Please review my 24V electrical diagram in my travel trailer

[bud]

Hi- I’m looking for input for on my inverter/24V electrical system upgrade of my 2024 Grand Design Imagine 2600RB travel trailer.

I have done lots of research and will be installing a 24V 230AH Epoch battery bank and a Victron Multiplus-II 24V 3KW 50-7- 2x120 Inverter into the trailer. I’m taking a phased approach and want to understand each part of the system and install it in phases.

I want to integrate this into the existing electrical system. The 12V DC system is wired for 30A. I plan to do a load test on the 12V system to validate the amperage within a week or so.

My trailer already has solar and a Furrion 40A MPPT. It also has an Inverter AC prep line on a 30A breaker which I will use for the phase 1 install. I will also max out the MPPT with solar panels up to 960W.

Later, I will add another Epoch 24V 230AH battery and more solar panels with another MPPT controller. Someday I may run a full wire from Shore power to Inverter and back to breaker panel.

The first diagram shows my current installation. The second diagram shows the Inverter, Lynx Distributor & Shunt, Cerbo GX, and Orion 24/12 30A DC-DC converter, etc, all connected to the existing 12V DC, Jack, and breakaway switch. It also lists the wire sizes.

I plan to disconnect alternator charging. I will update my tow vehicle in a couple years and will revisit this then.

WRT the Jack and emergency break away switch these are currently always connected to the 12V battery. I do not want to deal with a 2nd dedicated 12V for this purpose for simplification. Thus, I have used a 100A mini busbar to power them from a second positive 8WG wire from the Orion. The battery disconnect does disconnect power to them, not sure if this is up to code.

WRT Fuses: I need to size the fuses in the Lynx Distributor and Shunt and the fuse on the pos battery wire.

Finally, wasn’t quite sure on the grounding of the Furrion. It currently is grounded in the pass through, then the neg battery output cable is grounded under the trailer which is connected to the existing neg 12V battery. The original connections can be seen in the first diagram. The new connections in the second diagram.

Lots of info here… I appreciate ALL comments, especially those related to Wiring size, fuse sizes, ground connections, etc.

Thanks!!!
Bill

[Jeroen2 (Jeroen Kuijf)]

Good night,

Can you explain what is the thing connected to the fuse on the left side in both systems, it looks like an outboard e-mot?

Regards, Jeroen.

[bud]

That is my Trailer Jack!!!

[Jeroen2 (Jeroen Kuijf)]

Good evening,

That’s a good one, I thought your trailer was amphibious,…

Just to know the shirt I wear now, coincidence…

Regards, Jeroen.

[Jeroen2 (Jeroen Kuijf)]

Good evening,

We checked your old and new system.
It looks quite ok, but one thing you have to understand is that DC-DC converters do not like starts of e-mots.
The start of your jack will be 3 times higher for a second or 2…
I can only recommend of course to use a converter that can handle at least 3 times more then what’s written on the motor.
Be very clear in wiring the 12 and 24V +/- wires.
Easy to confuse if not marked with a beer or so!

Regards, Jeroen.

[owenb79 (Owen Buttigieg)]

The lynx shunt is not a great product for the price. You dont need it the battery has Victron comms and it also has an internal fuse. You might also be able to save a few $ and look at other busbar soloutions.

[bud]

Ok, I will check the amp draw on the Jack, wont be able to get to it for a couple of days. If that’s the case I suppose I could just add a dedicated 12V. OR, if the 70A Orion is 3x it’s amp draw perhaps I could use that? Thanks for the heads up!

[bud]

WRT the Lynx Shunt, etc. I will look into that. It did seem very spend. Thx.

[owenb79 (Owen Buttigieg)]

You can connect that battery directly to the cerbo. You won’t need the shunt. There is a t-class fuse on the battery. You will need to find out what size it is and get a spare and see if its the correct size for you your cable. You can delete the fuse coming out of the battery the lynx shunt also has a fuse so you have 3 fuses in a row.

Here is a video about the communication that I found. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpAjxcVm2nQ

[bud]

I do have the battery to Cerbo connection in the diagram. I removed the Lynx shunt due to its redundancy as suggested, great call out. I also reached out to Epoch WRT swapping the internal battery fuse and their recommendation on an additional in line fuse. I agree two fuses seems overkill, simplicity is best! I’m attaching my new diagram, thanks!

[bud]

BTW- The Lippert Power Jack has a 30A inline fuse. I checked the manual and it states that is the max draw. I will still test it once my new clamp multimeter arrives later this week.

I also changed to a 70A Orion 24/12 DC-DC Converter to allow for both 30A connections running simultaneously (subject to my load test.)