Multiplus II configuration

[FlyingScot (David)]

Planning to add a MP2 48 5000 70 inverter charger Battery storage system to my house in {not so} sunny Scotland

Gathering the necessary parts, I have the MP2 and Four Pylontech US5000 batteries and a Lynx 1000 distributor.
I need to purchase most of the cables, a Cerbo GX V2, a GX touch screen, DC and AC switches/isolators, either a Victron 112 energy meter OR a CT clamp, 125A MEGA fuses for the distributor, a Victron VE.Direct to USB interface cable, and more

SO here is what I am planning to do first build this VE Battery storage system and have it connected to the grid and go onto an Octopus GO tariff to charge the batteries overnight and charge my EV at cheap rates. NOW I do have a 3.6kW SolarEdge PV system and I want to measure the PV generation and use this energy when my Octopus App and my Octopus Mini tell me I have extra energy BUT have the MP2 do this automatically and use this energy to charge the batteries. I am having a new Consumer Unit installed once Octopus have installed a Power Isolation Switch {why they did not do that when they installed the smart meter is something I will never understand doubly so when it is obvious that I was probably Noah that put in the present Consumer Unit}

SO it will be easy and probably sensible to install a VE112 energy metter in the Consumer Unit (I am having a dual CU installed the bottom part for ‘the house circuits’ and the top half for New Add On Circuits, the first one will be the Solar, then the VE BSS, then {the new still being built} garage, and maybe an EV Charger.

OR should I just put a CT on between the PV FIT Meter and the smart meter?

[Daza]

Lots of questions First go over to show my install on this sight a grab a couple of ideas sometime visualising is better than talking.

Is one stack of batteries enough in sunny Scotland and as it’s not too good in the winter down south so think where you install stuff that there is enough room to add more. Home Assistant can do your Victron Octopus integration, I’m on intelligent and do the same thing.

And PS think about your cable size to inverter/to Lynx and get a big CU my one in the House only has one place left out of 24 and the double stack 40CU probably has 10free. Look to see if you can get a changeover switch for the board, many an upgrade time oven on me wanting to update as busy the next day switch changerover switch and isolate multi in and out so multi can be run without taking out the house during the update.

ET112 is very good for solar stuff I’ve got two, but I would really like Victron @guystewart to open up the VM-3P75CT so individual Clamps on it can be reassigned on single phase systems for showing PV EV and so on

[FlyingScot (David)]

THANKS, the pictures are lovely BUT initially somewhat confusing

I also have a what looks like an identical 19" rack mount cabinet and I CAN see that YOU have the batteries with individual ‘outs’ to I assume one of the three Lynx Distributors They do not appear to have VE MEGA fuses BUT the middle one which I assume is output to the inverter has what looks like VE MEGA Fuses ??

I CAN SEE that you have only one coms cable going to the inverter is that because the top battery is the master and all the batteries are connected together with the short standard as supplied coms cable if so that is good news to me

What size trunking did you use? And how did you get the battery cables out of that 19" cabinet and how long were these cables.

Also, how is the MP2 connected to the consumer unit AC out-1 Ac out-2 or AC In I had thought that ONLY AC in was bidirectional, is that not correct ?

And as I want to run my house during the day off of my batteries and charge them using the present metered output from my FIT PV system when the sun is shining and hopefully soon-to-be-added MAX PV on my soon-to-be completed garage roof and cheap overnight energy from an Octopus GO tariff maybe even the cheaper IGO IF or ONCE I spend a fortune to install a Hypervolt Home 3 Pro EV charger first quote was £1600 ‘OUCH’ BUT that included adding a CU and as I am totally replacing the old CU with a dual CU with a SPD with the bottom half for the house and the top part for all my coming add-ons and relocating the present SolarEdge inverter power {mini CU and wrongly sized CB} to the top part of this new CU

BUT how do I ensure that NO or MINIMUM energy is taken from the grid IF the Battery Storage system is able to run all the house energy requirements?

And the original question, a CT clipped on between the FIT meter and the house smart meter ? Or a VE 112 energy meter in the top section of my new CU to measure the FIT PV system output and have the MP2 use that energy to charge my batteries??

many thanks

[Daza]

I will try to answer all the questions as I’m doing it on a phone lol,

Correct all batteries are run parallel so I can get max charge into them without it going to the master and being redistributed forcing the master to have more if this makes sense also it’s better for balancing each receiving the same charge.

Cable to the Lynx is 2 meters it could have done with 3meters but 2 is all Pylontech sell, at the bottom of the cabinet is an unscrewable slot, I used that and then gout cement board bonded that to the bottom and trapping the cables that are run in corrugated conduit, the cement board also doubles up as the base for my ceramic heater.

I’m using Alder Fuses on the cabinets to the batteries but they are overrated compared to the cable size ie this is to stop a lithium short rather than the cable but will blow if dead short, the multiplus only pumps out around 140amps divided by 4 is 35amps per cable this is why I like them parallel too another stack of 4 will half it so the cable will carry less amps but that’s the max stack that I believe I can get away with in the charging window

Yes Pylontech batteries wired with one master the rest as slaves, always make the newest battery the master, the conduit for the battery cable is Split Conduit 23.1mm-28.3mm per metre SCON7A

PS if yours are not in a heated area I would suggest look at some way to keep them warm and also cool.

So I am running a parallel system the whole house runs off of AC1 Out, AC in is connected so I can back feed to the grid through AC1 Out and also charge the batteries. If you are connected in this manner you don’t need a CT the multiplus 2 will do the number crunching when current is run through it, I found it operated better than the CT’s or the VM clamp when AC solar is in the mix as cloud cover can blip it into you using a lot from the grid.

This is why a changeover switch is needed, if the multi has to be worked on and running an update or just can’t wait to do something PS more the latter! I could do this at night and still have everything in the house working yes because no one can switch a changeover switch that fast you have to rest the times on the clocks for grid devices but at least you have light when working and it’s off peak so no drama

I run my system with a grid set point of -60 when I get more batteries this may increase but seen as I’ll be running two heaters I need to see how the base load, washing and drying go in the winter.

The Charger price isn’t too bad I got mine for £1100 Indra Smart Lux and I ran all the cable for the Charger already PS just because I wanted Doncaster EV cable didn’t want separate data. PS I would look to have SPD’s in every CU.

When it comes to the CU side PS have an unmonitored side ie one for really heavy loads like a heat pump if they force us to and also put the charger on the in monitored as it will be controlled but Octopus and only operate in off Peak scenarios so no need for the system to try to balance / deplete the batteries.

If just using AC In you will need to use either the Victron CT ie the blue cable one, the VM-3P75CT or the EM530. The ET 112 can work but is slower so you will consume more from the grid overtime. PS yes the multiplus will see the energy and use it but if just running on AC In you risk a lot of grid usage due to the fluctuations in power picture the grid and your system as a bubble both pushing but Victron pushing a little more cloud cover or load on the grid is now winning until the system can compensate again.

If you have the System all on AC1 Out you will still have solar in a grid down event and balancing AC solar a bit better ie a faster response from what I found. PS this way you haven’t touched any of your FIT PV wiring as you have done it from main CU/incomer and the ET 112 only gives Victron a reading of the solar generation so not interfering with the FIT PV.

PS if you are going to use AC1out then get a bigger Multiplus to give yourself head room in winter

Have I addressed everything?

[nickdb (Nick)]

If you haven’t already, I would encourage you to sign up on the (free) Victron professional site and do the online video training.
It will help with a good grounding in Victron ecosystem.

[FlyingScot (David)]

@Daza

I will try to answer all the questions as I’m doing it on a phone lol,

Correct all batteries are run parallel so I can get max charge into them without it going to the master and being redistributed forcing the master to have more if this makes sense also it’s better for balancing each receiving the same charge.

OKIDOKI

Cable to the Lynx is 2 meters it could have done with 3meters but 2 is all Pylontech sell, at the bottom of the cabinet is an unscrewable slot, I used that and then gout cement board bonded that to the bottom and trapping the cables that are run in corrugated conduit, the cement board also doubles up as the base for my ceramic heater.

Should I purchase the Amphenol connectors and make my own custom cables OR sit my distributor(s) in or on the 19" Rack cabinet

I’m using Alder Fuses on the cabinets to the batteries but they are overrated compared to the cable size ie this is to stop a lithium short rather than the cable but will blow if dead short, the multiplus only pumps out around 140amps divided by 4 is 35amps per cable this is why I like them parallel too another stack of 4 will half it so the cable will carry less amps but that’s the max stack that I believe I can get away with in the charging window

you said cabinets for the Adler fuses did you mean in the distributors

I have only a 48 5000 70 MP2 so that is only capable of 70A battery charging so only 17.5 amps per battery

Yes Pylontech batteries wired with one master the rest as slaves, always make the newest battery the master, the conduit for the battery cable is Split Conduit 23.1mm-28.3mm per metre SCON7A

I have two new US5000 - c versions and two used US 5000, so I will make one of the new ones the master

PS if yours are not in a heated area I would suggest look at some way to keep them warm and also cool.

Everything is going to be in my cellar and cooling is a non issue, not sure about heating as the house is old and has a fairly even stable natural temperature model {I guess I need to think about monitoring this real time}

So I am running a parallel system the whole house runs off of AC1 Out, AC in is connected so I can back feed to the grid through AC1 Out and also charge the batteries. If you are connected in this manner you don’t need a CT the multiplus 2 will do the number crunching when current is run through it, I found it operated better than the CT’s or the VM clamp when AC solar is in the mix as cloud cover can blip it into you using a lot from the grid.

**TOTALLY LOST ME HERE can you post a circuit diagram **

Also, why do you have two AC Isolators

My planned use of the CT or 112 energy meter was to sense when the sun was shining and ‘steal’ that energy to charge the batteries

This is why a changeover switch is needed, if the multi has to be worked on and running an update or just can’t wait to do something PS more the latter! I could do this at night and still have everything in the house working yes because no one can switch a changeover switch that fast you have to rest the times on the clocks for grid devices but at least you have light when working and it’s off peak so no drama

LOST ME AGAIN, where does this changeover switch go and what circuits is it changing over?

I run my system with a grid set point of -60 when I get more batteries this may increase but seen as I’ll be running two heaters I need to see how the base load, washing and drying go in the winter.

LOST ME AGAIN

The Charger price isn’t too bad I got mine for £1100 Indra Smart Lux and I ran all the cable for the Charger already PS just because I wanted Doncaster EV cable didn’t want separate data. PS I would look to have SPD’s in every CU.

The charger is £660 ish retail they wanted £1,000 to supply and fit the charger and were proposing using armoured cable (I have a full height cellar) and £600 for the CU update

I love that cable BUT if my charger and my router cannot communicate using WiFi then I will need to run a CAT5 Cable that will go in a totally different direction to the power line to the EV Charger

When it comes to the CU side PS have an unmonitored side ie one for really heavy loads like a heat pump if they force us to and also put the charger on the in monitored as it will be controlled but Octopus and only operate in off Peak scenarios so no need for the system to try to balance / deplete the batteries.

what is PS?

If just using AC In you will need to use either the Victron CT ie the blue cable one, the VM-3P75CT or the EM530. The ET 112 can work but is slower so you will consume more from the grid overtime. PS yes the multiplus will see the energy and use it but if just running on AC In you risk a lot of grid usage due to the fluctuations in power picture the grid and your system as a bubble both pushing but Victron pushing a little more cloud cover or load on the grid is now winning until the system can compensate again.

IS that connect via AC- 3 AC IN rather than AC-1 and i would expect to see a fair bit of fluctuation in the daily charging as the solar output goes up and down and vanishes totally at times

If you have the System all on AC1 Out you will still have solar in a grid down event and balancing AC solar a bit better ie a faster response from what I found. PS this way you haven’t touched any of your FIT PV wiring as you have done it from main CU/incomer and the ET 112 only gives Victron a reading of the solar generation so not interfering with the FIT PV.

I do NOT remember a power out situation in this house But I would like battery backup

PS if you are going to use AC1out then get a bigger Multiplus to give yourself head room in winter

HE HE Winter is a low energy usage time for me as I am away sailing on my yacht in the Caribbean

Have I addressed everything?

Probably not OH YES FOR SURE NOT the trunking size you are using ?

many thanks

@Daza

I will try to answer all the questions as I’m doing it on a phone lol,

Correct all batteries are run parallel so I can get max charge into them without it going to the master and being redistributed forcing the master to have more if this makes sense also it’s better for balancing each receiving the same charge.

Cable to the Lynx is 2 meters it could have done with 3meters but 2 is all Pylontech sell, at the bottom of the cabinet is an unscrewable slot, I used that and then gout cement board bonded that to the bottom and trapping the cables that are run in corrugated conduit, the cement board also doubles up as the base for my ceramic heater.

I’m using Alder Fuses on the cabinets to the batteries but they are overrated compared to the cable size ie this is to stop a lithium short rather than the cable but will blow if dead short, the multiplus only pumps out around 140amps divided by 4 is 35amps per cable this is why I like them parallel too another stack of 4 will half it so the cable will carry less amps but that’s the max stack that I believe I can get away with in the charging window

Yes Pylontech batteries wired with one master the rest as slaves, always make the newest battery the master, the conduit for the battery cable is Split Conduit 23.1mm-28.3mm per metre SCON7A

PS if yours are not in a heated area I would suggest look at some way to keep them warm and also cool.

So I am running a parallel system the whole house runs off of AC1 Out, AC in is connected so I can back feed to the grid through AC1 Out and also charge the batteries. If you are connected in this manner you don’t need a CT the multiplus 2 will do the number crunching when current is run through it, I found it operated better than the CT’s or the VM clamp when AC solar is in the mix as cloud cover can blip it into you using a lot from the grid.

This is why a changeover switch is needed, if the multi has to be worked on and running an update or just can’t wait to do something PS more the latter! I could do this at night and still have everything in the house working yes because no one can switch a changeover switch that fast you have to rest the times on the clocks for grid devices but at least you have light when working and it’s off peak so no drama

I run my system with a grid set point of -60 when I get more batteries this may increase but seen as I’ll be running two heaters I need to see how the base load, washing and drying go in the winter.

The Charger price isn’t too bad I got mine for £1100 Indra Smart Lux and I ran all the cable for the Charger already PS just because I wanted Doncaster EV cable didn’t want separate data. PS I would look to have SPD’s in every CU.

When it comes to the CU side PS have an unmonitored side ie one for really heavy loads like a heat pump if they force us to and also put the charger on the in monitored as it will be controlled but Octopus and only operate in off Peak scenarios so no need for the system to try to balance / deplete the batteries.

If just using AC In you will need to use either the Victron CT ie the blue cable one, the VM-3P75CT or the EM530. The ET 112 can work but is slower so you will consume more from the grid overtime. PS yes the multiplus will see the energy and use it but if just running on AC In you risk a lot of grid usage due to the fluctuations in power picture the grid and your system as a bubble both pushing but Victron pushing a little more cloud cover or load on the grid is now winning until the system can compensate again.

If you have the System all on AC1 Out you will still have solar in a grid down event and balancing AC solar a bit better ie a faster response from what I found. PS this way you haven’t touched any of your FIT PV wiring as you have done it from main CU/incomer and the ET 112 only gives Victron a reading of the solar generation so not interfering with the FIT PV.

PS if you are going to use AC1out then get a bigger Multiplus to give yourself head room in winter

Have I addressed everything?

@Daza

I will try to answer all the questions as I’m doing it on a phone lol,

Correct all batteries are run parallel so I can get max charge into them without it going to the master and being redistributed forcing the master to have more if this makes sense also it’s better for balancing each receiving the same charge.

OKIDOKI

Cable to the Lynx is 2 meters it could have done with 3meters but 2 is all Pylontech sell, at the bottom of the cabinet is an unscrewable slot, I used that and then gout cement board bonded that to the bottom and trapping the cables that are run in corrugated conduit, the cement board also doubles up as the base for my ceramic heater.

Should I purchase the Amphenol connectors and make my own custom cables OR sit my distributor(s) in or on the 19" Rack cabinet

I’m using Alder Fuses on the cabinets to the batteries but they are overrated compared to the cable size ie this is to stop a lithium short rather than the cable but will blow if dead short, the multiplus only pumps out around 140amps divided by 4 is 35amps per cable this is why I like them parallel too another stack of 4 will half it so the cable will carry less amps but that’s the max stack that I believe I can get away with in the charging window

you said cabinets for the Adler fuses did you mean in the distributors

I have only a 48 5000 70 MP2 so that is only capable of 70A battery charging so only 17.5 amps per battery

Yes Pylontech batteries wired with one master the rest as slaves, always make the newest battery the master, the conduit for the battery cable is Split Conduit 23.1mm-28.3mm per metre SCON7A

I have two new US5000 - c versions and two used US 5000, so I will make one of the new ones the master

PS if yours are not in a heated area I would suggest look at some way to keep them warm and also cool.

Everything is going to be in my cellar and cooling is a non issue, not sure about heating as the house is old and has a fairly even stable natural temperature model {I guess I need to think about monitoring this real time}

So I am running a parallel system the whole house runs off of AC1 Out, AC in is connected so I can back feed to the grid through AC1 Out and also charge the batteries. If you are connected in this manner you don’t need a CT the multiplus 2 will do the number crunching when current is run through it, I found it operated better than the CT’s or the VM clamp when AC solar is in the mix as cloud cover can blip it into you using a lot from the grid.

**TOTALLY LOST ME HERE can you post a circuit diagram **

Also, why do you have two AC Isolators

My planned use of the CT or 112 energy meter was to sense when the sun was shining and ‘steal’ that energy to charge the batteries

This is why a changeover switch is needed, if the multi has to be worked on and running an update or just can’t wait to do something PS more the latter! I could do this at night and still have everything in the house working yes because no one can switch a changeover switch that fast you have to rest the times on the clocks for grid devices but at least you have light when working and it’s off peak so no drama

LOST ME AGAIN, where does this changeover switch go and what circuits is it changing over?

I run my system with a grid set point of -60 when I get more batteries this may increase but seen as I’ll be running two heaters I need to see how the base load, washing and drying go in the winter.

LOST ME AGAIN

The Charger price isn’t too bad I got mine for £1100 Indra Smart Lux and I ran all the cable for the Charger already PS just because I wanted Doncaster EV cable didn’t want separate data. PS I would look to have SPD’s in every CU.

The charger is £660 ish retail they wanted £1,000 to supply and fit the charger and were proposing using armoured cable (I have a full height cellar) and £600 for the CU update

I love that cable BUT if my charger and my router cannot communicate using WiFi then I will need to run a CAT5 Cable that will go in a totally different direction to the power line to the EV Charger

When it comes to the CU side PS have an unmonitored side ie one for really heavy loads like a heat pump if they force us to and also put the charger on the in monitored as it will be controlled but Octopus and only operate in off Peak scenarios so no need for the system to try to balance / deplete the batteries.

what is PS?

If just using AC In you will need to use either the Victron CT ie the blue cable one, the VM-3P75CT or the EM530. The ET 112 can work but is slower so you will consume more from the grid overtime. PS yes the multiplus will see the energy and use it but if just running on AC In you risk a lot of grid usage due to the fluctuations in power picture the grid and your system as a bubble both pushing but Victron pushing a little more cloud cover or load on the grid is now winning until the system can compensate again.

IS that connect via AC- 3 AC IN rather than AC-1 and i would expect to see a fair bit of fluctuation in the daily charging as the solar output goes up and down and vanishes totally at times

If you have the System all on AC1 Out you will still have solar in a grid down event and balancing AC solar a bit better ie a faster response from what I found. PS this way you haven’t touched any of your FIT PV wiring as you have done it from main CU/incomer and the ET 112 only gives Victron a reading of the solar generation so not interfering with the FIT PV.

I do NOT remember a power out situation in this house But I would like battery backup

PS if you are going to use AC1out then get a bigger Multiplus to give yourself head room in winter

HE HE Winter is a low energy usage time for me as I am away sailing on my yacht in the Caribbean

Have I addressed everything?

Probably not OH YES FOR SURE NOT the trunking size you are using ?

many thanks

[FlyingScot (David)]

Thanks I am well sorted on the VE bits and bobs especially the MPPT controllers as I fit solar and VE inverter chargers to Yachts in the Caribbean BUT happy to learn about the more complex domestic installations

[Daza]

Echo’ed

[Daza]

[quote=“Daza, post:4, topic:37334”]
Should I purchase the Amphenol connectors and make my own custom cables OR sit my distributor(s) in or on the 19" Rack cabinet

YES IF YOU CAN I WASN’T AWARE OF THESE CONNECTORS BEING AVAILABLE OTHERWISE I MAY HAVE UPGRADED THAT CABLE SIZE AS WELL LOL

I’m using Alder Fuses on the cabinets to the batteries but they are overrated compared to the cable size ie this is to stop a lithium short rather than the cable but will blow if dead short, the multiplus only pumps out around 140amps divided by 4 is 35amps per cable this is why I like them parallel too another stack of 4 will half it so the cable will carry less amps but that’s the max stack that I believe I can get away with in the charging window

you said cabinets for the Adler fuses did you mean in the distributors

YES YES - THEY ARE FOR THE BATTERIES THAT GO INTO THE LYNX DISTRIBUTOR

I have only a 48 5000 70 MP2 so that is only capable of 70A battery charging so only 17.5 amps per battery

YES, NOT TOO SURE HOW GOOD THIS WORKS WHEN THEY ARE DAISY CHAINED THROUGH THE MASTER ie THE MASTER FEEDS THE OTHERS WITH THE SHORT BATTERY LINK CABLES YOU WILL GET MORE LOSSES THROUGHOUT THE STACK. BUT WIRING IT UP WITH THE ONE CABLE LIMITS THE AMPS THAT THE BATTERIES CAN PRODUCE AS THE CABLE IS ONLY 100AMP CONTINUOUS AND THE BATTERIES ARE 80AMPS CABLE CONTINUOUSLY SO 320AMPS WITH THE 4 US5000’s

***Yes Pylontech batteries wired with one master the rest as slaves, always make the newest battery the master, the conduit for the battery cable is Split Conduit 23.1mm-28.3mm per metre SCON7A

I have two new US5000 - c versions and two used US 5000, so I will make one of the new ones the master

TOO ME THE C VERSION SEEMS LIKE A HOBBLED VERSION OF THE US5000. THE C’s NOMINAL DISCHARGE IS 48 VContinuous Discharge Rate (Normal Use): 2400W. WHILE THE US5000 even run at 80AMPS CONTINUOUS IS 3840W FROM THE CONVERSION WATTS AMPS AND VICE VERSA AS LOOKS LIKE THEY CHANGED THE TEMPLATE OF HOW THEY PRODUCE THOSE FIGUES I COULD BE WRONG THOUGH!

PS if yours are not in a heated area I would suggest look at some way to keep them warm and also cool.

Everything is going to be in my cellar and cooling is a non issue, not sure about heating as the house is old and has a fairly even stable natural temperature model {I guess I need to think about monitoring this real time}

YES MONITORING IS A MUST TO KEEP THE BATTERIES AS HEALTHY AS YOU CAN IN THERE ECO SYSTEM. I USE HOME ASSAITANT FOR THIS WITH THE HACS ADDON

So I am running a parallel system the whole house runs off of AC1 Out, AC in is connected so I can back feed to the grid through AC1 Out and also charge the batteries. If you are connected in this manner you don’t need a CT the multiplus 2 will do the number crunching when current is run through it, I found it operated better than the CT’s or the VM clamp when AC solar is in the mix as cloud cover can blip it into you using a lot from the grid.

**TOTALLY LOST ME HERE can you post a circuit diagram **

Application 14kW Single Line Diagram.pdf (447.0 KB)

Also, why do you have two AC Isolators

ONE LOCKS OFF THE AC INPUT TO THE MULTI AND THE OTHER LOCKS THE OUTPUT SIDE OF THE MULTI SO I CAN WORK ON IT TAKE IT OFF THE WALL WITH THE HOUSE STILL HAVING POWER TO IT AND LEAVING THOSE CABLES DANGGLING AS THEY WILL BE DEAD WHEN ISOLATED AND ALSO GOOD FOR FAULT FINDING.

My planned use of the CT or 112 energy meter was to sense when the sun was shining and ‘steal’ that energy to charge the batteries

This is why a changeover switch is needed, if the multi has to be worked on and running an update or just can’t wait to do something PS more the latter! I could do this at night and still have everything in the house working yes because no one can switch a changeover switch that fast you have to rest the times on the clocks for grid devices but at least you have light when working and it’s off peak so no drama

LOST ME AGAIN, where does this changeover switch go and what circuits is it changing over?

I’VE PUT A FUSEBOX CHANGE OVER SWITCH IN MY CU, IF I HAVE TO CARRYOUT ANY FAULT FINDING WITH THE MULTIPLUS ITSELF THE HOUSE CAN STILL HAVE POWER ie I CAN SWITCH THE MULTIPLUS’s OUTPUT FOR THE GRID. THE CU IS WIRED SO THAT A FLICK OF THE CHANGEOVER CAN MAKE THE WHOLE HOUSE RETURN TO 100% GRID POWER. GREAT WHEN UPDATING THE MULTIPLUS AS IT CAN SWITCH OF AND ON TO DO SOME OF THE HARD FIRMWARE UPDATES OR JUST UPDATING THE ASSSITANT FOR ESS

I run my system with a grid set point of -60 when I get more batteries this may increase but seen as I’ll be running two heaters I need to see how the base load, washing and drying go in the winter.

LOST ME AGAIN

SO I PUSH 60 WATTS TO THE GRID CONSTANTLY MEANING I HAVE A LOT LESS CHANCE OF DRAWING ANY POWER FROM THEM WHICH WORKS PURFECTLY

The Charger price isn’t too bad I got mine for £1100 Indra Smart Lux and I ran all the cable for the Charger already PS just because I wanted Doncaster EV cable didn’t want separate data. PS I would look to have SPD’s in every CU.

The charger is £660 ish retail they wanted £1,000 to supply and fit the charger and were proposing using armoured cable (I have a full height cellar) and £600 for the CU update

WOW ARMOURED CABLE ISNT CHEAP, BUT I SUPPLIED THE DONCASTER EV ULTRA, RAN THE CABLE CONNECTED THE ETHERNET MYSIDE AND LEFT THE LIVE, EARTH AND NETRAUL IN THE CU AND STILL COST THAT JUST FOR HIM TO PUT THE THING ON THE WALL LOL

I love that cable BUT if my charger and my router cannot communicate using WiFi then I will need to run a CAT5 Cable that will go in a totally different direction to the power line to the EV Charger

ALWAYS GO WIRED ETHERNET IS TOO SUSEPTABLE TO INTERFEARANCE AND POTENTALLY ANOTHER THING TO FAULT FIND. GO HARD WIRED SAVE YOURSELF ISSUES IN THE LONG RUN

When it comes to the CU side PS have an unmonitored side ie one for really heavy loads like a heat pump if they force us to and also put the charger on the in monitored as it will be controlled but Octopus and only operate in off Peak scenarios so no need for the system to try to balance / deplete the batteries.

what is PS?

PLEASE STANDBY

If just using AC In you will need to use either the Victron CT ie the blue cable one, the VM-3P75CT or the EM530. The ET 112 can work but is slower so you will consume more from the grid overtime. PS yes the multiplus will see the energy and use it but if just running on AC In you risk a lot of grid usage due to the fluctuations in power picture the grid and your system as a bubble both pushing but Victron pushing a little more cloud cover or load on the grid is now winning until the system can compensate again.

IS that connect via AC- 3 AC IN rather than AC-1 and i would expect to see a fair bit of fluctuation in the daily charging as the solar output goes up and down and vanishes totally at times

REWORD THE ANSWER IF YOU ARE USING THE AC IN AS BI DIRECTIONAL ie TO COVER LOADS ON THAT SIDE YOU NEED A CT LIKE THE ONES ABOVE. YES IT DOES FLUCTUATE A LOT WHICH IS WHAT KINDA HAPPENED TO MY FIRST MAULTIPLUS 2 5000 AND WHEN I WAS USING IT TO COVER THE AC IN AND THE AC1 OUT LOADS. AS THE UNIT WASN’T BIG ENOUGH TO RUN ALL MY HEAVY LOADS LIKE WASHING MACHINE, DRYER AND KETTLE WHAT CAN I SAY I LIKE TEA AND MY BASE LOAD OF THE HOUSE IS HIGH THAN THE AVERAGE HOUSE. HENCE THE MULTIPLUS 2 1000 WHCIH HAS BEEN A CHAMP I WOULD SAY GET THE 1000 IF YOU HAVE NOT BOUGHT ONE ALREADY AS YOU ARE STARTING WITH ENOUGH BATTERIES TO TAKE THE CHARGE RATE. AND IN THE FUTURE IF THEY SHORTEN THE CHARGING SLOTS YOU WON’T RUN OVER SO MUCH DEPENDS ON WHAT ITS CHANGED TO OBVIOUSLY

If you have the System all on AC1 Out you will still have solar in a grid down event and balancing AC solar a bit better ie a faster response from what I found. PS this way you haven’t touched any of your FIT PV wiring as you have done it from main CU/incomer and the ET 112 only gives Victron a reading of the solar generation so not interfering with the FIT PV.

I do NOT remember a power out situation in this house But I would like battery backup

LOL NOR DID I UNTIL 3000 HOMES WENT DARK I WAS STILL WATCHING TV AND DRINKING TEA AND GAS BOILER STILL SUPPLYING HEAT

PS if you are going to use AC1out then get a bigger Multiplus to give yourself head room in winter

HE HE Winter is a low energy usage time for me as I am away sailing on my yacht in the Caribbean

NIIIIIICE!

Have I addressed everything?

Probably not OH YES FOR SURE NOT the trunking size you are using ?

THE 4 INCH I BELIVE, AS THIS WAS SUPPLIED BY THE SPARKS THAT INSTALLED THE DUAL CU IN THE GARAGE

many thanks

[FlyingScot (David)]

FARNEL have the Amphenol RADSOK SLPPA25BSR at around £13.84 each price reduced dependent on the quantity you purchase

Why would I want more amps coming out of the batteries IF I connect them individually to the Lynx Distributor I am maximising my amps out, no?

RE charging according to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7RXtUzvPJ-Q
the Pylontech battery BMS’s are extremely clever and can handle lots of situations that other batteries and BMS’s are incapable of doing.

So I should try to keep the batteries in a controlled environment (this is a new one for me and none of the installations I have looked at were doing anything like this)

STILL CONFUSED
why do you have two AC Isolators

ONE LOCKS OFF THE AC INPUT TO THE MULTI AND THE OTHER LOCKS THE OUTPUT SIDE OF THE MULTI SO I CAN WORK ON IT TAKE IT OFF THE WALL WITH THE HOUSE STILL HAVING POWER TO IT AND LEAVING THOSE CABLES DANGLING AS THEY WILL BE DEAD WHEN ISOLATED AND ALSO GOOD FOR FAULT FINDING.

SO the input AC In comes from the gird after the meter and before the CU and does not connect to the CU it only feeds the MP2 and the MP2 output AC1 goes to the CU?

Rather than two AC isolation switches at the MP2 could I not use one 4 pole switch?

SO have I got the AC In and out connections correct, as in where on the inverter are the input and the output feeds connected??

I’VE PUT A FUSEBOX CHANGE OVER SWITCH IN MY CU, IF I HAVE TO CARRY OUT ANY FAULT FINDING WITH THE MULTIPLUS ITSELF THE HOUSE CAN STILL HAVE POWER ie I CAN SWITCH THE MULTIPLUS’s OUTPUT FOR THE GRID.*

What is this change over switch that you have in your CU (Make model picture)? and if I have this correct (as above) it cuts the output line from the MP2 to the CU and feeds the CU from the meter output that previously went to the MP2 AC In connection block ??

AND YES I would use Doncaster UV cable the twin non data version as the inboard house ends are going to be in two totally different places, so I need to run the power cable to my CU and a CAT 5 Cable to my router.

I have purchased a MP2 48 5000 70 for a good price, used, from someone who was upgrading to two 1000 MP2’s Re Changing to a 1000 well the best price I can see online is just over £1,500 so IF I sold my 48 5000 70 for £500 that means I will need to invest another £1,000 in the battery storage side of the system OUCH

It might be more sensible to get another 48 5000 70 and parallel them up IF I need more power than the one 5000 can supply or to be able to fully charge my batteries quickly enough when the energy rates are cheapest

and yes I do want the UPS function

[Daza]

If not using a Lynx distro you won’t get the max from the batteries is what I mean as power can be daisy chained which limits them.

If the batteries are in a heated area that should be fine mine are in a single wall garage so mine are heated with ceramic heaters in the rack and cooling fans when they go to 27c I may look at automating air con at some point.

So I can fault find separate Input and output ie I want to shut the grid to the multi with 4 pole I can’t and as per G99 needs to be lockable isolation switches and 25mm2 gets a little messy

No my in put comes from an MCB from the main CU, that double CU is broken up into 4 parts Part 1 main In goes to un monitored circuits ie charger and change over circuit, Part2 the input to the multi is feed from a flexi link cable should I ever so not connected to the bus which gives me the option of a CT if I ever needed one and at the position where it’s blind to the EV Charger at the other end meaning that it won’t discharge when the charger starts charging the car. Part 3 change over switch the main wires in with a flexi and this part has it’s own busbar that it operates and the Multiplus output feeds into this as well allowing you to switch the whole house from grid to Multiplus and vice versa. If you understood what I said well done as I spent a while in my head designing it lol

You have the 4 batteries already to power a 1000 unit, nice price.

FuseBox SCO125SWB 125A Changeover Switch and

[FlyingScot (David)]

SADLY I don’t understand the last section

No my input comes from an MCB from the main CU
What value and in which AC connection block on the MP2 AC-OUT-1 AC-OUT-2 or AC-IN is used to feed the MP2

So this change over switch has a separate {supplied} bus bar. Do you use this? Is this where you connect AC-OUT-1 ?? If so, then how do you connect the bus bar and the switch - what goes where? Mains on goes where - Mains off goes where - Gen on goes where - Gen off goes where ???

My dual CU will be populated as such

Bottom Slot - House Consumer Unit

Cooker 40A
Downstairs Sockets 32A
Upstairs Sockets 32A
Kitchen Sockets 32A
Cellar Sockets 32A
Lights Downstairs 6A
Lights Upstairs 6A
Cellar Lights 6A
Waterproof Sockets 16A

TOP Slot - New Circuits

FIT Solar 20A
MP2 Inverter 50A (For Future Expansion)
EV Charger 32A (For Future Expansion)
Garage 40A (For Future Expansion)
Changeover switch 125A (For GRID/MP2)
VE 112 Energy Meter (to measure solar output) (maybe replaced by a CT on the solar output line)

GOT IT one four pole switch is not a good idea and G99/98

What isolator switches did you use ?

Why 25mm2 cable? I would have thought 16mm2 was OK for 100A
I was planning on using good quality stranded 10mm2 cable

Yes, I am going to use two lynx distributors with a possible seven battery inputs (four in use immediately) and one output to the MP2 Inverter/Charger so will have three connection locations spare.

[Daza]

Hi my dual board is really only my mains in garage circuits as didn’t want another board and change over stuff the house has it’s own 20 way board.

This is just for illustration purposes please get a trained electrician to complete such work. Some of the stuff has changed like the main head 100amp fuse is protected by time delay RCD 100amp because the TT earth.

The bus bar is only used to switch the gen and mains to the output. I have used link connectors in the CU yep didn’t know you could get them either until the manufacturer of the CU had them listed 120amp link connectors

The AC in to the inverter is 50amps output is 63amps yes I have breakers on both in and out.

16mm2 has been the case before but you will not get a DNO upgrading you to 100amp main head without changing the tails to 25mm2 I’ve just adopted the same playbook which I try to do for every cable plus if the system changes/upgrades I don’t really want to strip it all out and do it again, once and done.