question

Clayton Tompkins avatar image
Clayton Tompkins asked

Orion Smart DC-DC Charger Settings for Connection to 2018 Ford F250 Upfitter Switches

Summary of Issue:

Not always getting charge to my batteries, when I do, the VictronConnect app doesn't reflect the charging state or battery levels.

Details of Issue:

I have a truck camper on my 2018 Ford F250 with the heavy duty alternator and auxiliary upfitter switches. I've got everything running off of upfitter/AUX switch 1 which is rated for 25amps. Cabling is marine-grade 10/2 all the way to the Orion Smart 20amp DC-DC charge controller. I'm consistently always getting 14.7V input at the Charge Controller, but have different results/scenarios on the output voltage:

  1. I do not get output voltage to my batteries: this is after starting truck with AUX1-switch enabled, or, having truck run for a few minutes before enabling AUX1-switch. This is with Engine Shutdown Detection enabled and Input Voltage Lock-Out enabled.
  2. I get output voltage to my batteries, but app does not reflect charging state and reports that charging is disabled: sometimes I can have AUX1-switch enabled when I start the truck and will very soon after will have output voltage to batteries. Or, after having truck running, I enable AUX1-switch and shortly after have output voltage to batteries. This is with Engine Shutdown Detection disabled and Input Voltage Lockout disabled.
  3. I get output voltage to my batteries, and the app reflects the charging state (bulk, float, etc): I've tried about every combination of settings in the VictronConnect app I can and the times I've seen the app report the charging state have been just about random. The times I've adjusted VictronConnect app settings and it has reported 'bulk' charging state, it does not continue to do so after turning truck off and back on. I've also only been able to get app to relfect 'bulk' charging state while truck has been running (and AUX1-switch enabled) and I've made changes in the charge controller settings, I've yet to see a 'bulk' charging state on startup without changing app settings.

Installation notes:

  1. From upfitter/AUX switch 1 (rated for 25amps), I've run marine-grade 10/2 to the terminal/junction box I installed on camper (so that I can disconnect cabling in the event I remove the camper or sell it). 25' of cabling at most.
  2. From the terminal box, the marine-grade 10/2 runs through the interior of camper to the Orion Smart DC-DC charger input terminals. 25' of cabling at most.
  3. From the Orion Smart DC-DC charger output terminals, marine-grade 10/2 cabling to battery compartment, connecting to 2 Dakota Lithium 54ah batteries connected in parallel. 9' of cabling at most.

Extra:

  • I also have a 200watt 10amp solar panel array (2 panels) with 20amp charge controller connected to batteries.

1. Under the Hood Connection.jpeg

2. Terminal:Junction Box.jpeg

3. Orion Smart DC-DC Charger.jpeg

4. Camper Battery Compartment.jpeg

VictronConnect - Output Voltage with Input Voltage Detection Disabled.jpeg

VictronConnect - Getting Output Voltage but no Charging State.jpeg

VictronConnect - Output Voltage with Engine Detection Disabled .jpeg

VictronConnect - Engine Detect Enabled and Input Voltage Lockout Enabled.jpeg

VictronConnect - Output Voltage but no Charging State - Engine Detection Disabled and Input Voltage Detection Disabled.jpeg

VictronConnect - Set to Charger.jpeg


battery chargingorion-tr smartalternator
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3 Answers
klim8skeptic avatar image
klim8skeptic answered ·

Your photo shows a 24v input / 12v output model Orion.

Please confirm model, and F250 system voltage.

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Clayton Tompkins avatar image Clayton Tompkins commented ·

Well dang of all the things to overlook, that would appear to be the issue. Model I purchased:

Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart 24/12-Volt 20 amp 240-Watt DC-DC Charger, Isolated (Bluetooth)

Thanks for chiming in

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snowking avatar image
snowking answered ·

Just because the upfitter switch is rated for 25 amps. Does not mean it is the best setup. I would think using a relay under the hood. Just using the upfitter switch to turn the relay on and off. Just having the main power wiring going to the relay. Then the charger. Might be a better setup. The longer wire runs you have. Means more voltage loss. Not looping 20 amps all the way threw the cab.

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Kevin Windrem avatar image
Kevin Windrem answered ·

Assuming you are charging at 20 amps into a 14.7 volt house battery that's 294 watts.Add another 5% for Orion efficiency so you need almost 310 watts from the vehicle battery. As the voltage at the Orion input drops, its input current will increase to supply the 20 amp output current and voltage.

Assume you have 13.5 volts at the vehicle battery.

Voltage drop in the 50' of #10 wiring from the battery to the Orion input will be on the order of about 4 volts with a current of about 32 amps to supply the needed 310 watts. This isn't going to work. The Orion may shut down due to low input voltage. The #10 wire will run very warm (75 C in free air).

Increasing wire size is required. #6 wire will result in about a 1.3 volt drop and and an input current of 25 amps.

Finding a way to shorten wire lengths will also help. But keep in mind you want the Orion as close as possible to the house battery (or you will also need to use large gauge wire there so the Orion gets a proper picture of house battery voltage while charging.

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