Hi all,

I am trying to understand the best way to charge both Lithium (House) and Led Acid (Start) incorporating a WakeSpeed regulator.

There are various diagrams online but it’s not totally clear how the combined setup works.

Would one of the two set ups below work? Or does anyone have a simple diagram to visualise the correct approach? Thanks.

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I am planning to replace my Volvo standard alternator (which has a built in regulator) with a Balmar model and an external regulator. My current set up is shown in the first diagram. This works, but has the disadvantage that the lithium charging is limited to the output of the DC-DC converter.

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Is there any reason why I cannot re-arrange the components to use the DC-DC converter to charge the starter battery instead (see second diagram)? My reasoning is the output of the DC-DC converter is more than adequate to replace the entry used for starting.

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Hi all,

I'm planning to set up a DC-DC Orion converter to charge a Victron LiFePO4 house battery in charger mode (coupled to a starter battery, the latter powered by an alternator). Does the chemistry of the two batteries have to be the same? In other words, do I have to replace the engine starter battery with a LiFePO4 starter battery (for example, a pair of DL+ 12V Dakotas for a 24V system)?

I recently installed a dedicated shunt for my 24V Alternator/Wakespeed charging source (CAN connected to Cerbo and BMS). This is on a system with a REC BMS that provides its own battery current data (sensed by its own shunt) to the Cerbo via CAN.

Now when I'm charging with the alternator, the DC power displayed by the Cerbo and VRM is ≈2x what really is. I've looked around for settings on Cerbo, and read the documentation but I can't seem to find anything to correct the display.

Prior to installing the dedicated shunt and configuring the wakespeed to use it, DC Power was correct. My suspicion is the CERBO is adding the battery current to the wakespeed reported charging current, hence ≈2x.

I do have "has DC system" enabled because the majority of my system loads are DC. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi,

I'm planning a set up for charging a Victron Smart Lithium 12v 200ah battery from the alternator of my van (a 2012 Mercedes Sprinter 313cdi).

I will have Dometic Freshwell 3000 air conditioning unit in the back of the van which I would like to be able to use while driving and on hookup. The plan is to run it through a Multiplus Compact 12 2000 as it requires 230v AC - 4.2amps to run.

4.2a @ 230v = ~1000W, the Multiplus will need maybe 1250W supply when considering losses?, more losses in getting the power to the multiplus, through the leisure battery, from the charger/alternator means maybe working on the basis that 1500W is required from the 12v alternator?

125amps required from the alternator - is that a fair estimate?

I need to check the alternator I have fitted but could look at upgrading if it is not 180a+

What is the best way to ensure that the supply of power from the alternator/starter battery to the leisure battery is enough to offset the demand of the multiplus/aircon and not result in flattening the battery(s) on long journeys?

Options that might work:

• Multiple Orions in parallel - seems over the top to have 4+ orions in parallel just to achieve 120amps
• 1x BMS CL 12/100 for 100amps, in parallel with 1x orion for 130amps total - benefit of BMS included and the voltage controlled charging from the orion to help top up the Lithium battery.

Any suggestions on how to make this work are much appreciated.

Cheers,

K

Hi,

I am planning a large mobile off grid install and would like to use my 14v 185 amp

euro 5 Van alternator to charge my 2 X Pylontech US5000B useing Wakespeed WS500

I understand that A Cerbo GX is the recommended way to manage state of charge (Soc) for the whole system via VE.CAN (multi plus / Blue MPPT) as far as I can tell Wakespeed is VE.CAN compatible (via protocol translation) can talk to Cerbo GX but can they talk in a master slave config (bms to wakespeed)

in short can Cerbo GX manage a wakespeed ws500 like it manages victron chargers via VE.CAN

I may have to customize a wake speed charge profile for pylon tech cells

thanks for any input i know it a deeply technical question

Hi everyone, I have a question, I have two lead acid start batteries 750 amps each and one 200ah victron lithium house battery and would to like to charge with a 160amp smart alternator. Is there a problem with connecting the alternator to a 200 amp argofet and using it to feed direct to the start batteries from one post and the other post feeding an orion tri smart then into the lithium?

I have three Lead Acid battery banks installed on my boat (house bank, starter battery, bow thruster battery) which are charged by the alternator (let's only focus on the alternator and ignore other chargers)

All three battery banks shall be strictly separated which is done with an ArgoFET (B+ --> ArgoFET --> 3 Battery banks).

Now I want to replace the house bank by a LiFePo4 battery. In order to protect the alternator from overheating I am planning to insert an Orion Tr Smart between the ArgoFET and the LiFePo4 battery. A great solution for me, because it's a minimal change in wiring.

In other forums I've read that this solution might not work out, because the hungry LiFePo4 will draw all the current from the alternator with the Lead Acid batteries left with next to nothing. What do you guys think, is this correct?

An alternative could be to connect the starter battery directly to the alternator, and to charge the LiFePo4 and the bow thruster (LA) battery via two separate Orions from there. But shouldn't the problem with the hungry LiFePo4 occur there as well?

Are there good reasons why this is the better setup? Well, for me it means more work and more cost.

Or is there another solution that is even better?

Regards

Christian

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I would like to know if you can ipdate the VRM web based to be able to add besides solar also other energy sources in the dashboard for example I have a shunt of the engine alternator and a shunt on wind silentwind turbine. it would be great

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I am looking to install a Victron system on my RV that will be using a third-party DC-DC charger to charge 48v house batteries from the vehicle's 12v alternator. If I were to connect this charger through a dedicated BMV battery monitor (with a second one for the system's DC loads), is there any way to have one show up as an "alternator" input on the CCGX display screen?

I know I could connect it through the BMV-700 and presumably just have the CCGX show it as power flowing from the "DC loads" box to the battery. My primary concern is ease-of-use for the end user, so I would greatly appreciate any way to configure thte CCGX for this display.

Hi.

I'm putting together a camper electrical system and was wondering if anyone has had any success with charging 48V batteries off a 12V alternator using two Victron DC-DC chargers?

There are two options I'm considering,

1) Use two 12V/24V B2Bs connected with the outputs in series. I.e. the inputs are connected in parallel to the starter battery and the outputs are connected in series. Negative of one b2b and the positive of the other, connected to the leisure batteries and the other terminals connected.

2) Connect one 12V/24V B2B and one 24V/48V B2B in series. I.e. The inputs of the first B2B connected to the starter battery, the output of the first and input of the second connected to each other and the outputs of the second connected to the leisure batteries.

Would either of these options work or have any drawbacks?

Cheers,

Harry

My wife and I took the plunge and bought a 1984 Roughwater Trawler for live-aboard (Semi-retirement). It needs a major upgrade when it comes to the electrical side of things that's for sure. So far I have made a list of the upgrades I'd like to make.

MultiPlus II 12/3000

Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30A (360W) Isolated DC-DC charger

Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150|70

Lynx Distributor

Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor

Smart Battery Protect 100A

Galvanic Isolator VDI-32

Cerbo GX

GX Touch 50

6x 200W Solar Panels

3x 200Ah AGM Batteries

Now the List that i'm going by currently is from 3000w INVERTER | 400-600Ah | 400 TO 1200W SOLAR-CAMPER by Explorist.life website. I have noticed some wiring diagrams with a battery Isolator and some without when it comes to the Home battery and starter battery. With me using the Isolated Orion do I need to get the battery isolator as well or no?

Hello, I have a Smart BMS 12/200 with 100A fuse connected to the starter battery of my 2017 Mercedes Sprinter.

In theory I should be getting 90A of charge based on the 100A fuse, but I am only getting max 25% of charge current (25A). Is this something to do with the Sprinter's alternator? It seems like I should be able to pull more than 25A with the stock Sprinter alternator. Is there something in the setup that needs to be changed?

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Hi.

I am planing to set 2 Orions 30A dc/dc in parallel, to be fed with 2 70A Alternators each. I have 2 alternators already in my engine, so I need 2 orions to have an input of 60A, to my new LiFePo big bank.

I have a isolator between orions and alternators. The two Orions are feeding (out) to 800Ah LifePo bank, and there is a AGM 230Ah battery bank (bow battery) in their in (out of the islolator and in of the orions).. That's means both alternators are giving power to the 2 isolator outputs, one will be conected to both Orions, the other, to the crank batery.

So any alternator is giving power to either the crank batery or the bow battery, and with this last, both alternators are giving power to the 2 orions.

I wonder what would happen if one of the alternators could fail, so the scenario could led to have the surviving alternator of 70A, connected to 2 Orions, each one demanding at maximun 30A, plus the crank battery of course. Could this situation led to a breakdown of the remaining alternator, as both orions are demanding almost the 30A , plus crank battery, almost the maximum 70A?

thanks a lot

what i understood is this Smart BMS CL 12V 100A BMS has some kind of built in current limiting functionality based on the installed fuse.

so the question is can i use just this functionality of the device without using other bms features ?

or if i ask in another way, if i connect alternator input to an alternator and output to a battery or load, without bms bus related cables connected will it work and be able to limit the current at the output ?

if the answer is no to above question, is there a way to dummy the bms bus or a setting to turn of bms bus checking and work it without these features ?