I am about to wire my 3-Phase Quattro-15k-Setup and did not find the required answer in the Manual (also pictures googled... did not lighten things up yet)
- ESS-Setup is planned with a coupled grid, but no Generator (yet, maybe in future)
- Grid delivers L1,L2,L3 and a PEN!
- PEN is connected to earth of the Building and splitted into PE and N from there onwards.
So far so good... from there onwards I want to connect my three Quattros 15K, but I am not sure how to wire the "four" grounds of each device (in total 12 Grounds-Connectors)...
Each Q-15K has...
1) a Ground at Connector "J3"
Q: ? --> Only "Input" for AC-1 and with "Building-PE"
2) a Ground at Connector "J6"
Q: ? --> "Input" for AC In-2 or "output" for AC Out-1
3) a Ground at Connector "J11"
Q: ? --> "Output" for AC Out-2 ?
4) a Ground at the Enclosure underneath the connection-Area
Q: ? --> Most probably intended to be connected to the "Building-PE"?
Probably the essential Question is: Is PE somehow "switched" (and needs serial connection in which way), what kind of makes me nervous..., or can PE`s (1,2,3,4) just get connected in parallel? I don't get it yet... and I did not find a picture showing/explaining the Situation for the 15KVA-Model...
I probably need advice from someone understanding the internals of the device... 100%
I am wondering how to wire up a 24 volt water pump from my
I recently purchased the Blue Smart Charger 12 | 7 and I'm wondering if it is suitable for my use (I suppose i should have asked this before buying it). I have a 26' sail boat with a single 12V AGM battery, and currently only a DC system. All loads are very light, under 2amp draw.
I'm wondering if this charger is suitable to be installed for charging on an ongoing basis when hooked up to shore power? and also the charger comes with a 3 prong AC plug for input, can this plug be stripped and wired into an AC panel as i've planned in my wiring diagram?
Appreciate anyone's input. Thank you
Multiplus 12|3000|120 AC-Out-1: 75A possible. AWG 6 recommended.
AC-In says to use three-wire cable, AWG 6 gauge. Rated for 50A.
I've seen 6/3 cable say 55A per conductor, so is 6/3 cable sufficient for AC-Out-1? Or use three AWG 6 wires, or a lower gauge like 4/3?
I would like to monitor my inverter; it's around 13 year old Phoenix Compact multiplus 12v 1200va 50AMP. Ideally via a pi; but PC if necessary. What hardware/cable do I need (a little late Christmas present for the boat)?
I'm looking for input regarding cable length when hooking up my Multiplus and SmartSolar.
I frequently see the recommendation to keep cables the same length. What cables does this apply to? For sure, match cables linking batteries. But what about others?
Must the POS and NEG cables from the respective buses to the MultiPlus be the same length? If yes, is there an acceptable tolerance for slightly different lengths?
I expect my longest single cable to be less than 30" long and the total path from the battery (+) to the inverter to be about 60" long. I'm wondering if short runs like this reduce the need for perfectly matched cables.
My 46" Sail Boat has 2 battery compartments due to space limitations. 3 batteries on the starboard side, 2 batteries on the port side where the main DC power grid is based. 4 feet between banks. Batteries are wired in parallel. I understand that Lithium batteries should have equal cable length. Is there a workaround to cable this scenario or is it ok/not ok to wire them this way?
Trying to install a Multi Plus Compact 2000w in my RV. The shore power connection has four wires: two 50A hot legs (red and black), neutral, and ground. Since the Multi Plus inverter will only power one hot leg, my plan is to "split" my existing breaker panel so that one leg (about half the panel) is powered direct from shore power and the other leg runs through the Multi Plus.
Let's say I leave AC line 1 as the non-inverter side, going straight from shore power into the breaker panel. Then AC line 2 would go from shore power, to the Multi Plus AC-in, then from the Multi Plus AC-out to the second leg of the breaker panel.
But how do I wire the neutral and ground?
Normally AC line 1 and 2 share a neutral and ground (since 1 and 2 are out of phase, their currents cancel each other out on the neutral). But now line 2 gets sent to the Multi Plus while line 1 goes straight to the breaker panel. Is it fine for the neutral and ground wires to simply follow line 2 through the Multi Plus before arriving at the breaker panel? Or does line 1 now need its own neutral/ground? Do I need to split the neutral so that one neutral wire follows AC line 1 into the breaker panel and another neutral wire follows AC line 2 through the Multi Plus? If so, do I need to isolate the two neutrals by cutting the existing neutral bar in the breaker box?
I've read that a better solution is installing a sub-panel, but I'm trying to go for the simplest solution, which I believe would be keeping everything in the existing breaker panel.
Advice would be much appreciated.
Hey guys, I’m curious if it is normal for voltage on smart meter display for an mppt 100/20 charge controller to jump around while battery is being charged through shore power. I used an isolator switch settings to shut off panels and it still does it. I have one 100ah battle born battery and an aims 1500w inverter/charger I’m using to charge battery through shore. This is when my smart monitor shows volts jumping around. Volts jump around in the 14v range and then when I turn off my aims charger, it shows 13v.
Hi all. I'm planning to connect 2 x 5kw quattros in parallel as I need both 120v and 240v.
I have a 6kw 240v generator. Can I connect it to both inverters? I would really appreciate any guidance or a wiring diagram example
I know that red and blue cables to each battery should be equal length.
But should the cables to both batteries be equal length.
So all 4 cables i the same length.
Or can battery 1 have one length and battery 2 a another length?
How should I connect my extra bow battery to see the correct load in the Smart shunt. Today it´s connected as the attached picture. The problem is for example when I use my aft anchor winch, then the extra bow battery charges my main bank and the battery capacity is not correct. I assume I will have the same problem when i use my bow thruster and all my other consumers.
Does anyone know how I should wire my bow battery to have everything work correctly?
Dear all. Please help me with a question. I have a 3kwp ongrid PV system (with ABB inverter) with excess feed in to grid, and i'll extend the system with a Multiplus II GX 48/3000 and a 48V 180Ah PZS battery pack . My main purpose is to optimize self consumption (with 50-60% of the batteries), and also make my PV system work even in case of a power failure (which is pretty often in our village). I can go pretty low with my essential consumption (fridge+freezer+lights+water pump+ charging tools/phone), because i can heat my house+produce hot water also with wood boiler/stove. In the summertime DHW is produced by solar thermal collector.
I want to separate my non essential loads (electric water heater, and a small heat pump (consuming between 3A-11A), and i don't want to supply them AT ALL from battery backup (i dont' want to discharge my batteries too fast, shortening their lifecycle....).
My question is: if i connect my non essential loads to AC2 output, and during daytime, at a certain moment for example PV array produces 800W, no consumption on AC1, and my water heater on AC2 consumes 2000W, will the MPII try to supply the difference of 1200W from the batteries? Or from the grid? (As I heard, the MP try to assure zero input/output on the measuring point, which in my case is inside the MP, no ET112 energy meter will be used. So i think it will try to use the batteries, instead of taking from the grid, but i am not sure....). This is "version B" from the attached drawing.
Or i better use "version A", and connect my non-essentials parallel to MPII ? Disadvantage would be that i can not monitorize my non essential consumers via Victron portal, but i prefer this, than shortening my batteries lifetime.
Your kind help will be higly appreciated.
I´ve got a Lynx Smart BMS with the latest firmware and a Victron Lithium Smart 12,8V/100Ah Battery.
During discharge process a failure (BMS Cable Failure) occured. No cables were touched during or before the failure.
I tried another Victron Lithium Smart 12,8V/100Ah Battery which could be discharged for 5 minutes and after this the same failure (BMS Cable Failure) occured.
Switching back to the first battery didnt solve the problem. Leaving the Lynx Smart BMS currentless didn´t help either.
I´m connecting only one battery simultaneously without any extension cable. The connection port for the BMS cable is intact.
What can I do ? Is there a reset option ?
I have 12v small loads hub (1A usb charger, 5W fan) connected directly to smart battery protect. Inverter is connected directly to battery, it runs refrigerator 24/7 on ECO mode.
Both inverter and battery protect have low voltage cutoff enabled at same value, as to protect battery from over-depletion. Is this correct?
How to wire my setup so i avoid this: (from inverter manual) "Do not use Dynamic Cut-off in an installation that also has other loads connected to the same battery: the battery voltage will drop because of the extra load, but the Dynamic Cut-off algorithm in the Inverter is not aware of that load: hence the Inverter will shut down too early with an under voltage alarm. " ?
This question is regarding the Victron 100/50 MPPT Smart Solar Charger for a van conversion installation.
The entire electrical system is grounded to the van chassis. Specifically, I have a wire bolted to the van and then connected to the main negative bus bar.
I have the negative wire of the MPPT Smart Solar Charger connected to the main negative bus bar, and the positive wire of the MPPT Smart Solar Charger connected to the main positive bus bar.
Can the ground wire of the MPPT Smart Solar Charger also be connected to the negative bus bar or should it be connected to the van chassis?
I would prefer that the ground wire not be connected to the van chassis, but rather connected to the negative bus bar, along with all the other negative wires.
Hoping to get some more clarification on this.
I have a 12v system in a RV that is electrically isolated from the vehicle, meaning they don't share a common negative on the chassis. I have a 100/30 MPPT that has a grounding screw on the side, should I connect this to my house batteries negative or the chassis of the vehicle even though it doesn't form a closed loop?
Im designing the electrical of my campervan, and im having trouble with the wire going from the busbar (positive and negative) to the battery. According to calculations the cable should be 120mm2. But that seems so bulky for me.. Could anyone help out? Thanks.
So my battery pack for my off grid setup (930amp 48v wet cell, made up of 24 x 2v) is due at the suppliers in the next few days and they will be making up the link cables.
I know the multiplus 2 48v/8000 is recommended and setup for 2 x 50mm2 for both positive and negative, however the battery supplier has said they normally supply packs with single 50mm2 link cables and the maximum link cables they can make up is 70mm2, they have also said due to the air tight sealing when the cables are attached they would not recommend doubling up the cables.
That leaves me with the issue of I will need to double up or beef up the main feed cable to the battery, but would the link cables between the cells be up to the job ?
Any help greatly appreciated.
HI, I installed my MultiPlus AC-in and AC-out installation instructions found on page 7 of the manual. Specifically, it states to connect AC out "From left to right: "L" (neutral), "PE" (ground) and "N" (phase). This is the opposite of the AC-in where "N" corresponds to neutral and "L" corresponsds to (phase).
My first question is, does the sequence above for AC out makes sense? Are the instructions inverting phase and neutral polarities?
Secondly, when I connect the AC-Out to load (< 100 watts, currently), I obtain an overload warning immediately, and the MultiPlus makes also a "rattling noise". So I disconnect the load rapidly. A fan also turns on momentarily.
Any suggestions to correct this issue? The battery (12 V, 206AH, 1200 Watts continuous up to 2400
Watts x 3 seconds) and AC-in seems to be working just fine. The battery changes without a glitch.
I would appreciate any help.
I have just bought two new Pylontech US2000 but just want to make sure connect the correct CAN-bus BMS cable. After what understand from
It should be " VE.Can to CAN-bus BMS type B Cable, part number ASS030720018"
Is this correct?
The cables came off while driving the van and now I cannot get the screw to open the space large enough to insert the cable. The screw does move one side but part of the hole is still blocked.
I am a newbie as far as connecting solar panels.
I have a Victron Energy Solar Panel 40W-12V Mono series 4a - SPM040401200. This panel doesn't come with any flying leads to MC4 connectors. It has two cable entry holes with screw in caps and cable clamping glands. Can anyone please tell me how this works with the cable? Do I need to attach a pin to the cable before inserting it into the hole? I have a male and female MC4 connectors but neither of those look like they connect directly to the panel terminal block. Sadly no information came with the panel and I cannot find anything online. A simple diagram/description would have been soooo useful.. Many thanks in advance for any help.
I'm working on the electrical system for an off-grid RV. I have a multiplus 2000 compact and a Dometic Brisk II high efficiency (11.5btu). The multiplus will handle the AC but my battery bank will not. I intend to only use the Brisk when connected to shore power. So, can the Multiplus be programmed to disconnect the Brisk when grid power is lost (in case of outage or if my generator runs out of juice) or would I be better off just adding a 15A breaker ahead of the multiplus on the shore connection side to power the Brisk when plugged into shore only?
I have an Orion tr smart.
It's wired via dual 6mm cable to an Anderson plug on my Isuzu. Then is connected along with an MPPT to a lithium battery bank.
When I connect the DCDC tr smart, it turns on, the Bluetooth light starts flashing and I can connect to the unit.
It will come on to charge for a few seconds and then drop out, the input voltage drops to around 6 volts.
it will then go back up to 13.8v at input input and charges the bank.. then after a few seconds will drop down to 6 volts again... the cycle repeats.
Any help would be appreciated
I have run a separate twin core cable directly connected to the battery in the car and straight into the Orion smart, therefore eliminating cable issues run in the van and car.. and still same problems.
Have bench tested the unit and seems to work ok.
I am wondering Would I need to add another earth from the car chassis to the negative bussbar in the van ? or is the twin core ok?
I don't know if any of the engineers actually read this forum, but I'm hoping to find out the maximum allowable cable length for the VE. Can interface cables. I intend to build my own cables using high-quality shielded cable (probably Cat7) so the attenuation and interference should not be a problem. I only wonder what the maximum latency is...
I can find information on the maximum cable length on the VE. Bus. People on the forums are saying that they're having trouble with longer cables, but the literature seems to indicate that you should be fine as long as the total cable length doesn't exceed 100 meters. Therefore, I believe that these people would do better with larger shielded cables since the literature seems to indicate that they shouldn't have latency problems, but I have found no such literature for the VE. Can.
I'm trying to mount the GX 70 upstairs quite a ways from the battery room. I figured I'd just locate the Cerbo GX up next to the GX 70 location.
If anyone can help, or if anyone can tell me who to contact, I'd really appreciate it!
Hi, I’ve purchased male/female extension cables that go between the lynx BMS and the victron smart battery.
One of the cables connects to the lynx BMS but the other looks like it requires an extra bit to screw around the male part of the lynx BMS.
Does anyone have any tips please?
I am deciding to purchase
Victron Blue Smart IP22 SLA/LiFePO4 Charger 12V 30A
The battery connection terminal is listed a being for 16mm2 or AWG6 in the manual.
Could the manufacturer or someone that is capable of precise measurement please advise what is the actual size of this hole.
What is the precise size of the battery input terminal ?
Mathematically it has to be bigger than 4.52mm D
To accommodate 16mm it is probably at least 5.5mm D (cabac cable lugs have a 5.5mm hole to insert a 16mm cable for example)
Can it fit a 6mm D copper stalk ?
Can it fit a 7.7mm D ferrule ?
Yes I am trying to use 25mm cable for 'reasons' being that is the cable I have got already.
No I don't want a stud with a 25to16 tie tail.- Looks rough to me and I'm not keen on extra connections joints and hardware just because Victron didn't think to put a 6,8, or 10 mm terminal stud on this item.
Any help much obliged.
I just purchasef a Victron Smartsolar MPPT 100/30 controller and I'm not sure how I should connect it to my Victron Battery monitor BMV-712 and shunt. I believe from all the research I've done on the internet is...I should connect the positive wire from the smart controller directly to the positive terminal (load side) on the battery. The negative wire from the smartcontroller should go to the negative ground terminal 500A post on the shunt. There should only be one negative wire running from the negative terminal from my battery to the negative 50mV post on the shunt. Is that correct?? Finally, should I put a fuse in on the positive cable running from the smart controller to the positive terminal of the battery? There is already a fuse on the positive supply side running from the battery to the shunt. If I do need a fuse, what do you recommend I get?
Here is my wiring diagram, I am a bit worried about the size of the Pylontech cables 25mm2 connecting to the inverter, So I was wondering if you can connect your batteries like this and then have a 50mm2 cable from the lynx to the inverter? And if this is ok what size Mega fuses will I need in the lynx distributor?