I have a RS450/100 that is about a year old and started to make a very high pitch sound while charging. It's not excessively loud but very noticeable nonetheless. It started doing this in the last month or two.
Is this something to worry about, as a prelude to future issues, and have it looked at by a certified installer or ignore just it?
in my father's house I have installed the Multi RS solar on PylonTech barltteries. thanks to other users in the forum I have managed it to make it running. if there is consumption on the deducted AC output, unfortunately the system prefers to switch directly to the grid and ignores the full batteries. only if ACin is switched off and the system is disconnected from the grid, it switches to the batteries.
I can imagine that this mode makes sense in mobile homes or in a boat. In my parents house it makes no sense this way and I have to put down the fire manually each time I want to use the batteries.
is there a setting that I haven't seen in the software? can someone please give me a hint?
thanks again to the community!
I've had my system set up for a year now. No problems. Using CerboGX with Touch50, Smart Solar 250/100, Multiplus 48/5000 and a battery bank of 4 Pylontech US3000.
Looks like I've encountered my first hiccup. I have the touch screen display for my cerboGX, and check it every so often. Today I noticed the MPPT was not sending any more electricity to the batteries. It seemed to be treating 88% charged as if it were 100%. I confirmed this by running a pump in the house. The sun was shining outside. When the pump was on, I could read the (-) amp draw from the battery bank, and when the pump cycled off, the MPPT compensated accordingly and sent an equivalent amount back to the batteries, until it reached a full 88% charge again. Battery health on the monitor states 99%.
I certainly haven't changed any settings lately. Actually, I haven't made any modifications since the installation one year ago. The only thing I can think of that might be causing this is about a week ago, I was moving a floor fan in the room, and the back of it accidentally touched the switch on the inverter, which turned it off. I turned it back on promptly. Maybe I've been having this problem since then, but can't say, because today was the first day I payed attention to the display since then.
What do you think is causing the system to treat 88% charged as if it were 100% charged? It will not go above 88%. The six LED charging indicator lights on the front of the batteries also only show 5/6 lights illuminated.
The smart charger has been in bulk charging mode for several hours. When will it switch to the next phase? No information on this in the manual.
i have a victron orion tr smart isolated DC-DC charger and a victron smart solar mppt 100/30 installed...what i need to no is when driving and dc-dc is charging do i have to turn off the solar charger or is it ok to leave them both switched on
Hello, my charger has worked well over the years but I just discovered this strange behavior in full sunshine. Does anyone know what can cause this?
Having an issue where the charge controller tops off the batteries and does not go to absorption mode, it keeps charging until it hits 16.1 volts and causes the MultiPlus II 12/3000/120 to shut down. This is a new charge controller, the first one was a SmartSolar Charge Controller MPPT 100/30 and it did the same thing. The parameters for the charge controller are set for lithium phosphate batteries with changes to the charge 14.6 volts and the float to 13.8 volts.
ich habe im Wohnwagen das die Elektrik erweitert. Vorhanden ist eine AGM Batterie mit 140Ah, ein Lynx Power In für die DC Verteilung, ein Multiplus 12/800, ein Cerbo GX, ein Smart Shunt 500 und ein MPPT Regler 75/15
Die Sonne knallt und Landstrom ist angeschlossen - der Multiplus lädt die Batterie. Die Batterie ist voll, ich schalte den ersten Verbraucher ein - zack der Multiplus lädt sofort wieder voll los, obwohl die Sonne scheint und die Batterie lange nicht leer ist.
Wie kann ich das ändern? Kann ich einfach im Ladegerät vom Multiplus die Werte für Ladeschluss und Erhaltung so niedrig einstellen, dass sie nur für den Notfall reichen? Also 12,5V und 12,1V oder so ähnlich?
Gibt es bessere Ideen dazu?
Ich hatte die Suche benutzt, aber die Links dort funktionieren nicht mehr...
Ich würde mich über eine Antwort sehr freuen
[image]Hi, can you please explain to me why my battery's wont charge when the inverter is on? In the photo I have amps in at 9 A, and amps out is 4.83A. It seems the battery should be charging with the leftover energy. But it is not and the batteries continue to drain. The only way to charge the batteries is to turn the inverter off or plug into shore power. Even when all ac appliances in standby. The charger light on the inverter never comes on when I am unplugged from AC power. I'm trying to troubleshoot if there is something wrong with the hardware, settings or something else. Thanks for any help.
Is the 20 amp fuse on the Smart Solar Mppt 75/15 replaceable?
I cannot seem to be able to remove it, even though it looks accessible.
I reversed polarity to the battery and now the unit is not accepting charge from my solar panel - doh! Assume the fuse is fried. Unit is powering up and i can see it in the Connect app, but no charge is going to the battery.
I’m ready to buy a new unit but want to be able salvage the old unit if possible
Hi , despite having a very sunny day yesterday my battery protect switched my system down this morning , i appear to be getting false readings , sometimes when switching on the generator the system jumps from perhaps 80% to 100 & in an unbelievably short time
I have 2 solar arrays on my boat, 800 watts each through 2 x 100/50 mppt controllers.
4 x 200 a/h lithium ion batteries
BMV 702 battery monitor
Orion smart charge for alternator.
we live aboard our dutch barge and rarely move so rely on solar in the summer with occasional generator top ups.
My thoughts are the sytem is telling the solars its full and ramping down production when really its not.
can anybody advise of any settings to check please or any other wisdom that could solve my problem.
Thanks in anticipation
Apologies, this is a bit long, but I think necessary, in order to give you clever reders an understanding of the situation, hoping you’ll be able to help me:
My hydro turbine, running at absolute maximum speed gave 198V DC when totally unloaded, the water pressure in the line (96 psi) being as good as it gets. The 3-phase rectifiers I'd ordered hadn't arrived, so I had used the 2 rectifier method for getting the 3 phases into DC.
My Smart Solar 250/60 was “happily" doing the typical MPPT rollercoaster revs/voltage thing to the turbine, as the MPPT constantly played with the load. Fast, slow, fast slow.
I wrote to Victron, suggesting that they write a firmware update for hydro (these units are the most recommended ones for hydro generation that I've run across so far) with a button in the bluetooth setup for "Hydro", giving the option to adjust and set the load on the input, not just the output. Their repeated negative responses to my emails weren't the most humble ones I've ever received.
I had the Assistants in my main Easy Solar unit all set up (thanks Ben Stanton) to turn on a 1200W heater load when the SoC reached 98%, and off again when the SoC dropped to 85%.
All was good, the hydro was getting around 800W, until after a few hours, it suddenly spun up to full revs.
I closed the water valve as fast as I could, and discovered that not only had the 250/60 stopped, the entire lithium BYD battery box, and my main Easy Solar system had also crashed.
After an hour or so of trying to reboot everything, I finally figured it out - I got everything disconnected, and reset the batteries with their small reset button, reconnected the battery breaker to the Easy Solar unit, then the solar panels, and after getting AC supply back on (after numerous looping AC cutouts after 4 or 5 seconds, even while running just one 6W light bulb (batteries were about 45% SoC)) I finally got the AC on and stable again.
I reconnected the Smart Solar 250/60 to the battery again, checked the logs, found it had hit 260v and cut out. This was a mystery. How could it speed up past the no-load revs?? The only thing I can think of, is that the strange rectifier setup, combined with the 250/60 unit at the other end of the cable, conspired to give the turbine a little extra push. Or that the F&P motors have some kind of free energy ability… Anyway, I set the turbine spinning again with a bigger pair of water jets, less speed but more torque.
All was good again, until the the weather changed and the creek got low, so I turned off the hydro for a few weeks. The 3 phase rectifiers arrived, so I installed one in place of the 2 square rectifiers.
Just as I was soldering up the heavy red and black DC out wires from the rectifier, visitors arrived, and I hurriedly failed to squint carefully enough at the tiny + and - markings of the rectifier, getting the DC polarity reversed. Grrrr...
When I fired the hydro up, the Smart Charger got about 190v DC backwards across the PV in terminals, which killed it dead. I was kicking myself for not including a breaker both in and out of the unit. The same strange crowbar fault happened to the BYD Battery box again, taking out the whole system.
I went through the process of getting everything restarted, with the usual 4 sec AC cutout loops, etc. When I repeatedly failed to get any sort of response from the 250/60, and realising that the warranty was voided by my mistake with the wrong polarity, I opened up the case (took about a day and a half, involving chisels, drills, a big hole saw and grinder cutting disc, due to Victron’s obsession with epoxy resin) to see whether Victron had thought to include an internal fuse. There were 2, both blown, and the 6 big capacitors were all snapped off, and needed to be replaced, due to Victron thoughtfully encasing them in resin as well, so they’d be destroyed if someone managed to get the lid off. The Victron company plummeted drastically in my opinion that day... I couldn't see any other signs of damage, apart from some heat marks on the heatsink underneath the fuses.
Anyway, I replaced the capacitors, re-soldered the 3 other components also unseated by the resin, wired in external 20A fuses to both the input and output internal fuses, and hooked the unit back up to the battery. Clunk went the Easy Solar relay, and the whole system went down again, batteries and all as before.
I'm wondering if there is some sort of temporary “protection" short across the battery terminals?
The resistance across them is 0.1 Ohms. Same with the PV terminals.
Hooking up the unit to an old 12v battery with about 1mm cables there is a small to medium spark, and the cables slowly warm up. Is there any hope for my unit? Is there a way of resetting the unit without the bluetooth?
Easy solar was working perfectly, the 150/70 working perfectly too.
Then no PV charge at all.
Solar voltage is 101.13V
Solar Current is 0.0A
Battery is 51.03V
Battery Current is 0.0A
I’ve contacted the company from whom I purchased all the kit.
Their guy took a look at my Victron Connect and he can’t find any reason why it isn’t charging!!!!
He’s wanting me to remove the Blue solar and sent it to be independently tested.
Any help would be great fully received.
Thank you in advance
I am wanting to know if there is a way to turn just the inverter only off, but leave the charger on on the RS SmartSolar 48/6000?
I installed my new MPPT 100/20. Did the initial firmware update and blue tooth hook up. All good. I have an iPhone 12 Pro Max. But every time I go back down to my boat after a day or two. The only way that I can get the MPPT to connect with my phone is to unplug the power from the battery. My phone keep the info for the controller but it is like the control will not go into bluetooth send mode?
Any Ideals? It a real pain to have to get out the tools and disconnect the power to the control ever time.