In other words, how much is the current running through the remote switch plug? The (digital) time switch I try to install doesnt function now. As said, the maximum switch capacity is 1800 watts or <8A. I have tested the system with a normal light switch and then it all works. I suspect the time switch is flawed, but Im not sure.
If you mean the little remote jumper, you may be overthinking it - there's no real current flowing through the remote jumper. Most remote switching is accomplished by just interrupting the continuity between the L pin and H pin of the jumper; when continuity is present, the unit is on and following its programming, when continuity is interrupted the unit is off.
Alternatively you can use the high- or low-side switching as described in the manual.
Thank you for your rapid answer. I indeed meant the little remote jumper and was already afraid I was overthinking it/asking stupid questions. But I had to be shure since the setup didnt work with the time switch. The thing is probably just broken, since it looked already used when I unpacked it. Ill order another one now and then hopefully I can enjoy a fully automated "night mode" on my system soon. Thanks a lot!
Thanks for thinking with me. Im afraid I didnt look into the specs that deep. It happens to be an AC timer. Though its not one of those where you simply plug in loads. You have to connect it properly via the phase and zero wires (if thats proper english). So I thought it was just a simple matter of switching the SDB remote on and off, cutting or reestablishing the throughput - with the timer console running on its own LR44 batteries.... But Ive found another timer now thats specified as 24V ac/dc, maybe that will do the trick? (My SDB is connected to a 24V set of batteries) Thanks again!
Thanks, Sarah. Unfortunately I dont have one those. So Im looking at about €500 for a Cerbo/Touch combi against €29 for the timer switch (which I like to be able to operate manually also). But Ill find a way ...
