I’m currently planning the electrical system for my Iveco Daily 4x4 expedition vehicle and am relying entirely on components from Victron Energy.
I’ve done a lot of research and, to the best of my knowledge, have drawn up an initial wiring diagram/overview. I’d be grateful if you could give it a once-over.
Can you spot any major mistakes, safety risks or areas for improvement in my plan (e.g. fusing or the overall logic)?
Definitely speak to a competent Victron installer/vehicle conversion specialist/auto electrician before buying any components!
There are quite a few things to consider (for example, never impose potentials anywhere unnecessarily! For example, is that a PE busbar on the Lynx Minus?), and depending on the materials used in the conversion, you could end up bringing problems into the vehicle rather than keeping them out (lightning/surge protection)! You need to distinguish between equipotential bonding (sometimes also lightning protection), functional earth and protective earth! In some cases these need to be routed separately, while in others they can be connected at specific points (follow the vehicle manufacturer’s conversion guidelines!)
What part of the world are you from? Germany?
I’d choose the 12/24 V version of the XS, and the PV controllers too. The same goes for the 12/24 V to 48 V DC/DC converter for Starlink. If you ever want or need to raise your battery voltage to 24 V, you won’t need to buy any additional charging equipment; the existing units can simply be reprogrammed.
I’d go straight to 24V. Connect the modules in sets of three in series and use a 150/35 charge controller. The 100/30 for the external 48V/25A modules is too small. With a 24V system voltage, either that one or a 100/50 would work.
If you only switch to 24 V later, the MP will be the only remaining 12 V bottleneck that needs replacing.
Also bear in mind that your planned devices and lights should have what’s known as a DC multi-voltage input.
Like Victron devices, this can handle 9–60 V (older models are usually 9–40 V), making it less sensitive to voltage fluctuations and supply voltage in vehicle applications.
Hi Michael, interesting plan and approach. I also spent a long time thinking it over and then decided on 24 volts. But I have a quick question: where can I get this drawing programme with Victron components? Then I could sketch out my system too and show it here. Udo
Hi Michael, cool system. One thing I would reconsider is to control the Orions directly on their remote port via the BMS rather than via a Smart Battery Protect. It works, but sometimes the SBP goes into “short circuit” because of the capacitors in the DC/DC converters can draw a large surge current. If that occurs, simply short the in and out of the SBP for a second, then the error will reset.
Something fun and potentially useful to add in the future: I see you have a cerbo gx with unused digital inputs, you can use them to make all types of extra information available. For example: I used two of these cables 4-60V Digital input cable for Victron GX devices - V21GX7000000 | 4V in combination with a Node-RED flow to make an alarm go off when the engine is running AND my DIY stair case was out… (Was asked for homologation) You can also make this yourself or use a potential free switch by the way. Enjoy your system - Andreas
Hi Michael, I’ve only just got around to taking a closer look at your system. There are already quite a few differences from my approach (no judgement, as I’m still new to the Victron world too), and quite a few things I only have a limited understanding of. I know your vehicle a bit better; it’s fairly compact and light. Which part of the country are you from?
