v side of things, but the AC side of things has got me all confused. Rest assured that I will be getting my system signed-off by a qualified electrician before using it, but I'm hoping to save some money by wiring it all myself so I need to order all of the consumer units, RCDs, MCBs, RCBOs and/or RCCBs but there seems to be very little on the web (unless I'm missing something!) that tells me exactly what's needed, and/or what I do read is conflicted on the next webpage that I read.

Here's what I'll have in my system...

• Mutliplus-II 12/3000/120 - 230v
• Digital Multi Control 200/200A GX
• 3000kw inverter generator (max 13a output)
• shore connection

Here's what I think I need to purchase...

• AC-In
  • RCD (32 Amp, Type A) - for shore power input
  • RCD (32 Amp, Type A) - for generator input
  • both above will feed a 2-way changeover switch
  • MCB (32 Amp, Curve C) - Multiplus
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - one socket
    
    
• AC-Out 1 (inverter and gen/shore passthrough, max 45 Amps)
  • RCD (63 Amp, Type A)
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - passenger's side sockets
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - driver's side sockets
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - front sockets
    
    
• AC-Out 2 (gen/shore supply only, max 32 Amps)
  • RCD (32 Amp, Type A)
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - hot water heater
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - vehicle battery charger
  • MCB (16 Amp, Curve C) - TBC

Have I understood correctly? If not, please can someone tell me what's wrong and what I should order instead?

In case it helps in any way, here's a picture of my wiring diagram (yes, I know, I have too much time on my hands!) - if you open it in a new window you will be able to zoom in.

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Thanks in advance!

Hi,

I have a European camper van that has a 24V 500Ah lifepo4 battery with a Victron Multiplus ii 24/3000/70-32 for 220V. The question is how can we charge the batteries/ power the 220V 50Hz outlets when we are in the USA (or other countries with 110V 60hz). I have thought out 2 options but, please, I’m open for others:

1- Installing a 110V to 220V transformer (typical chinese one for less than 100€) that will NOT change the frecuency -60Hz- but could imput the multiplus at 220V. We prefer this option as it would be cheaper, more powerful and the multiplus will be used as a charger how its supossed to. The only issues are:

A) will the multiplus output 220V 50Hz or output 220V 60hz as it is what the transformer is giving the multiplus (remember the chinese transformer doesnt change frecuency? By reading the manual (https://www.victronenergy.com.es/upload/documents/Datasheet-MultiPlus-II-inverter-charger-ES.pdf) I guess is the former but: Anyone can answer this based on practical knowledge?

B) Can the multiplus be input with 220V 60Hz? By my read of the manual is OK.

2- Just put a 110V to 24V Victron charger. The charging power wont be much but enough for such a big power bank that can take care of the multiplus loads.

Thank you beforehand,

Alberto

Hello,

I wonder if it is possible to create something like an autonomous electrical van.

For example, we might be able to put 3-4 solar panels of 400W each on the roof. Then something like 200Ah 24 lithium battery, a 3KVA multiplus and a EV Charging Station (at lowest current charge - 6A).

Maybe we can expect to charge 3KWH every day. That's around 5% of the vehicle battery.

If we plan to more just few kilometers and stay on the same place few days.

Could it be technically possible to charge the van with all this installation?

For sure, lithium battery shouldn't be used to directly charge the vehicle, but just to manage sun variation.

Thanks

Hi

After hours of research I finally could manage to complete my setup for my camper van. I would be thankful if someone can review the setup and give me any tip to improve or correct the setup so it‘s done in a proper way

Components i used:

• Orion Tr 12-12/30 to charge the 100Ah Lithium battery from alternator
• MPPT 75/15 to charge the battery from my 120Wp solar panel
• Phoenix smart charger 1+1 30A to charge/supply the system from AC
• Phoenix 500VA inverter for AC loads
• BatteryProtect 65A to secure DC loads
• smallBMS to connect all remote connectors from all components

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Working with limited space in my camper, and have my system designed with the MP 12/3000 directly above my two 300ah lifepo4 batteries. I know the manual states not to mount directly above batteries, but if I'm correct, that is due to off-gassing with other battery chemistries. Since lifepo4 batteries are fully sealed and do not off-gas, I'm thinking that mounting the inverter above them is totally fine, obviously with precaution to cover battery terminals so nothing is ever accidentally shorted.

How does this sound? Okay to mount above the lifepo4 batteries, or find a different place (which would be extremely difficult at this point)? Anyone from Victron have a say on this?

Thanks all

I found a great and simple setup diagram from your forum: https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/108022/simple-van-setup-help.html?childToView=140639

However, my question is - would it work with regular "dumb" alternator (no Euro5 or Euro6) ?

I have fried one alternator in the past during similar setup on a boat (but with CTEK MPPT + battery isolator), when my house battery bank was too big for the 60A 12V generator to charge (it kept pulling too much from alternator at once).

So, Do I understand correctly that the Orion controller limits the pull of current from the alternator to 30A even if I don't have "smart" Euro5 or Euro6 alternator?

I found misleading information in the internet and just want to be sure if and how I can use both Blue Smart IP22 and Smart Solar MPPT in parallel in my camper. The Blue Smart IP22 charger is used on the campsite with 230V input and the Smart Solar MPPT 100/15 together with the solar panel on the roof. Both will be connected to the same battery (utility battery). The systems istself is not connected to the cars‘s starter battery but only the utility battery.

So, do both devices communicate with each other via bluetooth or how will the one know from the other how is the battery status? And is there any possibility to give priority to either the solar or the grid charger? Is there any risk that the two chargers will badly interact with themselves due to both are ‚intelligent‘ chargers? Thanks for your support.

I'm trying to debug a slow charging problem. I have a SmartBMS CL 12/100 set for 90A, but I rarely see over 50A, even though my battery, alternator, and wiring should be more than capable of faster charging. If my Lithium battery is under 5% charged, then I *might* see a brief spike to 80A for a minute or two when I start my engine, after that it drops back to 50A within a few minutes. By the time the battery is half full, I'm lucky to see 30A. It takes 5 or 6 hours to fully charge the 200Ah LFP battery off of the alternator.

I'm seeing 13.8V on the input side of the SmartBMS with the engine idling, but voltage on the output side is down to 13.4V, as seen by the SmartBMS itself, multiple SmartShunts, and a multimeter across the SmartBMS. Voltage is more or less constant (13.4V relative to ground) through the whole DC system downstream of the SmartBMS.

I have a SmartBMS CL 12/100 connected like this:

Alternator (280A, +100A over stock, not smart) -> vehicle battery -> 100A fuse -> 15' AWG 2 -> Disconnect Switch -> SmartBMS

The output of the BMS is SmartBMS -> 500A SmartShunt -> Disconnect Switch -> 125A fuse -> bus bar -> 125A fuse -> 500A SmartShunt -> 200Ah Victron LFP battery.

All of the relevant wiring here is AWG 2 (35 mm^2). There are additional devices connected to the bus bar, but they only total ~2A at the moment.

All connectors appear to be tight. I generally only have 1 or 2 wires connected to each terminal, stacked in the correct order, with washers on top, using marine-grade fittings and heat shrink. Nothing appears to be overheating in any way. It's just charging slowly. Nothing has changed in ~9 months.

As a controlled test, I tried bypassing the SmartBMS briefly. Without the BMS, I saw roughly twice the charging rate, although the battery was nearly full at the time. The voltage at the battery jumped up to roughly match the BMS input-side voltage.

I *think* I'm not getting enough voltage to the battery through the SmartBMS to charge at a reasonable rate. As the battery voltage goes up, the voltage difference between the charger and the battery drops, so the charging rate falls..

Is a a 0.4V drop across a SmartBMS CL normal? Does anyone have anything else that I should try, other than replacing the SmartBMS with a giant DC-DC charger?