Hi all. I've created a wiring diagram for the electrical system I am going to install in my vehicle. After sending it to a few friends for feedback, I figured it would be a good idea to try and get some feedback from people who may know more about the Victron hardware specifically.
The batteries shown in the diagram are 2x Relion RB75, but I am considering going with RB100's to have more of a buffer.
If it makes any difference, this is going in an SUV (Ford Expedition EL)
One thing I've been trying to find is a different shore charger with a charging profile specifically for lithium (not a Multiplus, too expensive). This Samlex charger only has lead-acid profiles, which the Relion batteries accept but I figured lithium specific is better.
The system is fused for more power than the batteries can deliver (I think), but I will never be using anywhere near that much so it is a non issue.
CORRECTED wiring diagram attached - May 2
Confused about how to wire a Victron 702 on a boat - here is wiring diagram along with pictures of batteries.
Part of confusion is that I have an extra wire from starter battery into panel...wiring diagram attached along with pictures of batteries and a batter switch 1 (house), 2 (start) or both that I want to work as is does now after installation.
Thanks in advance!!!!
I'm planning my electrical system for a camper van and would appreciate it of someone could check over my plan to make sure I'm not an idiot and that I'm not missing any important parts. The idea is to have a leisure battery charged by both solar and the vehicles alternator.
All parts (except van batt & alternator) will be Victron.
Am I right in that with the BMS CL and a Battery Protect on the loads I don't need any further battery management or safety devices?
Please forgive my terrible graphic design skills (F is fuse):
Salut les gens
Je suis de retour et en français cette fois, plus simple pour moi aussi !
J'ai apporté des modifications quant à la première conception postée sur forum anglais, y compris avec le matériel existant.
L'équipement existant, encadré en vert en bas à droite, est physiquement situé à l'intérieur du véhicule. Les lignes vertes partent de l'EBL119. L'EBL119 est une unité électrique d'origine et intégrée dans le véhicule. Elle est utilisée pour la distribution du courant 12V / 220V et pour la gestion d'une seule batterie de service cabine AGM ainsi que d'une batterie de démarrage. L'EBL119 n'accepte que du 12V / 220V. Je n'ai pas encore déterminé la section des câbles, mais cela dépendra aussi des longueurs, à voir sur place.
Dans mon précédent post sur forum anglais, on m'avait conseillé de passer du 12V au 24V pour tout le système. Mais au vu de l'EBL119 présent et que je veux garder pour la gestion de tous les éléments internes, frigo, éclairage, alimentation externe... je vais rester au banc 12V.
Mon objectif :
- Retirer les éléments encadrés par une ligne verte en pointillés ainsi que les lignes en pointillés verts: batterie de service et ligne directe 220V vers la distribution des prises.
- Laisser l'EBL119 en place mais en installant un interrupteur à 3 positions pour la distribution du 220V dans les 5 prises existantes du véhicule: 0- pas d'entrée de courant, 1- alimentation 220V par le convertisseur, 2- alimentation 220V de la connexion externe au véhicule.
- Recharge des batteries Lithium avec un Buck-Boost grâce à l'alternateur / Euro-6.
Reste à résoudre:
- Recharge du banc de batteries Lithium 12V par l'alimentation externe 220V de l'EBL119 ou directement par une alimentation séparée à un chargeur? Je ne connais pas encore le meilleur. Peut être avec un convertisseur / chargeur au lieu du seul convertisseur.
Ou pluôt, rester en 12V avec les batteries, comme ça, pas de souci avec l'EBL119 ( comme sur mon design joint ). Ou quand même mettre tout en 24V ( selon les commentaires apportés depuis le forum anglais ).....Argggg...je ne sais plus par où commencer ou plutôt finir...
Cela vous parle-t-il et suis-je sur la bonne voie?
Merci beaucoup pour vos fabuleux commentaires sur ce projet.
Before installing my system in my motorhome, I wanted to submit to your experiences on this installation.
The green part is the support panel. The cables pass through the rounds to pass to the rear. This forms like a door with a hinge to facilitate assembly and to carry out subsequent additions of elements. The dimensions of all elements are exact dimensions in mm. The thin cables are in 2.5mm2 or VE.Direct or USB, the medium ones in 16mm2, the batteries in 35mm2. The battery fuses are 175 ANL. The red lines are + or Line or Phase, the black lines are - or Neutral.
No cables cross and the support panel is 80 cm x 60 cm, made of fireproof wood. Did I miss something in this assembly diagram?
I thank you in advance.
I've bought most of the stuff in this setup and now want to get fuses/breakers. But wanted to run it past those in the know before buying. Any comments on the above diagram would be welcome too; sizing of the wiring to follow when i've measured. Also does anyone have any recommendations on breakers/fuses?
I have a question about possible conflicts in the use of the multiplus 1200w/12v and the 2 superpack batteries of 100A each. in a motorhome.
my consumption spreadsheet is:
|quant||Watts||volt||Amps||Amps in CC (12V)||hour||Wh||Ah|
My friend commented that: I may not be able to use them (batteries) with the Inverter, as it is very discharged for these particular batteries. Batteries have a continuous discharge capacity of 50A, while the inverter can consume up to 100A if it is fully charged. I will not damage the battery, as it can withstand a peak discharge of 100 A, but it is for a short period of time, so I will be able to find out that the internal controls will be activated and therefore will shut down the inverter. He recommends using the Smart Lithium line as an alternative and the external BMS. Is that correct? Would it be better to switch the batteries to the smart line? I chose superpack batteries because they are cheaper and have BMS included. What would be better, changing the batteries or changing the multiplus, if possible?
I'm doing the electrical project for a campervan. It is a mercedes sprinter 211 cdi van.
I made a diagram with Victron's equipment, for a moderate consumption, 2 days off-grid,
|quant||Watts||volt||Amps||Amps in CC (12V)||hour||Wh||Ah|
I wish someone could analyze the diagram and say if everything is correct.
1)I have is about the multiplus temperature sensor. Are the black and red wire connected to the negative battery terminal? Where can I monitor this measurement, is it on the BMV 712?
2) I have a question about possible conflicts in the use of the multiplus 1200w and the 2 superpack batteries of 100A each.
My friend commented that: I may not be able to use them (batteries) with the 1200w Inverter, as it is very discharged for these particular batteries. Batteries have a continuous discharge capacity of 50A, while the inverter can consume up to 100A if it is fully charged. I will not damage the battery, as it can withstand a peak discharge of 100 A, but it is for a short period of time, so I will be able to find out that the internal controls will be activated and therefore will shut down the inverter. He recommends using the Smart Lithium line as an alternative and the external BMS. Is that correct? Would it be better to switch the batteries to the smart line? I chose superpack batteries because they are cheaper and have BMS included. What would be better, changing the batteries or changing the multiplus, if possible?
I await comments
I hope this is not an inappropriate question
I'm designing a minimal off grid system for my 1989 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia campervan. I will have 2 x 75Ah SLA leisure batteries and 75Amp engine battery. I'll upgrade leisure batteries to LiFePO4 in a year or so. I'll have a single 160 Watt PV panel.
I'll use all Victron kit: MTTP solar controller, B2B charger, Lynx, Shunt and battery disconnect and 230v ac to 12v DC charger. I'll only need 500 Watt inverter to charge ebike, ideally from alternator while moving. I'll use Bluetooth to monitor.
Can you point me to a wiring diagram to help me choose exact model and calculate wiring sizes and fuses.
Any advice or suggestions very welcome.
I'm getting very confused by my internet research, by my calculations to get the max draw from the batteries to the busbar 700a to the invertor and the 12v system is roughly 600a so my cabling needs to match that the the busbar. Is this correct. So 120mm2 cable or would running two 90mm2 cables be better advised or at risk from melting...
The rest of the system is in place and just confusing myself with this last little bit... undoubtably the most important which is why I am 2nd guessing what I am researching.
If anyone can help that would be great
Hi does anybody have a wiring diagram similar to the Victron schematics thats editable i have tried some different programs but nothing looks anything near as good .
how to connect mppt 100/30 and mppt 100/50, as I have 800 watts of solar going into 4 - 120 ahr lithium batteries
I need a wiring diagram for the conversion of a van to campervan12v, with daily consumption of 1000w, which includes 2 solar panels of 115w each, a lithium battery 100Ah, connection to the alternator of the van and external connection 220v. I need a simple but reliable and economical system.
I can't find any specs on the Lynx Distributor terminal size. Can anyone help?
I have just watched a video made by Victron about a round-the-world yacht race that will take place in 2022.
At the very end of the video at 15 min 10 sec, we can see briefly the electrical schematic of the Victron installation on this boat.
Do you know where you can get this wiring diagram in pdf format? In particular this one..
I'm designing an off grid system and I'd potentially like to use a Phoenix Inverter Smart with a Victron Autotransformer. The photo below is what I want to do:
My question is where should I attach the ground relay control (shown above) and is this setup compatible with the Phoenix Inverter smart?
From the Victron Autotransformer manual (page 3), I see that,
From the Phoenix Inverter Smart manual (page 9), I see that,
Since the system is in a vehicle does that mean I simply need to connect the ground relay control wire to the same ground as the inverter?
Thanks for your help and let me know if you need any more details!
I read so much about the imporance of equal wire lengths, connector positions etcetera, that I find it a bit strange this concept does not seem to be used in the victron diagram for balancers.
So my question is: Would it be better to wire it, visualised in this picure (purple lines). So that the resistance towards all strings are more equal... Or doesn't matter in case of these balancers?
Looking forward hearing from you people.
All the best:-)
I would like to use the 3D STEP (stp) files made available here to produce 2D vector graphics that can then be used to draw schematics.
After several hours exploring and looking around, I failed to uncover something that works on the Mac.
I was able to open the STEP files on several applications:
- FreeCAD: rendering is sub-par. Could not export to SVG or any vector graphic format
- The free stp to stl converter at https://www.makexyz.com/convert/stp-to-stl hangs on "analyzing file…"
- Cheetah 3D can't import stp files, but can import these file formats: .3ds, .dae, .fbx, .obj, .sia, .stl (binary and ASCII), .jas (binary and ASCII). I'm not sure which one would work best or how to convert .stp to it
- Autodesk Fusion 360 can open the file and renders it beautifully but cannot export it to a vector format. It can however convert to a nice png and a few 3D formats
Does anybody have a working solution that would work on a Mac?
I would like to draw my system in a diagram. Any suggestions on a software, maybe OpenSource?
What do you guys use for yourself, and how does it look visually on the screen/paper - any visual examples?
I have an issue with a victron 150ah LiFePO4 (600ah bank of 4 at 12v) not balancing after several attempts. It balances after about 6 hours on hook-up via the multiplus 3000/12/120 but as soon as we boat off it won't balance the next time I charge via engine or geni/multiplus, and BMS shuts down due to one cell (always the same one) going OV at 3.76v
The guy (pro) who fitted the system (now unwell) thinks its a duff battery and has asked that I swap 1 and 4 over to see what happens (cell 4 in battery 1 is the issue)
Now having a look my black BMS cables aren't wired like anything I've seen.
All diagrams I can see the left black cable of Battery1 goes to the left BMS port; the right black cable or B1 goes to B2 left cable; B2 right to B3 left, B3 right goes to battery 4 left and lastly battery 4 right to BMS right port (a 4 battery version of this link https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/2019/07/11/new-veconfigure-manual-new-detailed-marine-schematics-and-dvcc-explained/)
Mine goes B4L-B2R; B4R-B3L; B3R-B1L; B2L-BMSL; B1R-BMSR
I can't find anything wired vaguely similar ANYWHERE. The only possible reason I can see why it was done this way is that my left hand black cable is too short to go to the BMS left port and needs the 2m victron (https://www.victronenergy.com/accessories/m8-circular-connector-male-female-3-pole-cable-2m) extension cable
Q1) is my wiring enough to mess with the cell balancing?
Q2) should I buy the extension cable and wire it as per the diagrams I can find regardless of whether I have a duff battery on not?
I'm getting a bit confused by the wiring diagram in the Orion smart manual. In this figure (most are very hard to see in the manual it show the ignition switch wired to the engine ignition power and them going to the H pin. but it also shows a bridge to the L pin. If im not mistaking adding this bridge will keep the unit always on..
I would like to have the unit charge from my house bank to my starter and bow thruster bank. I would like this charging to happen only when the engine is on.
Centaur Chargers accept a 90-400V DC input supply. The manual doesn't show how to wire a DC supply into it instead of AC?
Can anyone help?
Have a 2001 Beneteau 361 with a Xantrex Freedom 20 and failing batteries. Want to upgrade to 300-400Ah LiFePO4 batteries 12V and a Victron 3000W Multiplus.
Have repurposed one of the Victron diagrams to take a stab at the necessary components. 20201011 Beneteau 361 Electrical Schematic.pdf
Would love feedback.
The shore power is currently two 30A 120V circuits. One powers the Air Conditioning and the other goes to the Xantrex Freedom 20. Planning on having one 50A 120V (three wire) plug and a Victron Galvanic Isolator. The single shore power line would feed to the Multiplus, then split with one circuit to the Air Conditioner (would disconnect if shore power is lost) and the other to the AC panel.
The house battery bank would be 3 or 4 100Ah BattleBorn batteries that have internal BMS. Question: Does the 3000W Multiplus require 400Ah battery bank or is 300Ah okay?
The engine start battery is a FLA connected to a 100 A Balmar alternator with a MC-412 regulator. The alternator would directly charge the engine start battery.
A Renogy 50A DC-DC charger with MPPT would connect to the alternator to provide charging to the LiFePO4 battery bank. Solar is planned in the future and would connect to the Renogy DC-DC charger.
A Cerbo GX with the GX Touch 50 display will be purchased and a BMV 712 battery monitor.
Question: There are 3 switches. Wondering if they are configured correctly. The bilge pump is unswitched, as is the Renogy DC-DC charger.
Question: Did not include a Cyrix Li Charge or a Smart Battery Protect. Are these needed? The Battleborn batteries have a low voltage cutoff in the BMS.
Plan on expanding the system to integrate with a Raymarine or B&G suite, tank sensors, remote management, relays, etc.
On The easysolar 48/5000 can i connect my general switchboard directly thru 63A RCD? I already have 12 rcd s în my Main switchboard and i don t want to use the easysolar output, except for the ac2 out. Can it affect my warranty?
Just a quick question, as room constraint. Can I mount victron DC power in and DC Distributor up-side -down. Which is cable holes up rather through bottom.
Need wiring recommendations for monitoring 4 6V batteries in series/parallel (12V). This is my current arrangement.
Anyone know the biggest Wire that the size Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger Isolated could take?
i Have gauge 2Awg... Will that fix?
I am switching over from lead battery in my motorhome and installing a lithium battery. I am attempting to install the Orion-TR Smart DC-DC Charger so the vehicle alternator charges the battery while driving.
I have a few questions about installation of Lynx 1000 Distribution
Current Set Up:
I have 2 Lynx 1000 Distribution Boxes, using Shunt from Victron BMV-712
I’ve linked up the 2 Lynx boxes. I have all the items connected with proper fuses POS to POS and Neg to Neg
My questions are:
1. I assume using this diagram, my batteries are charged via the shunt?
2. Does it matter about the placement of each item where is it installed on the Lynx?
From left to right
Lynx #1 - Slot 1 is Inverter, Slot 2 is MPPT Charge Controller, Slot 3 is MPPT Charge Controller, Slot 4 is DC/DC Charger
Lynx #2 - Slot 1 is 12V Fuse block, Slot 2 is Converter Charger, Slot 3 is Junction studs, Slot 4 is Open
Thought recommendations thanks in advanced Ed,