Hi all,

I have a small fishing boat with the house load (12V at average load about 2-3A) supplied by the starter battery (conventional, not lithium). There is a separate 24V circuit (2 x 12V 100Ah lithium in series) to run the electric trolling motor. To reduce the risk of the starter battery charge getting run down by the house load, I'm planning to add a 24/12-9A Isolated Dc-Dc Converter to keep the starter battery topped up. In effect the house load will be supplied from the 24V system via the converter. I can protect the starter battery without the need for a dedicated 12V house battery.

Sketch of proposed setup below.

Questions:

1. Do I need the to fuse the input and output of the 24/12 converter? (am thinking only on output, since input is already fused)
2. Does the converter need to be turned off before starting the outboard? (I assume not)
3. Will the outboard alternator and the 24/12 converter play nicely with each other? (I assume yes)
4. Optimum output voltage to set the converter output (I was thinking around "float" voltage i.e. 13-13.5V)

Thanks in advance.

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I am using a Victron 500w (12v) inverter on my boat to power Starlink. It all works fine until I power up the Diesel engines on my boat, and then the Starlink dish goes offline—but the wifi router does not. I suspect there is some interference but have not been able to troubleshoot it.

Hi all. I have a customer who has had 4x Sterling 100Ah LiFePo4 batteries on a boat which have their own BMS which has been installed by others and not very well it seems, and I've been given the mop to clean it up and get it all working. I've installed a couple of the full Victron LiFePo4 systems with the original Multiplus range and installed the assistant, VE. BMS, remote panel and AC mains detector all good. The question I have here is, with the new Multi's this AC mains detector is no longer needed and I assume once you load the assistant it does it's thing and once the batteries disconnect with low voltage, the Multi senses this and kicks in the mains and starts charging the batteries. is there a work around here using third party Lithium batteries with their own non Victron BMS and the AC detector to work? Huge thanks Justin

My wife and I took the plunge and bought a 1984 Roughwater Trawler for live-aboard (Semi-retirement). It needs a major upgrade when it comes to the electrical side of things that's for sure. So far I have made a list of the upgrades I'd like to make.

MultiPlus II 12/3000

Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30A (360W) Isolated DC-DC charger

Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150|70

Lynx Distributor

Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor

Smart Battery Protect 100A

Galvanic Isolator VDI-32

Cerbo GX

GX Touch 50

6x 200W Solar Panels

3x 200Ah AGM Batteries

Now the List that i'm going by currently is from 3000w INVERTER | 400-600Ah | 400 TO 1200W SOLAR-CAMPER by Explorist.life website. I have noticed some wiring diagrams with a battery Isolator and some without when it comes to the Home battery and starter battery. With me using the Isolated Orion do I need to get the battery isolator as well or no?

Hello,

I am designing an upgraded electrical system for my 32' sailboat to LiFePo4 batteries with built-in BMS. If anyone would be willing to review/provide feedback, I would really appreciate it. This design does not incorporate a multi-plus that is in many of the example designs. This is due to limited space, but if it's required please let me know, and maybe I can cram it in somewhere! Thanks!

My main question is how to best control the Orion so that I don't drain the starter battery. I have a Cerbo GX (not shown), maybe this can monitor the starter voltage to shut it off below a certain voltage? Or I could wire a manual switch to turn it on when the engine is running I guess too.

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I am on a Lagoon 2013 catamaran and was wondering if anybody has configured NMEA2000 integration between a Cerbo GX and an older Raymarine system running Lighthouse II (ie., no Glassbridge software)? If so was it worth the cost and effort? #LighthouseII

I'm not sure how to ask my question.

I have this equipment, installed by the boat builder:

1. Victron Energy Blue Power MultiPlus 12 VOLT 3000 VA 120 AMP charger inverter.
2. MPPT Solar Charge Controller.
3. Whisper Power Belt Driven Generator W-BD 3.5.
4. The boat has a 47 HP Beta marine engine and two solar panels on the roof.

Item 3, the Belt Driven Generator, periodically displays a fault message that is not in the manual:

0V 0.0A 0.0KW OVER DC BUS

It happens when I run a 1600 watt clothes-washing machine. The boat builder told me the system would handle this.

I have asked two marine engineers, who are not sure what's wrong. I don't know the terminology nor the relative importance of things, so I don't know what questions to ask. So my question is very general: "Is this something that needs to be fixed? What do I need to know?"

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Thanks in advance, and sorry if my question is incomplete. I'm doing the best I can. :)

Here is what I have:

2 Yamaha 200's (50 amp Alternator Output each)

2 Optima Bluetop D31M Starter Batteries (75 AH, 900 CCA)

BEP Smart Battery Hub

Here is what I want to accomplish:

House battery setup - Either 1 Relion 12v 100 Amp lithium battery or 2 Relion 12v 60 Amp batteries in parallel

Charge the house bank via an Orion DC-DC Converter, but i have no clue which one.

Possibly a 400w REDARC inverter for phone charing and light loads like that.

How do I accomplish this? I have no clue where to even start?

I’ve found versions of this question unanswered in these forums. It is not answered in the manual so no need to post a link. Since I’m using this on a boat it’s is important to know for avoiding stray-current issues. Are the AC and DC sides of the the transformer isolated?

I built a pontoon boat with a 48V outboard and the SLAs were not getting the job done so we are changing to lithium. I am adding a cobbled together solar charging system and was planning to mount the BlueSolar PWM 48V 30A inside the console. Will this work? If not, will a small daylight source (a hole) work?