Device has been installed for just about 8 months or so and been working. I had tested the AC output just about 10 days ago and everything was working as expected.
The unit is totally non-responsive to the power switch on the device. No LED lights on the device light up at all. There is no evidence of burn, damage, corrosion, water damage.
It is not listed in the UI of the display screen in our build or available in the app via bluetooth.
There does not seem to be a fuse between the battery bank and inverter. We have a Victron distributor that is between the battery bank and the inverter.
I took the front cover off and and tested that there was power coming from the battery to bank to the inverter, and indeed the terminals on the inverter read between 12 and 13 volts.
I’ve seen reference to “resetting” the device by turning it into the off position for 4 seconds, and then back on.
Definitely not an electrician, so if there are other relatively easy troubleshooting steps I would love to try them, before I start working on a warranty claim.
It could be a defective Megafuse fuse that can no longer carry any power. However, it is still sufficient for measuring purposes, replace it and then retest.
and check the remote connector to see if it is plugged in properly.
How do you normally switch the inverter on and off ?
We have always used the app or the display in the van to turn the inverter off when the van isn’t going to be used for while. So the switch has always been “on” on the device.
I don’t see a megafuse in this build, but perhaps I am missing something. I’ll add a high rez image of the inverter and the components around.
For the remote connector, is that the network cable coming out of the device?
I’m going out to the van now to try and pull the cover from the distributor to check for the fuses. Any idea what it could mean when there are no LEDs at all like this?
No … you have to take them out and check them visually and/or by measurement for continuity. A replacement fuse would of course be great
13’ nut and no short circuit please
I got my hands on a new fuse. I’ll probably work on pulling the old one tomorrow. Will report back, thank you for the responses!
PS: If you think any reason why that red LED might not be on at all, please let me know. That comment sort of makes me think the inverter is just done.
It could be that there is still enough “fusible wire” in the fuse for the control current and the detection and therefore you can also measure a voltage at the multi. However, this is not sufficient for the switch-on power of the multi and the wire is too “broken” for this. At this moment, however, the LED in the distributor should also turn yellow. I am curious.
Why should the multi be defective if the fuse has been selected correctly … Was there a very large load?
When you “put in” the new fuse, there may be a brief “pop” at the contact because the capacitors are recharging … so don’t be shocked.
I don’t think we had any load issues. We were having some work done (yes, we’ve done an initial check for having hit any wires) - but I don’t think the 110 outlets from the multiplus were ever used, and we haven’t been using the van otherwise. I also tested the 110’s several days ago, and they were fine.
Also, if it were a large load issue, would something appear burned, or damaged inside the multiplus? There’s no burn marks I see on the board, and it does not smell like it has been overloaded.
I think these are the connections of the battery bank.
Disconnect the communication port / network cable. The Multi will then drop out of the controller … You may then be able to switch it on and off again manually …
Steffen is correct, the image is just really hard to tell. But that is the copper (I think copper at least) connection to the terminals of one of the batteries in the battery bank.
Your networked BMS may have switched off the inverter … very difficult to assess from a distance … but you can access the BMS and view and acknowledge error messages here … Unfortunately, I’m not at all familiar with these Lynx BMS … Your remote control may also have a defect …
Perhaps the best solution would be to integrate a GX module … Then you could always see remotely what your system is logging …
Cerbo … perfect … Are there no messages and/or error messages stored here?
Perhaps the shunt has switched off the multi because the SOC is too low … What values have been entered in the shunt?
It can’t have been the Battle Born BMS, otherwise you wouldn’t have measured any voltage …
Thanks for your help Steffen, this was very educational for me, and helped at least verify the hardware is still good.
I think there is some other issue with the system, I can’t get anything but a “Grid Lost” notification out of the system, and now the MPPT solar controller won’t turn on due to what looks like not enough voltage (only pulling ~13 volts, when usually in direct sunlight ~22). And once I turn off the inverter, and back on I get “Grid Lost” and now it is in the same state as it was before with no LEDs at all. I think there is clearly something else going on and this is the symptom and not the issue…
