We have a inverter charger 2000 12 VOLT that we can't figure out issues and are desperately seeking help in the Florida Panhandle (Pensacola). We have contacted dealers around Florida unable to assist. We purchached a 3000 to replace but are unsure how to install on our own. Basically looking for someone who knows what they are doing and able to fix current issues with the 2000 unit or install our newly purchased 3000. Please help. Thank you very much.
Looking for a system to run catering equipment in a mobile catering van. I have put together the below diagram myself. I know its not great but very much work in progress. Also I know it doesn't show fuse's on the Lynx but there will be of course. Its more a reference diagram for now.
Looking to use 3x 24 volt 200ah lipo batteries to give us plenty of power. The system will be charged via the quattro of a night time when the van is back at the premise's.
I am looking for any recommendation's on the Victron products chosen and the schematics. Is this a good combination of Victron products that will work well together or any other products that may be better suited.
I wasn't so sure on where in the system to get the power from for the VE.Bus BMS, battery protect and the cerbo GX. Lynx power in side or Lynx distribution side after the shunt.
Any help, advice and criticisms would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance all.
Oh just to add, I know the diagram doesn't show any of the 240v side that it will obviously need.
Hello, I do not know where to find initial admin password to EV Charging Station. I have read the manual and seen instruction video. I know it was also mentioned here that the password should be on the label inside the device however there is probably something wrong with me. I have 2 labels inside tha device. The first one is with product number and serial number. The second one is with wifi network SSID and wifi key. There is also wifi mac on it. I do not see the admin password anywhere. Sorry for that and thank you for your help in advance. Best regards.
GX LTE 4G-A does not transmit Cerbo Gx information. Signal strength is 4 bars and is connected to internet. I get error codes 152 and 153. Has anyone exchanged their first modem for another one and had it work? Cerbo GX is on firmware 2.92.
I can connect over wifi via my phone's hotspot and the VRM portal works. I have tried the solutions that have been suggested here without success. With no active wifi or ethernet the modem will still not connect.
It appears that I am not alone with this problem. I have not seem a definitive solution yet.
Smart shunt 500 and Phoenix 48/800 on order, 4xchins12/100 and a powmr (500v PV) 48/5000/120, will want to add Raspberry pi (if they don’t exceed Cerbo in price :-)
Seems that a VE.direct cable will get data shared between Smart shunt and Phoenix, but smart shunt doesn’t pass frames across interfaces, right(?), so I can’t use phone to configure Phoenix with smart shunt alone.
it seems If I go for a Bluetooth dongle on the Phoenix, I can make a smart network, but then, can a raspberry-pi with Victron OS join smart network, or can solar-assistant join using Bluetooth?
Difficult to tell without hands-on.
Trying to weigh the benefits and liability of each interface… Bluetooth smart network, VE.direct, Serial, Bluetooth.
I have this 9000w genset and I'm having a hard time figuring out how many amps it is able to output while charging my system. It can output 120v or 240v.
What math I'm using is this so far but it's such a big genset, it must be able to output more than 60a???
9000w - 20% inefficiency = 7200w
My multiplus 24v/3000w/70-50 is 120v so the math should be 7200w/120v = 60a output.
Is that correct?
Right now I'm charging and I can see that my system seems to only be accepting 20a from the genset while charging! What? How can I fix this so I can get more charge into my bank in less time and gas spent?
STEPS I HAVE TAKEN:
Following this document by Victron, I have:
Deactivated Power Assist in the VE.Config
Changed the AC Input Current Limit to 31a based on their equation below:
(a 5kVA generator typically provides about 4 kW
80% of 4 kW is 3200 W
3200 W / 230 V volts = 13.9 A
Set the AC Current Input Limit to 13 A)
Mine looks like 9000w - 20% as above = 7200w / 120v = 31a
But I'm not seeing anything different at all.
PS: Please ignore the "stopped" in the genset info. I don't have it set to auto start/stop yet so everytime I manually start a charge, it still reports it as stopped on the VRM.
PV input terminals have no resistance between positive and negative!
I recently purchased an Easy Solar unit (serial number as listed above).
My unit has been paired (successfully) with two Pylontech US3000C batteries (48V).
Likewise the mains input and AC output (1) have all initiated correctly.
PV source comes from four Trina Vertex S Mono 395w (total 1600w @ 37v).
The four panels are connected as TWO pairs (two instances of two panels connected in series ), with each pair then connected in parallel to provide 74v output.
The two 74v PV supplies are routed through a fused and isolated combiner box to provide a single output of 74v for the Easy Solar unit.
In accordance with the Easy Solar instructions the 74V PV supply is sufficient (Vbat +5) to enable the MPPT to initiate.
The solar panels (frames) are all connected to earth via an earth rod.
The Easy Solar is connected to 'AC IN' via an RCD and suitably rated breaker. The feed for the 'AC IN' is from the domestic mains supply.
The AC 1 OUT is routed via a similar RCD and breaker.
The Easy Solar chassis, Pylontech batteries and associated components are all earth bonded, with the PE provided via the 'AC IN' house circuit.
When I connect the PV input (which before connection shows 75volts correct polarity) there is no voltage showing - however on investigation it appears the input terminal on the Easy Solar have no resistance between them - effectively meaning my PV input is shorted between the pos and neg.
At this time and having exhausted all logical investigations I can only conclude (without information the the contrary) that there is some 'fault' with the PV input board.
i would like to to wire 12 identical Axitec 415wp (Axipremium XXL HC BLK) modules -> RS450 does not fit very good based on the excel calculator, so i have to go for smartsolar. No shadow, all 12 modules pure perfect sun in perfect orientation.
Doable is 1x6 (250/60) orr 2x3 (150/60)
2x 150/60 is around 300Euro cheaper than 2x 250/60.
System is 48V and another large AC inverter exist as well with 3 Multiplus.
Is there any disadvantage going with 2x 150/60 ?
For people like us who live off grid full time but leave our homes to go to town for supplies now and again, it sure would be great to have smoke alarms connected to the Cerbo GX > VRM dashboard system so that I could get push notifications to my phone that there is an activated smoke alarm at my property while I'm away (or while I'm home for that matter!).
Sure would be a great safety feature of the system. Can anyone please tell me if the Nest or Ring smoke alarms would work, or if there are any other out there that would? If Ruuvi can tell me the temperature of my monitored area, it seems a little stretch for a smoke alarm to do the same if there is smoke?
We have a 24v system on a battery bank that has 705ah. Our daily use is 2.8kw. I have no appliances that draw electricity. I have no heat generating things here. Based on that useage that's about 117ah a day from our bank. At a 50% DOD we should have 352ah available to use to use before we should need to do a genset charge (we get very little light in our area this time of year so our solar isn't what we are relying on in this season for a charge). By my math, we should be able to go 3 days between charges (117ah x 3 days = 351ah used out of the 352ah available). However, every second day I see on the Victron VRM dashboard, the voltage dropping dangerously close to 24v on our bank so I do a charge to get it up to 28.8v until the amps drop down to at least 14 charging amps.
I'm wasting tons of gas doing this every second day when it should be something I don't have to do until every 3rd. I basically get one day of use when it should be three.
The company that sold me my components keeps asking me if we have electric radiant floors or something else that we are "unaware of" that is making a "mystery draw on the system".
No, there is not. We have propane appliances (furnace, hot water heater, stove, oven, fridge), no heat generating appliances such as toasters, curling irons, etc... and all of our lights are low draw LED's.
Please can anyone help me sort this mystery out? I just can't seem to figure out what I'm doing wrong.
What I want to do?
I live full time in an RV. I want to run everything from the batteries with inverters, even when connected to the grid. When batteries go below certain point, start the generator (20kva) and charge them. I also want to use solar panels so if the solar panels don't charge the batteries start the generator. For the 220v appliances I will need to be split phase (I think) so they can work correctly that's why I think 2 Victrons will work in this way.
What do I currently have?
I have the generator already, it is a 20kva genes and I also have an inverter that I want to replace with a couple of Victrons. I don't have batteries nor solar panels and I have the wiring in place already.
What do I need?
Inverters: I've been thinking in going the 48v route for the inverters so I don't have to use heavy gauge for the wiring but I can change this, is not set in stone. Batteries: I was thinking about using battle born batteries but I can use anything else I can get my hands on for lifepo4 on 48v configuration. Solar panels: I want to use mono cells and 375w panels (or bigger if I can get my hands on them) 375w is easy to get around where I live. Wiring and others: I have not clue what cables might I need and I what else I might need.
Another thing I'm wondering about, should I use my alternator to charge batteries? If so I would need to change it as the on I currently have is only 100A and won't do much to the setup I want.
If one of the questions you have is how many watts you are using I can't give a specific number but I can surely tell that I can have the mini split running and also the range could be on so that's not small potatoes but I can have them alternatively on if that makes a huge difference (which I think it does).
Other than that I have a water heater (a 1500watts unit) and an electric BBQ that it is 2000w. None of this things will be on while another large is on as well so I guess that all this is to say that I biggest load could be the mini split running and maybe some other minor things.
Thank you for reading this huge post and I would love if anybody can help me with this as I would need to solve this pretty soon and I have no idea what to do (equipment wise).
Thank you so much for your help in advance!
I’ve installed a solar system into my camper and the plan was for DC power to come to come from the Lynx Distributor fused with an 80 amp fuse, to two paralleled Orion 24/12-70 converters. Each runs to a separate breaker who’s output goes to a bus bar and from there to the power center at the other end of the camper. Negative runs directly to the power center. The lead acid battery on the tongue was disconnected from the power center and the converter removed. Unfortunately there doesn’t appear to be power coming from the Orions. As I’m full time in my RV that means no hot water, no lights, no tv since the antenna is 12v and as it gets colder the furnace fan as well. No 12v anything.
I have 6x215w panels that are connected to a 100/50 charge controller via a 50a breaker inbound and 60a breaker outbound to the right distributor. 2 Dakota Lithium 280Ah LiFePO4 batteries configured in series for 24v are connected to the left distributor alone. The smart shunt is connected to the outbound negative battery terminal. I have “no” red light on either distributor so it doesn’t appear to be a fusing issue.
I’ve tried connecting just 1 converter and still don’t appear to be getting power out. For the record, power in to the converter is to the left most stud. Power out is from the rightmost stud to its 80a breaker, to the bus bar, and then to the power center positive battery connection. Negative is to the middle stud and then continuing to the negative battery connection on the power center.
I and my equipment distributor are at our wits end! Can “anyone” offer insight and a remedy??
Hi, Has Victron sorted an option for the earth fault monitoring of a mppt 250/100 ?
Assuming it would send a signal to a GX device for an email/alarm alert, or close the relay on smart versions, to be able to trigger an audible alarm?
Any options appreciated.
Every time I check my Vicron readings on my phone I get a pop-up about enabling a product called Broadcast Data Advertising. What is this? Does it offer me some feature that I current don't have, and need? I'm alsi VERY leary of the use of the word "advertising". I'm not interested in being solicited. Thank you for helping understand this relentless pop-up.
Yesterday I have recieved my MPPT 75/15 SSC controller. Connected it to my 375w PV panel (open 41.6V), 24 V battery, all the systems was working well, I tested load output on my car phone charger, again, averything was going perfect, software controlls of load output was also working (on/off). Then I upgraded load with 600W inverter, after flipping a switch the inverter turned on, but in the app, load output status turned to off, with 0 amp/watt flow at the same time. BUT! The load was energized, and amps where flowing, inverter was working. At the same time PV power increased to 120w and the charging current on the battery by 5 amps (positive increase, allthou it should go with the minus sign). Obviously load output mosfet was blown.
So the questions are.
1.Why you say that load output is short circuit proof, quote "The load output is short circuit proof" Victron energy, smart solar charge controllers (MPPT 75/15), manual, if it is clearly NOT short circuit proof?
2.Why is firmware programmed to ignor load shunt input when the load output is software disabled (in reality working), and display makeup values instead reporting fault or just showing real situation, and also dangerously impact other values like battery charge current?