[image]Photos-001.zipwhen I flip the 20A breaker to use AC outlet, its tripoping something in the inverter AND blowing the 60A fuse on the lynx bus bar... 2x times now. Ive checked coinnections, AC outto panel, line 1 to red hot and and nuetral to panel common black, grounded to frame,
Despite the wiring unlimited booklet saying that “All our manuals recommend the battery cable size (and fuse size) that needs to be used for the product.”, the Multiplus 12/800/35 manual sadly doesn’t.
It does say that I should use 25mm sq cable for runs less than 5m, but doesn’t say which fuse size I should use to protect it.
I’m also a little surprised that the manual recommends 25mm sq cable for a 12V device that can pull 1600W?
The internal fuse is 150A.
Am I getting confused that I need a fuse to protect 25mm sq cable that seems to me will easily blow if the unit works hard?
according to the datasheet of the Smart Solar MPPT 75|10 it should draw around 10mA when not charging*. However I just measured my unit with 12V applied at the battery terminal and it draws arround 30..35 mA which is more than factor 3 and too much for my application.
Is my unit faulty or is the data sheet made out of fantasy values when the price is 10 times that of units where I would expect such inconsistencies?
Thanks for any clarification!
My 2016 Lincoln MKX has 20A fuses on the 12v power plugs. Power plugs (cigarette lighters) typically can handle 15A (12V x 15A) about 180W. Theoretically, if I don't plug more than say 125W load into the inverter it should work at least I was hoping it would. I have both an in car (less than 125W) and direct to battery (full 500W use cases).
Unfortunately, when I tried this my 20A fuse popped with out anything plugged in the inverter.
Is there any way to get the in car use case to work?
morning. I went from an Epever tracer 3210AN mppt controller to a smartsolar victron in my solar RV system. Basically to have an all victronenergy system because I already had some victron components. But I was happy with the quality of the Epever controller for the price. Previously I had the whole 12v line of the rv controlled by the LOAD epever tracer output. This allowed me to have many protections integrated in the Epever controller electronics (overdischarge, overload, short circuit etc etc). But above all the reading of the 12v consumption in amperes and amperhours on the Epever controller. This was separate from the Phoenix inverter consumption, which I see on the victron smartshuunt. The smart solar controller does not have all these possibilities because it does not have a real load output with integrated schunt. What do you recommend to return to having electronic protections on the 12v line? Buy a victron smart battery protect that does everything by itself, a victron battery protect controlled by the virtual load, or a solid state relay controlled by the virtual load? How can I also retrieve the consumption reading of the 12v line without buying a second smartshuunt (too expensive at the moment for me)? Thanks
i have connected the load via an anderson meter to a spare 130A/H lead carbon battery that conveniently fits in an unused cupboard with a 450w 12 v inverter i use to charge my computer, ebike and golf battery... these photos were of todays 'test' without load on the inverter... If this works the biggest load would be a small compressor freezer 3.2amp... Panels are 2 x 140w [more than 10 years old] and batteries 2 X 240A/H lead acid [5 years and were struggling before installing a dc/dc engine battery charger
... this was not a great sunshine day....both app and meter showing similar amps and volts... what will the max voltage be from the load???
extra charging from motor = 50 amps to house batteries
mir ist aufgefallen, dass aus dem Netz Leistung in den Akku geht... ist das möglich oder ist das nur graphisch unglücklich gelöst.
We live in a Skoolie… System is currently connected to shore power - our system has 110v fridge which pulls 400w per 24hours and 12v lights - couple plugs to charge our phones/iPads - we use way less currently than the system is set up for. But we plan to add a heat/ac in the future.
Inverter is in absorption mode - set to 8 hour time, is that appropriate?
We have 8 -270ah lifePo4 wired in series to create 24v battery
We got a dc ripple alert and the inverter shut off. We turned it back on then off and on again based on the basic troubleshooting.
Our whole system is the Bluetooth connection systems from victron -
It says charged to 100% - 26.6v -
We’ve only had the system up and running for 2 days.
Could really use some insight. Just really confused after two days of it working perfectly.
How large a inverter would be necessary to run a 1000W single phase 230V motor?
Considering a multiplus 12/1600/70
Is that a sufficient size?
[image]I need to know Power/Current/Voltage at the AC port of the inverter proper ( magenta marker).
By looking at real data, it seems that Pinv = PactiveIn - Pout
Can anybody confirm that?
newbie question: can a Victron inverter/ charger control RCBOs during power outages?
Here's the scenario I'm thinking about: during a power cut the Victron inverter can isolate circuits that are meant to be power by the grid while supplying power to other circuits. This can prevent saturating the inverter/ battery during power outages while still contributing to energy consumption during normal operation. I hope I make sense :)
I want to make a 12v battery system, charged from PV via MPPT (two Panels in series 400W each).
The idea is to use is in case of a blackout for home appliances like fridge, TV ....
The system is based on folowing components:
- Victron LYNX Dist.
- Enclosed DC 16A Switch - DC Disconnect (PV Disconnect from MPPT)
- Victron smart shunt
- Victron MPPT 150/70 charge conntroller
- Victron 100A smart BP.
- Victron ON/OFF Master Battery Switch (275A)
- DIY lifepo4 batteries with BMS (JBD or JK BMS)
- 2000W DC-AC(230V) Inverter with remote switch (non Victron)
Can I use the BP in that constellation ? Or should I avoid using the component ?
Generally, the BMS has the role of keeping the battery status under the eye (all 4 cells individually with balance option) so in case of any under voltage of any cell it will cut off the "-" wire which then leads to a system shutdown (load disconnect).
My question are:
- what happens with the MPPT controller if the battery gets disconnected and the Solar PV are still providing power to the component ?
- how to connect the BP in such a system - schematic would be great !?
- should I connect the Inverter directly to the battery via LYNX Dist (with fuse of course)?
I have read some posts on the internet which say that the BP should not be connected directly to the inverter (inline) because of an inrush current. Can someone please explain how should this be done properly !
If this is the case the BP is just useless in my case or am I missing here something ?
I've got a SmartShunt and SmartSolar charge controller that I dearly love - used to have a Renogy charger controller but the Blue Tooth connectivity was funky. Well worth the $$ to upgrade to Victron. I've recently installed a Renogy 2KW inverter but the SmartShunt doesn't see the inverter load when it's turned on. I assume that I can install a second SmartShunt on the inverter minus leg and get visibility into that load. Is that the best approach to this?
I have a mobile (Caravan) system that is Lithium based but I DO NOT have Victron Lithium batteries. My batteries also do not have an accessible BMS. They are a Renogy 170 AH lithium batteries.
My system is charged via a Victron 100/50 Smart Solar MPPT and a Victron 30 amp AC charger. I also have fitted a BMV712, smart battery sense and a 65 amp Smart Battery Protect.
I am about to install a NON Victron Inverter 2800/5600 watts to see how much I can do via 240v instead of gas. Induction cooking etc.
my question is about how I best protect my batteries from over discharge whilst using the inverter.
I have read that you should not use a Smart Battery Protect on an inverter. Is this correct?
if you can then the 220 amp model it may be a bit small (2640 watts).
Can I use the BMV712 to activate a relay to disconnect the inverter?
Are there any other alternatives?
I have phoenix smart inverter that seem to draw between 0-18w when switched on but NOT inverting. It's very intermittent and no pattern to it - if it was a 'standby mode' wouldn't it be more consistent? Perhaps it's an intermittent cooling fan or something? Any suggestions?