I’ve been using my Victron setup (battery bank, lynx distributor, Carbon GX, etc) for 2 years now with no issues. Up until this year I’ve only really utilized the multiplus inverter to run Starlink and a Bosch water heater. I recently installed my final outlet in the kitchen and have run both an induction stove top and microwave oven with no issues just this morning. This evening the inverter tripped and shutdown while I was using my induction stove top. I replaced the 60a mega fuse in the lynx and that temporarily resolved it. But then when attempting to continue cooking on the induction it blew again about 5 minutes in and no more than maybe 1500w of pull. I replaced the megafuse again but have not attempted to use the outlet again for the induction or microwave oven. Curious what can be causing the inverter to shutdown and blow the fuse? Is it the induction stove top? Possibly bad wiring in the outlet? This is my first experience with blown fuses in this system so I’m looking for any and all advice. Thanks in advance!
Sounds a bit undersized.
Perhaps you could look at the manual and check the fusing and cabling requirements.
What inverter do you have exactly? What is the battery voltage?
A 60A fuse could mean that you have a Victron Multiplus II 3000 with 25mm2 battery cables (60A / 3 = 20 so 25 mm2 wires). In that case the ambient temperature could also become a limiting factor. Pulling 1500W at 40°C could then become an edge case. But since we don’t know what you have….
Please also check your wiring. Are all connections still solid?
If it is a mp2 3k 48v, then it should be a 125A fuse with 35mm2 cable minimum
anything else means even bigger minimum fuse and wiring
I have a MultiPlus-II 12/3000/120-50 120v.
UPDATE: I think it must be an inverter issue or a cabling issue. After replacing the 60a Megafuse for the second time last night I was running just my Starlink and it shut itself down again in the same way with the same error code. I using 4/0 cabling in a short run to the Lynx and the 60a mega fuse is on the first lug closest to the input side of the lynx. Please let me know if I can provide any additional info. Thank you SO VERY MUCH for the assistance.
A 60A fuse on the 12V DC supply will only be good for approx. 700W output. The manual states that you should have 400A fusing for the the 12/3000 model. The cable should also be 2 x 1/0 or 2 x 2/0 for both positive and negative.
Check the manual for appropriate cable size and fuses.
Z
All connections appear to be solid. That is a 60a megafuse where the positive 4/0 cable connects to the lynx. I’m thinking based on the replies thus far that I need to up that to a 400a megafuse where fuse AND run an additional 4/0 positive and negative to the multiplus. Any chance someone could confirm this and possibly help with a Diagram of where the additional positive and negative terminals connect at the battery I’m assuming?
And I’m still confused on how running just the inverter to use a Starlink with a new 60a megafuse (even if substantially undersized) would’ve caused it to shut down as though it was overloaded?
The cabling seems ok. 2x 1/0 is about the same as 1x 4/0. If possible contact the installer and check if it’s ok to put in a 400A fuse.
On startup the inverter requires a lot of power. Did this happen when you switched the system on? Or did it happen after a while?
Your fusing on the battery pack inlet the Lynx BMS needs reviewing. A Mega fuse is not suitable here for the main fusing on a lithium bank. If you have a dead short those batteries can probably push 10,000A fault current which is higher than a Mega fuse is rated for. As an example, my install, 2 x 12V 300Ah Victron Smart Lithium NG batteries to Lynx NG BMS, each battery has a 300A Class T fuse. This feeds a 12/3000 Multiplus which has a 400A fuse in the Lynx Distributor.
I can not definitively answer why you managed with a 60A fuse and low draw previously and can not now. One thought is if the new fuse is not being installed or torqued fully, or the holder has distorted the terminals can generate heat causing the fuse to blow early or to have a high contact resistance and voltage drop.
If you have 4/0 wire from batteries to Lynx and then 4/0 wire from Lynx to Multiplus you may be OK.
In the pics there appears to be a main breaker between the batteries and the lynx. Maybe a pic can clarify if it’s AIC is adequate?
I took that as a Mega fuse holder, you could be right, however the issue remains there needs to be some high AIC rating safety in the install.
It happened after a while. Basically the inverter stays on while camping so about 8 hours before it happened I was running the hot water heater multiple times and made breakfast utilizing the induction stove top for about 15 minutes and before that a small microwave oven while having the Starlink on the whole time. When it shut down the first time I had just finished doing dishes using the hot water heater and then plugged in the induction. To be fair I didn’t have a torque wrench with me to swap out the 60a fuse in the lynx.
If that is 250A rating then that is also undersized. Check the technical data on it for AIC, Ampere Interupt Capacity.
This datasheet indicates 10kA, don’t know if it’s the correct model number.
Looks like an Fseries, their nice, 50kA
The fully rated mnedc250s with a trip curve of 16 have a very significant overload capability for motor starts and would be a good fit for this task. 50,000AIC at 125V, even higher at lesser voltage.
I would suggest the 80V ceramic Victron 400A megafuse for the distributor