question

mariohr avatar image
mariohr asked

Different voltage solar panel to MPPT

Hello all,

Here is my situation. On a boat have one mono panel of 110w and Vmp 18.6V and Voc 21.9V and it is connected to old victron pwm charger.

Now i want to add 2 more flexibile panels of 100w and Vmp 17.1V and Voc 20.3V.

I want to buy Victron MPPT 100/30 and connect all 3 panels in parallel (serial is problematic because one of the solars is likley to have some shadow, and i dont want to whole system suffer because of that).

So my question is can i just connect it without any additional stuff? Is this difference in voltage in tollerance or it is too high? I would like to have them all on new MPPT charger so i can monitor on phone statistic of whole system. I would like to avoid 2 chargers if it is possibile.


Thank you all in advance!

MPPT SmartSolar
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kevgermany avatar image kevgermany ♦♦ commented ·
There's quite a big difference here. Not good. What are the max power currents?
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mariohr avatar image mariohr kevgermany ♦♦ commented ·
I'm sry did not saw this answer :(


So on existing 110w mono Lmp is 5.92A and Isc is 6.39A. On new 100w flexibile mono Lmp is 5.9A and Isc is 6.3A.

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3 Answers
outsourcedguru avatar image
outsourcedguru answered ·

If connected in series it sounds like the maximum voltage presented to the charge controller is 52.8VDC at 5A for a total of 264W. Since this voltage is under the "100" first number in the model name, you should be safe.

Every cell of a solar panel is in essence a diode. It will only allow current to flow in a single direction. In a typical panel there are strings of cells. In a good-quality panel there are perhaps three bypass diodes within the design. These allow current to flow around problematic substrings (which have reduced current due to the shading).

So if you connect panels in series and one is partially shaded—assuming that there are bypass diodes within the design—then the current just flows through that without adding additional voltage nor drastically reducing the current that was produced in the other two. If your panels include "half-cut cells" then these are more forgiving to shading.

The orientation of the shading is significant. A vertical shade from a mast along an entire column of cells would in many cases knock the output down a lot as opposed to a horizontal shading across the same panel. I'm assuming a "portrait" orientation of the panel here versus "landscape".

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If connected in parallel then you're presenting a relatively low voltage to your charge controller. You haven't mentioned the voltage of your combined batteries. In a 12VDC battery storage system the solar voltage in the 17-18VDC isn't significantly more than the 12V it's trying to charge. If you have a 24VDC battery storage system then you're attempting to charge with a lower voltage and the SmartSolar will have to "change gears" and switch from a more typical stepping-down operation to a stepping-up for voltage. (I recently changed a client's solar system from eight panels in parallel to four panels in series now doubled in parallel [4S-P-4S]. This quadrupled the voltage presented to the charge controller and the entire system then began working wonderfully by comparison to before.)

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I would recommend connecting them in series.

As for the orientation of how they're pointed, I think it would be important to discuss if your boat is moving or not. If this is a sailboat and you're making figure eights between two buoys then you won't show a panel directly to the sun at all times. In a case like this I think I would recommend getting two vertically-mounted bifacial panels along the centerline of the ship.

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mariohr avatar image
mariohr answered ·

Thank you very much for the answers.

Indeed we are using 12V system of batteries (two 200Ah batteries in parallel).

Boat is simple Merry Fisher and we use it just for family usage, but why do we need much charging power is because summer trip with kidds. We go about 3-4 weeks island hopping staying in each place about 2-3 day. And this is where we need good solar charging. While we are underway it is no problem because of 150A alternator on engine. So problem is while we are stationary :)

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kevgermany avatar image kevgermany ♦♦ commented ·
You're ignoring the effect of connecting panels with differing Impp ratings in series. It may well be that despite the op wanting to avoid two controllers, this is the best option with this panel mix.
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outsourcedguru avatar image outsourcedguru commented ·
Ah, I see. Imagine now that if your single-sided panels faced port-side then you'd need to moor your boat so that this side faced the sun. You might even need to get out and spin the boat around in the afternoon. Like I indicated, I think I'd go with bifacial here for this for the convenience.

Note also that you'll pull in some power from the opposite side via ambient light. I routinely get at least 75W from my 1.6KW set of panels when the sun has moved into the evening sky completely behind my panels.

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Since you mentioned it, note that the wires which go from your batteries to the inverter should be quite large. Imagine a 1200W load typical of a baby microwave oven. 1200W / 12VDC = 100A current. Yipes. That's minimally 3 AWG cable and pretty thick.

I routinely see products sold to solar customers with grossly-underrated wiring. Since they have large rolls of 10 AWG that's what their salespeople sell without ever thinking twice about it.

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mariohr avatar image
mariohr answered ·

So tu sum up, can this work in paralel with 12v batteries? I dont want to go into percentage of usability, but can this work like this without damage to any of system components (solar panels, mppt charger, batteries)?


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kevgermany avatar image kevgermany ♦♦ commented ·
Yes
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