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n3wby avatar image
n3wby asked

DC to DC Charger specs

Hi All,

Regarding the DC to DC charger output voltage specs 12/24V-15A 360W. Nominal output voltage is 24,2. Adjustable 20V to 30V

If a 25.6V battery spec requires charge of 28.8V. Would this product function correctly accounting for voltage drop? https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/voltage-drop-calculator.html

E.g charging an auxiliary battery in a caravan. Cable run 12m. It appears the general recommendation is to install a DC to DC as close to the auxiliary as possible. But for a 12V/24V this seems counterintuitive.

I am contemplating using a solar panel instead on roof racks with a higher Voc as an alternative to this charger.


Look forward to thoughts/suggestions. Cheers.

dc-dc charger
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6 Answers
kevgermany avatar image
kevgermany answered ·

It's output voltage is measured at the charger, so it's unaware of voltage drop.

  1. Minimise voltage drop by using adequate cable sizes.
  2. Voltage drop depends on and is proportional to current.
  3. It's possible to increase the absorption voltage in the settings.However as the battery becomes more charged, current drops, so there's less voltage drop and an excessive increase in the absorption voltage will lead to overcharging.
  4. If you don't increase the absorption voltage, as the battery becomes charged, current drops and there's less effect on charging due to voltage drop. Voltage drop will tend towards to the tail current at float voltage. Net result is that batteries will charge fully, given sufficient time.
  5. I'd look at the numbers, taking into account how much time you will be driving. I've a similar situation, but in a campervan with a 5M run at 24V. It charges fine, but never gets the battery up to 100%. And that's with a 2M run in heavy cable to the Orion.


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n3wby avatar image
n3wby answered ·

Hi Kev,

Thanks for the reply.

1. Agree
2. Agree
3. Good point. Will need to measure at the battery point to determine correct charge voltage during a bulk phase. Would a BMS system monitor & prevent this?

4. Good point
5. You have just given me an idea. I may put the electrical system in the vehicle to reduce cable run. This may allow the system to also be portable.

Cheers!

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Michelle Konzack avatar image
Michelle Konzack answered ·

I suggest you to use solarpanels for better charging.


If you use a SmartSolar MPPT 75/15, you can add for example three (better use three panels in series as one big one because even if it is cloudy you get a much higher output) 150Wp solarpanels in series (roughly 54Vmpp of 66Voc) and can perfectly charge your 24V battery.

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n3wby avatar image
n3wby answered ·

Hi Michelle,

Thanks for the reply.

Due to size & weight restrictions I have opted for a single residential panel with NMOT 56Voc & 48Vmpp. The intention is to couple this to a 120/45 MPPT. This will allow more solar capability if needed down the track & series parallel setup if required.

Cheers!

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Michelle Konzack avatar image
Michelle Konzack answered ·

The SmartSolar MPPT 150/45 can handle 620W @12V or 1240W @24V and is in my opinion completely overkill and expensive


Since you write about the Orion-Tr 12/24V-15A 360W I would suggest you simply the SmartSolar MPPT 75/15 (realy inexpensive) for the single solarpanel and IF you want to add solarpanels later, add another one.


Why?


Since you have a weight and size restriction (and probably installed flat), adding later more panels to the existing one can lead to non-desirable effects do to the different orientations.

Hence if you want to use later 2-3 mobile Solarpanels on a shelf with a tracker for example (I do this with 3x100W panels) it is better, to have another SmartSolar (I use a SmartSolar MPPT 75/15 in addition to the 2x 200W on the roof which use a SmartSolar MPPT 100/20 du to the high Voc of 73V)

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n3wby avatar image
n3wby answered ·

Thanks Michelle. I do like this idea. I will have a dedicated MPPT 75/15 for vehicle solar & sperate MPPT for 2 parallel panels 100/30. The 30 is just in case I want to parallel 3 panels at any stage, making the vehicle solar panel lockable/removable.

5 comments
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kevgermany avatar image kevgermany ♦♦ commented ·
Chances are that you will end up with unmatched panels if you try to increase in the future. So MPPT for present needs is a good way forward.
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Michelle Konzack avatar image Michelle Konzack commented ·
I would not use parallel panels but with 2-3 panels only series, e.g. 2 panels 100/30 or 3 panels 150/35.

This will give you already in Spring and also in Autumn much more power as in parallel which also requires bigger cables.


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n3wby avatar image n3wby Michelle Konzack commented ·

I understand the current advantage but how does the series panel produce more vs parallel. What about shading when in series?

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Michelle Konzack avatar image Michelle Konzack n3wby commented ·
Since you want the second set mobile, do not place it in a shadow?


I use for my 3x100Wp Panels a cable H07RN-F 4G2,5 (two conductors for the PV and two as power suppy for the SolarTracker and 2 Motors) with 25m lenght using a (green, no where used) 16A CEE Plug with 5 contacts.

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kevgermany avatar image kevgermany ♦♦ n3wby commented ·
More power comes from a longer period when the voltage is high enough to charge, usually at dawn/dusk and when there's bad weather.
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