Hello Victron freaks, in attachment the drawing I made to prepare an overview to receive tips and remarks before I order the VICTRON parts.
Feel free to comment. Thanks in advance!
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CONCORDE CARVER 050225.pdf (1.0 MB)
I don’t believe system design discussions are permitted in this forum. Are you using a Blue Sea system to disconnect 120V AC? With the Lynx, you need to separate charging and discharging. You have two options: either use the shunt only for DC loads and let the Multi manage the state of charge (SOC), or use the shunt for both DC loads and charging.
Additionally, you have both a thermal breaker and a fuse. It’s best to remove the thermal breaker, as they don’t perform well under constant current and may weld shut when tripped
Possibly add a other shunt in for DC loads?
The in line fuses for the PV may be a little small and have the possibility of nuisance blowing. Maybe switch to 15A?
I am not a fan of those resetting fuse/breaker things on the orions. Not had great experiences with them, but thats up to you in the end.
Looks like it will be an awesome build.
LX,
Thank you very much for your reaction.
“Possibly add a other shunt in for DC loads?”
Why?, Did I design something wrong here or forgot something?
Doesn’t’ the Cerbo GX report everything else?
“The in line fuses for the PV may be a little small and have the possibility of nuisance blowing. Maybe switch to 15A?”
Ok will change that.
“I am not a fan of those resetting fuse/breaker things on the orions. Not had great experiences with them, but thats up to you in the end.”
What would you design here to be able to disconnect the starter battery (in case of reparation or changes)?
“Looks like it will be an awesome build.”
Hope so, your input is already helping.
Regards
Guy
Owen, Thank you very much for the reply.
“I don’t believe system design discussions are permitted in this forum.”
Sorry, where should I put it then?
“Are you using a Blue Sea system to disconnect 120V AC?”
You mean the Blue sea switch that I drew before the 230V breaker box, Yes I think that is a mistake, the switch is for DC, it is not necessary I think as I can shut of the power in the distribution board itself (via the “RESIDIAL CURRENT OPERATED CIRCUIT-BREAKER AC IN”)
“With the Lynx, you need to separate charging and discharging. You have two options: either use the shunt only for DC loads and let the Multi manage the state of charge (SOC), or use the shunt for both DC loads and charging.”
Can you elaborate a bit on this. As you probably already guessed I am a NOOB, (but I have the help of my neigbor who is an electrician, but has none or little knowledge of RV’s)
“Additionally, you have both a thermal breaker and a fuse. It’s best to remove the thermal breaker, as they don’t perform well under constant current and may weld shut when tripped”
You mean between the leisure batteries and the Lynx Distributors? How can I disconnect the batteries then if necessary?
Thanks for your efforts!
Owen, Thank you very much for the reply.
“I don’t believe system design discussions are permitted in this forum.”
Sorry, where should I put it then?
“Are you using a Blue Sea system to disconnect 120V AC?”
You mean the Blue sea switch that I drew before the 230V breaker box, Yes I think that is a mistake, the switch is for DC, it is not necessary I think as I can shut of the power in the distribution board itself (via the “RESIDIAL CURRENT OPERATED CIRCUIT-BREAKER AC IN”)
“With the Lynx, you need to separate charging and discharging. You have two options: either use the shunt only for DC loads and let the Multi manage the state of charge (SOC), or use the shunt for both DC loads and charging.”
Can you elaborate a bit on this. As you probably already guessed I am a NOOB, (but I have the help of my neighbor who is an electrician, but has none or little knowledge of RV’s)
“Additionally, you have both a thermal breaker and a fuse. It’s best to remove the thermal breaker, as they don’t perform well under constant current and may weld shut when tripped”
You mean between the leisure batteries and the Lynx Distributors? How can I disconnect the batteries then if necessary?
Thanks for your efforts!
BTW love your surname, I followed Pete a lot on YT, my favorite US politician, should have ran for president!
Regards
Guy
Not sure if nobody complains and is not deleted then all good. You can get design ideas from the supplier as well they can check it.
I got this wrong I thought you had a lynx shunt but it looks ok ignore.
No up to the Orions, take them out and if you need to isolate pull the fuse. Or if you want to disconnect get a dc breaker non polarised like a noark for example 63A. But I think they will only 16mm cable you might need to swap the 25mm for 16 it will be plenty for 50A and you will unlikely see that as they get hot and derate only supply about 35-40A. Dont worry about voltage drop you will get the voltage reading from the shunt.
Others have made some good comments.
The official policy is this is not a design service, i.e. if people are asking blank sheet of paper design questions. However, a critique of well thought out designs is not discouraged.
I agree that the resettable breakers are not ideal, they are a frequent cause of poor connection, high resistance and voltage drop. Use a fuse and a manual isolator.
One additional thing that stands out is the circuit breaker enclosure with shore power and PV feed in. I know in boats that the wiring regs often require ac and dc to be kept separate. Not sure about vehicles.
diysolarforum is another good forum for answers
LX,
Sorry for the late reply,
Thak you for the help, after your and other remarks I reworked my drawing, see link wetransfer
Regards,
Guy
Owen,
Sorry for the late reply,
Thak you for the help, after your and other remarks I reworked my drawing, see link wetransfer
Regards,
Guy
PW,
Sorry for the late reply,
Thak you for the help, after your and other remarks I reworked my drawing, see link wetransfer
Regards,
Guy