Hi I have an electrician attaching cables to various terminals of my Multiplus 2 48/8000 inverter.
One of the terminals for the AC1 output snapped off half way up. The electrician said he was hardly turning it. and it looks like there was a flaw in the bolt shaft of the terminal so I believe him. see image attached.
I contacted the supplier of the inverter and they in turn sort advice from Victron Spain. Victron Spain said that a broken terminal is not covered by a warranty claim.
As I understand it, it's a soldered in terminal. Has anyone had the same issue? how did you resolve it. and if I need a repair done can a new one be soldered in without damaging the mother board?
There is just enough treads we think we can hack a solution with a bolt extension nut if no other practical solution is forth coming.
Thanks in advance
I've seen some topics on this, but my situation might be slightly different. Ive fallen victim to under-tightening the AC neutral out line from my Multiplus 12/3000. It burnt just the end of the wire and charred the terminal block. I striped back to good wire, scraped out the terminal block, and replaced it. I am going to give it a good cleaning later tonight, but for now everything is functioning normal. I am curious on everyone's thoughts on re-using this terminal block or having someone replace the part. It's annoying I can't just buy the part and replace it myself.
Yes I see from the picture I'll need to reduce the wire length to properly insert them according to the manual so that no bare wire is showing.
See picture attached.
I have a MPPT 75/15 and the specs say the terminal fits a 6mm² cable. I tried that cable size and it does not fit. Without a wire end ferrule it may go in but just and it is a hassle, some strands being bend and staying out (not good), with a crimped ferrule of the correct size (it tried two types) there is no way this fits.
I have some pre-crimped cable from the solar panel (this is a kit) and the ferrule there look like a size too small and it is a 10 gauge wire which is slightly smaller than 6mm² as well. And even that barely fits.
So what am I doing wrong? Do I need to switch to 4mm² cable? It is only the 1.2m length from MPPT to battery, but 6mm² cable is what I have....
Not sure how it got lost.
Distributor has none and says it's not available from Victron.
Gotta believe this is a "standard" part.
I have heard squish, basket, box, you name it. What is the actual name of this terminal type please?
I am trying to understand how many battery connector studs the 230v Multiplus-II has.
Thanks manual suggests there is 1x +VE and 1x -VE posts.
The 230V versions of the system drawings suggest there 2x +VE and 2x -VE posts.
Sorry if I have missed it in the detail of the manual - but can anyone comment ?
I am contemplating installing a Smartshunt 500A to monitor my house battery (and possibly running battery on the alternate channel). I've looked through the manual and it specifies that the 2 bolt terminals on the unit are M10 in size. This would correlate to a 3/8" lug. So why on earth would Victron make the studs this size? It is standard practice that positive terminals are sized at 3/8" and negative terminals are sized at 5/16". At least that is the case in the US. In wiring this I would start at a 5/16" (aka M8) terminal at the battery, step up to 3/8" (aka M10) on both Smartshunt terminals, then back down to 5/16" at the bus bar. This would require custom cables of course. Is this really the way that Victron designed this unit, or am I misinterpreting something?
I have a terminal fuse attached to the POS terminal.
Should the temperature sensor be connected to the battery or the fuse?
I would prefer the fuse, but would that get in the way of a good battery reading?
I recently noticed that the negative terminal (On the PV side) of my Smart MPPT Solar charge controller 150v/100A burned out (most likely because of bad wire connection) I noticed the burn out started from the wiring (The wires were partially burnt and corroded).
I noticed this when I was moving between houses, I did not notice any drop in harvest or productivity (I would easily notice a drop in productivity since I have actively monitor my solar production on a daily and I have realtime logs extracted every 10sec and stored.
The system is 24v with 3000w panels. The system is grid interactive and a such the grid comes up at night while solar works during the day. On an average, the system peaks at about 70 to 80A / 24v during charge cycles and that has not changed.
My concern though is that the charge efficiency of the controller has been compromised due to the burnt out terminal. I have no doubt that it has introduced resistance to the charging process which I believe would only get worse.
I have since ordered for a replacement and the plan is to have this relegated for secondary use.
My question is this. Can this unit be repaired? Is the terminal replaceable? This is a very expensive device and it would be a shame to condemn it totally because of a burnt out terminal.
I purchased the device from an authorized victron deal in my country so I am hoping that they might be able to fix it back as new.
I have attached the picture of the terminal
The "AC in" romex that the RV manufacturer used is #6 three stranded with a #10 solid ground. Can I insert the solid #10 in the ground terminal and expect it to be a secure fit?
Could I fold the #10 over and insert?
If not... what could I do to use the existing romex that has the #10.??
Section 2.8. of the Cerbo GX manual talks about Connecting Tank Level Sensors. "To physically attach the tank probes requires a ferrule or exposed copper end of at least 10 mm+ to be inserted into the removable terminal block connector."
I want to add a ferrule to the wire that connects to my tank level sensor that can then be input into the terminal block connector.
What gauge of wire or ferrule size is recommended for the terminal block connector?
Thanks in advance... Jim
I'm installing a new Multiplus II (12|3000|120-50) in our RV and unlike the regular Multiplus we have on our boat it has these spring loaded AC terminal blocks (no screws).
I'm finding them tedious to work with and wishing this thing had screw terminals like the old model. I'm using Ancor 6 AWG marine wire and I really have to hold my mouth right to get the connection made well with the soft finely stranded wire (and you can't really tell how well it's made, all you can tell is if it's captured). I get the wire started in the hole and then slip a small screwdriver into the release hole to ease the tension and then slip the wire the rest of the way.
There's no documentation in the instructions regarding these terminals. I have determined that about 7/8" seems to be an appropriate strip length.
I'm thinking these terminals are perhaps more appropriate for stranded THHN or something with a heavier lay than the marine wire. I'm wondering if a bootlace ferrule could or should be used with marine wire in these terminals?
Does anybody know the manufacturer of these terminals or can point me to any documentation about correct use of these terminals and what wire might actually be specified for them?
Any help or tips with using these terminals (correctly) would be much appreciated, I'm way more comfortable with screw terminals.
The cables came off while driving the van and now I cannot get the screw to open the space large enough to insert the cable. The screw does move one side but part of the hole is still blocked.
So I made the mistake of not tightening the DC side terminal screws enough, which has resulted in a melted minus terminal.
Luckily the DC terminals are easy to remove; Now I just have the problem of trying to figure out the name of the terminal so i can order a new one.
Does anybody know the name of the terminals on the DC side of a Phoenix 12/375 inverter ?
The manual is somewhat unclear on this, so thought I'd ask. I've got 1666 strand with 0.127mm strand diameter tinned copper 4WG cable (weave config 7x7x34).
The Manual states a minium amount of strands, but doesn't specify what the maxium strands/the minium strand diameter should be?
Will I be okay to use this wire into the screw terminal?
Ferrules don't appear to be something I could source locally. The main alternative is to source some different cable to go from the terminal to the breaker.