any additional thoughts on why the system would’ve shut down while only running the Starlink after just replacing the 60 megafuse with a new 60a megafuse?
Is the Starlink configured to melt snow? maybe that is what’s using a lot of power
Negative. I’m going to swap out the mega fuse with an 80v/400a as recommended above and torque to spec to see if that resolves it. My concern with it shutting it down simply running a Starlink that pulls minimally is there’s potentially a short or loose wire somewhere although I’ve checked all connection points and everything is intact.
If that is the case and your 60A fuse was the weakest link, then something else is going to burn. Check the temperature. Possibly with thermal imaging. Camera. A cheap IR meter would be a good starting pont.
Your problem is elementary school math together with being unable to read the manual. I wonder about the many comments here:
1500 W / 12 V = 125 Amp. Thats the simple reason why the 60Amp Fuse blows.
Anyway, for that size of loads a 48V system can be recommended. Depending from your Starlink model, simply solder a DC cable and connect to the Lynx directly. I did this for my Starlink standard dish and even the routers PoE outputs work.
Reminder: this is a setup in a camper van and then 12V is pretty much the standard.
You may have been in a situation historically where by chance your various loads did not draw all at the same time. E.g. your hot water heater had switched off due to reaching its target temp, and then you operated your other loads.
This time, maybe, your water heater thermostat had turned on the element while you were using other loads leading to a current higher than the fuse could take.
Also note that fuse quality and specs vary widely, and maybe your new stock of fuses is not as good or the same spec as what you used before, e.g. 32v cheapo plastic fuse, that trips early.
So when somebidy suggests a Victron 80v/400A ceramic fuse, pay attention to the details and make sure thats what you get.
I have had good success with the Littelfuse brand as well.
P.s. I dont like the proximity of your negative and shunt connections to the positive on the breaker, too much opportunity for some accidental welding.
Cheers,
Alex
Installations in a van dont have to be 12v , and the new DC/DC chargers from victron have some solutions to charge from 12v and boost up to higher voltages. Its important o t divorce the purpose of the installation from the vehicle its in…..
Appreciate the reply! I was also thinking maybe I managed to overload the inverter but then once I switched the fuse it came right back on (I’ve read a bunch where you have to do a particular sequence to get it back on after an overload). As I keep asking others though (and appreciate all the replies!) I’m still confused how a Starlink, run totally by itself on a 3000w inverter, could trip it and shut it down? That said all my fuses are victron and up until this incident I have had zero issues with a fuse blowing. I pulled the AC box from the wall and all connections are intact and no signs of heat or melting. Any big advantages to a ceramic fuse as referenced above vs a traditional copper mega fuse?
I’m removing the smart shunt this evening as it is not needed because I have a Smart BMS so that should resolve your concern about its proximity to the positive.
Better thermal and arc performance is my understanding over regular glass versions. Especially when you are dealing with LFP batteries with a lot of available fault current. Victron sells 5 packs of them, way less than their older single priced 58V glass units.
A useful tool for troubleshooting is a thermal imaging camera, you can get them now that plug in to your phone. These are useful at spotting high resistance connections that are warming up, or cables that are undersized and running at higher temperature.
Note that you need to use it when you have your maximum loads running for some time to allow heat to build.
Also a clamp meter will allow you to visualize your currents at various places to see how that is affecting your fuses.
Hope that helps.
Judging by the photograph of your electrical cabinet it is made out of timber of something similar.
All of those electrical components should be mounted only on non flammable materials.
The battery connections are anything else then optimal.
You should NOT Chain the Batteries and connect the PLUS and MINUS at one end.
Connect the two Batterie Cables at least between Battery 2 and 3.