[image]Looking to hire/collaborate with a system designer who has previous experience designing a system for a motor yacht or sailboat. It can be globally based. We can collaborate over the internet using draw.io. I've created a rough diagram of my idea.
Please find my diagram here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_cgSoFykH7BRqq-ECAIdWs_vHTshDzvJ
I've posted the job here on UpWork where you can define your hourly rate for this job and get started right away securely:
Looking forward tow working with you :)
Hi all, does any body know if Victron have made stencils for Visio for their Victron Products?
Or if any body else made it and made it free to use.
It makes lite so much easier when making my schematics.
Have a 200watt panel on the roof and a Victron 15amp charge controller with two 24 group lead acid batteries. Looking to upgrade to eventually run the whole camper and the roof ac unit. It’s a 30 amp trailer. Not sure where to start. I’m trying to learn as I go. I would Imagine adding a 30w charge controller/ inverter would be a great place to start? I currently don’t have a inverter installed. Suggestions on how to proceed with upgrading ?
Current setup 2490w of panels on a shed and a growatt grid tied 2.5kw inverter.
My end goal is quattro plus batteries near incoming grid supply. Wire grid into quattro and have growatt as ac coupled system. Then add solar on house roof into battery (dc coupled)
However that end goal is very pricey. Any suggestions on an intermediary that minimises wasted parts.
I have room for about 10 more 2m x 1m panels on the shed (it's large and flat). My plan was 3.8kwh 12v battery with an old multiplus 800w model wired in as kind of a grid tied unit/ESS to output the battery later in evening.
Few concerns, I'm not sure how well multiplus will work in this kind of grid tied setup. Also feels like the multiplus will be wasted if I do pull the trigger on the monster end goal system of a quattro and circ 15kw of battery.
Love to hear suggestions/ideas on scalable systems. At the moment I'm guessing the advice will be don't bother buying anything and wait until I have funds for the big system.
I have just joined this community so please bear with me.
I recently had a battery installed removed from my property as it did not do what i expected off the shelf. It was manufactured by a company called GivEnergy and it was a very poor product with many development issues.
Now i have decided to go out this myself.
I am looking at utilising either the Multiplus or Quattro Units along with Pylontech Batteries and wondered if you had any advice, comments or examples of system design/schematics.
The system is to integrate with an already install SolarEdge 6000 HD Inverter for my PV.
I am looking for storage capacity of approximately 21kw, so utilising the Pylontech 3000 Series batttery. The biggest request i have for the system is having a large discharge power as I have a Air Source Heat Pump which can take up to 5kw for Water Heating.
My idea was to use the Quattro 8000 Unit having the batteries wired in a stack of 8 with a ring circuit back to a DC Distribution. The batteries are to be controlled using a GX Device.
My question really revolves, any lessons learned? Does anyone have any advice on the Quattro and GX Devices.
Am i doing the right thing with this?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
My names Jesse Fuchs and I own a 30ft Airstream Argosy that I have stripped down to the bones, and I am slowly poking away at rebuilding while Covid-19 has closed my local watering hole.
It’s about the time to start planning the electrical system so I can size the wire, fuses, and disconnects. I have cruised the forums the last year and know that these are tough places for someone to drop into looking for guidance, especially if I have overlooked something important or decided to buck any of the current trends, alas, I am reaching out for help from the Victron Gurus. I apologize if something is obvious and I have missed it. Please bear with me.
I have attached the basic Electrical plan. The first thing you may notice is that, for cost reasons, I have decided to not use Victron batteries. I just cannot justify spending 12 000$ more.
This brings me to my first question.
#1 Other than connecting to the Lynx Shunt and monitoring the batteries temperatures with the Cerbo GX what am I missing?
#2 I want to simplify the system and stick with Victron so I have decided to opt out of using the Simerine monitoring system. One thing I really like about the Simerine is that it can monitor current draw of loads. Am I able to do this with the Cerbo GX or any other Victron equipment and then see a visual on the GX touch?
#3 This is more of a solar question, but I have organized the solar panels in 3 strings of 2 series panels to avoid shading issues. Should I use one MPPT 100/50 or three smaller MPPTs in parallel?
#4 I have done some very loose math and according to my load audit, for 3100w I am 100 ah short and a bit overkill on solar. I just want to avoid roof penetrations in the future so I would rather upsize. If there is a more efficient way that is glaring at anyone that I am missing? I’d love the tips.
#5 I do have a BMS 12/200 but thought that it was easier to go with the Orion 1212. If anyone needs a BMS 12/200 or it actually can be easily integrated for tow vehicle charging, please let me know.
# 6 Will there ever be a way to incorporate the Garnet seamaster levels into a Cerbo without having to utilize all of Kevin Windrems hard work?
Hi, my MPPT charge controller had a crystalline substance pour out of it. I caught most of it. Looks like the base has disintegrated. Barely used and when not in use is stored with cushioning.
I have noticed that the VICTRON Product info and specification listed on Helioscope is incorrect.
They still list the BLUESOLAR RANGE of Gridtie Inverters. Maybe Victron can be in direct contact with Folsom Labs to update and provide the correct information on you products to ensure that our simulations are correct.
You can contact Canute Haroldson - email@example.com
Still designing, came onto an approach which seems to me almost to good to be true (in my case), so I have the suspicion I make a mistake. Can you enlighten me?
The engine of my truck exists with 24V 35/55/80A alternators, so I assume that on the 80A model I could use about 50A (so roughly 1000W) without impacting the core of the truck.
I would prefer to run my "ESS" on 48V as it makes technically and financially most sense.
Now I could run 24-48 DCDC convertors, but to get to 25A on 48V takes 3.
But I could also run a 24V inverter and use it to convert my 50A spare of 80A 24V alternator in a 1000W 230V generator, which I connect to the ACin of the multiplus. In order not to stretch my alternator, and leave my truck stater batteries alone, I need a multiplus where I can set a very low limit on the ACin, only the 48/3000 model with limit minimum of 4.3 A stays in the 1000W ballpark (5000 is 6A). If I put a Cyrix 230A between alternator/starter battery & the inverter which I can program a bit, I should be able to make sure the invertor only kicks in when the engine is running. As the inverter can be rather simple, the 24 1000W (or let's say 1500W to be safe), can be a more plain (cheaper) brand as Victron. Or do you see a benefit of using a Phoenix
Fringe benefit, I can boost the AC out 2400W of the multiplus to 3400W (or about) by running the engine, and while I drive my base equipment runs on the alternator, only using the mutiplus/battery/solar for powerassist , and for charging my living batteries with whatever is spare of the 1000W.
When connecting to a landline (or other 230V source), I disconnect the inverter and replace it with the landline, the UPS function makes this transparent on the ACout side.
Eventually I can add a low power 230V 24V charger to AC out, and use that to maintain the truck starter batteries during longer stops (e.g. think parked 6 Months between holidays). I don't risk to make a loop as when the engine runs, the charger will detect high voltage on the starter side, and quit charging.
I would put a CerboGX to tie stuff together, and it seems to me I could use that to eventually add a temperature sensor on the alternator which the GX could use to kill the inverter, e.g. by opening the cyrix.
Looking forward to your views, spend many hours reading, but only experience makes a master, and that I lack.
UPDATE: A potential weak point (to be checked in real life) could be the alternator overheating when having to deliver the 1000W with the engine @ idle => low rpm => low cooling => it gets too hot and brakes. In the this setup it seems the throttling of the 1000W could only be done, by cutting ACin (4.3 A being the minimum limit) on the multiplus or switching the inverter on-off (limit it to e.g. 500W makes no sense it seems to me, as this gets below the multiplus threshold) . This would be beter manageable in a charger based system, where you could throttle.
After reading all the documentation and contacting various distributors I have conflicting data regarding two Victron products.
Question 1 regarding the Buck-Boost DC-DC Converter 25A / 50A / 100A:
Can you change the output voltage (via USB) while the converter is delivering power or will the output shortly disconnect to apply the settings?
Use case: I need to change the voltage +/- 2/3v while the connected equipment is running.
Got different answers - if maybe someone has it on the table a quick test would provide the definitive answer. The output should be under load.
Question 2 regarding the Orion-Tr DC-DC Converters Isolated:
Some of the equipment is running on 36v. Because there is no step up converter with an output between 30 and 40v one option is to use three isolated DC-DC converters IN SERIES to provide the needed 36. In theory, being isolated, it should work.
Has anyone used a similar setup or has more information if it's the right thing to do?
There is no other option (from what I have found) to have a 36v output.
Appreciate the time, willing to help research anything if it solves the problems.
I will connect two 250/100 chargers and two 10,000 KVA Quattro inverters to my Pylontech batteries through busbars.
1. Will the two 250/100 MPPTs send to my batteries up to 250 volts/200 amps if connected in parallel or 500 volts/200 amps if connected as stand alone controllers?
2. Does the same principle apply to Quattros?
3. Is it okay to connect everything (i.e the 2 MPPTs, the 2 inverters and the batteries) through the same busbars?
I have read Wiring Unlimited and the relevant manuals.
What charge controller do you recommend for 2 solar panels 300W / 24V.
As it happens, my design is very similar to the example given by Victron in the Pylontech manual. The main differences are that I am using two MPPTs and two Quattros (instead of one MPTT and a Multiplus) and I have many PVs (up to 40 panels). So I have "stolen" the Victron schematic drawing and modified it accordingly. Now the questions:
1. Does the design make sense? It's for self-consumption. i.e use solar and batteries as the main source of power, with the grid as back-up and to keep the batteries topped-up.
2. I have ordered for eight Pylontech batteries (US3000). Following the advice of @DayAndNight and because the long (2 metres) Pylontech cables carry a maximum of 120 amps, I have decided to keep the batteries separated in two groups of four. I couldn't find anyone to make cables that carry more current. Moreover, the Pylontech BMS most likely limits the current. I plan to buy eight more Pylontech batteries. The plan is also to put these in two groups of four, so that I have four groups of fours. No question here.
3. I know where to put fuses, but I'm confused as regards the volts! According to various Victron documents, one should get a fuse ideally equal to the system voltage (in my case 48 volts) or the nearest higher equivalent (in my case 58 volts) and the relevant current rating in amps. But according to various websites including Littelfuse, a fuse can only protect wiring or equipment at its stated volts and amps. One should therefore get a fuse at the rated amps and volts (expected volts, not merely system volts). In my case, just one MPTT can output 250 volts and each of my batteries can output 58 volts (remember I have 8 batteries, potentially 16), all obviously more than the 48-system voltage. Most of the fuses go to 150 volts. There are fuses rated to 600 dc volts, but they cost more than 100 US dollars. Moreover, there are specifically-rated photovoltaic fuses which cost even more. What should I get?
4. The same question applies to busbars. Most busbars are not rated, some have amps but no volts (like Victron's) and the rated ones, at least in the US, go only to 150 volts (Blue Sea). I can get a busbar of 1000 amps quite easily, but low voltage. What should I get? I will be dealing with about 1000 DC amps and 1000 DC volts in the busbars as distribution points.
5. The Lynx Ion manual says you can get two Lynx Distributors only but it is quiet about the Power-in. Can you get two Power-ins (without the Lynx Ion shunt and without the Lynx Distributor) and use them as fused "distributors" instead? Do the Lynx Power-in and Distributor really have two busbars each? From the images, I see one "red" fused busbar (positive) and a would-be black (negative) busbar eaten up by space for wires and fuses for the positive line.
6. In terms of communication, the plan is the two MPPTs and the two Quattros to talk to each other and to the Pylontech BMS through the CCGX. The Victron schematic suggests this is possible though some of the manuals say otherwise. Is this possible? (I guess "yes"). Should I wire my loads to the first or second or both Quattros? It doesn't matter to me how they are wired provided they can monitored through one CCGX.
Thanks. Sorry for the many qurstions.
I'm currently planning my ac coupled 30kWp pv system.
I think about buying
2x 20kW Fronius 20.0-3-M with
3x Multiplus 2 5000VA inverter (one on each phase).
One fronius will be connected between grid and ac-in, the other (with max. 15kWp pv attached) to ac-out of the multis.
Will this comply with the factor 1.0 rule?
Will BOTH of the fronius inverters feed back to the grid, when the grid is available and the battery is full?
[image]We are 1 month old DIY Wizards seeking wisdom from the masters, I hope this diagram is appropriate to post here, if not I’ll remove. Im very excited to study such a new and expansive field of life. Mega fuses will be in the Lynx and some of these breakers may be removed. I’m currently studying BMS and current candidates are REC, Batrium, Smart123, and Orion.