i have an all Victron off-grid system
Cerbo GX + Display
Victron DC shunt
(3) SimpliPhi 3.8 batteries @ 48V
I posess a basic knowledge set regarding electricity and such. i "designed" and installed this system myself - and it has performed flawlessly and to the specs which i targeted ...
QUESTION: What does "100%" mean ?
Can anyone explain (or point me to an article or treatise) that explains what the Cerbo Display unit is telling me as it relates to the "ACTUAL" status of my battery supply -
this morning i awoke early - just in time to hear a click and my entire system switched off/went dark...
(i subsequently figured out that my well pump had malfunctioned and run all night - fixed that problem promptly)
hmmmm. unplugged from my Victron system and dusted off my gen set so i could muddle through breakfast
as sun crested the horizon my Victron system started to "wake up"
one it had awoken - the display Showed 43.7 V (low) yet it also said "100%" in big happy numbers...
As i sit here and type this it is happily recharging, Voltage back up to 52.1V and its packin in 20A from the MPPT.
I can be awfully stupid - but i always remind people that i'm not as dumb as i look -
In the past i recall the %percentage%" battery level goin up and down with loads and charging -
how am i to understand batteries that are basically depleted low voltage (down to 43%) yet my fancy Cerbo Display is showing me an unwavering "100%".
What am i missing ? is there a way to understand this or is the display or shunt borked?
i would really like to be able to "trust the display" when it proclaims 78% that i actually have 78% of my usable Ah avail for all my fancy off grid amenities...
any thoughts or redirects to a knowledge base would be greatly appreciated
/Steve (Panda_North Photon Collective)
I have three 100ah AGM batteries in my campervan. I've used them for 2 years.
(also a 390w solar panel, victron mppt and battery monitor)
Recently, staying in Portugal with high temps, although I've reached 100% battery each day, by morning I'm at 75 or 80%. My fridge tries to start up, runs for a few seconds then stops. When this happens, it takes my batteries from 12.17V to 10.99.
When there's enough light on my solar panel the fridge runs fine.
Being agm batteries, I can use 50% of their capacity. Its frustrating to be at 80% but still not have a working fridge!
Would new batteries help? I don't recall having this problem before, so I'm guessing they just aren't holding their charge as well as before.
In this design example, a Sterling DC to DC converter is used to charge a lithium house bank with the Start battery as the "Source". So for example, if we are charging the Lithium Bank at 60Amps over 3hrs, how is this justified when a Start battery is not designed to provide high current over a long period of time?
I have a motorhome with two 12v 110ah leisure batteries. I have no idea how old the leisure batteries are, the motorhome is 20 years old and still operating on the original charger! I suspect the charger wasn't designed to maintain two leisure batteries and this is why I purchased a Victron Energy Blue Smart IP22 Charger 1230(3) 230V charger.
It became clear the existing leisure batteries weren't lasting as long as they should powering mainly LED devices. I did what many do and replaced the batteries with new.
I've used the Victron Energy Blue Smart IP22 Charger to condition (Normal Condition) the old batteries and everything seems to have proceeded without issues BUT, how can I be sure the old batteries have been restored to a good/original capacity? I that the purpose of 'conditioning'?
Any comments/tips would be most welcome :)
Apparently, as part of the setup, you can enter your battery capacity (in my case, 210Ah).
Every time the charging current drops to a low value, the battery is deemed as being fully charged and the charging status is set to 100%.
It sounds as if, even if your battery capacity has dropped to,say, 50Ah, the monitor will still say 100%.
How can you see that your battery has lost capacity?
Hello from the southern french Alps!
In my house, my 12 OPZS batteries have been in use for 10 years. I think they should be equalized somehow. I tried:
Shoul I dare set veconfigure to tube traction batteries or is there any other solution?
Hi, I'm currently in the process of building a 3kwp pv system. Im not sure how many batteries I will need. The batteries need to be either 12v or 24v if possible. Thankyou.
Hello [Victron Staff] and @Alexandra ,
I recently installed a backup system consisting of a Multiplus 48-5000/70-100 with 12 Gel batteries of 200Ah each, for a total capacity of 600Ah-48V, the multiplus automatically starts a 13KVA generator when the load exceeds 3500W, and the customer wants to reduce its fuel consumption by increasing the power of the inverter.
The problem is that I noticed that the customer's load very often goes from 2600 to 7000W when he turns on the microwave, as well as all his air conditioners, even if it lasts only a few minutes, and this produces a strong drop voltage in the batteries (High DC ripple)leading to the starting of the genset.
The section of the cables between the inverter and the batteries had been well respected during the installation, this means that the voltage drop cannot be caused by an insufficient cable cross-section and leads me to believe that the batteries are small compared to the load.
What formula can I use to calculate the current drawn from the batteries when the load is high(7500W), and thus determine the optimal capacity of the batteries?
I thank you in advance for your quick reply.
My 2019 (from former boat owner) purchased 2 x 200 Ah LifePo4 Victron batteries have a significant reduced capacity. Bulk-Charging from landline via Philippi charger and solar bulk charging take forever. The maximum capacity is terminated at 280 Ah in sum of both batteries. The B2B system to an AGM is working fine. The alternator charger (Sterling) from the vessel's diesel to the starter is fine as well.
How can I locate the problem within the batteries? If there is a problem, who can be contacted at Victron, since the batteries worked perfectly the last 2 seasons...
I have 4 strings of 4x65AH battery's can i ad a string of 4x100AH battery's to increase the total capacity for my ESS system MultiPlus II 48v 3000VA
The battery's a SUN Battery SB12-65 (12V65AH) and SB12-100 (12V100AH)
Just installed a BMV 712 on a ”house bank” of 2 deep cycle AGM Firefly’s in parallel. Just learning how to use the system but it appears that the “battery percentage” indication doesn’t go down as power is used. The Bluetooth app shows the number of amps being used...it also shows a negative value when I turn on the battery charger. But after disconnecting from shore power and leaving my fridge and water heater running the battery percentage is still at 100%. Could anyone help out with an idea as to why this might be. Much appreciated. Thanx.....
Am I correct in thinking:
I can keep adding to my battery bank capacity (Ah) as long as its 12 or 48 V and I don`t need it recharged fast with the current MPPT 100/20 Victron charge controller and the limit is how many panels I can add (up to 300W for MPPT100/20)?
I`m planning to increased my Battery Bank Capacity (add a second bank) from 160 to 580 Ah as I was given 2 X 210 Ah Lead Acid Batteries for free, but at the same time don`t want to damage my Victron 100/20...
ich habe Probleme mit 2 Victron GEL Batterien 220 Ah. Die wurden im Juli 2018 in einen Wohnwagen eingebaut. Seit März 2020 haben beide Batterien nur noch eine Kapazität von ca. 10 %. Getestet wurde mit einem professionellen Batterietestgerät, das über mehrere Tage definiert die Batterien auflädt und entlädt und dann die Kapazität berechnet.
Beide Batterien haben jeweils einen Victron Solar-Laderegler 100/50 und ein jeweils eigenes Victron Ladegerät 12-25. Sie sind auch nicht hart parallel geschaltet, sondern über einen Victron Combiner zusammengeführt, so dass ich Querströme ausschließen kann.
Die Solaranlage liefert 850 Wp, so dass immer genug Nachladung zur Verfügung stand. Der Wohnwagen wird ganzjährig bewohnt. Solange der fest steht (98% des Jahres), hängt der am Landstrom, so dass auch die Victron Ladegeräte die Batterien stets voll gehalten haben. Es hat bei einigen wenigen Fahrten im Winter mal eine Entladetiefe auf ca 70% gegeben, also weit entfernt von den 50% entnehmbarer Kapazität. Gemessen wurde dies über zwei Victron BMV.
Jetzt hat mir der Händler mitgeteilt, dass jeder Kalendertag einen Zyklus darstellt, und die Victron GEL Batterien nur eine Zyklen-Lebensdauer von 600 - 700 Zyklen haben. Das würde ja bedeuten, dass Victron GEL Batterien ganz generell nicht in Solaranlagen tauglich sind, wo sie jeden Tag mit Sonnenaufgang einen neuen Zyklus beginnen.
Wer kann mir was dazu sagen? Alle 2 Jahre zwei neue GEL-Batterien von Victron zu kaufen ist mir zu teuer. Wenn die auch nicht länger halten, als billige Batterien vom Discounter, warum dann Victron?
I currently have 37 panels feeding two 5.0 kW inverters with 4 MPPT total. Different position and size panels force me to have all strings covered. During the day I have between 60 to 80% of my power needs covered (on grid installation).
My problem comes once the sun goes, where I have nevertheless some consumption that I want to sort it out. The usage ranges from 250 to 500W on a constant basis, so I thought of getting a simple inverter/charger and one Pylontech 48V 2.4kWh, with no panel attachment; the battery would be charged during the day and if the Pylontech runs out of juice I would then allow the grid to take over.
What do you suggest I use as an inverter and how well do you think a single Pylontech will cope with that small consumption?
I have a 200Ah lead acid battery so 200 is entered into my BVM-712. Is the battery percentage display showing 100% (fully charged state) to 0% completely dead and probably ruined? or is it smart enough to show 0% as 100 amps have been used (50% of total amps and probably down to 12.2v)? If the display shows 0% as completely dead and ruined, should I set the battery capacity to 100 instead if I want 0% to be displayed when 50% of the total amps have been used?
My system is ~3 months old and has been working well through our NZ summer, but, on cloudy days the battery voltage drops into the <50% SoC range. With winter coming up, I am trying to prioritise between adding battery capacity or adding panels. My sense is that it's 'now or never' for battery because I hear that new batteries adopt the 'age' of existing batteries.
My question is, what information produced by the system should lead me to decide on more batteries or more panels? Hoping someone can help...
My off grid system comprises:
Our power draw averages around 250 W 24x7 plus 30 W for the EasySolar II GX itself. VRM says over last 30 days, consumption has been 171 kWh and production 192 kWh. I haven't found anywhere that VRM (or the remote console) tells me "but production would be higher by X if you had more storage".
Hope someone with more experience can help.
What can cause using batteries with this charger with smaller capacity than minimum adviced by manual (minimum 150Ah, we use one set - 24v 560A 70Ah and second set with second charger - 24v 815A 50Ah)? Last time the working time of this kind of batteries is about 1year, after charge starts fall down, should I adjust any of float/equalize/boost charging time? Thank You
I build 3 DYI jehugarcia (youtube) 18650 battery packs, each pack consist of 9 times 7x18650 cells with a 24v output. So, in total 63 cells. Each 18650 has an average 2400mAh.
So, in a grand total I have 3 packs of 63c = 189 cells.
Each pack has it’s own BMS and they are charged by a Victron 100/30 MPPT Solar charge controller. A BMV 702 keeps an eye on things and a Raspberry PI with VictronOS on it to log statistics to a VRM dashboard.
All well so far and after weeks of charging and discharging the cells are still very much balanced. A Victron Battery Protect as a measure to prevent to low a discharge and opens at float voltage to keep the MPPT as maximum power. Basically, this pack functions as an equalizer as the total capacity isn’t enough for off-grid purposes. (In The Netherlands we have clouds now and then with the sun disappearing).
The issue I have is to calculate the correct total Ah settings in the BMV shunt. I think each pack of 9 has a 21Ah capacity, so a total 63Ah. But the key question is, did I calculate it correctly?
Hope one of you can assist.
My lead battery (12 OPzS) is getting old (9 years). I am figuring out how to evaluate its actual capacity. The steps would be:
I will not try to evaluate the voltage: not accurate. The electrolyte density should be enough
Any other method?
I have a van that I am building out and trying to straighten some things out in my system as I design for kitchen.
I am hitting a lot of points where the inverter just won't budge though. Sometimes I'll be at a good charge say 75 - 80% of capacity and the inverter light will switch to "low battery" when I turn on the 1k watt hot water kettle. Really, at 1kW? No go. If I start the car, the kettle works. I haven't even bought the induction stove yet since I'm running into these issues.
I saw somewhere that potentially I would need at least 3 x 100ah batteries just to give enough current to the 3K W Inverter to do its thing. Is that right??
I'm hesitant to drop another $1k on a battery, although I would do it if it let me run my whole setup with the induction stove smoothly. It starts to worry me though that maybe I couldn't fill the 300ah battery bank fully with only 400W of solar. I've heard good rule of thumb is 200W solar per 100ah battery charge. I have enough room on the roof for another 50V panel..maaaybe 100W. So I'd be at 450W-500W, not the ideal 2:1 ratio. I do have an Orion that charges while I drive... so there is that. I would hardly ever be parked anywhere for days on end without moving. This is mostly a family extended trip mobile. Going for several days up to 2 months at a time remote work/travel trips. I also have a shore power hookup but don't plan on relying on that for steady refill, more of an emergency backup thing if in a pinch.
The other option would be to just swap out the 3k W inverter charger for the smaller 2k W inverter charger - if that is in fact a more appropriate current draw on 200ah batteries- not buy another battery, and just go propane setup for the kitchen stove instead of the induction stove. Thoughts? What say ye?
I want to have a common DC bus for powering a system. We already have a battery bank that has been working for a couple years and we are adding a new battery bank for expansion. Can I include an Isolated Orion DC-DC at each battery bank prior to the Bus to couple all the loads in one bus?
So I have a small travel trailer with limited space for a battery. Have a Victron Solar controller and SmartShunt but looking for a better capacity battery than the cheap one that it came with. Draw is a handful of LED lights, USB ports etc - no need for large current draw but capacity and lifespan are king
The current battery box is 280x175x244mm so want to look for something that sits inside the same footprint
I am looking at the BAT412110081 AGM Super Cycle or the BAT412600104 Deep Cycle Gel as the two that will fit.
Which would people recommend as the better choice and which has the larger capacity?
Thanks in advance for the help!
Hi, this may be obvious, but I've got to ask...
I have a 12v battery bank consisting of 4x 6V, 200AH, AGM batteries.
I have 2x2 connected in series to form 12v, then these blocks of two are connected in parallel - giving a 12v system.
My question is: What is the total AH size of my battery bank. Is it simply the combined total of all batteries? ie 4x200AH=800AH
Or is it the size of only those in parallel? ie 2x200AH-400AH?
what settings do i need to use to get these results? I am lucky if i get 10Ah charged in a day
I'm struggling to understand batteries, I have a small solar installation SmartSolar 100/30, SmartShunt and Smart battery protector in exhibition trailer which is currently being used as test rig, I was using two Flooded leisure batteries in parallel 220AH effective. I Run a 3.9A (Lights and network switch) I calculate that at 3.9A (4A.) 220AH/4 which I estimate should run for 55hrs, runs for about 2hrs before the BatteryProtect kicks in.
I have purchased AGM battery for testing cos I'm looking at replacing my 2 x 110AH flooded leisure batteries with VE 110AH AGM batteries in a slightly more complex installation in the camper and wanted to do some comparisons.
I am thinking the flooded batteries are no longer serviceable although the indicator display is green on both.
The 110AH AGM battery I would estimate 110AH/4 = 27hrs running time and not even coming close to that. What sort of running time would you normally expect with such load?
What is the maximum discharge point for AGM batteries? 80% AGM and 50% for flooded, but other websites saying 50% for AGM and 80% for flooded, which is correct?
What setting for battery protect would you recommend?
Thanyou in advance
I have bought a lifepo4 12.8V 40Ah battery from an unknown but experienced manufacturer for a small project, that was not too expensive to wake the kraken and dragon of my spouse.
It came at 13,33V and looked very tame.
I charged it with a blue smart ip65 12/15 charger on lithium configuration and low current (4A) instead of 15A to wake it up softly.
The manufacturer prescribes a CCCV load profile with cut off voltages of 14,6v high to 10V low. But Victron thinks that 10V is too low. They told me to cut off at 12,5V. And load with 14,2V.
I think Victron uses a more conservative load profile. Maybe to protect the battery from unballanced cells in these high limits? Is that right? Or does that have another reason? Lifepo4 is lifepo4 right?
The first charging got to 14,2V for a little while, but then very quickly started ballancing at 13.5V. Is that normal?
So now the battery is 13,5V... Which is good I guess for storing the battery? When I look at a voltage chart of 12V Lifepo4, that is about 90%SOC? I have enough capacity to do what I want, so that's ok.
But I need to calibrate an Aili battery monitor (I know it might be rubbish but I want a little experiment). So when the battery is 100%, I have to tell the monitor by pushing a button that it's 100%SOC. But how do I know whether the battery is completely charged at 100%? On the voltage charts of lifepo4 I see that 13,5V is not 100%, but the smart charger brings the voltage automatically to 13.5V, and I don't want to start messing with the configurated values...
I also have a smart battery sense, a smart battery protect on load side, a battery protect on charge side, and an mppt 75/15 for a solar module when I install everything. Some are new, some were of a previous AGM project (that's why the chargers are 15A, instead of 10A which would be preferable for a 40Ah battery). But without a shunt, these victron appliances can't determine the SOC, so they can't help me either, although they all blink very willingly.
Any suggestions to educate me on this and protect my precious investment from my erratic ignorance, and help me to set this battery monitor please?
Would it calibrate itself when the battery reaches full capacity again? Even when the voltage drops again to 13,5 V?
Usually battery manufactures can provide a chart showing a battery's resting voltage to state of charge. I'm looking for that information for a Victron Lead Carbon 160Ah battery. I've looked at the Datasheet but it doesn't have that information.
ich habe 4 Smart Batterien in Reihe über eine BMS angeschlossen. Diese sind mit dem Quattro und dem Can VU GX verbunden. Auf dem Display kann ich alle Daten sehen aus die Ladung der Batterien, was muss ich einstellen um dies zu sehen?