Hi Victron community, I have one question regarding a couple Victron / DIY LFP pack with Seplos BMS.

If it is just to say that Seplos is not in Victron's compatibility list for BMS, you can save your time and are not forced to participate to this thread ;)

I use this BMS (I have 4 of them) and it is working fine, but, as there is a "but", a big one, I discovered that using only 1 battery pack (14kWh / 200A BMS) with a 5kVA Multiplus 2 doen't allow it to start as the transient current is too high for the BMS (fixed values in the BMS are 250A for 30mS, not changeable if you don't want to damage your hardware and loose the warranty).

Is there a known solution to limit the starting current on the Victron side?

Else anyone intending using those BMS in a Victron environement must pay attention to this "detail" and better find another model if they don't intend to have 2 or more battery pack.

I had installed a solar system using the Victron inverter a couple of months ago, whilst I appreciate it's early days and we are into the autumn it is currently generating about 8.5 kWh per day, of which 2 kwh is used to power the inverter and/or "lost" in the conversion from DC to AC – is it about right?

The manual says maximum gauge wire is 35mm2 or 2awg ? Send a little small for peak power 2400w ? The manual also doesn't have any info on wire fuse size? Do I fuse the wire with 200A (for 2400w) or 100A (for continuous 1200w) ? I emailed Victron North America distributor but did not get any response.

Help please,

Given energy costs, in the UK lots of retailers are now selling domestic 'on-grid storage and self-consumption' kits "for storing cheap night-time energy (off-peak tariffs e.g. Octopus) for use during the day", e.g. a kit with Multiplus II 48/5000/70-50 and 14kWh of batteries, "more battery modules can be added at any time", and PV at later date - https://www.bimblesolar.com/ongrid/self-consumption/5kVA-On-grid-Victron-ESS-14kwh

With 14kWh of 6000 cycle, 95% DOD batteries I'm expecting to be able to store all my elec need at night (@ 7p/kWh) and not use any grid elec in the day (@ 47p/kWh). When we add solar PV, 5kWp will mean we are mostly self-sufficient for 5 months of the year (according to https://re.jrc.ec.europa.eu/pvg_tools/en/tools.html ). But, with a 4kw inverter the above Multiplus seems underrated for 14kWh of batteries. We typically use 7Kwh night and 7kWh day but with occasional peak demand of 8kW (cooking, kettle etc). The expectation was to have all loads via the inverter - 'critical' on AC out 1 - otherwise the system doesn't pay for itself. Also we're rural and have frequent, short duration power outages and thus need the UPS functionality. Am I misunderstanding something here? I'm assuming that, in the day, all power needs can be supplied by the batteries and thus via the inverter and thus the 4kW inverter seems wrongly matched with the 14kWh batteries?

Thanks

My new multiplus inverter/charger draws up to 9 amps (110 watts) under NO LOAD condition. When the inverter is first activated, it draws 2.2 amps. Then after two or three minutes, the unit begins to buzz and the current gradually ramps up to 7-9 amps (depending on how long I let it run.) I've measured this with my boats battery monitor and with a clamp-on meter directly at the I/C. I've removed all external wiring except the I/C and the battery, connected by short, new cables. The result is the same. Some other posts describe no-load currents of up to 0.9 amps, but this is an order of magnitude larger. Certainly seems like a defective unit to me, but is there any way it could be mis-configured to produce this result? (Configured by the dealer.)

I'm curious to see specific efficiency curves for various Victron inverters I'm looking at, but my searching has been fruitless. I have a 24v system and am looking for an inverter that needs to run only two loads at 220v: one is 30w constant, the other is intermittent and will peak somewhere around 776w. My concern is that the constant 30w load may fall in the abysmal range of the efficiency curve for many inverters. I don't see any way to avoid this, but I would like a rough number of what efficiency I might expect in this scenario.

I have bought a Victron Phoenix 24/500 and during testing stage, I found that its performance is lower than specified. So far I have observed the following:

1) Idle load 10-11W > 6.5W from specs.

2) Measured efficiency is peaking at 87% using loads with power factor of 0.85-0.9, instead of 90% as specified.

3) Inverter entered what appears to be overload protection when connected a hairdryer with a measured power of 335W (<400 specified) and a power factor of 0.9, however it was able to sustain a 400W load composed of 100W electronics and a 300W lamp, having a power factor that was again ~0.9.

4) Not able to power the starting phase of a refrigerator compressor which has a continuous power requirements of 60 to 80W and a peak during startup of ~500-700W.

I understand that first 2 points could have their root in incorrect datasheets, case in which a correct one would be appreciated. Honestly, if a producer writes 6.5W idle power and I measure 10, I am wondering what else is not true in the datasheet. However points 3 & 4 look to be some issues, specially 3 . Any advice? or there are some overly aggressive protections built in?

Looking for suggestions-

We have a Kohler 8k marine genset and while running our 16k dometic AC pack, (when at anchor,) i notice that each time the compressor kicks on, our Victron touch screen GUI indicates that our shorepower/Genset feed drops out for about 10 seconds and then comes back online.

The shorepower and/or generator feeds go thought the Victron Multuplus 3k Inverter/Charger as it normally is designed..

This "trip" seems to follow when the compressor cycles from off to on.

Is this an indication that the capacitors on out genset are going out?

Not really sure if these capacitors are used in a way to buffer a spike or not.

I'm not really to sure of I'm close on my thought pattern here but just wanted to ask for suggestions.

Would be glad to hear ideas but I do have the Dynamic Current LImiter set to On and it makes no difference.

Maybe its the water pump cycling on that doing this?

PS, Our Air Conditioning system is 240vac

Appreciate your ideas...

RV Upgrade; The coach has on onboard 4kw generator that will be used to charge the batteries in addition to the 950w solar panel array.

I am going to be running 4x 12.8v 200ah lithium batteries and deciding whether to run as 24v paired with a 24/5000 Quattro or run as 12v paired with 12/3000 Multiplus.

If I go the 24/5000 route I am having the panel upgraded from 30amp to 50amp. The quatrro has a much beefier charger in it and will almost cut charging time in half compared to the Multi-plus so I am leaning that direction.

Other than faster charging and additional power headroom, what else am I not considering as potential downsides or upsides to the 24/5000 setup vs the 12/3000 setup?

Hi everyone,

I am a very happy owner of a VE Phoenix inverter 12/500, attached to my solar off-grid system.

I'm using the most efficient refrigerator on the market, the Liebherr TP 1720 which averages to a mind blowing 7W power consumption which for a inner size of 145 liter is just insanely low.

While running the inverter in always ON mode everything works great and this inverter can easily handle the inrush current required, and eventually I am averaging at 11-12W consumption with the overall system, which I really can't complain about.

However, considering that the ECO mode could potentially cut another 5-6W to the above figure it would be great to take advantage of it. Unfortunately it doesn't seems to work with my setup.

When I set this mode, if the refrigerator is cold enough and doesn't require the compressor to start everything runs fine, but as soon as the refrigerator needs to turn on I get an error on the smartphone app related to something like "HIGH AC output alarm". Not sure what is the reason since I can't find much documentation on this error. All I can say is that I just have the refrigerator connected (with its original cable) to the inverter's AC output and nothing else.

When I get this error I just need to switch (on the phone app) to OFF and then to ON and the compressor starts just fine. I'm puzzled about the possible cause.

Concurrently I was just wondering whether the pulse sent in the ECO mode is long enough to allow the fridge's electronics to figure out whether it needs more power or not.

No matter what, to me it would be really great if the pulse duration could be configurable within the app, just like the interval between pulses.

I really would appreciate very much is VE could elaborate more on this topic.

Thank you very so much in advance for an answer and... for making such great products!!

(Just as a curiosity this above mentioned fridge uses a SECOP HXD30AA compressor)

Could anyone please assist with the following:

My goal is for the BP unit to control the on / off switch of my inverter remotely, hence by under voltage remote 'off' and once the voltage has been restored, the [inverter] remote is switched to 'on'.

Point #4 of the BP's instructions advise against disconnecting higher power DC so the 'OUT' terminal is not used.

If I have understood correctly, I will need to use a relay in a 'normally closed' position thereby allowing the [inverter] remote to be active and the inverter will be 'on'.

Consequently, in the event of under voltage, given I have selected programme 'b', the BP will trigger the relay to 'open' thereby triggering the [inverter] remote and inverter itself to 'off'.

Where the instructions leave me somewhat unsure is by under voltage restart: will the voltage restoration trigger the relay to the 'normally closed position' thereby activating the remote and switching the inverter to 'on'?

Most grateful for any ideas or suggestions.
Best regards

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Photos-001.zipwhen I flip the 20A breaker to use AC outlet, its tripoping something in the inverter AND blowing the 60A fuse on the lynx bus bar... 2x times now. Ive checked coinnections, AC outto panel, line 1 to red hot and and nuetral to panel common black, grounded to frame,

Despite the wiring unlimited booklet saying that “All our manuals recommend the battery cable size (and fuse size) that needs to be used for the product.”, the Multiplus 12/800/35 manual sadly doesn’t.

It does say that I should use 25mm sq cable for runs less than 5m, but doesn’t say which fuse size I should use to protect it.

I’m also a little surprised that the manual recommends 25mm sq cable for a 12V device that can pull 1600W?

The internal fuse is 150A.

Am I getting confused that I need a fuse to protect 25mm sq cable that seems to me will easily blow if the unit works hard?

Hello,

according to the datasheet of the Smart Solar MPPT 75|10 it should draw around 10mA when not charging*. However I just measured my unit with 12V applied at the battery terminal and it draws arround 30..35 mA which is more than factor 3 and too much for my application.

Is my unit faulty or is the data sheet made out of fantasy values when the price is 10 times that of units where I would expect such inconsistencies?

Thanks for any clarification!

*) https://www.victronenergy.de/upload/documents/Datasheet-SmartSolar-charge-controller-MPPT-75-10,-75-15,-100-15,-100-20_48V-DE.pdf

Hi,

My 2016 Lincoln MKX has 20A fuses on the 12v power plugs. Power plugs (cigarette lighters) typically can handle 15A (12V x 15A) about 180W. Theoretically, if I don't plug more than say 125W load into the inverter it should work at least I was hoping it would. I have both an in car (less than 125W) and direct to battery (full 500W use cases).

Unfortunately, when I tried this my 20A fuse popped with out anything plugged in the inverter.

Is there any way to get the in car use case to work?

Thanks! Kurt