voltage

Hi there,

Kindy please can I get some clarification, I have to integrate a lithium [Plylontech] system with an existing off-grid SLA system, there's a few challenges on the PV side but I'm largely confident I've solved them and so my main question is coupling the Growatt 5000ES off-grid inverter to the Multiplus-II,

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Question: What's the most practical option here to connect the Growatt and Victron?,

My gut feel is connect it [Growatt] to the AC In and I'll run the Gen into the AC Input on the Growatt.

The other option I see is connecting the Growatt to the AC OUT (1 or 2) but I need clarification on how the Multiplus will handle grid forming with a fixed frequency/voltage from the off-grid Growatt.

Also if anyone has any tips on this install, I'm keen to hear them.

Any questions let me know,

Thanks in advance!

Hi all. I am having trouble with my Victron Inverter/Charger in my new electrical setup. My battery bank is showing a voltage of 13.2 all along the terminals. I have 4/0 cables going from my lynx distributor to my inverter/charger along with the 400amp fuse. I have read the Victron Manual front to back. The problem is that when I power my system on (master switch), nothing happens. My DC power doesn't work, my battery monitor, solar charge controller, NOTHING powers on. The voltage drops at the battery terminals and ALL other connection points to 2.37 volts!! When I disconnect the inverter cables from the lynx, everything works and voltage is consistent with the battery 13.2V... I have DC power and my solar and everything works beautifully (which is a relief since it's a new setup). But I'm beyond frustrated with the inverter charger.. I have tested the cables and I've even made new ones and swapped them out because my first thought was faulty crimps. I've tried everything. I cannot find an answer after days of "google" research in addition to the manual. Now I'm beginning to think there's something wrong with the inverter? It's brand new and has not powered on.. the lights won't flicker or anything. I have a shore power plug wired to it with nothing plugged and a breaker box with the main breaker turned off. I have thought about trying to plug into shore power, but I'm nervous about doing that. PLEASE can someone help me figure out what's going on, it's driving me crazy.

There's a picture of my system below but note that I've added a second battery since that photo was taken thinking that my battery bank could be the issue. I'm wondering if it has something to do with the BMS, perhaps my batteries aren't charged enough to power the load? How much power does the Multiplus require to turn on? I am getting 13.2V at the terminals though indicating a 70% or so SOC.. but the batteries weren't "resting" for long when I checked that voltage with my multimeter. My SOC on my Victron shunt isn't accurate yet since I just set up my system and haven't had a full charge yet. But I would think that the Victron would still turn on?? I'm going to charge the batteries fully tomorrow to see if that works, but I doubt it at this point.

Here are some specs of my solar electrical system in my camper van:

Victron Multiplus 12V 3000 Multiplus inverter/charger

2x206AH SOK lithium batteries

2x Victron lynx distributor (bus bar system)

1 Victron Orion 30amp DC-DC charger

600 Watts of solar panels

60 MPPT Renogy Solar Charge Controller

Victron SmartShunt

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I've noticed that my quattro lowers voltage of the system, without apparent reason.

Case - Grid with 5kw connected to AC IN 1. Fronius + house loads connected on AC OUT 1 (ESS config). For some reason, i can't get the batteries to charge with excess, as they should, so I manually switch "keep batteries charged" in the evening. Even if I have 1kwh charge on the batteries, the grid voltage drops to ~180-185v and during evening my fronius disconnects.

If I add 2-3 kwh loads, but not trough the quattro, the voltage only drops to 195v (from 205-210v).

My solar charge controller is showing float and that my lithium 300ah battery is at 14.6 volts but my victron 712 battery monitor is showing 13.14 volts. I just setup this entire system and I’m not sure why the charge controller is entering this float when the battery is not fully charged.

Charge controller is victron 150/70

I also would like to know the appropriate settings for bulk/absorption, equalization if possible

(700 watts of solar on the roof)

I am on a sailboat and we have four 100 Amph AGM batteries that are powered by six solar panels and alternators on the Diesel engines. That butteries are less than 5 years old. I did not install the system and am beginning to learn how it works. A Phoenix Multiplus controls the charging input. Right now the BMV 501 meter says the batteries are at 97% but voltage says 11.0V. A multimeter reading at the battery bank shows a reading of 13.0V under no charge/discharge condition. Can anyone help me start to investigate what’s going on? Thanks Rob.

Hi I'm getting hIgh Voltage warnings on the CCGX. I understand the cells need to internally balance as it's a new system. They are, slowly, day by day.

My issue is that I have set the DVCC to 53.2V to mitigate the alarms and to allow the cells to balance but it's not stoping the alarm!.

Any ideas?

The alarms currently trigger just above 52V.

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I have been fighting with this Orion TR Smart for a while now (basically since i purchased it) as it has never kept the auxiliary battery charged since it was purchased and finally pulled it all out to check what's going on.

What I have found is that no matter what the app says (Bulk Charge, Float Charge or even if in Power Supply Mode), it never outputs more than around 1.7-2.1v. LED's are normal and correspond to charge modes.

• Checked input voltage at Cable - 14.14v
• Checked input voltage at Orion - 14.14v
• Checked output without Battery plugged in (Charger Mode) : 1.7-2.1v
• Checked output with Battery Plugged in (Charger Mode) : 12.1V (battery voltage, not charging)
• Checked output without Battery plugged in (Power Supply Mode) : 1.7-2.1v
• Checked output with Battery Plugged in (Power Supply Mode) : 12.1V (battery voltage, not charging)
• Vehicle running for 20+ minutes. Still 0 output
• Tried various battery/shutdown settings - same result

Anyone got any suggestions?

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I'm building a portable-ish system with a MultiPlus 24/3000. The main switch on the MultiPlus will not be easily accessible. I'll have the positive line run from the battery thru a disconnect switch on its way to the MultiPlus. The negative directly from battery to MultiPlus. The disconnect switch will be in the OFF position for weeks at a time.

I'm going to hook up a separate smaller cable to the voltage sense terminals on the MultiPlus. I am planning on hooking the voltage sense cable directly to the battery terminals (not the disconnect switch) but I want to know if it is ok to leave the disconnect off while the voltage sense cable is connected.

Is there a problem with this? Is there a little current flowing on the voltage sense cable even with the disconnect switch OFF? If so, how much?

System Description on sailboat:

• Isolation Transformer 3600VA
• Multiplus 24/300/70
• Shore power 120V (nominal)
• System Power 220V (nominal)

The only load on the transformer is the Multiplus.

We currently are in a location where the lines voltage is running right at the very top of the USA grid specification (127V). Coming out of the transformer we have 272V. This is over the maximum high voltage cutoff for the Multiplus (270V), so it stays in "Inverting" mode.

My understanding is that applying a load on the transformer output will drop the voltage to something like (127*2*1.05)= 267V which is still high, but would allow the Multiplus to make its line connection and charge our batteries and pass through AC power. Unfortunately, without extensive rewiring there is no way to apply a non-voltage sensitive load to the transformer.

Is there any other way to make this connection work? I have reviewed previous posts on similar issues, and it seems the answer is "no," but maybe something specific to my situation is possible? It frustrating to have to run the generator while shore power is available, but just 1 or 2 Volts too high (but still within local grid power specification!)

I appreciate that the usual issue with marina shore power is LOW voltage and this might be the reason for the 5% voltage boost out of the isolation transformer, but this is not the first time we have had this issue and the high voltage problem has been much more often the issue for us.

Hi

On the MPPT RS450, can the DC input be hocked up in series? If you have a string with 8 and 4 modules, 12 are too high voltage. But if you can but MPPT1 in series with MPPT2 it would work. Does someone know if that is possible?

thx

I’m experiencing voltage drift between my two 12V LifePo4 batteries wired in Series for 24V that I’m trying to address. When fully charged, there is a .20V deviation in resting voltage. This after charging each individually to within .01V to re-sync then letting them go through a daily solar charge cycle.

My questions are:

1. If my batteries are spaced apart (with all wire runs being of equal gauge and length) but with the shunt located nearer to one of the batteries, will that battery measure lower in voltage?

2. If I install a battery balancer, are there any special wiring considerations that need to be made with regard to the BMV and shunt?

3. I assume with the Battery Balancer it is also important to make sure all wiring is equal? Since my batteries are separated, the challenging part is tying into a mid-point between the batteries. The only real way I could do this is to run separate wires from each batteries terminal to the Balancer to supply the 0V terminal, and then wire the 24V and Common terminals to the positive/neg supply side of my DPDT Master Power switch. I realize the longer the wire runs the less accurate the Voltage value readings will be from the Balancer, but I think it will still work provided it sees more than 27.3V and measures enough deviation to activate.

Hi , this is getting very annoying now, second year in a row. Two 48/100/70 in parallel , running a few campsite plugins, during summer and full light in uk no problems with judging battery soc and voltage, however at this time of year the soc is completely out, the batterrry voltage shutdown is happening at weird times and nothing makes sense with battery voltage , I have to carefully manage soc , battery vilatage and generator starts to save the system. Why is soc not calculating the actual system soc? I looked at a chart and it was 50 percent out, of a standard 12v x4 battery bank average soc.. any ideas ??

HI All.

Not 100% sue that anything is wrong as such.. but haven noticed since turning my engel fridge off from mains (as its main priority and on an inverted socket) so it is on DC only, that the charge voltage is fairly unsteady in 'float' mode.

Set up is 326ah CALB celled (2p4s) battery - Daly Smart BMS - 250a Raspberry pi 3b+ running Venus OS 2.70~15 - BMV700 connected via victron VE Direct to USB cable, then the multiplus.

Set up is on shore power bulk to 14.2, absorption for as short as possible,. float at 13.5. DVCC Shared Voltage sense is ON

The thing I have noticed is that when the fridge kicks in, the voltage drops eventually 0.1v (over a few minutes) to 13.4v, the multiplus then wakes up and starts adding current, eventually overshooting 13.5v to 13.65, then dropping down slowly again.. and the process continues.

Prior to having the fridge on DC i had a steady draw of about 2.4amps, it took a while to settle but the charge voltage eventually settled at 13.5 and held...

I'm assuming that this is maybe by design... i just dont like the overshoot too much, am I missing a setting somewhere that tells the MP when to kick in (ie 0.1v below and stop 0.1v above?)

Steve

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Hi,

if I disconnect the 48VDC supply voltage (Pylontech battery stack) to the Victron MP II, will it immediately turn off when there is still a connection to AC IN / Grid 230VAC? I want to disconnect my battery stack to top balance it - at the moment my setup passes main parts of my installation on L1 through AC Out 1 of MP II. I can switch it back to grid supply (through a emergency power switch) but I do no want to swich my consumer devices off.

Thanks in advance

Hi there

I built a stand alone system consisting of 1Kwp of solar panels, a Victor mppt charge controller, a Multiplus II and a 16s 48v 176Ah lithium battery pack.

the system has been running for about 4 months and is working great and I'm really happy.

In the last days I tried to connect a Honda ex4000s generator, unfortunately initially the system did not accept it, and I had to change the software settings.

I disabled the UPS function, enabled the dynamic load limiter and enabled the WEAK Ac input.

With all these values set, the multiplus was able to recognize the generator and charge the batteries with a current of 20A.

On the CCGX, however, were not shown the watts entered into the system by the generator and Ac loads, for both loads were shown 0w, while in the detail of the battery was shown + 1000w approx. (This is the first problem)

The real problem is that after a few minutes that the generator is on and the batteries are charging the multiplus turns off and then back on without recognizing the current of the generator and taking the current for the loads from the battery.

I have noticed that the voltage of the batteries during charging varies from 54 to 57V in a few seconds oscillating up and down just before shutting down. It does not do this initially, initially the voltage rises smoothly and slowly. However, it does not report a DC Voltage ripple alarm.

I also noticed that the voltage and frequency of the generator varies suddenly before shutting down. The voltage goes from 215v (strange because the generator output is 230v) to 236v while the frequency goes from 50hz to 52.8hz after which the multiplus II shuts down.

Another thing I noticed is that the status of the charger doesn't reflect the state of charge it should have, even if the batteries are discharged, the "Absorption" function comes on after a few seconds instead of starting in "Bulk".

The change in voltage and frequency could be the change in load, but why is the multiplus shutting down ? With the current settings according to the Victron manual the multiplus should be compatible with any generator, simply having less efficiency.....

All connections have been checked and are all tight, even the cable sections have been checked.


Thanks in advance for your help

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I had my BMV712 running for some weeks now. This weekend during dischcharge, the main battery low voltage alarm suddenly triggered. The main voltage was displayed as 0.02v.

Link to screenshot: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9BJSLhVN2tJe5Yvk6

this was during normal operation of our camping car. whilst no change was done to anything...
i checked the "real" battery voltage using a DMO and it was 13.x volt.
i quickly inspected all the cabling, but all seemed correct. (and all other values including current from the shunt looked correct..
I then did a reset to factory settings and the voltage was back to normal display (but it started with 100% capacity..) .
It seems to me like a software problem as the only thing i did to resolve it was a factory reset...

Any ideas or suggestions? or is the unit defective?
Regards,
Rainer

Hi I wondered if some one could help we are using the victron 3600 to prove our equipment cabinets can work using IT mode. our input voltage into the transformer is 240V and the output is 256V?!?! I was under the impression it was 1:1 ratio so input=output. It is causing our ATS (automatic transfer switch) to persistently switch between A and B feed due o over voltage protection. Can anyone explain why we are having this issue

Thanks,

James.

Hi,

I have an Orion 12|24-15 Non Iso DC-DC charger. Its input is a 12v starter battery on a Sprinter and the output is a 24v Li-Ion pack and they share a common ground.

I have been seeing strange charging issues and over-voltage alarms. On closer inspection the voltage shown in the app for the Orion doesn't match what I measure at its terminals with a meter.

These 2 images show the exact same time but a difference of 0.35v. Its been worse than this on other occasions and reads both under and over randomly.

Has anyone seen this kind of issue before on a DC/DC? Its on the latest FW, could it be a fault in the unit or my setup?

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Additional Info

All Bluetooth devices have the latest firmware available in the Victron App.

As I am measuring at the terminals I dont expect cable or connector losses to be an issue here. I also have a good bit of other Victron kit on the same 24v side which all agree with the multi-meter consistently under < .1v difference . All the kit is connected on the 24v Side via a Lynx distribution unit with cable well within its ratings. Connection tightness double checked. As mentioned earlier sometimes the voltage in the DC-DC app reads over sometimes under and it seems to move around day to day.

Heres a comparison of readings:

Device	Reported Voltage
Orion 12|24 - 15 (Output)	24.2
MPPT Smart Solar	23.88
Orion 24|12 - 30 (Input)	23.9
Smart Shunt	23.85
Multimeter	23.85

Any advice or questions welcome. Many Thanks!

Martin.

Running 300Ah of LiFePO via 100/50 64V 9.6Amp 600W Solar Array in Trailer to 12V Multiplus 2Kw.

Running a 3 panel, 600W array in series, producing 64-66 max open voltage, and around 56V nominal, into a 100/50 SC. Sometimes I’ll get 64+ voltage readings, 200W or so, 4 amps (it’s late November); other times it will drop to 20 or 40 Volts.

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I have a pair of superpacks in parallel connected to a motor. The circuit had been tested and in use with no issues, other than motor is too fast. ive connected a motor controller to the circuit output without the motor and applied power to make sure the speed controller would turn on and was trying to measure output. I cycled the power to this speed controller vie momentary switch for very brief period, 1-2s, and when trying to go reverse direction was unable to power my relays and voltage was reading 0-5Vmax and fluctuating like crazy. i figured the protection activated as the speed controller must have over amped the batteries but it now will not reset itself. the data sheet indicates this safety is present and should reset itself within 10s. once again the output was only engaged for very brief time and load completely removed from battery so it should have been taken out of any "abuse" states very quick. when i connect to a charge to try to reset, i am able to read full charger voltage and the battery accepts current ~3A as was near 100% at time of incident. Has anyone experienced activating this internal safety and what measure can be done to reset it? or am I out 2 brand new batteries?

Update 25/11

The battery once again gave a low voltage alarm while about 80% SoC, causing the inverter to restart. There is clearly something wrong. My best guess (based on many informed opinions) is a serious BMS firmware bug or design flaw. It could also be severely unbalanced cells, or a faulty cell. BSL is apparently working on improving the firmware (they're aware something is wrong).

I'm working with the installer to have the battery exchanged for something that actually works reliably. I would not recommend buying a BSL stubby for the time being, at least not until they sort the BMS issues out.

---

Hi,

Hardware details:

• 1 x MultiPlus-II48/5000/70-50 230V
  • Firmware: v481
• 1x BSL Battery LiFePO48 Battery 8.2kWh (160Ah)
• 1 x SmartSolar MPPT 250/100-Tr VE.Can
• 12 x LONGi 450W mono panels
• Cerbo GX
• ET112 Energy Meter

Setup details:

• Grid connected to AC-IN
  • Grid feed-in is disabled.
• AC-OUT-1 is feeding essential loads (no more than 2000W, average about 300W-700W)
• AC-OUT-2 is feeding geyser (on timer 10:00-15:00) and stove.
• ESS mode: Optimised (with BatteryLife)
• The system is less than a week old and has been running perfectly up until a few hours ago.

Issue description:

The inverter suddenly shut down and started up on its own after a minute or two. The battery was about 99% SOC when this happened.

The following alarms occurred:

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On VRM I can also see there was a "High DC ripple" warning at the same time.

The system ran fine after that for a while after which the same thing occurred again, but this time it coincided with a grid failure (load shedding). The same alarms occurred:

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During both occurrences, the load on the inverter was at most 500W (nothing was switched on additionally when it happened).

Does anyone have an idea what the cause could be? I'd appreciate any input.

VRM images (please let me know if other log data could be useful):

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I did also notice on the MPPT daily history, the minimum voltage for the battery today was 44.72V, which seems very wrong:

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Usually it discharges to about 45% throughout the evening, and then the minimum voltage hasn't fallen below 51V before today:

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Hello. Is my brand new 100a autotransformer defective?! It is putting out 120v and 114v on each leg.

Can I fix this? What do I do?

I just installed a MP2 in my RV. The charger is set up according to the setting recommended by the battery manufacture: Absorption 14.4V and Float of 13.8. Most of the time the MP shows appropriate DC voltage in this range but only produces around 13.1 to 13.5 V verified by a multi meter. This low voltage allows the battery to discharge even while plugged into shore power. If I change a setting by even .01 V on the MP, it quickly displaces it current produced voltage and then jumps back up the appropriate charge voltage and charges the battery. This however only stays this way for a short time and then the voltage being produced drops back down in the 13.2-13.5 range while the display still shows a voltage in the 13.9-14.2 range. I have updated the firmware, but that did not seem to make a difference. Both picture were taken at the same time. Any suggestions?

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Lets be clear, I understand that power generators should not feed in energy if the grid voltage is already high, hence the regulations around handling high voltages. Hence the locked-in grid parameters.

I have recently has "grid lost" for short periods in the middle of the day when high voltages were sustained. Circuits upstream of the inverter were not affected by a power loss - that made it was clear that the MP2 disconnected itself from the grid. The MP2 went into "Inverting" mode.

The question is "why disconnect from the grid?". Why does the MP2 not simply go into "pass-thru" mode or a "zero-export" mode? To me this seems much more sensible. It achieves the desired outcome of removing the generator from the grid while not drawing down on batteries needlessly.

Is there any way to change this behavior in response to high (10 min moving average) voltages? (yes, ideally, fix the voltage issues but ...)

thank you,

Ron

After installing the isolatef Orion 30/30 in my Van it worked properly for 2 weeks. Suddenly charging stopped due to low input voltage. In the app the inputvoltage seems ‘stocked’ at 12,3 volt. When i measure the input (at the Orion) after starting the engine it’s about 13,7 volt. I reinstalled the fabricsettings, checked the wiring and the fuse near the battery. What can be the ‘problem’?

Hello

I have 3 Multiplus 2 inverters with 3 phase connection. The problem is that the AC output voltage of one of the inverters has reached a value of 300V and reached 190V on another one ( the output voltage is set to be 230V)

This problem caused great damaged to the clients electrical equipment.

The problem only occurs when Grid power is ON. I tried disconnecting the grid and everything went back to normal.

I tested the AC input voltage and it has a value of 230V so the input power could not be the problem cause.

Tgere is nothing wrong with the inverter connections.

What might be the problem?

Hello,

I have a client with a Easysolar 5kva (multiplus 5kVa). Stand alone, lead acid batteries.

System has been working for several months. AC output is locked at 151V. I have checked & Re Entered settings in VE Config to ensure output is set to 230V.

State on Colour Control is "Low Power".

Batteries are fully charged and in good condition.

See Screenshots below.

Any Idea's?

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I am having an issue with the Autotransformer output voltages - 114V on L1 and 120V on L2 (with no load)

120V current is supplied by a Quattro 48V / 10000 / 140-100/100 to the 100A Autotransformer. I'm using the AT to provide a split-phase 120/240v supply to the 50A main break panel in my RV

I have wired the AT connections according to the diagram #3 shown on the system schematics page from the Victron website: (https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/AT-3-split-phase-120V-to-120-240V-with-Quattro-120V.pdf)

The Ground Relay in the Quattro is set to ON and is correctly grounding the Neutral to earth.

Here are the voltages I read at the terminals:

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The problem I have with this is that the voltage on L1 decreases a lot with load, and when occurs equipment will pull more current to compensate for the lower voltage.

Here is a pic of my RV control panel, showing the disparity in voltage between L1 and L2. Even though there are 2 air conditioners on Line2 it has only dropped 2 volts - Line1 dropped from 114v to 105v. This can't be good.

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Questions: 1) - Is this method of wiring correct, and 2) what is causing the voltage discrepancy?

Thanks!

Aug-31: Editing this in an attempt to make the question visible again. I'm thinking of sending this AutoTransformer back to Victron as it is not performing to expectations. I have seen voltages as low as 96 volts on L1, at which point my UPS shuts down my computer, and various other circuits shut down. Not happy...

I'd appreciate a comment from anyone who has had experience with an AutoTransformer.

Seen some with similar problem but not seeing many answers. Please help. Trying to improve SOC during daylight hours. Have Smartshunt onto 600Ah Lithium. Po4. Come the afternoon, solar producing close to 50Amps. The voltage moves increasingly higher and then goes into Float. Float set at 14.2v. Trying to keep voltage low and Amps high to increase SOC. Is the charger regulating the max. Output by increasing the charge voltage? When I turn the charger off for a few minutes, voltage regulates to below 13.8 and charger goes into Bulk mode with higher charging current obviously. Running VE Bluetooth dongle and Smartshunt networked