My wife and I took the plunge and bought a 1984 Roughwater Trawler for live-aboard (Semi-retirement). It needs a major upgrade when it comes to the electrical side of things that's for sure. So far I have made a list of the upgrades I'd like to make.
MultiPlus II 12/3000
Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30A (360W) Isolated DC-DC charger
Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150|70
Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor
Smart Battery Protect 100A
Galvanic Isolator VDI-32
GX Touch 50
6x 200W Solar Panels
3x 200Ah AGM Batteries
Now the List that i'm going by currently is from 3000w INVERTER | 400-600Ah | 400 TO 1200W SOLAR-CAMPER by Explorist.life website. I have noticed some wiring diagrams with a battery Isolator and some without when it comes to the Home battery and starter battery. With me using the Isolated Orion do I need to get the battery isolator as well or no?
I am designing an upgraded electrical system for my 32' sailboat to LiFePo4 batteries with built-in BMS. If anyone would be willing to review/provide feedback, I would really appreciate it. This design does not incorporate a multi-plus that is in many of the example designs. This is due to limited space, but if it's required please let me know, and maybe I can cram it in somewhere! Thanks!
My main question is how to best control the Orion so that I don't drain the starter battery. I have a Cerbo GX (not shown), maybe this can monitor the starter voltage to shut it off below a certain voltage? Or I could wire a manual switch to turn it on when the engine is running I guess too.
I am on a Lagoon 2013 catamaran and was wondering if anybody has configured NMEA2000 integration between a Cerbo GX and an older Raymarine system running Lighthouse II (ie., no Glassbridge software)? If so was it worth the cost and effort? #LighthouseII
I'm not sure how to ask my question.
I have this equipment, installed by the boat builder:
Item 3, the Belt Driven Generator, periodically displays a fault message that is not in the manual:
0V 0.0A 0.0KW OVER DC BUS
It happens when I run a 1600 watt clothes-washing machine. The boat builder told me the system would handle this.
I have asked two marine engineers, who are not sure what's wrong. I don't know the terminology nor the relative importance of things, so I don't know what questions to ask. So my question is very general: "Is this something that needs to be fixed? What do I need to know?"
Thanks in advance, and sorry if my question is incomplete. I'm doing the best I can. :)
Here is what I have:
2 Yamaha 200's (50 amp Alternator Output each)
2 Optima Bluetop D31M Starter Batteries (75 AH, 900 CCA)
BEP Smart Battery Hub
Here is what I want to accomplish:
House battery setup - Either 1 Relion 12v 100 Amp lithium battery or 2 Relion 12v 60 Amp batteries in parallel
Charge the house bank via an Orion DC-DC Converter, but i have no clue which one.
Possibly a 400w REDARC inverter for phone charing and light loads like that.
How do I accomplish this? I have no clue where to even start?
I’ve found versions of this question unanswered in these forums. It is not answered in the manual so no need to post a link. Since I’m using this on a boat it’s is important to know for avoiding stray-current issues. Are the AC and DC sides of the the transformer isolated?
I am using a Victron 500w (12v) inverter on my boat to power Starlink. It all works fine until I power up the Diesel engines on my boat, and then the Starlink dish goes offline—but the wifi router does not. I suspect there is some interference but have not been able to troubleshoot it.
I built a pontoon boat with a 48V outboard and the SLAs were not getting the job done so we are changing to lithium. I am adding a cobbled together solar charging system and was planning to mount the BlueSolar PWM 48V 30A inside the console. Will this work? If not, will a small daylight source (a hole) work?