Multiplus 12 | 3000 inverter won’t turn on / display and lights after an overload issue

My campervan recently had an overload issue with the AC power where it automatically shut off the inverter. Now, the Multiplus Inverter does not light up at all / nor turn on. I tried the following

  • Checked my AC breakers - None were tripped
  • tried to manually turn on the inverter instead of using the Digital Multi Control
  • Checked the voltage of the battery (currently at 13.6V)
  • Solar Smartcharger working stating that it is in Float mode.

In short, i am not quite sure what next steps are for me to investigate. Note that I have had this system for 4 years with no issues. This was my first time overloading the system.

Attached are images of my system. Any help would be appreciated!



I would be looking at the under rated mega fuse (150a)
According to the manual, a 400a fuse would be appropriate, if using 2x50mm cables.

Also ask your installer if that mega fuse is required, given the big ass fuse immediately to it’s left.

Thanks for the reply. Tomorrow morning I will check for continuity in the two fuses to see if that’s where the issue lies. Additionally, I have reached out to the professional van company that did the conversion for their thoughts too.

Check the voltage on the inverter DC input terminals with a multimeter as that should always be a first off check.

So I check the voltage on the inverter itself and got a reading of 1.5v to 2v when the inverter is in the off position. When I turn it on, the voltage does not change.

I did look at my Bussman 350amp fuse and it appears to show some signs of damage. See below image.

Would next steps be to check for continuity on that fuse?

Thanks

Set your multimeter to volts range to cover 12V (usually 20V), put the -ve test lead on the -ve battery post, then move the +ve test lead along the +ve cable starting at the battrry +ve post one connection at a time until you find where it changes from 13.5V to 1.5V and that is where the problem lies. If you get to the inverter +ve terminal and it is still reading 13.5V the issue lies in the negative connection. In that case put the +ve test lead on the battery +ve terminal and work your way from the battery -ve terminal to the inverter with the -ve test lead.

The trouble with continuity or resistance checks is a partially blown fuse still has some continuity.

Okay so I did that and was getting consistently 14V until the bottom portion of this 150Amp Mega fuse where the voltage dropped to 1v. It appears that the issue may be that fuse.

Consider removing it and wiring direct to the 350A Class T fuse, which is still a bit lower than recommended.

I also suggest you check the tightness of all nuts on that fuse block given the discoloration. I am not sure that it is good practice having cables on the fuse bolts in a vehicle, any cable vibration could loosen the contact.

Thanks. Would it be overkill if I add a 400amp mega fuse in place of the 150Amp mega fuse and keep the system as is?

It would work, a pragmatic but not best case solution.

Thanks for all your help on this. I plan to get a 400amp fuse for the time being to get the inverter to work and then when I get time, utilize your suggestion to remove it in entirety and up the 350amp bussman fuse to 400amp.

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