I have a SmartShunt and a lithium battery that is charged by an Orion 12-12/30 charger and the SmartShunt shows 100% SOC but nothing else. I’m sure it is wired correctly as I followed the instructions exactly. What can be causing this problem? Can the Orion charger interfere with the SmartShunt readings if they are mounted to close together?
So there are a couple possibilities which could cause this to happen. The first could be physical installation related and the second could be the initial configuration. The easiest and most accurate way to get you up and running is if its possible, could you post a screenshot of the first status screen after you select and connect to the SmartShunt in the Victron Connect App, as well as a screenshot of the battery settings page where you initially configured all of the battery size and capacities during set-up. And lastly a photo of the physical wiring and mounting of the SmartShunt and the Orion.
A common problem is to have the charger(s) connected to the battery negative not the shunt's load/system side. NOTHING goes on the battery negative except the connection to the shunt battery negative input.
You didn't mention what your loads are. If there are no loads in your system there won't be anything to reduce the SOC from 100%.
If the battery is full and the internal BMS has shut it off from charging then there will be no current flowing into or out of the battery. The Orion will supply close to 400W of power which is enough to run 2 small fridges if it can take power from somewhere. Shut the Orion off and let the battery run the fridges and see what happens. Then if you see a discharge current then you know thst is working. When the SOC drops down then turn the Orion back on and watch the battery charge up.
Check voltages with and without the Orion on. Check continuity in all wiring.
Check the fuse in the positive wire for the shunt and make sure it's plugged into the power input and not the aux input.
As far as battery sizing, you'll need to figure out how much power the fridges consume and how long they are on. Power will tell you the number of watts your battery needs to supply which can be converted to amps (watts / voltage). Also compute the watt hours or amp-hours needed: power or current for the time you need to run on battery. Say the fridges draw 100 watts and they run 30% of the time. That's 100 watts or 100/12=8.3 amps. 100 watts for one day is 100 * 24 * 30%=720 watt-hours or 60 amp-hours. Remember you can only draw down a lead-acid battery about 50% so you'd need a 120 AH battery.
OK so you were running on the Orion only. You need to connect to the Bluetooth on the Amped battery with whatever app thet use to try and diagnose what is happening with that. Also as noted above, measure the terminal voltage on the battery. Has the BMS shut down and needs to be reset. Has the battery been fully discharged. Do Amped have a battery recovery method to switch the BMS back on. You may not get detailed help on this particular model on this forum as it will depend on someone coming along who knows that battery type.
I would suspect maybe a fuse has blown, loose cable, or there is another switch that is isolating the battery. Even a dead battery will draw some current.
Here is the first status screen:
Here is the mounting and wiring setup:
I have 2 small refrigerators dedicated to this battery.
