Blue Smart Charger

Ik ben enorm victron fan. Heel mijn boot zit vol met victron zonnepanelen, mppt laders, cerbo CX, multiplus, isolators etc. Ik woon zelfs semiars bij. Maar nu is mijn vertouwen toch wel tot een dieptepunt gekomen, helaas.

Ik heb een paar maanden geleden een Victron blue smart charger (15amp, 12v) gekocht. Aangesloten op mijn parallel geschakelde leefaccu's. Dat waren dure jongens van ca 800 euro per stuk, half jaar oud. Na 2 dagen zag 1 van de huishoudaccu's er zo uit.

[image]

[image]

LEt wel, het was een nieuwe accu van nog geen half jaar oud. Inmiddels had ik de lader er al weer afgehaald. Ik heb diverse bedrijven gevraagd. Niemand kon deze explosie verklaren. De enige verklaring was dat de accu dan wellicht al iets mankeerde. Raar, maar ik kon er ook niets anders van maken.
Inmiddels wilde ik de lader gebruiken om een andere accu, de startaccu(ook 12v uiteraard) te laden, niet wetende dat de lader juist het probleem is. Ook deze accu is nog geen half jaar oud. Een dag later was deze accu ook gesneuveld! Hoe is dat nou mogelijk? Wat was de gemeenschappelijke deler? De victron lader!
Wat blijkt? De lader laadt met een veel te hoge spanning van 16.4volt!

Dit is echt niet OK! Ik zit nu met een enome schadepost, waar niemand natuurlijk voor wil opdraaien. Dit is de reden dat mijn vertrouwen in victron verdwenen is. Ik baal er echt enorm van.

Heeft iemand soortgelijke ervaringen? Zou fijn zijn als Victron zelf zou reageren. Ik stuur met alle plezier de lader naar ze op zodat ze zelf onderzoek kunnen doen.

[image]

Is it possible to put a Cyrix-ct between the house battery bank, which is charged by the Multiplus II, and the starter battery which is charged by the second charger output which is limited to 4A. This will allow the starter battery to charge faster once the house batteries are fully charged.

Thank you,

Ralph

I've searched extensively and am still confused. In this link @markus suggests "switch to charger only and now the AC shore supply will still be on and the inverter will be off, leaving ...AC shore supply available for DC charging and AC power...".

Another post from @JohannesBoonstra to this blog states "[for] ... Multi and Quattro the inverter always works (and the ACout is powered) when the unit is charging"

However, currently the experience I'm having with my multi (purchased Sep 2021) is that the ACout is only available if the unit is in the full on mode. The 'charger only' mode eliminates ACout to the receptacles. The problem with the full on mode is that if the shore power is unknowingly disconnected, the batteries drain very quickly due to the standby current draw. I did try the AES function but the modified sine wave didn't help much and the AES surge mode caused issues with the microwave.

What I want is to configure my multi so the following happens:

* When shore power is connected/ON (120V up to 15A)

Ability to use ACout to power receptacles

Inverter is off (eliminating standby current draw)

Battery is kept full or charging

* When shore power is disconnected/OFF

Battery is prevented from discharging

Inverter is off (eliminating standby current draw)

(which also means no power available at ACout power receptacles)

To do this what is the configuration I need? @markus references an article suggesting setting the multi to 'charger only' and the current to zero. Can someone clearly confirm this and whether I need to actually purchase a Digital-Multi-Control to achieve the above behavior? Are there other alternatives?

One would think the default behavior with a 'charger only' configuration would be to allow any ACinput to pass through (if present). In the 'charger only' configuration it does not make sense to me that the current limiting function should have any bearing on pass-through ... a value of zero seems to imply there is no current available/allowed for charging (i.e. the multi is equivalent to fully off). Any explanation as to why this is not the case is greatly appreciated.

thank you.

I have recently purchased a Phoenix 12/50 (1+1) 240V Smart battery charger and installed it on my boat which has 480AH of AGM batteries. I used to have a Projecta 50A charger which failed. I run the charger from either mains shore power at the marina or from a 2000W inverter generator when out sailing. After three days of charging (1 hour per day) from my original generator (a generic version of the Honda 2000i) it failed - it showed overload and stopped generating AC. However even after I disconnected the load I still couldn’t get the generator to run again. The engine runs fine but within two minutes of starting it the AC overload light comes on and the AC circuits cut out. Numerous resets and restarts don’t change this.

So I came back into port and borrowed a generator from a friend to head out again. This is a fairly new Yamaha EF2000is.

On the second day of running this generator it started labouring and the AC cut out though it didn’t show overload. Now the generator will start but runs very slowly and won’t produce power, with the engine cutting out after about two minutes.

I know this isn’t a generator trouble shooting site but my question is - could my Phoenix charger be causing these generator issues as it seems too strong a coincidence that two otherwise perfectly fine generators have failed within hours of having the Phoenix charger plugged in- after years of successfully running other chargers in this way.

Using quality clean fuel so this is not the issue. I am in Australia if this influences frequencies etc.

Would be interested in any suggestions or advice!

I have a Multiplus II 2X120 connected to a Cerbo GX + GX Touch 50. I see that I can control certain on/off functions of the Multiplus from the GX Touch 50 including (1) turning everything off; (2) having the Multiplus function as a charger only, (3) having the Multiplus function as an inverter only, and (4) turning all aspects of the Multiplus on. However, there may may reasons to have all functions of the Multiplus working, except for the battery charging function. For example, to use solar and minimize electricity consumption, or to utilize a separate charger (for example, to have less of a humming noise inside my RV).

I realize that I can turn the charger of the Multiplus on/off using my laptop connected via USB to the Multiplus using the Victron MK3-USB adapter. However, it would be really nice if the Touch 50 could turn the charger on/off without using a laptop (or without loading a new configuration file).

Does anyone know if this is possible?

Any way to make a firmware enhancement request to Victron?

Thanks for your response.

Jim

Hi all!

I have a Blue Smart AC charger 12V/13A. Initially I bought it to mount inside a mobile 1.92KWh LFP battery I've built.

But I'll be building some smaller LFP batteries for different uses.

Is there any downside to using this charger as a general use LFP charger (presuming, of course, it's within the charging specs of the cell and BMS I use)?

I need to install some batteries that work as ups. As input, we have the AC grid and as load, we power some communication antennas. The battery pack is 12V. My question is if it is possible to use a charger Blue Smart IP67 and a Phoenix Inverter for this case which is simple or it is better to use a MULTIPLUS12/500/20.

Is it possible to connect 2 or more Phoenix Smart IP43 Chargers to a single battery bank to charge a large lithium battery bank?

hi

I have a brand new multiplus 12/3000

The trickle charge output is connected to a 12 volt 140 ah battery. The voltage is 12,87

When i turn on the multiplus the trickle charge wont charge (i have a smart shunmt connected to the starter battery) and when the multiplus goes into float status also nothing will happen.

When i disconnect the trickle charge cable i measure 4 volts on the trickle charge outpul.

Is this supposed to be? Will trickle charge only charge when reached a certain battery voltage level?

Best regards and thanks in advance!

Piet

How does the 3 output behave with only one battery connected? Is the total charge output divided among the three outputs regardless? For example if only one battery is connected to the 3 output model would it get a 30 amp charge or a 10 amp charge. If the output is divided can all three outputs be hooked up to one battery?

I have 100ah Lithium battery and use 240 volt IP 65 12/15 to charge. Using Blue Tooth history, shows that Charged Amp hours (in this case) show 76. My question. Is this the amount of charge that the IP65 has just added into the battery to take it up to full charge. In other words, the battery already had 24 amp hours capacity before recharging?

Regards

Brian

I have a VE.Bus BMS and a very old Phoenix Multiplus inverter charger that doesn't have VE.Bus.

My concern is:

- how can the VE.Bus turn off the charger to protect the batteries against overvoltage when charging?

- Can I put a battery-protect in-between the phoenix and the batteries?

- Will the charger be damaged if the BMS disconnects the batteries via the battery-protect mid-charge?

- Are there any other options?

Dear you all,

I am writing to ask help for a purchase.
I own 3 AGM 100A 12V batteries, that I need to connect in series to power a DC 36V motor. I would like to recharge the batteries independently, with 3 different 12V chargers, my to obtain the best single-battery charge. I thought to use a system like the LiPo multiple cells recharger work

Which is the best option to do that? May the bpc121544002 Blue Smart 3x12V outputs charger work? I couldn’t find any useful information.

Is there any other solution? Or is it better to recharge it with a single 36V charger?

My kindest regards,

Luca Gilardi

In Germany an Off-Grid system with any kind of AC Grid connection (even totally disconnected) on the same piece of land is considered "parallel operation". If we indirectly or directly connect any "generator" (including Multiplus or Quattro regardless of configuration) to the grid we are no longer in parallel operation and a ton of rules, bureaucracy, tax, and even remote control is applicable! So long as the sun shines everything is okay, until winter...

Even with an oversized "full roof" solar array, in winter especially with EVs, the only way I see to cover the couple of months with poor sun BUT keeping ALL the electronics Off-Grid is to trickle CHARGE the batteries from the Grid for a few days/week at a time. For example, like an ad-hoc/mobile EV charger or electric oven we can draw up to 3,6kVA from a "charger" 24/7 without breaking rules to deliver 86kWH/day. Using the battery as a buffer, we can then trickle charge the EVs for a few hours each day, cover heating and entertainment requirements. On the DC side everything is perfect with Multis/Quattros even using DC power directly to reduce battery cycles.

It's important for me to keep ALL the electronics Off-Grid so that I have (almost) complete freedom to choose the power rating and technology within my system. My Grid distribution box will only contain a couple of power sockets for testing plus chargers split evenly across all phases, that's it. The energy company has nothing to say about the rest (common electrical safety respected). ;-)

[image]

Of course, the basic assumption here is "not direct or indirectly connected" regards AC/Grid power. Here we only have DC connectivity between the Grid and Off-Grid systems, technically they are only "connected" via magnetic fields.

Now the question...

The Skylla 48v 25A charger appears to be the only option (x3 <= 3.6kVA), is expensive at 900€ each as I have to buy 3 (2700€), but not very smart at all. There is no way to share temperature, voltage sense and BMS control via any VE bus (Direct or CAN). I could get a Multiplus or Quattro at similar prices but those can feed energy back to the grid which is not allowed. I guess I have to use them as dumb chargers with the remote switch/relay and shunt to fill-in for the missed capability.

The Skylla may even have to be set in power supply mode to prevent its charge logic conflicting with the BMS or much higher than spec capacity house battery? :-( I'd really like to keep a pure Victron installation but if it comes down to power supply mode then are there any 3rd party 48v chargers which integrate with VenusOS or a VE bus?

I hear the rules are very simple in the Netherlands, perhaps why Victron don't see this requirement? Then Victron don't make "Smart" 48v chargers because they feel the demand is covered by the Multiplus and Quattro? But these devices CAN return energy to the Grid, so considered "energy production" devices, which IS a problem for evermore people seeking Off-Grid as a solution to the politics or just want freedom of choice.

Or is there something I missed here... For example, is it impossible to return power via the AC2 input of a Quattro with physical/electronic limitation (it would have to be documented also with a schematic as proof for the energy provider)?

I just purchaesed a blue smart ip22 24v /8amp. I connected it up and used it fine to check if it worked an it was ok. I connected to the bluetooth and it did a firmware update. Today I wanted to use it and nothing its just dead not lights nothing. Any ideas?

Hi All.

I recently purchased the Blue Smart Charger 12 | 7 and I'm wondering if it is suitable for my use (I suppose i should have asked this before buying it). I have a 26' sail boat with a single 12V AGM battery, and currently only a DC system. All loads are very light, under 2amp draw.

I'm wondering if this charger is suitable to be installed for charging on an ongoing basis when hooked up to shore power? and also the charger comes with a 3 prong AC plug for input, can this plug be stripped and wired into an AC panel as i've planned in my wiring diagram?

Appreciate anyone's input. Thank you

[image]

I am charging a lifep04 280ah 14.4v battery. The charger is only pumping out 2.9 amps and at this rate it will take 26 HOURS to charge. The battery is at 13.6v so I am confused as to why this 25amp charger is not putting the power to the battery. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Matt

[image]

I have a similar question to this original post, but with some more details to provide. My 100AH AGM battery is a Fusion CBC12V100AH and includes the following information printed on it regarding constant voltage charging:

Standby Use (Float Charge): 13.5~13.8 Volts @ 25C
Cyclic Use: 14.4~15.0 Volts @ 25C
Max Charging Current: 30A

Based on that information when the battery has been moderately discharged I would have thought that using Blue Smart IP65 Charger it would be appropriate to use "high" mode rather than "normal". What is the recommended mode for that information?

Hi I can't connect my blue tooth phone to the inverter and noticed the blue tooth symbol is missing on the display How to I fix this

Specifically, can I stack two 24V chargers in a 48V bank made from eight 6V batteries in series? There would need to be DC ground isolation from both the AC line and safety ground.

Hello. I am new to the community and Victron products in general. I currently have a Phoenix 12/50 charger (120V) that is brand new purchased January 2022. Sorry, I don't have the S/N handy. I also plan to purchase a MultiPlus 3000 inverter charger soon and will add solar in the future. This is a marine install with 3 battery banks. I will use the Phoenix for the 2 smaller banks and the MultiPlus for the large house bank. I would like to connect all these to a Cerbo GX w/ a Touch 50 panel.

I am finding it challenging to determine if the Phoenix charger will communicate with the Cerbo GX. I know the Multi will and am sure the future solar will but the Phoenix is a mystery.

Can anyone help me out>

Best

Mascot

Hi there,
Is there a leakage current when connecting this cable when it is not in use?   Just the cable ist Connect without charger 
cable:
M6 / M8 cable lug connector without fuse accessory for the Blue Smart IP65 charger with DC connection.

Many Thanks For info
greeting

I am interested in purchasing Victron Blue Smart IP65, which is explained in the manual:
https://www.victronenergy.pl/upload/documents/Folder-A5-Blue-Smart-IP65-Charger-230V_PL_web.pdf

The table recommends 5A for "classic" and 15A for "modern" (while limiting batteries to 50-150 Ah). I have a hybrid car, but a rather old type battery - calcium 45Ah (originally installed at the Toyota factory, 2021).

Does the above limitation preclude my battery? (45 <50, which is given here as a minimum)

I mention that I want to charge without disconnecting the battery from the system.

Connecting Victron 200AH Lithium battery with Smart BMS 12/200 to existing Magnum charger/inverter & Magnum ARC50 Remote Control in marine system with alternator and starter battery. According to the smart BMS literature, I need the Cyrix-Li-Charge to protect from overcharging the battery.

My question is, doesn't the BMS disconnect the battery from being overcharged? Also, doesn't the Magnum charger controller stop the charger from overcharging the battery? Just confused how the Li-Charge fits within the BMS and the Charger controller.

Thanks!

Does anyone know what is the reverse current on the 12V 20A and 30A Centaur chargers when the mains supply is not available? Can it drain an AGM battery in a short time?

[image]

Hey there,I wanted to ask, why the Victron App displays odd voltages at the vStart and vEnd readings. The battery in the screenshot was resting for minimum 30 Minutes, at the vStart I got 13,xx V and still it was possible to load in >10Ah? Literally no one could explain why there is a huge difference between vStart in the App and the actual voltage of the battery. I tried it with 3 different AGM-batteries from 2 cars and still, I always got strange readings on vStart.

The second thing is: Am I correct that vEnd is measured right after absorption? Isnt it so that the batt needs to rest for 10-15 min after loading to show the actual voltage?

Hello,

Recent fan and total newbie.

I am thinking of a 48V back up system with grid charging for my home power few lights and security system.

When it comes to chargers I found few Victron chargers with 24V ,three isolated outputs. Is it possible to combine the isolated output in series to make a 48V charger? I am looking at

PHOENIX smart IP43

SKYLLA IP 65.

To be future proof I will need Li Battery charge option hence cant use Skylla TG only option with 48V.

Thank you.

I have a 12/30 3 output blue smart charger that’s hooked up to my leisure and starter batteries in my campervan.
After a couple of days away I plugged in the charger and I’m seeing this spikes in the charging voltage that I’ve not seen before.

Is it anything to worry about? What’s causing them?

[image]

Trying to avoid installing a generator transfer switch.

In the event of low battery (under 20%) AND grid failure can I use a small generator to charge the batteries with an external stand alone "Blue Smart Charger" while still utilizing the normal capability of the Multiplus II inverter? When I say normal I mean this is a small cabin with a typical full load of about 350 watts. 900W microwave on occasion.

What if the power comes back on while charging? Should the main breaker be turned off before attempting this?

What about solar charging at the same time? Is that going to be ok?

Grid connected ESS with the following equipment.

Cerbo GX
MultiPlus-II 12/3000/120-50 120/240V
BMV-712 Smart
SmartSolar Charger MPPT 100/20 48V

Hello, friends. Need advice.

I have an motorhome with "Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart 12/12V 30A DC-DC Isolated Charger" to charge my house batteries. But sometimes i will need to feed the starting battery a few amps from the house battery (listening to radio with engine off, using other accessories).

Is there a way for my isolated charger to short input and output? If not, would it be ok to short it manually though the switch?