I'm using - and loving - the VRM portal, live controlling my installation (the new layout is great).
As I must spare any lost watt, I'm often switching on&off my multiplus C. Somebody knows if, in the future, it would be possible doing it directly on the main page, without opening the console?
That would be awesome !
My system is grid tied.
However, when the power fails, the inverter immediately turns itself off
After the grid is restored, it can take up to 4 minutes before the inverter starts again, during which time I have no power.
This is incredibly infuriating, but I am certain it is just a setting
other than that it works well
Any suggestions as to where to start.
Is there a way of using the cerbo gx to remotely switch a 12v fridge on so when we get to the boat it’s chilled down.
Or is there another way via the Wi-Fi on the boat.
I want to add an AC sensing automatic transfer switch to manage the Main AC IN/Inverter AC OUT of the Multiplus II in order to take full advantage of ESS.
I noticed the VE Transfer Switch is meant for 220/230VAC. I'm using 120V AC in and Out. Can the victron transfer switch be used for 120 50A.
If not, what do people recommend. Preferably, I want to be able to carry 50A on a single 120 leg (wire cross-section appropriate.)
I notice in the various Victron produced circuit diagrams for the Lynx system, they never put a main system switch before the Lynx distribution system/Lynx Smart BMS, however most actual people building seem to fit a physical switch between the battery and the Lynx.
Is there a reason why I should fit a physical switch?
I’m assuming people don’t like relying on the software controlled contactor In the Lynx Smart BMS?
Is this just aversion to change, or is there a good reason such as a regulatory requirment?
Just wondering if anyone would be able to help with a quick technical question or point me in the right direction.
I’ve just purchased a Victron Filax 2 automatic transfer switch. In Australia we run at 50Hz, however I’m finding the selection between 50Hz and 60Hz a little confusing in the Filax 2 manual from the website.
I’ve attached the relevant page here - Filax 2 - 50Hz to 60Hz selection.pdf.
The first point appears to make sense, suggesting if the frequency is 50Hz remove the jumper or place it on one pin. Also, that this is the default position from the factory, which all makes sense. The second point then states if the frequency is 60Hz place the jumper on both pins, again this all make sense.
However, the images below then go on to show two images with captions (Jumper placed = 50Hz ……………….. Jumper not placed = 60Hz) which I read as being the opposite to the two initial points above.
I may well have missed something so hoping someone can help me out.
In the next phase of my victron setup I plan to order a transfer switch. In the preperation I try to finde documentation / configuration video / training video in how to configure the transfer switch.
In my setup I have a multiplus II with a battery and on AC1 OUT I plan to connect my entire electricity board and PV panels.
Whe the battery becomes too low, the transfer switch should switch back to the grid (PV panels should stay on the multiplus AC1 OUT)
I want to understand and know how to set this up.
Anybody uses the VE Transfer Switch? I'm wondering if I'm reading correctly that you have an auxilary contact that enables you to switch power sources using another device? It's not automatic, correct?
we have a setup where batteries are the main supply and then a generator is supplied once we reach a state of charge of 30%. we are using quattro 48/15000/200.
we seem to be having issues where when the system switches back to the batteries we have a blip in power causing interruptions to kit. is there a way to alter the any settings to stop this interuption.
we have already tried the UPS function to no avail.
I have a small sail boat with a 70ah lithium battery which is connected to a switch panel and has a disconnect switch adjacent to the battery which is on the active wire. All that is connected to the battery is a chartplotter, radio and a few led lights. There is no engine, no alternator, no inverter etc - very simple. I use the disconnect switch to isolate the battery when I leave the boat.
I am now in the process of adding a 70w flexible solar panel, with a Victron mppt 75/10 smartcontroller. Normally the solar panel will top up the battery while I’m away. Normally I will disconnect the panel when I come to the boat to get it out of the way. When the sail is over I will reconnect the pv and go home. But sometimes, like today, I want to disconnect the panels and leave the boat for a week or more. I am worried about leaving the controller connected to the battery and fear it will run it down. It is impractical to disconnect the controller at either the controller or the battery end. I am thinking I would like to put a switch in the negative between controller and battery. Is this okay to do and/or is there a smarter way to do it? I figure this must be a common issue and potential set-up but I can’t fi d anything on it here. Thanks very much for your help.
I have a Multiplus 24/5000 I'm just about to install. Reading through the quick installation guide, the order seems to be:
The guide specifically shows no switch between the battery and the Multiplus (it does show a fuse holder, but with a fuse already fitted). This means, as I understand it, that from step (3) onwards, it is possible that the unit will be live at 240v and step (7) is therefore potentially dangerous.
Is this right?
If this isn't right and the main battery should be switched, then could somebody advise what the correct sequence of powering the unit up is (i.e. battery and then AC-In, or vice-versa)?
Also, the quick installation guide makes no mention of pre-charging the Multiplus (and neither does any other document I can find). Is this necessary before the unit is powered?
Thanks in advance,
I am using the Victron 12/12 30A DC-DC Charger in a truck & truck camper installation - 2 FLA batteries in the truck, 1 large LiFePO4 battery in the camper.
If I use the H-pin and install a switch on the alternator side, is the unit still isolated if I turn the vehicle OFF with the switch in the ON position? My purpose for installing the switch is to allow me to turn off charging when in a heavy load situation, or to use monitoring tools to see the impact of the charger as compared to OFF.
Effectively, when the engine is off I do want the two battery sets ISOLATED and the DC-DC Charger OFF, without having to flip the switch to OFF.
Just so I'm getting this Correct the "L" pin Supplies a 3.3v Live, When the "H" pin Receives a voltage of 3v or higher it turns the device on, and less the 3V it turns the device off? If this is the case could I Ignore the "L" pin on the devices and Wire a 12V live from the Battery into the COM port of the Relay and then just Parallel the "H" pins from the NC relay port. when the Relay in the BMW is normally closed the charger & MPPT would be ON, when the low temperature triggers ( or any other trigger ) , it will open the relay which would turn off the Charger and MPPT ( and prevent my lithium battery is charging when cold and my Batteries internal BMS doesn't have low temperature charge cut off ) ￼
Hello, I just installed the VE switch between my house /Grid power and the 3 KW inverter. It does however not switch under any circumstances over to grid power when available. I measured many times and the power is definitely available from the inverter and the grid. Manual switching with K11 or K2 does not work either. It always stays on inverter power for the output.
I also noticed that indicator led is not illuminated on K=1 and K22
Switching off the inverter does not force to switch to grid. Any thoughts?
I plan to program a relay to turn the inverter 3000 (Phoenix,Quattro) on/off maybe more than once a day depending on the load. Will the internal switch be ok to support it or it will wear out and break soon?